tkaste

I have been using Wawa gas for a while now without a problem. 1995 Subie Legacy L wagon. Several years ago they opened a super wawa in my neighborhood that caused the only other station, a Lukoil station, to close. I was friendly with the owner and asked him before he closed about his pricing being 0.10/gal higher than Wawa. He said the problem was Lukoil owned the tanks and sets the price but the gas he gets comes from conoco/phillips which is the same supplier as wawa, according to him. The only difference is the additives put in a the last minute so the gas is all the same but the additives may be different.

I just put a Sony AM/FM CD with USB port and Aux input in my 1995 Legacy Wagon from Crutchfield. I wanted to be able to use my Zune - yes a Zune not an IPOD while in the car. Go to the web site - http://www.crutchfield.com , input year, make and model of your car and they come back with what units fit your car. They also include in the price wiring harness, face plates and mounting brackets but thier instructions told me to remove the existing brackets and reuse them for my car. Installation was simple took less than an hour and now I have 30 GB of music in my car with no commercials

+1 on the suction cup dent puller, . Used one on my passenger door after someone sideswiped me, it took some of the impressions out but not a lot. Ended up using a fair amount of bondo to smooth it out. Looks better than it did.

Notice you said you are in West Chester, PA I am in Phoenixville. If you want a good second opinion try M&H Transmission on Rte 23 in Phoenixville. When I had problems with my Volvo I took it to him and he said he the only thing to do was change out the tranny fluid with a drain and fill several times and hope for the best. I asked about a tranny flush and boy he did not like those things, said they are a complete rip off. He said the Volvo Auto Trans were known to fail at around 100,000 and there is nothing you can do to fix them short of repacling with a brand new tranny and its just not worth it unless I wanted to give him around $6,000. I thought he was BSing me so I did and internet search and he was right. Changed the fluid out as he said got around 136,000 out if when she finally died of tranny failure. Volvo for Life my A**

That was way cool.

I used Diesel to clean out a 1999 Dodge Durango 5.2 that was prone to sludge problems. Cleaned it out pretty good but would have to do it least 1 a year to keep sludge under control. Not sure if it was a safe/good idea but seemed like one at the time Was running Mobil 1 full synthetic and it still sludged up. Gotta love Dodge.

did not have to remove the rotor, caliper or dust sheild. just removed the 2 bolts connected the strut mount, the castle nut on tie rod end popped the tie rod out, rotated everything out of the way, slid the old axel out and put new one in. Only time consuming aspect was getting the bolts to break free. All original parts and in SE PA road salt is a problem so they were on there tight. Hum was not present before I replaced everything so i suspect just cheap Chinese axel but will have to look into the wheel bearings.

Alignment done now off to FL. - My mechanic said I eye balled it pretty close. Entire job did not take that long. Only problem was getting things apart. Everything was original so we are talking 15 yrs of NE salt, rain, salt, snow, salt, slush. Did I mention salt ? I have an impact gun with 260 ft/lbs max torgue and even that did not work sometimes. Had to use a 4ft breaker bar to free some of the bolts. Maybe tiem to go get a better impact gun. Never thought of the Ball Joint trick to replace them, I will do that when I replace them again if needed. The originals are in pretty bad shape so I guess I will just toss them

Broke the passenger inner tie rod friday afternoon, thought might as well do the CV joints since boots were torn as well with a very nice clicking sound from the drivers side. Of course I need the car Mon for a long road trip, from PA to FL and back in 4 days, so I settled for Advance CV joints. Alighment being done 8am Monday then off to FL. Kept the originals and will rebuild them so that when the Chinesse ones fail I will have OEM to replace them with. Other than cleaning them up and new boots is there anything else I should do, should I rebuild the CV joints as well. If so anyone know where I can get a quaility rebuild kit or is it Subaru Stock only ? Considering 168,000 miles in the NE, OEM is probably worth the price. Got a good deal as the clerk only charged me for 1 axel. Amazingly he is not a pimple faced pr**k who knows nothing about cars, but from what I understand he makes a lot of errors like that and is on the short list for firing. Installation was easy as my daughters boyfriend came over to help. He is in a diesl repair program and has some nice ideas on doing the job that made it easier than anything else I found on line. Disconnect the strut housing from the brake assembly. Entire brake assembly, rotor, caliper.. all pivot out of the way, jsut be carfull of break line and ABS sline, slide out axel. Other than a little hum, sounds like tire road noise, they do not seem to bad, just have to see how long they last. Hopefully they make it to FL and back with out an issue.

I definetly believe the outer CV joint is going. Whenever I make a sharp left turn i get click sound like marbles in a hub cap. On my last FW drive car this was the CV joint. Boots are fine, no cuts, tears.... I heard about rebuilding CV joints, where do I go to find rebuid kit ? Since it appears aftermarket is junk I would rather just rebuild them instead of replacing the entire axel as that is all I can seem to find at the chain stores.

I just noticed noise coming from my left outer CV so I thought I would check them all out. 1995 Leg L MT with FJ22 and 168,000 miles. I picked the car up used so it is possible they are original. All 4 axles have a little play in them so I figured I would replace all 4 at once. Told a friend of mine about this and he says it could be normal as some cars have play in the axels. I find this hard to believe. he has done lots of work on cars over the years but this I find odd. Any thoughts - do Subaru's axels tend to have a little wiggle in them ? Also I noticed everyone seems down on AutoZone and Advance Auto axels, what about Car Quest? most of the independent shops in my area seem to use them for parts. thanks

I just changed mine out myself. Had the code read at Advance Auto came up Knock Sensor Failure. They wanted $78 for the part, Auto Zone wanted $45. Took about 15 mins to change out.

Just replaced the Knock Sensor. Unbelievable how much differnce it made. On the way to AutoZone could not even be in 5th gear on any type of incline, she would just bog down an loose speed. Now all is good again:banana: Thanks to all for your help

thanks for all the advice. Just went to autozone web site - $44.99. about 6 miles out off the way compared to Advance Auto but for $34 I think it will be worth it. I ound on the engine block after looking at the picture on autozone, drivers side tucked under the throttle body I like this board. I just picked this car up a few months ago and no major problems just minor inconviences and every time i post a question I get an answer that is dead on. not bad for 1995 EJ22 with 165,000 on it. Any advice on making it last a while. The last owner did excellent maint. Belts, all fluids... so based one what I have read on Subie's just keep up the routine maint. and it will go forever(hoepfully)

CEL just came on on me 1995 Lego. Advanced Aiuto read the code and it is a knock sensor malfuction. Its $78 for the part but I have no idea where on the car it is located. thanks for any help

I recently picked up a 1995 Legacy Wagon 5sp with 157,000 miles on it and so far its been a great car. Went from PA to FL to pick up a 140hp outboard engine for my son's boat (engine in the back of the car had more hp than the engine under the hood!), been up to CT and Cape Cod to do some fishing. Love this car. The exterior paint is horrible, I was thinking of using rubbing compound to clean it up a bit but I am not sure if it has a clear coat. thanks for any help.

thanks for the tip. I will check it out when I get home later today. Lots of good stuff on this forum.

I have a 1995 Legacy Wagon. Yesterday the AC was on and running and then the fan just shut off. Interesting enough only the #4 position on the fan works, 1-3 no power to the fan. I check the fuses and all are good is there some type of relay that could cause this or could it just be a bad fan motor. Thanks for any help