2000 Legacy

Yeah I too am sorry that I gave up, I thought for sure we could fix it. It's just that it was occupying a lot of my time and thought. Like I said, I couldn't justify registering and insuring another vehicle. We picked up a 1999 Honda Civic EX with 127,000 miles on it. It was a one owner car, very clean with car fax and maitenance history. It's real clean and will be a good car for our oldest son who will take it to college next week. If someone does have the same problem that we had with our 2000 Legacy I'd really love to hear what the cuase is. Hopefully nobody has to go through what we went through. Thanks again everyone for the help. 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, I just spent the last 20 minutes looking for this thread when I should have looked to a more recent date. Anyway the reason why I was looking for it was to first, sincerely thank everyone who helped me, responded to my posts, read my post and for the people that make this forum possible. Your time and expertise is very much appreciated. I have since been on a few other forums and none are half as good as this one. The other reason was that I wanted to let everyone know that I have given up and traded the car in. As much as I wanted to keep it and solve the problem I could not justify to my wife and son, whose car it was in registering and putting another car in the driveway. I was hoping to get another Subaru but it didn't work out that way. Maybe some other time. Again, thank you all. 2000 Legacy

I found the procedure for the valve adjustments in the FSM. Thanks, I'll look into it. 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, I’m sorry that it has been a while; we didn’t have our adult auto class last week due to the holiday. Anyways, I was able to borrow the same fuel pressure gauge to recheck the pressure since we replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR). Here are the results: The results were similar to what we posted in Post 169, Page 17 of this thread; however it was noted this time that the gauge was off, it read 5 PSI without being hooked up. So we assumed that it was off when we did it the last time as well. We checked the fuel pressure readings per the instructions per Post 164, Page 17. I started the car, the readings were: - Vacuum = 15 PSI bouncing between 14 – 18 PSI. - Fuel Pressure = 41 – 42 PSI I then let the car warm up for 5 minutes, the readings were the same. I don’t remember if the vacuum bounced that much the last time we checked it. Then we removed the vacuum hose at the FPR and plugged it with my finger, leaving the FPR open where the hose plugged into. The readings were the same for the vacuum and the fuel pressure went to 49 PSI. We then shut the car off and monitored the fuel pressure for about 10 minutes. It seems to start at 45 PSI and then rise to 46 PSI. Please keep in mind the fuel pressure readings above are 5 PSI too high. I started going through all my receipts related to this problem and found that this problem seem to start at about 180,000 miles, about the time that I replaced the battery. Could this have affected the ECU? Also, I checked the gas mileage the other night, it was 18.78 mpg. I’ll have to check it again because that doesn’t seem to be that great considering we changed the FPR, O2 Sensor and fuel filter. I still haven’t been able to locate an oscilloscope but will continue to look. I mentioned adjusting/checking the valves, someone had asked me what type I had, I wasn’t sure. They also weren’t aware of what could really be done with them. I get the impression that this would be too big of a job for me and that it may not be worth it. Oh well, please let me know your thoughts/ideas. Thank you everyone for your help and expertise. 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, Thanks for all your effort and time on this problem. I’m sorry that I haven’t responded sooner, I’ve been busy like everyone else and I was and am a little overwhelmed by some of the responses. You guys are way over my head; I wish I had some of your analytical thought. Anyways, thank you. The dealer supposedly replaced the IACV as well as the fuel injectors; they didn’t work so I had them put my old ones back. I’ll have to relook at the procedure for a P0506 to see what that entails. As for checking the “duty cycle” the ECU is applying to the IACV, I’ll have to look around to see if someone has an oscilloscope, not that I’d know what to do with it, but I’ll cross that bridge once I get ahold of a scope. There are a few things I need to look up that I didn’t understand; like cam lobe, algorithm and kludge. I’ll also look at rechecking the “fuel pressure” with the new FPR as well as the vacuum. Is there any other way of checking the return line other than what I did (blowing air at the FPR and listening at the fill pipe for the gas tank)? Also I haven’t checked the gas mileage with the new FPR and O2 Sensor. I would think that would tell something with regard to fuel. Another thing mentioned in Post # 198 was “valve adjustments”, I’m not aware that the car has had any and like I mentioned in the beginning is that we bought this car brand new in 2000. I have to admit I’m not familiar with this and do not know what is involved with valve adjustments. Again everyone, thank you. 2000 Legacy.

