solakian

Per the NASTF request, Subaru provided all Mode 6 definitions. However, the TID 03 / CID 03 data does not match the readings I'm getting from my Genisys. Per the Subaur data, the range for that test is -62.5 to +62.5 mmHg. Genisys says the limit is 20775 and my measured value is 27170 I've sent a requst for tech support to OTC. We'll see what happens next.

Genisys is OTC's top end Scan Tool, fully functional for both OEM and OBD2 data. OTC provides a wealth of information about use of the tool, but not much specific information about OE data. So far, my best bet seems to be an Information Request form through the NASTF (National Automotive Service Task Force). They have contacted Subaru on my behalf requesting the info I need. I received a direct response from Subaru stating that the information is missing from their published documentation and they are working on providing an answer. It's my understanding that the NASTF will not close the issue until I let them know the outcome.

I ran an auto system test, using my Genysis Scan tool, and got the following result; Component ID 03 / Test ID 03 - Failed Limit 20775 measured value 27170 ECU E1 does anyone have definitions of Mode 6 information? I need help understanding what this means. All other tests passed, but a list of all the test definitions would probably be helpful in the future.

I've been reading through lots of threads on this forum regarding converting my Loyale from 4 lug to 5 lug. There are two versions for the front, one is much simpler than the other. I would like to hear from some of you that have done the swap to better understand what is really necessary. Version 1; For the front of the car, you will need to change: Struts, lower control arms, spindles, brakes (calipers, rotors), hubs, and tie rod ends. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50400 Version 2; You can literally use any front knuckle assembly off any newer Subaru. They all have the same ball joint and strut mounting. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126625&page=2 I would also like to know what has worked for you regarding the conversion of the rear wheels. There are fewer posts, but one that I found suggests that I will need the hub, backing plate, rotor and caliper from a 4WD XT6. Are there any other choices (simpler) for the rear?

Check out the posting by Turbone on this thread on 3/24/11. He pasted in a scan of the Subaru service manual. Subaru states that the Green link (.5 mm2) will melt at 80 amps after 15 seconds. The Red link (.85 mm2) will melt at 130 Amps after 15 seconds, and the Black link (1.25 mm2) will melt at 190 Amps after 15 seconds. Thats a far cry from the Chilton manual. Fusible links are not meant to blow quickly so their ratings can be hard to pin down.

Bussman makes 40A, 50A, and 60A Fusible links that fit directly into the Loyale fusible link box without any modification. The 40A is green and is a direct replacement for the green fusible link. The 50A is red and directly replaced the red fusible link. The 60A is yellow and may be considered a little light for the black fusible link, but I've been running a 60A yellow Bussman link for a year now without any problems. I keep a spare of each in the glove box but have not needed them so far. The part numbers are BP/FLF-40-RP (-50-RP & -60-RP). I bought them off the rack at AutoZone for about 3.50 each.

I read a lot of posts that talk about non-stock wheel on their Loyales. I have not been able to locate any that would fit and I'm concerned about larger wheels and tires on my already underpowered Loyale. What wheels wil fit and who sells them? What size tire will work without making the performace unacceptable?

I rebuilt my 94 EA82 with a kit and pistons from these folks. 12,000 miles later no problem. Everything fit, good service, and nothing was missing. Seem to be legit.

I understand that Subaru states that the throttle body must be replaced if the stop screw is adjusted. I am hoping that someone has had some success adjusting the screw despite Subaru's recomendation. I bought the car with 200,000 miles on it and the paint on the screw was long gone. I believe the screw had been adjusted prior to my purchase.

Here's my latest theory. The TPS is out of adjustment. When the throttle is closed, the air flow is so low that the MAF isn't as good a measure of air flow as the TPS, hence the idle switch (it tells the ECM to set fuel delivery by TPS, ignoring the MAF). The Subaru manual describes setting the TPS according to resistance at position, and to check the idle switch by inserting feeler gauges between the stop screw and throttle lever. Problem is..... I can't find a procedure to correctly set the throttle stop screw (the one that sets the physical stop to position the butterfly in the throttle body). The idle speed adjustment procedure adjusts the IAS screw that is mounted just below the air horn on near the IAC solenoid. But again, no mention of the throttle stop screw adjustment. Can anyone provide a procedure to adjust the throttle stop screw? If the stop screw is wrong and the TPS is adjusted the mixture will be wrong at idle which may lead to a failed emissions test and a lag as the ECM transistions from idle to accelerate (off-idle). My car has both symptoms. By adjusting the idle stop screw in, until the idle switch was open, I belive I caused the ECM to depend entirely upon the MAF... and... I am keeping the O2 sensor hot enough to stay very active. It elimitated the symptoms but it's not right and the engine idles between 1150 and 1300 rpm.

I suspect that when the idle switch is closed, the ECM puts the car in open loop. It only has a one wire O2 sensor and the potential of the sensor cooling down at idle is high. If I'm correct, the ECM would then use the MAF, TPS, and Coolant temp to determine the correct mixture. If my assumption is correct, preventing the idle switch from closing, as I did, keeps the engine in closed loop. It runs much better and the test shows that it's cleaner too. I own the factory manual but it does not go into specifics about what happens when the idle switch closes. I was hoping to find a knowledgeable, Subaru trained, performance / emission tech who could offer a solid explanation.

I replaced the 2 wire coolant temp sensor (input to the ECM) about 6 months ago due to physical damage. I replaced the one wire coolant temp sensor (gauge sensor) about 1 month ago after a radiator hose blew, along with a new 190 tstat.

It took 5 visits to the emissions test to get a passing grade on my 1994 Loyale. Every failure was due to high HC at idle. The test is not done on the dyno. I replaced the injector, spark plugs, PCV valve, and O2 sensor. tested the throttle pos switch, MAF sensor, EGR valve and solenoid, carbon cannistor and solenoid, checked for vacuum leaks, ran a compression test, adjusted the idle speed and ignition timing to spec, and checked for diagnostic codes. Everything was ok. What finally got the car to pass was to turn the idle stop screw in until the throttle switch (part of the throttle position sensor) opened. I noticed that when the throttle was properly adjusted and idleing at 700 rpm with the idle swith closed, the O2 sensor was barely active. When the idle was about 1200 with the idle switch open the 02 sensor was very active. At 1200 rpm idle, HC was 161ppm. At 700 rpm idle, HC was 320 to 420 ppm. In GA, max HC at idle is 220, max speed at idle is 1250. As an added bonus, the throttle lag that this car has always had off the line and between shifts is gone with the higher idle setting. How does the engine control stratey change when the idle switch closes? The HC at 2500 rpm was 35 to 40ppm throughout all 5 tests.

does anyone know the value, in Amps, of the 4 fusible links located on the left shock tower under the hood? On the cover, the black link is labeled 1.25 the greens are labeled .5 and the red is labeled .85. the closest subaru dealer is 60 miles away and the local parts store sells a bussman fusible link that plugs right in, but comes in ratings from 30 to 60 amps. I accidentally burnt the black one while working around the alternator.