revbill
-
Posts
56 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by revbill
-
-
There are holes in the flywheel you can put a "special tool" in (or a screwdriver.) Just keep turning the engine over and you'll see them.
Or you can put the front wheels on the ground and put the car in gear. Or, you can feed some nylon rope into a cylinder through the spark plug hole to keep the piston from moving. And someone else can give you more detail but you can use the starter to bump the motor with a long breaker bar on the bolt, and it'll free it up (I can't remember which side to put it on, so someone else will have to clarify. I'm too chicken to do it this way, and I've never had any trouble just putting the car in gear.)
-
I would check the rotor if you haven't already. I'm sure many hours have been collectively wasted diagnosing spark problems in Subarus because that stupid screw came out. I know it's gotten me before.
-
I had this done a couple of years ago at a place in Kirkland, and I think the price was around $70 for cleaning and resurfacing PER HEAD. This doesn't include pressure testing, either. And since the sympoms of a cracked head are very similar to a bad gasket, you want to be absolutely positive that the head is good before you put the engine back together and put it in the car.
You can also just get rebuilt heads or get some from here that are known to be good. I need to do this again (different car), and I think I'm going to just replace the bad head and put a new gasket on the other one.
-
Samo is selling his Loyale in the marketplace section:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59198
I bought his other old Loyale from him, and it was better than he described. This one looks like it would suit your needs very well, and it's not too far away.
-
You might want to poke around on that "news" site before you cite this as a credible source.
I don't understand why I'm supposed to believe that something with no moving parts that "redirects" air is supposed to do anything but restrict air flow.
I especially like this claim:
"has the capability of transforming an essentially linear but somewhat chaotic airflow into an organized, powerful, vortex-like configuration that literally crams more air into the engine."
So my car would get better mileage if the air flow was less "chaotic"? I barely passed my high school physics class and I can tell this is BS.
-
I think it was a seized bearing or timing belt shredded.
If the bearings in the idler went out, I'm sure they would make a grinding noise (I've never heard it, but I can imagine) and it would shred the belt up, so that sounds possible.
The timing belts are actually pretty easy with some patience and good instructions (and all the help you can get here.) I would do the rotor check and then go from there. If that is what happened, you can get a kit with the tensioners and idler in it so you don't have it happen again, and you can leave the front covers off for easy belt access!
-
Hi
I have a 93 Loyale with about 179K on it. Its in ok condition. Two days ago the "Checkl engine" light came on and scared the hell out of me. I got home ok and the next morning I checked all the fluids (oil, brake, trans, anti-frezze) and everything was fine. The does not appear to be any different sounds coming from the engine either. I do have to admit that its been over a year since I did the last oil change. Could that be the cause? Maybe the oil filter or something simple like that?
Thanks for your help in advance.
David
You can get the info on how to check the codes here:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918&highlight=ecu+codes
I had a similar problem to yours (light went on and off, no noticable performance change) and it was the EGR solenoid, which I promptly ignored.
And it wouldn't hurt to change the oil anyway, since it's been a year.
-
If you can't get a picker (or for future searchers of this thread), the engine is actually pretty light, so you can use other, more shadetree-mechanic ways of getting it out. I used a chain hoist attached by a cable to a tree to pull an engine, and it worked fine. It also had the advantage of making a great photo op of me with the engine hanging from a tree next to my house.
In Keep Your Subaru Alive, the author suggests using a chain attached to a board, and having two guys lift the engine while a third guides it out of the compartment. And I swear people here have said they've pulled engines with another dude by just grabbing a head and lifting.
So, a picker is ideal, but don't let not having access to one stop you from pulling the engine. And it's really not that hard of a job, and then for the rest of your life you can casually talk about the time you took your car's engine out.
-
I dont know about you guys but every time i went in the pap I came out with bulging pockets so instead of ***************ing about it get pproactive and rob them blind. Why not they are to youThis raises an interesting chicken/egg question: do people steal from junkyards because they charge so much, or do they charge so much because people keep stealing from them?
(Edited for spelling.)
-
my camera sucks too....I "borrowed" the image from someone else.Can you post it here, or send it to me if it's too big? I'd like to send it to my dad. I'll send you a PM with my e-mail if that's easier.
-
Those guys were bragging about a Corolla they "heard of" that got 206,000 miles on it.
I just bought a '93 Corolla with 205K on it (it was cheap) and there's no sign of it giving up, and I've had a '97 Prizm for over five years and the only thing that's ever broken on it was the starter contacts.
My '92 Loyale (Samo's "old one" mentioned earlier in this thread) has some sort of head problem (I think it's a crack) but when I get that fixed, it'll pass 200,000 miles soon after. I plan to keep fixing and driving it until it deteriorates around me like in a cartoon.
-
Is your defroster on? The defroster uses the AC to expedite the defogging process on the windsheild.
-
Being from a basically rust-free part of the country, I'm wondering what this is. And Rusty Jones is my dad's name, so the thread title really got my attention!
Can someone explain?
-
Hey!
Is it true there was errors in some Haynes books for loyale generation subaru?