Hi, You’re welcome for the last posting, thank you for your time and research especially for calling the Innova tech support. As far as being busy the next few days I understand completely. Take your time. First I plugged in the 3130 and then warmed up the car this afternoon, I let it idle for about 20 minutes and then drove it around the block, about 2 miles. I then brought the RPM’s up to 2500 and held it there for 2 minutes. After the 2 minutes I held it at about 2500 RPM’s and documented the Live Data, it was as follows: Fuel Sys 1: CL Calc Load (%): 12.9 ECT (degrees F): 195 STFT B1 (%): 1.5 LTFT B1 (%): -11.7 MAP (inHG): 8.5 Eng RPM: 2531 Veh Speed: 0 Spark Adv: 33 IAT (degrees F): 100 MAF (1 lb./min): 1.490 TPS: 5.8 O2S B1 S2 (V): 0.705 STFT B1 S2 (%): 0 OBDSup: OBD2 O2S B1 S1 (V): 3.762 EQ Ratio: 0.997 After that I went back to the “O2S B1 S2 (V)” and held the car at about 2500 RPM’s for about 4 minutes and documented the fluctuating range values, the range was 0.525 to about 0.710. I’m not sure how accurate that was due to the fact that it was hard to keep the car at exactly 2500 RPM’s for that period of time. I then let car go back to idle and documented the Live Data again, it was as follows: Fuel Sys 1: CL Calc Load (%): 3.5 ECT (degrees F): 197 STFT B1 (%): -16.4 LTFT B1 (%): -3.1 MAP (inHG): 10.9 Eng RPM: 688 Veh Speed: 0 Spark Adv: 8 IAT (degrees F): 125 MAF (1 lb./min): 0.502 TPS: 0 O2S B1 S2 (V): 0.840 STFT B1 S2 (%): 0 OBDSup: OBD2 O2S B1 S1 (V): 3.821 EQ Ratio: 0.976 Hope this is useful, I know that you didn’t request all of the above but figured it couldn’t hurt. Please let me know your thoughts and what you think we should do next. Thanks. 2000 Legacy

Good morning everyone, Last night I started up the Legacy and let it warm for 10 minutes, I then documented all of the “Live Data” at idle with the 3130 every 10 minutes. I did this four (4) times, the documented results below are in that order starting at 5:30 PM and finishing at 6:00 PM, they are as follows: Fuel Sys 1: CL, CL, CL & CL. Calc Load (%): 5.4, 4.7, 4.3, 4.7 but then dropped to 4.3, then 3.9. ECT (Degrees F): 190, 190, 186 & 195. STFT B1(%): -18.7, -21.0, -17.9 & -18.7. LTFT B1 (%): -1.5, -1.5, -1.5 & -1.5. MAP )inHg): 14.7, 12.6, 12.1 & 11.5. Eng RPM: 667, 673, 653 & 676. Veh Speed: 0, 0, 0 & 0. Spark Adv: 4, 5, 11 & 6. Note it did go as high as 12 but then drop as low as 4. IAT (degrees F): 51, 64, 86 & 109. MAF (1 lb./min): 0.682, 0.615, 0.575 & 0.511. TPS (%): 0,0, 0 & 0. O2S B1 S2 (V): 0.820, 0.850, 0.875 & 0.845. STFT B1 S2 (%): 0,0, 0 & 0. OBDSup: OBD2, OBD2, OBD2 & OBD2. O2S B1 S1 (V): 3.845, 3.796, 3.767 & 3.679. EQ Ratio 11: 0.973, 1.030, 0.999 & 1.011. I also documented the “Live Data” at 1500 RPM’s at 5:52 PM which was in-between the 3rd and 4th time I documented Live Data at idle. Those results were as follows: Fuel Sys 1: CL. Calc Load (%): 7.0. ECT (Degrees F): 201. STFT B1(%): -20.3 but also rose to as high as 1.5. LTFT B1 (%): -3.1. MAP )inHg): 8.8. Eng RPM: 1500 about. Veh Speed: 0. Spark Adv: 28. IAT (degrees F): 93. MAF (1 lb./min): 0.939. TPS (%): 2.3 O2S B1 S2 (V): 0.860. STFT B1 S2 (%): 0. OBDSup: OBD2. O2S B1 S1 (V): 3.277 or 3.277 (can’t read my own writing). EQ Ratio 11: 0.994. I checked the spark plug wires, the factory corrugated wire loom was on all four wires and the wires were all clipped in their own little brackets. The wires appeared to be in accordance with the picture however on the passenger side the forward most wire wasn’t as straight as shown in the picture, it seem to loop or roll close to the aft wire. But like I said the wire loom was in place and the wires were clipped into the brackets. I did try and twist the spark plug wire at the plug and it seem to roll away. I guess I could unplug it to reposition it however it was dark and cold so I didn’t. Hope this all helps. Thanks again to everyone who is reading and posting advice. 2000 Legacy.

