2000 Legacy

Thanks OB99W, I'll get the results and post them first thing in the morning. Goodnight.

Hi again OB99W, The ohmm reading that we get in while in Neutral is "0", there is a "1" to maybe 5 digits to the left, I just assume that was zero since there are no digits to the right. Do you think we should take ohmm readings in each gear with the clutch out? Could I not be reading or using my meter correctly? The other thing I forgot to mention was that when I measured the resistance earlier today I wondered if I shouldn't have taped a paper clip to the probe on the meter since it didn't go into the B135 connector too far, but I was getting something and figured I was good. Also, the other night I was looking at the Haynes book. It mentioned going to the actual switch and following the wire and taking a readiing where it connects. If I remember correctly. I'm not sure I fully understand it and would have to read a little closer but I'm willing to do it if it helps. Of course I'd have to jack up the car and put it on stands. I just checked my meter, I will set the "DCV" to "20", follow your instructions above and let you know what I get. I guess it will have to be in the morning. Thanks again 2000 Legacy 2000 Legacy

Hi OB99W and to anyone else interested, My son and I took new ohmm readings from the ECU, B135, Pin #26 (wire harness) and to a ground. We used the bracket that the ECU mounts to for the ground. Our readings were similar to when we back-probed it the other day, at least the second number anyway. It almost always ended in 0.6 Ohmms, a few 0.7's and 0.8's. Note, I set the meter to 200, the lowest setting for Ohmms. The first number was as follows: First Run Second Run Third Run Fourth Run Fifth Run in 1st: 36.2 5.1 4.6 3.6 25.8 in 2nd: 45.0 39.0 ??.? ??.? 80.1 in 3rd: 52.0 14.8 16.7 85.0 22.0 in 4th: 40.0 ??.? 17.6 53.0 115.0 in 5th: 23.7 95.3 26.7 21.0 90.0 Thinking about it afterwards I asked my son who did the shifting and documenting if he took his foot off the clutch once it was in gear while doing the numbers, he said no that he left the clutch in the whole time while in gear. He took it off while in neutral. So I'm not sure if that makes a difference. We left everything unplugged and disconnected in case we need to redo it or check anything else at the ECU. Also you were correct, Pin #26 at B135 was a Black wire with a Green stripe. We also double checked, Pin #24 on B135 was there as a Green wire with a Black stripe. Again you were right. Thanks again for everything, I really appreciate your efforts as well as everyone else who has tried to help. 2000 Legacy

Thanks Cougar for the insight, I'll check/clean the engine ground connections and maybe down the road look at at the 02 Sensor. 2000 Legacy PS: 987687, I don't mean to be using your post for my problem. Thanks.

Thanks OB99W, I'm pretty sure that it was a black wire with a green stripe at Pin #26. When I retake the readings I'll double check. I pobally won't get to it until this coming weekend. You are correct, I "back probed" Pin #26 with the wire still plugged into the connector. From what I understand, I'm going to disconnect the B135 Connector from the ECU completely and measure the resistance from the B135 Connector, Pin #26 (Wire side, not on the ECU itself. Am I correct in saying that?) and a ground. I used the ECU mounting bracket as a ground last night. Is that OK? I'll also double check Pin #24 on the B135 Connector. Thanks for all you help. 2000 Legacy

Hi 987687, I did the plugs, wires and coil pack (all OEM), checked the Timing Belt, it looked ok. Thanks anyway. Good luck with you issue and problem. 2000 Legacy

Hi OB99W and anyone else that can possibly help, I first checked the codes from the Check Engine Light (P0301, P0302, P0303 and P0304; Cylinder Misfires on all 4 cylinders). Disconnected the negative cable on the battery. Got to the ECU and checked Pin # 26 on ECU Connector B135. Note, your attachment looked like it was inverted, I happened to be looking at the 2000+_Legacy_FSM, sheet EN(H4)-38 which is what our car looked like. Also noted that there was nothing in Pins 22, 23, 24 and 25 on Connector B135. Anyways the readings we got on my cheap Ohmmeter was "0" in Neutral, then shifted into 1st gear it was about 26 to 5.9,then shifted into 2nd it was 38.4 to 0.6 then 3rd: 95 to 0.6 then 4th: 185 to 0.6 then 5th: 30.3 to 0.7 we repeated this two more times and the first number we got was different but it always seem to settle or end/drop to 0.6 except for 1st gear. The second time we checked it settled or dropped to 1.6 and the third time it settled or dropped to 0.7. Now I have to admit as I am no mechanic, nor do I understand electric circuits or fully understand how to read my meter. I believe that I had it on the ohmms setting at the lowest number which was 200. We then took the car out on a 10 mile ride and stalled at just about every stop. I also had th car going at about 50 mph, pushed in the clutch and the tachometer dropped real quick and start to shutdown, I'd take my foot off the clutch and the car would restart or pop start. I did this in every gear. Like I mentioned early on of this six page problem, it seems as the car is warmed up the stalling is less frequent. Oh well, thanks for everything. 2000 Legacy

