colossal_monstrosity

What car does the original LSD come from?

Great. What is an LSD carrier and where do I get it?

Excellent - that chart is great! Except it still doesn't have the loyale sway bar sizes...or if it even has one.

3 Steps: 1. Get screwdriver 2. Use screwdriver to pop the door trim that says "loyale" off the rear doors. 3. Put on ones from a different subaru, which say "Subaru." All done! Now nobody will know! As a mean trick to people who have GL's or whatever and make fun of you, go ahead and switch their's TO loyale when they aren't looking. Paybacks a bi*ch.

92 Loyale. Swapped to d/r five speed from pushbutton five speed. What are my swap in rear differential options?

So what are the stock sway bar sizes on the Ea-82 cars? Specically my '92 Loyale...What is the GL, GL-10, RX, etc...What is the size of anything that will interchange?

Okay somebody tell me this is the right strut combination (KYB part #'s): Front Left: 234047 Front Right: 234046 Rears: 341065 Front Mount: SM5364 Rear Mount: SM5362 I don't know what all is compatible, but it looks to me like their catalog just sucks. That would rule if those are the right part numbers. I'm open to improvement for anyone who wants to suggest a higher/stiffer shock in the $60-80/each range.

Ok, I stand somewhat corrected. What I can't locate in KYB's part catalog is a listing for 4wd wagon front struts in my year range. Exactly what all front struts are interchangeable with what? http://www.kyb.com/catalog/index.php?Action=Submit&MakeID=Subaru&ModelID=532&x=16&y=21

Hmm, interesting. I will DEFINATELY go with the accord springs then. Um, but then what do I use for a rear shock? Will the stock style shock still work? Or do I need to choose a different one for that height? Also, as for the shock stiffness - yeah...I'd love a stiffer one, but there isn't a whole lot of choice from KYB. How would I go about locating a stiffer one? Usually you just choose a different series shock, i.e. Rancho rs5000 vs rs9000, but only the GR-2's are available from KYB. I could buy elsewhere...but where would I get stiffer? To the guy who said they still make the fronts....See if YOU can get a part ## off their website...I can't find a front strut listed for any ea82 car on their site, only the back. Perhaps I should call them and have my way with them. Thanks for the help so far. You guys are super. Get ready for my sway bar questions once I figure out the springs / shocoks ;-)

So what if I wanted JUST a light bar? Is there a place I can buy that by itself and just bolt it on (probably have to make a few holes...), or do I have to make one? Since I really only want lights so far...and I don't see the need to spend $200 on a yakima rack + light accessories.

Mcbrat, I read where to told me to go, but what I'm seeing on the web site isn't quite matching up with your instructions. I'm definately not a computer *********************...so....could you explain where that is any differently? I tried a search for the offsets, but there wasn't much. If you could just TELL me the stock offset, I imagine I could figure out everything from there, just with a simple diagram. Thanks.

I know nothing about wheel tech. If I'm converting from the stock 13x5 inches POS's on a 92 loyal to, say, 15x7 toyota 6 lug wheels, what offset wheel would I order to keep the inside of the wheel the same distance from the fender? I don't care if it pokes out..the inside needs to be in the same spot as stock though. I can't seem to get a clear answer from this by reading other peoples posts...only part of the conversion I don't get.

I guess somebody had to make this thread.

'92 Loyale Wagon I'm looking to buy new shocks/struts from KYB (they don't have front struts for any ea82 cars on their website anymore! Any recommendations as to another manufacturer?). In addition to 4 new shock absorbers, I also want new springs. I want the highest rate, and highest ride height springs I can swap on, for the stiffest ride. I have somewhat gathered that I should put GL-10 springs in the back, and RX springs in the front, and top it off with a set of XT6 sway bars. I assume that is all bolt in equipement, correct me if I'm wrong. My other question is the shock absorbers. Does the suspension combination I mentioned require different shocks, or will I be able to use the stock style loyale shocks (replaced with aftermarket ones of course) with those suspension components? Or will I need to use RX style struts in the front, GL-10 style in the back, or some other weird combination? If Loyale style struts WILL work with that combination, would I possibly get better valving if I bought O.E. style struts for a different subaru? (i.e. replacement gl-10 shocks may be stiffer than replacement loyale shocks?)

I am interested in seeing how/what people mount their roof lights on (closeups, where it attaches tot the roof), specifcally on the ea82 cars. I need inspiration, but I also don't want to tear up my roof, and I can't think of how it's done. So show me.

Note to gas users: Depending on the gas station, there are either 1 or two types of unleaded. Recently the local Chevron ran out of gas for a few hours. But they didn't just run out of 87. They also ran out of 89 at the same time. Coincidence? Nope, I asked - their 89 octance fuel just has an additive + 87 octace. The texaco (before it got attacked by shell) ran out of all 3 grades at once, which makes me guess that they get all one kind and put in different additives....Just find that 76 that sells 100 octance for $5.50/gallon and filler up, no more problem

Located for sale, and am looking for someone elses opinion as to whether or not it's worth as much as he's asking. 1985 Subaru Brat 235,000 original miles, original engine/trans/head gaskets New: brakes, tires, cv's, semi-new clutch Original jump seats No rust Almost always garaged One of the straightest used cars I've ever seen Needs: Tune up (do it myself) Windshield within 6 months, crack in left side, expanding, may leak. Still runs absolutely fantansitc, some old guy, he's had it since it was 1 year old. He's asking $3200. I was planning on using this car for daily driving for about a year or two, probably adding 50k miles to it. Would it be worth that much, considering it's age and mileage, despite the fact that they last forever? Located in Yelm, WA 98597