Thanks again for reflashing information and for not giving up on me yet even though I had it in my mind that I would at this point. I'll continue but may not be able to get to the additional diagnosis until late Sunday or early in the week. I'll also check the plug wires. Thanks. 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, First I'd like to thank everyone for their time, effort and patience in trying to help me with my stalling issues along with the people that run and maintain this forum. We have fought the good fight, however I wish I could say that the "Front A/F O2 Sensor" solved the stalling issues, unfortunately it didn't. We changed it the other night in the adult automotive class that I'm taking. It came out pretty easy, we disconnected the negative battery terminal which cleared the ECU. I drove it home, about 25 miles hoping that maybe it needed to adjust itself. Let it sit overnight and through the next day and took it out last night. It stalled at every stop sign/intersection. Also the Check Engine Light came back on, I checked it and it's the same, PO304, PO302 and PO301. The RPM's seem to be higher and it seems to idle a little better although I'm not quite sure. I think that I need to drive it for a while. I'd also like to monitor the gas mileage. Someone had also mentioned "flashing the ECU", could this possibly do anything? Could it be that the problem has been there so long that it's inbedded in the ECU? How is flashing the ECU different than clearing the codes with the 3130 or disconnecting the negative battery? When I called one of the local Subaru dealerships to see if there were any outstanding recalls I had asked how much it cost to flash the ECU and they said it was about $40.00. I'm tempted to just drive it as it is for now, the sad thing is that I'll be the only one that will be able to use it when I really don't need it. Oh well, this has been a great experience where I have learned so much about this car and I have met some great people on and off line. Again thanks to everyone. 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, I took the car out for a ride this afternoon. I plugged in the 3130 and set it to “Live Data”, “Manual Trigger”, and “Ending”. I drove the car for about 12 minutes/ 5 miles to warm it up, came to a stop sign, pushed in the clutch and the car started to stall. I pushed the Live Data button to capture the data. I pulled over and documented what was captured. I documented everything but I’ve only posted the; Frame**STFT B1 (%)**LTFT B1 (%) **STFT B1 S2 (%) in that order, the results are as follows: TRI**0.00**-0.7**0.00 (TRI = Trigger) -19**-0.70**-1.5**0.00 -18**+7.80**-1.5**0.00 -17**+11.7**-1.5**0.00 -16**+10.1**-1.5**0.00 -15**-8.50**-0.7**0.00 -14**0.00**-1.5**0.00 -13**0.00**-1.5**0.00 -12**-16.4**-3.1**0.00 -11**-11.7**-1.5**0.00 -10**-25.0**-0.7**0.00 -09**-17.9**-0.7**0.00 -08**-25.0**-0.7**0.00 -07**-17.9**-1.5**0.00 -06**-25.0**-0.7**-0.7 -05**+0.70**-1.5**-0.7 -04**-11.7**-0.7**-0.7 -03**3.10**-0.7**0.00 -02**0.00**-0.7**0.00 -01**0.00**-0.7**0.00 The “STFT B1 (%)” seems to be all over the place still. Please let me know if you need any of the other data that was captured. I took a look at the “cam” and “crank” sensors, the tips or ends of them appeared to be fine and were clean. I looked into the holes where each sensor goes into and did not see any signs of rust; I used a mirror and flashlight. None of the bolts or the support bracket for the cam sensor was loose. The Check Engine Light came back on, only 3 codes this time (PO304, PO302 & PO301) so far. I also documented the “Freeze Frame Data” it was as follows; Fuel Sys: CL Calc Load: 7.4 ECT: 163 STFT B1 (%): -13.2 LTFT B1 (%): -0.7 MAP (inHg): 17.7 Eng RPM: 752 Veh Speed: 0 Please let me know if there is anything else I can do or check. Thanks. 2000 Legacy