Thanks 987687, I'm not sure how to fix my misfires, the dealer replaced the Fuel Injectors and that didn't seem to work. Good luck on your problem, please keep us posted. It seemed like we had or have a similar problem, stalling when the clutch is pushed in at a stop or intersection. Thanks 2000 Legacy

Hi OB99W and Trevor, I have never verified the correct operation of the "Neutral Switch", I don't know how to do that or what to look for. I did notice this past winter when I had the car on jack stands to do the front drive axles that the plastic nut (I think) was loose on the Neutral Switch so I snugged it up. If I remember correctly it was a small wire connected to the plastic nut. I wasn't too sure about it and it seemed complicated at the time. Please let me know what I can do to verify the correct operation. As for the "Fuel Delivery", I had replaced the fuel filter that I got from NAPA at about 176,000 miles (I think, it's documented early on). I'm not sure but it almost seems thats when the problems started and have often wondered about changing the fuel filter again. However it seems to me that if the filter was bad that the car would spit and sputter all the time. The car runs great with exception to a rough idle until you come to a stop or intersection when the clutch is pushed in. Thanks 2000 Legacy

Hi Fairtax4me, Thanks for responding again. It was the Dealer that replaced the IAC motor, they were going to charge me $250.00 to do so. At that price I would think that it would be the entire unit. It was the second thing they did after replacing the remainder Fuel Injectors. Neither worked so I had them put the old parts (Injectors & IAC)back in. DaveT and I checked the vacuum hoses on 3/29/10 (post #19) and things seemed to be ok. This past Sunday night I was poking around and noticed on the under side of the hood a diagram of the vacuum system and traced the hoses, I think that there were 4 or 6. I didn't see anything that looked abnormal. Now when we checked on 3/29 we connected the guage to just the intake and not all of them. The reading we got was 16-17. Should we have done all of them or was just the one good enough? The O2 Sensor was never replaced. I keep wondering if that could be the problem as well. I just cleared the codes two times about 25,000 miles ago. Thanks again 2000 Legacy in CT

Hi everyone, I just replied to 987687's problem, Weird VSS" and was wondering if thats what my problem is. I know that someone had mentioed it in an earlier response but brushed it off since the speedometer seems to work fine and since the only trouble codes I get are for Cylinder Misfires. Thanks for everything everyone in trying to help me solve this problem. 2000 Legacy in CT

Hey 987687, How did you make out with your VSS? The reason I ask is because I have a similar problem (car stalls when the clutch is pushed in when coming to a stop sign or intersection). I posted this problem back in the spring as "2000 Legacy stalls when clutch is depressed", the history is currently on pg. 15 of this forum at the moment. Someone in one of the responses mentioned the VSS as being the problem but I brused it off since the speedometer seems to work fine and since the only trouble codes I have are Cylinder Misfires (P0301, P0302 & P0304 I think). The one thing I have noticed is that the Tachometer drops real fast when the car is going to stall. Please let me know how you make out, I've had this problem for about a year and a half now. Unfortunately its too unsafe for my wife or son to drive. Thanks 2000 Legacy in CT.

