"You need a single port exhaust header and then bolt EJ25 intake manifold to the EJ22. Swap the crank sprocket and drivers side cam sprocket when installing the new timing belt (it lakes 3 minutes, very simple, no extra work really"
This is what another member of this and another site told me. I'm working with another gentleman whose been a great help but we're at a standstill. The motor is in the car, the "y" pipe is installed. New clutch kit and flex plate. I'm not disagreeing with what the other very knowledgeable member told me, just need more than one source. The guy that is helping me is very concerned with the timing and doesn't believe that just "Swap the crank sprocket and drivers side cam sprocket" will work. He's worried about messing up a $1000 motor, which I really appreciate. He's owned shops, and builds racecars, so is very knowledgeable.
The following is from the member I spoke of earlier. Again I don't doubt what he is telling me at all. I just need a seconded motion if you will....
the timing marks are hash marks like this ''|'' not the arrows. CRANK the hash mark on the crank sprocket is located on the rear of the sprocket. there is a flange with ''tabs'', the timing mark is on one of those. some of the later sprockets have a ''zillion'' tiny taps. the sprockets from the 90s have about 6. TIP: the key way slot on the crank and sprocket is supposed to be down in the 6 oclock position when the crank is lined up right. CAM the hash mark on the cams is located on the outer edge of the front face of the sprocket. this mark aligns with a cut in the timing cover or the head behind the sprocket pulley. the hash mark should be straight up in the 12 oclock position. NOT the ARROWS, NEVER the ARROWS. the driver side cam will be ''loaded'', but it should sit still when positioned correctly. if it jumps after you position it try again in a slightly different position. the passenger side cam will be at rest, no load, no worries. it is not unusual for one pulley to be a tooth off after your first attempt to set it. if so try again. one tooth makes a big difference. 1/2 a tooth may be ok. rotate the crank by hand 2 full rotations after you install the belt and check the alignment marks again, pulley to engine, not belt. if the belt has marks on it they will not line up for something like 700 rotations. if you are re-using the tensioner, make sure it is in the upright position when you compress the piston. (piston pointing up & down.) if you do it with it on its side you can damage it. and compress it SLOWLY, VERY SLOWLY. a new tensioner will come compressed. but if you get it wrong the first time and need to redo it, be careful. a note for the mechanic, subaru timing belt rookies are always looking for TDC. you do not need to do that. i only know subarus, but apparently this is different than ANY other engine on earth. suabru gives you very specific timing alignment marks which eliminate that requirement. the correct timing alignment marks locate all 4 pistons at mid- stroke. this eliminates any possibility of valve to piston damage. they even did this on their ''non-interference'' engines which do not have valve / piston interference..