I ordered the A/F O2 Sensor early this morning and hope to have before my adult automotive class. I was wondering about taking some Live Data to see what affect the the new FPR has made, but figured I'd wait for direction since I'm not really sure about what I'm doing. I was also wondering about "adaptation" and how long it would take before things did adapt. The other concern I had was if I could do damage to the new FPR if other things still weren't correct such as the A/F O2 Sensor. I'll also take look at the "crank" and "cam" sensors using the FSM, Fuel Injection section. I don't mean to sound disheartened even though I am. I really appreciate all the advice and the time everyone has put in on this, as well as this forum. I also understand how hard this is for everyone not being able to see, touch or drive the car and that the car does have 200k on it. It's just that it has been a long time now, 2 plus years and about 25k miles. On the brighter side I have learned a lot, gained some confidence in working on my own vehicles and met some pretty decent people on-line and off-line. Thanks again. 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, I just finished replacing the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator). I checked the codes with the 3130 (all 4 cylinder misfires, no surprise), depressurized the fuel system, disconnected the negative and positive battery cables which cleared the codes/ECM, removed the FPR, put a light coat of oil (5W-30) on the "O" ring of the new FPR, installed the FPR and reconnected everything. I then checked for codes with the 3130, none of coarse. This all took about 45 minutes. I started the car, checked for leaks and drove about 2.5 miles, it stalled quite a few times and seem to run rougher than usual. There also seemed to be a burning smell, not like the one I've smelled in the past however once I got to where I was going, a minute later, I popped the hood and didn't see or smell anything. The car sat for about 45 minutes, I drove it to the gas station, filled it up and drove it for about 15 miles before I parked it in the driveway. It seemed to stumble, spit and sputter a little on occasion which it has not done in the past. It stalled as it has in the past, in fact a little more so at first than usual. Once it was warmed up, about 15 minutes it seemed to be fine, maybe even running better and idling better. Although I'm not sure. At first I thought it was worst and that I'd drive it home, order the A/F O2 Sensor and hopefully install it next week, only driving it to my class which is about 25 miles away. Then I thought that maybe it needs to clear itself. At this point I'm not sure what to do. With this being said I haven't been able to check my gas mileage with the new FPR. I think maybe order the A/F O2 Sensor and don't drive the car until my class, install the A/F O2 Sensor and hope for the best. Any thoughts? Another thing I forgot to mention was that when we checked the fuel pressure readings on 10/20/10 I replaced the fuel filter with a OEM one. It didn't make a difference but thought I'd mention it. As always and as we continue. Thanks. 2000 Legacy

Thanks for everything. I'll order the new OEM FPR and let you know how we make out. I'm hoping this is it. We won't drive the car until the new FPR is installed and the ECU is cleared. 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, We just blew air into the return line from the FPR. We depressurized the system and tried to disconnect the return line from the FPR, because the rubber hose was so short we couldn't get it off so we removed the FPR and blew air into the end of the short piece of hose. At first some gas blew back at us or the air hose, but after that we could hear air in the gas tank from the filler cap. We also inspected the short vacuum line from the FPR to the intake manifold, it was clear. We did notice that the end of the vacuum hose that connects to the intake seems somewhat loose, so we tie-wrapped it. We then took the car around the block, it stalled a few times. Backed it into the driveway and could smell gas pretty good, so we left the car running and popped the hood. Gas was leaking from the bottom of the FPR. We're guessing it's becuase we didn't replace the "O" ring on the FPR or lube it with oil. I couldn't find any information about the FPR in the FSM, I thought for