Good morning OB99W, Thanks for taking the time to help me with my stalling problem. To answer your questions from 4/23/10: The speedometer seems to work OK or be accurate at low speeds, however I have noticed that when it does stall the RPM's drop real quick and everything just shuts down. I never really noticed the speedometer, but it too must drop just as quick. I'll have to check it out the next time I take it out. A friend of mine who turned me onto this website thinks he may have a "scan tool capable of viewing live data", so maybe that will help. As for the "higher-tha-expected compression readings", could my adding "Restore" at the last oil change caused this? Also, how could the timing belt be off by a tooth? The belt was changed about 85,000 miles ago/4 years ago. Again, my friend said that we should be able to check this out as well. The check engine codes that we've had on this car have pretty much been as I mentioned. In the last four years we had a "Knock Sensor" code, I forgot the number but I changed the sensor and haven't seen it since. The "P0133" code came on twice, once at 172,929 (1/29/08) and at 178,225 (5/7/08). Both times I cleared it and haven't seen it since. The only other codes have been the P030X, Misfire codes which have been more frequent and current. Again, thank you for your efforts as well as everyone else who has taken the time to help. 2000 Legacy

Hi Dickensheets, It is very frustrating and I too have gotten use to putting it in neutral however it doesn't always work and I'm not comfortable letting my son or wife driving it. But I often wonder if the clutch is related becuase that is always the one common element. It seems that the minute the clutch is depressed and held in for a period of time that the RPM's drop and everything shutsdown. Thanks. 2000 Legacy

Hi Mike104, Thanks for responding, as for your questions, I assume that when the Subaru dealer replaced the plugs and wires that they used OEM. In fact when we replaced the plugs a few weeks ago, the plugs that they used were OEM (NGK). At that time we did a "resistance test" on the wires and they were all within spec. As for the High Compression Values", I asked someone at work about it, they asked if I had added any additives. The last time I changed the oil, about 1700 miles ago (January 13, 2010), I used a thicker oil, Mobil 10W-30 along with a can of "Restore" hoping that this would solve the problem. It didn't. The guy at work said that this could be tghe reason for the higher than normal values. I'm not sure about the "Timing", according to my records the Timing Belt should be good for another 20,000 miles. Thanks 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, Update; last night at my Adult Auto Class we did a Manual Compression Test and the results were as follows: Test 1 Cyl # 1 = 210 PSI Cyl # 3 = 220-225 PSI Cyl # 2 = 210 PSI Cyl # 4 = 210 PSI Test 2 Cyl # 1 = 215 PSI Cyl # 3 = 225 PSI Cyl # 2 = 205 PSI Cyl # 4 = 210 PSI I had forgotten the specs/instructions at home to see if this test was within range. When I got home I checked it and "ME(H4)-22" from the manual said that the "Standard" should be 176 PSI and that the "Difference" should be within 7 PSI. So mine is higher, is that a sign of any problems? The other thing I noticed that the Manual said to said to "Relieve the Fuel Pressure", we didn't do that. Would that have affected our results? So with these results we decided that a "Leak Down Test" wasn't needed. Any other thoughts or ideas? I also checked the Check Engine Light; Codes P0301, P0303 and P0304, all Misfire Codes. Thank you. 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, Just wanted to send an update on the status of my stalling problem and to say thanks for everyones support/efforts. Last night we replaced the spark plugs with OEM NGK. The plugs that were in there were the same and looked ok, but changed them anyway. We also checked the "resistance values" on each spark plug wire, they checked out to be within specs. At next weeks "Adult Education Automotive Class" the instructor is going to help me to do a "Manual Compression Test". Are the "Specs & Procedures" for doing this available on-line or on "Legacy777's" http://Http://www.main.experinencetherave.co...0+_Legacy_FSM/ ? Also, where can I find a cheap "Leak Down Tester" or where I could borrow ? Thanks 2000 Legacy

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that when I installed the new Engine Temperature Sensor and replaced the Coil Pack I disconected the Negative Battery Cable which cleared the Check Engine Light (Misfire Codes), well within a day/50 miles the Check Engine Light came on again. The codes are: - P0301, Cyl #1 Misfire - P0304, Cyl #4 Misfire Thanks again.

Hi everyone, First I'd like to thank everyone for their advice and time in trying to help me solve my stalling probllem. I spent Saturday replacing the: - Engine Coolant Temoperature Sensor - Reinstalled the original Coil Pack - Checked the ground and Battery Cables - The Throtle Body looked clean So now I guess my next move is to do a Vaccum Leak check in the near future. Please continue to respond if you think you can help. Thanks.