I got codes from ecm that were way not makin sense,according to the book, and just ordered a chilton's for subarus.I was told that there were mistakes in relation to the very problem I encountered. My original Haynes book was stolen (of all things to be kifed!)from the back seat of my unlocked car,:-\ and I would find it comical if above rumor was true.
Has anyone used the professional technician cd's on ebay for subarus? I found some for 10 bucks, makes me curious.
You can find a list of ECM codes by searching either here or Google, and you can download a PDF of the service manual here: http://ww2.finleyweb.net:9394/default.asp?id=142. It's very long, so print it out at work or someone else's house while they aren't paying attention.
I'm not sure what those CDs contain, but what you don't find in the PDF you can find here (the search feature isn't perfect, but once you get the hang of it you can find crazy amounts of information.)
-
This is probably one of those "intent of the law" things that won't really come back to haunt you. If there's any question about it, I would just be honest and tell them why you did it. I can't imagine them really making a big deal out of it for an old car like that.
Plus the only people I've had look at it are the barely-employable people I've run into at the emissions testing places here in Washington, and you could replace it with a post-it note with the number written on it and they probably wouldn't notice.
-
Part new is over $100 and takes a whole 5 minutes to replace...or just get a roll of black electrical tape and do what alot of us doSpeaking of EGR solenoids, does anyone know if the part called the "Purge valve assembly (for EGR valve)" at thepartsbin.com is the right kind of soleniod for the EGR? I think the only difference between the two is the wiring, so I'm wondering if this is what they are talking about.
There is a picture of it here: http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/quote.jsp?make=SU&year=1992&product=B7079-60044&application=000512384&part=Purge%20Valve%20Assembly&category=All&dp=false
-
Maybe this guy's wife is hassling him to get rid of his old cars, so he said "fine, I'll put it on Ebay" and listed it so high nobody would buy it. There's no way he did any research into the value of that car and came up with that price.
-
I'd find another mechanic.
I would, too. Did they even check the timing belts? What makes them think it's a broken cam, of all things?
If you don't need the car right away, you might think about having it towed back to your house so you can think about what to do next, rather than paying a mechanic to poke around semi-randomly at your expense.
And sorry to hear about the credit card thing. It should be cleared up, but it sucks to have to do all that work because someone tried to rip you off (plus we get to pay the interest rates to pay for crap like this.)
-
"the rotor was moving very erratically"
This makes it sound like some of the teeth are missing from the driver's side belt, so it's not turning the distributor right, like it's slipping. As mentioned in another recent post, it could be that the idler bearings are worn and are starting to strip the teeth. And I don't think the belt should be as loose as you described.
It's really not that hard to do the timing belts yourself, so they shouldn't be too expensive to pay someone to do (if they know what they're doing.)
As Subarian said, the best way to see what's going on is to take the covers off so you can see the inside of the belts.
-
If it went away, it could be the road surface is slick and allowing for the tires to slip a bit.
The only things that make it go away is what you said or replacing the clutches.
nipper
Cool, thanks. I mostly wanted to make sure I understood the problem before I looked at the car.
I've since found out that they did replace the tires in the mean time, so that might have been the problem. I'll find out tomorrow when I drive the car.
-
Hey, everyone. I'm a frequent lurker and infrequent poster in the old gen forum, but I'm looking at a '94 Legacy wagon (AT), and I'm a little out of my element.
What I've heard about the car is that there were some torque bind problems on turns, and the FWD fuse made it go away. Then, according to the owner, they took the fuse back out this winter, and the shuddering on turns went away. I'm trying to find out if she replaced the tires in between (I did some research before posting this) and I haven't found out yet.
So my questions for you all are: 1. what could make torque binding go away (besides changing the fluid and tires), 2. can I assume that if I don't see any problems when I test-drive the car the binding has gone away, and 3. what should I look for when I see the car (specific to the transmission worthiness, that is)?
The owner mentioned that a mechanic told her the transmission needed to be overhauled, but I'm not sure if I beleive that, especially if the problem really went away. She did say the mechanic didn't know how to fix transmissions, and other stuff he told her made me think he didn't know how to fix Subarus, either.
I would appreciate any input on this from this part of the USMB universe!
-Bill
-
I've had two, a '92....
And now I have that '92! I drive it to work every day, take it camping a few times a year, and drive my daughter around in it. It's my favorite car ever. I can't believe how reliable it is, considering that it's approaching 200k miles. My daughter is 3 years old, and I keep joking that it'll be her first car.
It's interesting that so many people are mentioning the name as a reason for not liking the Loyale. It is kind of a weird name for a car (not quite as weird as the Probe or the Aspire, but weird.)
-
This link gives you details on how to do this:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/electrical/ecucodes.html
-
I did basically the same thing with a truck, only the day before I was going to move out of an apartment (so I had one weekend to move) they said the truck wasn't available, so I was out of luck. I had to scramble to get a truck so I could move from downtown, which is harrowing enough already.
It's good to hear that you haven't had the same problem renting dollies, though. I might give them another try.
Car will not start!! Need Help
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
If you can start it by popping the clutch, it's probably the starter (solenoid), and not related to excess oil. A dead or dying starter will click like that, no matter how much power the battery has.
And if there was some other problem causing the non-start, it would probably not start when you push-start it.