sure it would be in the fuel section. I went into the other folders as well and still couldn't find it. I did find it in my Haynes book. So it looks as though we'll have to order a new FPR. I would assume OEM, correct? Am I correct in assuming that the new FPR will come with a new "O" ring? Also while I'm at it should I order the front "O2 A/F Sensor"? Did we ever decide that this was a contributing factor even though we know it should be replaced or do we replace the FPR and then see what that does? One more question, when we replace the FPR you say we should clear the ECU, I am I correct in saying that you mean we erase the codes with the 3130 ? Thanks for everything. 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, We finally got the fuel pressure measurements, they are as follows: 44 PSI at 17" vacuum when we removed the vacuum hose at the FPR the fuel pressure gauge jumped to 50 PSI. It was noted that it didn't seem to make a difference whether or not the loose end of the vacuum hose to the FPR was plugged or not. My instructor even tried tapping the FPR with a ratchet which didn't affect the fuel pressure gauge. We then shut the car off and the fuel presssure guage I thought read 42 PSI, 4 minutes later it was 44 PSI and it remained at 44 PSI for 10 minutes before we disconnected everything. Hope this helps to get us closer to resolving this issue. As always thanks for the input and help. 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, Just to give you an update. I've checked around for a "Fuel Pressure Gauge", I thought if I went to the Walmart store I'd find it but unfortunately I can only get it through the internet. I tried Advanced and Auto Zone, no luck. So by the time I checked these places out I had my Adult Auto Class and one of the instructors said he had one that he'd bring it to next weeks class. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the diagram of the fuel injection system and for everything else. 2000 Legacy

Hi, Sounds like a plan, I'll check with my instructor in my Adult Education Class to see if he has access to the gauge and hand pump so that we can check the fuel pressure. Someone a t work said that they were like $5.00 - $10.00 which if that were the case I would have bought it and tried to do it on my own in the driveway. I was hoping that I could have had the fuel pressure diagnosed prior to class so that maybe I might have been prepared for the next move. Oh well it's been a problem for a long time another week isn't going to that much difference. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for everything. 2000 Legacy

Hi, I can't thank you enough for all your time and effort. I did fat finger my reply early this morning. The "Calc Load" was 13.3 and the "MAP" was 16.2 for the Freeze Frame Data yesterday. I had written Post #160 which took me 2 plus hours and when I went to submit it I got booted out. So I rewrote it. Sorry. I like your idea of the tables you put together, wish I had thought of that. A while back I tried to insert an excel document but failed. Oh well hopefully we're coming to the end. I'm getting tired and you must be too. I tried to go and buy a cheap Fuel Pressure gauge/vacuum pump but the cheapest around town was like $50.00. I read your Post #161 along with the diagnostic for P0172. I assume that your'e suggesting I do "No. 4" for DTC P0172. I think I have an idea of how to do this, Release the Fuel Pressure as stated in "No. 3, Step 1", disconect the vacuum hose to the FPR, plug it, connect the hand pump to the FPR along with the gauge (is this where the "T" comes into play?), pump it up to 20", take a reading, start the car, let it idle and take another reading. I know this may sound stupid but if this were a fuel problem, wouldn't the car run crappy all the time and not just at initial starts/stops? I'm leaning torwards just buying the "A/F (O2) Sensor" since I have no record of it being changed and since back in 2008 I had 2 CEL's for it which I cleared. This may have been a big mistake on my part. However if changing the sensor at this point worked I would be so excited. I'm sure you'd be pretty happy as well. Any thoughts? Thanks 2000 Legacy