Thanks again "Legacy777", "DaveT" and "OB99W" for all the insight. I still haven't had time to try everyones suggestions but I'm hoping that maybe this coming weekend I might be able too. 2000 Legacy

Hi Josh, Thanks for responding. Yes, the misfire codes are the only codes currently stored. I have'nt seen the 02 Sensor codes, P0133 since about 178,000 miles or about a year and half ago. I replaced the ignition coil in the hopes that it would solve the stalling problem. Someone had mentioned that it could be the cuase and it seemed like an easy fix, although it was $100.00. Unfortuneately it was not OEM, I would have had to order it from Subaru and the local auto parts store had this one in stock. I really kick myself for not waiting for the OEM since the price was the same. As far as coming to a light or stop sign and shifting into neutral then letting off the clutch, that used to work, but it doesn't seem to work that well anymore. It seems the only thing that works is letting it warm up for quite a while and even then it stalls on occasion. However it seems to only happen with the first few stops. I believe that I still have the original Coil Pack, is there a way to check it? I hate to spend another $100. I did check the ground cable and battery cables last night, they appear to be good. I also located the Coolant Temperature Senor last night as suggested earlier. It doesn't look like it will be that easy to change but will try it next week if time allows. Thanks again and to everyone who is offering help. 2000 Legacy

Imdew, Thanks for the insight, I'll try it and let you know how I make out. It may be a week or so before I get to it but will definetly try a new Coolant Temperature Sensor and check the battery/ground connections. As for the Coil Pack, I still have the original one, is there a way that I can check it to see if it is still good? Thanks again 2000 Legacy Fairtax4me, I appologize for the extra post, this sort of thing is new to me and I spazzed out, especillay since I wrote this out once yesterday and got booted out only to have to redo it. I think I spent 3 hours doing this yesterday. Thanks for the kudos. I will also check for vaccuum leaks. You'd think the dealer would have done this. 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, I have a 2000 Subaru Legacy, Model "L", 2.5 Liter, 5 speed, 4 door that has almost 202,000 miles on it and I am desperately looking for help. I bought it brand new and have maintained it in accordance with the "Maintenance Booklet". I am not much of a mechanic but have been trying to do the basics. The problem I'm having is that the car stalls when you come to an intersection, stop sign or light when you depress or push in the clutch and hold it in for a short period of time. It doesn't stall while down-shifting. Other than this the car runs great. I have noticed that if I let the car warm up for about 10 to 15 minutes that the car doesn't seem to stall as much. However I do notice a burnt smell that I can't pinpoint. I've also noticed that once the car has been run for a while, then shutdown for a few hours and then driven it doesn't seem to stall. This has been a problem for about the last 20,000 miles or past year and seems to be getting worst as time goes on. The "Check Engine" light is on, the codes are P0301, P0302, P0303 & P0304 all Cylinder misfires. I've cleared the codes in the past but this seems to make it worst, it seems if I leave the codes on the car seems to run better over time. In preparing this write-up I went through my documentation and noticed at 173,000 and 178,000 miles I had a Check Engine code, P0133 (02 Sensor Ckt Slow to Response Bank 1/Sensor 1). Could that be the problem? Also, which Oxygen Sensor is that? The Haynes book calls the 02 Sensors either "Upstream" or Downstream". As for maintenance or things done since 178,000 miles I've replaced the oil and filter every 5,000 miles using Penzoil 5W-30 High Mileage. At 180,000 I replaced the Air and Fuel Filters (not factory)and Battery. At 182,000 miles I had a Subaru dealer do a Fuel Induction Service, Replace Spark Plugs and Wires, they also replaced the Coolant/Conditioner and Brake Fluid. At 185,000 miles I replaced the Ignition Coil (not factory). About 500 miles later the car was running horible, I went back to the dealer and they replaced Fuel Injector #1. The car seemed to run better. At 192,000 the Check Engine Light came on, P0304, I cleared it. I went back to the dealer at about 193,000 miles because the car seemed to be stalling more frequently, they replaced the rest of the Fuel Injectors, that didn't work, they replaced the Idle Air Control Motor, that didn't work, they replaced the Air Flow Sensor, that didn't work, they called Subaru of America, they recommended a Engine Management Pinpoint Test to the Main Computer, they tested Voltage and Grounds and found no electronic abnormalties. They then suggested they remove the Cylinder Heads for further diagnostics. I refused becuase of the unknown cost, in fact I had them put the old parts back since they wanted a $1000.00 for things that didn't fix the problem. This still cost me $370.00. I'm hoping that there is someone out there that can PLEASE help me to solve this stalling problem. Like I said earlier, this has been a great car that runs great. Thank-you 2000 Legacy in CT