Del Gue

I was wondering how often everybody here tunes up their Subs? Plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor and air filter. I last changed them all out 2 years ago. Everything is running great, but my mpg isn't the best. Thanks

The right front caliper on me 83' wagon is slowly leaking. It doesn't appear to be at the break line, but within the caliper itself. I figure the rubber stuff needs to be change out. Have any of you ever attempted this procedure, and how difficult is it? Thanks for the help.

Although I've never had one, I think the moon roof is a "pro" too. Good lookin' vehicle.

I've posted about this a couple of times in the past few months, and am still trying to get my radiator fan to work. I jumped the radiator fan and it works just fine. I replaced the thermoswitch with a brand new one. HERE'S THE NEW CLUE: I checked the fuse and it was blown, so I replaced it with a new 20a. A couple of days later with the fan still not working, I decided to check the fuse again, and it had blown too. Here's the question: Could the new thermoswitch be the wrong one, causing the fuse to blow, or what could be the cause? I'm not good at all on electrical stuff. Thanks for all the help.

83' Gl Wagon. I am getting a fine, black misty soot in my air breather, and it is clogging up me carb. (This will be in laymen's terms). The soot is coming from the air breather's right side, where a rubber hose plugs into it. The rubber hose goes back to a black plastic "silencer" that is directly over the dipstick area; proceeds down and "t's" off to a metal device, and continues on as a rubber hose, eventually going into the exhaust pipe. The soot is slowly shooting out of the black plastic silencer, which was partially filled with condensation. I figure the problem is most likely the metal device just below the dipstick area that the hose t's into. I simply unplugged the hose at the breather which keeps the soot from getting into the carb, and plugged the hose end and the breather end. The car is running much better, but I don't like rigs and need some problem solvers to help me. Much appreciated.

The Haynes manual shows that the thermostat for my 83 GL wagon should open up at 190 degrees, but the Japanese auto parts store sold me a 180 degree thermostat, saying it was "OEM" and would work just fine. I haven't installed it yet, because that doesn't sound correct to me. Is the 180 o.k. to use, or should I try to find a 190 somewhere (where?), and stick to the manual? What would be the benefits/consequences of using a 180? Thanks for the help.

Help. I need to know where to order a new disty for my 83' gl wagon (frontwheel drive). I looked online at RockAuto, but 4 different ones came up on the search, and I couldn't really tell which one I need. I had thought from an earlier post this past summer that a person could re-build a disty with a new precision bearing, but that does not appear to be the case after I have taken it apart. I just don't want to order one, wait 4 days and then get the wrong one. Any suggestions. thanks for the help.

The distributor on my 83 gl wagon failed this past weekend. I thought from an earlier post this past summer that they were re-buildable with a precision bearing, but that doesn't appear to be the case. I looked online at ROCKAUTO, and 4 different distys came up. Where can I order a new disty and get the correct one sent to me? I can't even determine who manufactured my old one. Help. thanks

My radiator cooling fan is not switching on at all when it gets too warm. I went direct from the battery to the fan and the fan worked fine. I replaced the thermo-switch, but still no go. I cleaned the connectors as best I could too. Is there anything I'm missing? I took the radiator cap off at normal operating temperature, accelerated it and the flow seemed o.k. Could a bad flow from a bad thermostat cause the fan to not turn on, and what temp should a new thermostat be rated? thanks for all the help

All four of the exhaust manifold studs on my 83' wagon (217,000) are stripped out. I currently have some small c-clamps holding things together (how's that for a rig?) The size of the stud that I have left is meteric 10 X 1.25, but it's shot. I'm having a hard time finding some replacement studs. I need to helicoil all of them anyway, so that has to be taken into consideration for size. Autozone and O'reilly's had zilch. Any suggestions on what and where to buy? Thanks

My oil pressure gauge has not worked for several months (83' GL wagon). I installed a new sending unit this past weekend (from AutoZone), but nothing happened. The new unit didn't much look like the old blue one that was on the pump. I checked fuses and they are good. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help. I don't like being without me gauge.

I replaced a front drive axle about a year and a half ago, and its gone bad already. I bought it from Pep Boys, and it has a life-time warranty, but I don't feel like changing it out every 18 months. How long should I expect a drive axle to last, and where can I buy a quality one. Normal street and highway driving, 8000 miles a year, 83 GL wagon. thanks.

I bought a new pair of struts about a year and a half ago from Autozone. I don't remember the brand off hand, but they came up on the Autozone computer for an 83' GL wagon. The right strut is now shot! I can press down on the hood, causing the strut to make noise and the entire front end to go up and down fairly easy. ( Does this sound like it could be a spring problem too?) I do not drive more than 9000 miles a year under normal city/highway driving and under normal loads. I am wanting to buy some new struts (and rear shocks), and need some brand recommendations from everyone. I would like a brand and model that is dependable, high quality but not terribly high priced. Does anyone have any suggestions? thanks for all the help.

83' GL Wagon...212,000. My wagon has a problem after sitting out in cold weather (during warm-up only). If I don't hold the clutch in, even in nuetral, the car will slightly surge foreward as if it were in gear. I push the clutch in and hold it for a minute or so. After it warms up a bit and then reaches n.o.t., everything works great. Obviously, something is worn out. This isn'ta major concern for me, but I was wondering if anyone might know what is happening here? Maybe it's just chompin' at the bit! thanks.

Then, is 13/32 the size of stud that I use with the heli-coil? As I say, I have 0 studs there now. Thanks for all of this help.

I too appreciate all of this info. Mine are now held on with small c-clamps. What kind of rig is that? My problem is that all 4 studs are gone, and everything is stripped out up in there. Would a commercial parts store have studs that will fit? I do almost all of my own repair work, but this one sort of intimidates me. I am having a hard time sleeping because of the rig I put on it.

Miles...hold off awhile...I will look to the salvage yards here first. I was hoping someone would know of a specialty shop to buy brand new ones. thanks for everyone's help on this

My 83' wagon has 209,000 miles. It's real bouncy in the front. I replaced the struts just more than a year ago, but it is still bouncy. Should I replace the springs too, and where would I get new ones. I checked with Autozone and Pep boys with no luck. thanks for the help.