Sorry that I didn’t do the resistance test on the knock sensor the way you intended. It’s not you, it’s my inexperience. I don’t mean to give you unnecessary brain exercise, I’m sure you get plenty. As for the pressure test at the FPR I was a little confused. 1) What was meant by “plug it”, the vacuum hose that was connected to the FPR? 2) And then connect the vacuum pump to where the vacuum hose was? 3) Once it’s pumped to 20 in Hg, what will happen (nothing, drop, rise)? 4) Is the car idling once the pump is pumped up? 5) What’s the correct pressure? Also, since I disconnected the negative battery last night to inspect the Knock Sensor I cleared the CEL’s so today after driving about 25 miles the CEL came back on. I know, no surprise. Anyways I documented the Freeze Frame Data: The CEL was P0304 (Cyl No. 4 Misfire). Fuel Sys = OL Calc Load = 133 ECT = 78 STFT = 0 LTFT = -1.5 MAP = 16/2 RPM = 1429 Veh Speed = 0 I did the Manual Trigger Data and got the following results. Please note that I started at Frame “Trigger” to Frame “-19” to “-1”. Where the results were the same I tried to group them. 2:00 PM, Note the car didn’t stall but felt like it was going too and I had pushed the trigger. The car had been running about 10 minutes/5 miles. Fuel Sys: “OL” for Trigger, “CL” for -19 thru -7, -5 & -1 and “OL-Drive” for -6, -4 thru -2. STFT B1 (%): 0.0, 0.7, 0.0, -1.5, -1.5, -2.3, 2.3, -3.1, -1.5, -0.7, -3.1, -3.1, 3.9, 0.7, -4.6, -25.0, 0.0, 0.0, 0.0, -10.9. LTFT B1 (%): “-1.5” for Trigger, -19 thru -12 & -3 thru -1. “-2.3” for -11 thru -9, “3.9” for -8 thru -6 and “3.1” for -5 thru -4. Calc Load: 11.7, 42.7, 44.7, 47.0, 51.7, 42.3, 36.4, 39.6, 39.2, 43.9, 45.0, 43.5, 28.2, 39.2, 24.3, 17.6, 8.6, 10.1, 12.1, 7.4. STFT B1 S2 (%): 0.7 for Trigger, -19 thru -10 & -8 and 0.0 for -9 & -7 thru -1. 3:00 PM, Note the car had been running about 10 minutes/10 miles when I pushed in the clutch and everything started to shutdown. I pressed the trigger then popped the clutch to keep the car going then pulled over to document. Fuel Sys: “OL-Drive” for Trigger, -16 & -3. “CL” for -19 thru -17, -15 thru -4, -2 & -1. STFT B1 (%): 3.1, 0.0, -1.5, 1.5, 0.0, 0.0, -10.9, 3.1, -16.4, -2.3, 1.5, 2.3, 3.1, -16.4, 4.6, 3.9, 4.6, -7.0, 3.1, 1.5. LTFT B1 (%): “-3.1” for Trigger, -19 thru -16, -14, -13, -11 thru 9, -5, -3 & -2. -2.3 for -15. -3.9 for -12, -8 thru -6, -4 & -1. Calc Load: 3.9, 32.5, 24.3, 28.6, 43.9, 46.6, 42.7, 34.9, 15.2, 30.1, 27.8, 33.3, 25.0, 10.9, 24.7, 32.9, 22.3, 8.6, 30.9, 16.0. STFT B1 S2 (%): 0.7 for Trigger, -16 & -15. 0.0 for -19 thru -17 & -14 thru -1. 9:00 PM, The car had been sitting for about 3 hours, I drove it a short distance and it sat for about an hour. I restarted it and ran it for about 10 minutes when it stalled. Fuel Sys: “OL” for Trigger. “CL” for -19 thru -16, -14 thru -9, -7 & -5 thru -3. “OL-Drive” for -15, -8, -6, -2 & -1. STFT B1 (%): 3.9, 0.0, -10.1, 2.3, -2.3, 0.0, -11.7, -23.4, -20.3, 4.6, 0.0, -3.9, 0.0, 0.0, 2.3, 2.3, 0.0, -1.5,-2.3, -7.8. LTFT B1 (%): -3.9, -4.6, -4.6, -3.9, -3.9, -3.9, -3.9, -3.9, -3.9, -4.6, -3.9, -6.2, -4.6, -3.9, -3.9, -3.1, -3.9, -3.9, -4.6, -4.6. Calc Load: 0.0, 7.4, 21.9, 27.4, 26.6, 6.6, 6.6, 6.2, 4.7, 28.6, 45.4, 17.2, 50.1, 39.6, 16.4, 32.5, 9.0, 32.1, 10.5, 7.8. STFT B1 S2 (%): “0.0” for Trigger, -19 thru -12, -10, & -7 thru -1. “-0.7” for -11, -9 & -8. 10:00 PM, Fuel Sys: “OL” for Trigger. “CL” for -19 thru -1. STFT B1 (%): 0.0, -12.5, 9.3, 0.0, 9.3, 2.3, 7.0, -0.7, -10.9, -7.8, 8.5, 4.6, -18.7, 6.2, 3.1, 6.2, 6.2, 3.9, -20.3, -3.1. LTFT B1 (%): -6.2, -7.0, -7.8, -5.4, -6.2, -3.9, -4.6, -7.8, -7.8,-9.3, -6.2, -7.8, -7.0, -8.5, -8.5, -8.5, -7.8, -9.3, -8.5, -10.1 Calc Load: 7.0, 14.5, 34.9, 10.9, 36.4, 35.6, 35.2, 15.6, 14.5, 14.1, 25.0, 21.1, 28.6, 25.4, 21.5, 29.0, 17.2, 18.0, 40.0, 12.5. STFT B1 S2 (%): “0.0” for Trigger & -19, -17 thru -1 and “).7” for -18. Hope this helps. Thanks for everything. 2000 Legacy