The variation in replies to this topic is outstanding and odd at the same time. CV's are quite simple to replace, not very expensive, and usually very easy to tell if they need to be done. I'm not sure about the rear CV's in AWD cars, but in any car, if the front ones go, you will damned well feel it in the steering at highway speed. The speed it happens generally seems to indicate how bad they are. The steering wheel will just in general vibrate all over the place and not be very smooth...it will jump, anywhere from 5-6 mm, back and forth, left and right, best way I can put it. As for them going bad, well, the boots generally blow up and fling their grease all over in the engine compartment. A guy at the parts store once told me that if breaking the boot isn't what kills them, if the u-joints in the axles actually go bad, that in itself is suppossed to make the boots crack, so you know they're bad. Let's review: Your CV's are bad if you can tell there is something wrong while you're driving, and it's not your alignment or your tires. OR Your CV's are bad because the boots have cracked/broken/spontanesouly combusted and let the grease fly everywhere OR they fall out So, if they look ok, and you can't tell from your driving, most likely they're fine. With how much I'm sure you paid the dealer for the tranny, and it sounds like you're installing it yourself, why not just spend another $150 for new CV's? Isn't your objective in all this to make the car work better? If you wanted to save money, you shouldn't maintain your car. Hell, you shouldn't drive.

87 Gl Wagon, non-turbo. Regular ea-82 with hitachi carb, recently swapped the carb, it finally works correctly for the most part. After the swap, I set the idle dead on 900 rpm, only it walked up and down about 200 rpm while idling, but was around 900 in general. The next day after it was all warmed up and what not, the idle idled steady and 1400 rpm or so, not much wandering around. So I set it back down to 900, and this time it was rock solid at 900. Well, the next day, I let it warm up and disengaged the choke, only now it didn't idle at all. Pfff. I turned the idle back up and set it at 900, and the story starts all over from here. I continue to turn it between these points every few days. I don't figure it's the air temp. or anything, since it's pretty much been consistent through the problems. I didn't do anything else other than adjust the idle. Ignition problem?

Eh, don't even bother replying to my last thread, I went out and did just what you said, I just used a splicer and hooked it onto that full vacuum line that goes to my anti afterburn valve thing (The book kind of said that's what it is). I kind of thought that was the problem before, but it appears the hose that runs across the top of the firewall was partially missing, and the canister thing it feeds looked like it hooked to nothing. LOL. Anyway, that's all taken care of, most excellent. Back to donuts on mountain tops with 2 feet of snow baby! (while being able to see).

Ok, I know exactly what hose you're talking about, I couldn't figure out what it went to (looked like nothing). Um, as for where it plugs onto the engine, there is so much vacuum crap there I cannot assemble it correctly without pics or another vehicle. It was a nightmare getting carb to work right on this car. So I guess my next question is, can I plug that hose into full vacuum or does it need to be down from a check valve or something?

That's a negative on either one being a turbo. Still trying to get a title for one, which has kind of become a parts car with how much I bang up the suspension on the other one, and in general just beat the crap out of it. I've ripped the exhaust off 3 times and I'm on my 5th set of front tires in 5k miles. I also managed to need to replace the front drivers side suspension everything...control arm, that long brace that stops it from rocking back and forth (I actually bent that up pretty good on a landing one time, perhaps I'll make a web site here pretty quick and get some pics up). Um, as for the ea82 power, I'm looking at making this carb mod to the secondaries to make them open up sooner, I've already got a cherry bomb and punched out cat, the intake warmer thing hooked to the exhaust is all disconnected and what not. Not too much else I can do right yet, planning to get an accel coil/cap/rotor and some new plug wires soon. Some guy on ebay screwed me for the last set. I'll probably convert to a weber 32/36 (brand new). If there's anything else simple I can do, that'd be nice, otherwise beyond that I was just going to have the heads milled, port them, and have the cams reground, along with performing the lifter fix located here: http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/ea82_hydraulic_lifter_fix.htm

1987 GL Wagon 5 spd dual range, running what appears to be a stock ea82. I was wondering what other motors that tranmission is going to bolt to without mounting issues (durability is negligible). My thoughts were looking towards a newer 2.2 or 2.5. I find plenty of info about bellhousing bolt patterns and what not, but I've had more input gear problems than anything else swapping trannies around. Perhaps I should just do what "everyone" does and drop in a SBC and Turbo 350 with transfer case? LOL (not in a subaru, perhaps in a RX-7 though). _____________ Colossal_Monstrosity drives: 1995 Mercury Tracer/Escort, 1.8L Mazda Turbo Swap 1988 IROC-Z 350 TPI (2) 1987 Subaru GL Wagon 1980 Honda CB650C inline 4 motorcycle 1978 Trans Am 6.6L big block

This post is in reference to a 1987 GL wagon, 1.8L, no air conditioning. The motor or whatever it is that moves the vents in the heater box between floor/vent/defrost/etc. no longer works, either due to a bad connection or wore out engine, or if it's vacuum fed (didn't look like it), then a bad vacuum line. I was just wondering if this had happened to anyone else or if it's a common problem, didn't see anything in the forums, and wanted to look for easy solution before tearing stuff apart. Thanks!