opus

Well, a simple fix I have done....did it just today too. 2 qts ATF and 2 qts diesel. Run it for 10 mins til its good and warm. Dump it and put new oil and filter in.

Well that will work. I cant seem to find new pairs anywhere.

If I dont sell this I will do rear KYB GR2 shocks. Want to do new springs too, options? I take it I cant find complete shock/springs anywhere.

Best way to do it without tweaking the bumper??

Plugs were AC Delco. One was a little rich. I put NGK in about 200 miles ago, haven't checked those yet. No audible differences amongst them.

Its not coolant. The one bolt on each end seems to be a manifold bolt. I would have thought it would just have bolted TO the manifold, instead of being a bolt that holds the manifold to the head. I surely am not going to pull a manifold bolt. I've done enough of those to know how it generally ends up. If I end up having to pull injectors I'll probably cut the fuel rail tubes and replace it with rubber fuel line. I'll just run more Seafoam through it for now.

I dont want to do any engine mods really. Its far from simple if it wont run with all the junk attached to it. Anyways....

Can anything be done to clean up, remove things from an EA82 turbo engine compartment. My Brat and other GL engines are naked now and I'd like the same for the GL-10 turbo. What can be removed without negative effects?

Good golly, they dont want you to take those injectors out, do they! I dont see anyway to take them out without pulling a manifold bolt that holds the pipe bracket on. I know better than to fiddle with those manifold bolts. Anyone make any modifications doing this?

I've done the seafoam thing.... Nothing. I'll pull them and there is an injector guy that rebuilds them and cleans them for $16ea.

OK. Simple enough to pull injectors?

I think I have a leaky injector. Start up is a puff of white gas odored smoke. Also on a hot start it barely idles for a little bit, 450-550rpm. Best bet is to get them cleaned somewhere or would it be as price effective to replace them?

Has anyone got a spare? DGEV 34/36

Longer bolts or copper wire. Thats saved me a few times. Weed whacker string works too.

There will be no demand for US built products until the US learns how to price competitively. We've priced ourselves right out of the market, so China took over. There is only a very limited percent I imagine that would be willing to you $150 for a 3/8" drive. I'm not a mechanic by trade but I use my tools a lot. Some 40 years ago my Dad bought me my first set of ratchets....so China made crap. I've had issues with Snap On tools yet the China ones are still fine....go figure. There is no rhyme or reason to it all.

Oh forget it. There needs to be a delete post button for us stupid folk [sigh].

Ahhh...gotcha. No wrecking yards for a couple hundred miles.

ECU. I'll order that Bosch unit. What are you meaning "get one from an injector"?

Thats what I've always thought but reading here some seem to think differently. I'm going with back side of manifold.

Boy, there sure seems to be some confusion as to where the CTS is located. Some say manifold, some say radiator. I'm talking the one that effects cold starts, high idling, etc. Where is it located? The Bosch 0280130026 is the correct replacement I have read.

But you sure feel better when you loose a China tool rather than an SK or Snap On.

I'm with him ^^^, stick with the Hitachi.

Well that was about a 3 on the fun-o-meter. Took all the bolts off and whacked it in half and got them out.

I've done a bunch just not without removing pulley.....and I didnt want to remove the pulley just for this. Too hot to have ambition.

I suppose I can whack these things and break them. Any easy suggestions? Radiators not coming out, I just want them gone incase I have an issue on the road.