Hi again, I'll start out by answering the question; "Can we assume that you initiated the trigger as soon as possible after the stall?" I beleive I did, I pressed the trigger button as soon as I saw all the lights on the dash start to go out meaning that the car was stalling. I did notice when I pressed the trigger button that it didn't seem to respond so I'd push it again. When I got home this afternoon, about 5:00 PM I connected the 3130 with the key on and engine off and got "OL" and "10" for a "Spark Adv". I then started the car and had to wait a few minutes to get the 3130 into Manual Trigger Mode, I started to pull out of the driveway and stalled, I got out of the driveway and drove about 0.3 miles when the car started to shut down/stalled which meant I pushed in the clutch to come to a stop. I then pulled over and shut the car off with the key on and documented the following; All 20 Frames were "CL" except for "-9 thru -5". The "Spark Adv" ranged from 1 to as high as 32 with the average being about 12. I then restarted the car and drove about 2-3 miles and got up to a speed of 45 mph and pused in the clutch as if I was pulling over or coming to a stop. Everything started shutting down so I pressed the trigger, pulled over shut the car off but left the key on and got the following: "OL-Drive" at "Trigger", "-17, - 16, -4, and -1", respectively the "Spark Adv" was 35, 10, 28, 22, and 30. All the other "Frames" were "CL" (-19, -18, -15 thru -5, -3 and -2). The "Spark Adv" respectively was; 30, 18, 34, 30, 24, 25, 32, 21, 23, 30, 34, 17, 26, 15 and 34. I restarted the car and drove home about 8 miles, back into the driveway and let the car idle with the 3130 connected and documented with no tap that the "Spark Adv" was 4, 11, 5 and 9. It seemed to go up and down. I then tapped the top of the "Knock Sensor" bolt and around it with a 3/8' wooden dowel and it didn't seem to affect the "Spark Adv" readings at all, they ranged from 4 - 12 and got as high as 13. I tried tapping harder and still didn't get any response. I shut the car off and proceded to remove the sensor. I disconnected the negative battery, unbolted the sensor and tried to unplug it. It had 2 connections, a red one at the sensor and a white one further up. I tried to unplug the red one but couldn't, I finally got the red part off but nothing else. So I tried to "Back Probe" where the red part was. There were 2 wires at this point, a light blue and white. I tried both with my red probe on my cheap multimeter that was set to 2000K ohms and seemed to get more results with the light blue wire, I then put the black lead of the meter to the metal on the car and got about -400 ohms. It seemed to drop the longer I held it. I then inspected the "Knock Sensor" and it looks as though there is a hairline crack on the plastic part (outside shell) of it. There also appeared to be a seam. I hope that this is suffient and apologize for the long winded response. I'm just trying to give you all the information since I'm not quite sure about what I'm doing. Do you think we need any more "Manual Trigger" documentation on whether or not it is "CL" or "OL"? Did I provide enough information on the "Knock Sensor"? It looks as though I'll need the "Knock Sensor" at a minimum but wonder if I shouldn't just get the "A/F (O2) Sensor" as well. What are your thoughts? If you think we should replace the "A/F (O2) Sensor", I'd like to order it tomorrow so that I can have it for my Adult Auto Class next week where I'd hopefully have access to a lift. I know I've said it many times, but thanks to everyone. Sincerely, 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, With regards to checking the "Knock Sesor": 1) If I do the tap test with a wooden dowel, do I tap the sensor itself or around it? 2) If I do the resistance test, do I disconnect at the connection closest to the sensor or the one away from the sensor thats easier to get at? 3) Which is the "Sensor Output Lead"? Results thus far with the 3130: Before work this morning at 4:00 AM I took the car around the block and used the "End" trigger point and got "CL" for the "Trigger" and "-18 thru -1". For trigger "-19" it was "OL-Drive". Note the car stalled at the end of the street/first stop sign 0.2 of mile away from home. I didn't document all the "Adv Spark" data but noticed it ranged from "0" at thr "trigger", "4" at "-16", "36" at "-9", "20" at "-5", "22" at "-3" and "30" at "-1". I'll rerun when I get home tonight. Thanks 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, When I got home from work I read the manual for the 3130, "Record by Manual Trigger" and later tried to put it to use. I assumed that the "Trigger Point" we would want is "Middle". Also what points would you want, "All 20", the "Trigger Point", -01...., +01...., or a partial group? Another thing I noticed besides "OL" and "CL" was something called "OL-Drive" which occurred a few times. I'm not sure what this means. I know that you're looking for a few days of "Cold Starts" but thought I'd ask the above questions first. When I first plugged in the 3130 with the key on/engine off the "Live Data" was "OL". I then drove 0.3 mile about 2 minutes later and the car stalled and it was "CL". The car then stalled about 3 more times in a 2 mile drive and like I mentioned above on occasion I would get the "OL-Drive". At this point I hadn't tried the "Manual Trigger". I then drove back home with my son and had him press the trigger when I told him to. The first time I was going about 45 mph, I pushed in the clutch to see if it would shut down, it did and it was "OL". I didn't notice that I could go to "Next" or "Previous" Frames. We then drove about 0.7 mile and came to a stop sign, the car stalled and I had my son press the trigger. The results were "CL" for Frames "-01 thru -06", "-07" was "OL-Drive" and "-08 thru -10" was "CL". The "Trigger Frame, +01 & +02 was "OL", Frame "+03" was "OL-Drive", Frame "+04" was "CL", "+05" was "OL-Drive" and "+06 thru +10 was "CL". I hope that this is presented clearly. As for the "Knock Sensor", I printed out sheet "FU(H4SO)-29" and will compare it to the car tomorrow night/Saturday. Is this one which is from the 2003 Legacy in the same spot and orientation as my 2000 Legacy? I did take a quick look at the Knock Sensor, it appears to be OK. I did'nt see any visible cracks and it appeared to be oriented OK. I did however notice an accorn and shell next to it which tells me squirrels have been nearby. I've noticed this in the past years as well. I did not notice any chewed wires. I should probally remove the Knock Sensor this weekend for a better inspection. Also it was mentioned that the 3130 might be able to get readings on the Knock Sensor, what would it be or how would it read on the 3130? Again thank you all for your help and patience. 2000 Legacy

Hi, When I replaced the "Knock Sensor" I did not torque the bolt/fastener since at the time I didn't have a torque wrench and from what I remember I needed a extention on the ratchet. It was while ago when I did it, I'll check out along with the link you posted especially since I was unaware of orientation. From what I remember I used the Haynes book to do it. Thanks 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, Thanks for taking the opportunity to mull this over and respond. I will read the manual for the 3130, Recording (Capturing) Live Data section "Record by Manual Trigger" and take the car out for short rides when cold over the next few days and record whether the system is "CL" or "OL". I'll also will visually imspect the "Knock Sensor". I did replace it with a NAPA one at about 148,000 miles. I also replaced the "Neutral Switch" the other night. I was like a little kid at Christmas and couldn't wait to install it hoping that it would fix the problem, no such luck. Also, I forgot to respond to Post #131 where the question was asked if "you instead left the clutch engaged but shifted into neutral and braked?" Sometimes this works, but only when you put it into neutral and take the foot off the clutch. If I were to leave my foot on the clutch and keep it in neutral it will sometimes stall. The journey continues, thanks again. 2000 Legacy

Thanks Fairtax4me for the link to Manual Transmissions on the FSM. I'll check it tonight when I get home. 2000 Legacy