maozebong

white smoke is 95% of the time is a blown headgasket, if not a intake manifold gasket leak. check for coolant in the oil murky coolant, loss of compression bubbling in the coolant reservoir while running loss of coolant sweet smell by the exhaust other 5% water in fuel lines/tank poor quality fuel cracked block/head

hook up a timing light and see if you are getting spark while cranking. if you are you could have very bad gas still in fuel lines somewhere, possibly water. see if you can get it running by spraying starting fluid in the intake.

i have power at the coil, but from my understanding the coil is grounded by the ecm, upon the pulse of the CAS. at this point in time im going to get the ecu first. if im not even getting a 12v reference from the ecm. if that doesnt work, then crank sensor etc.

i tried getting it started today with both brake cleaner and starting fluid. nothing. mdjdc (or anyone else with an ecu), if you do have an ecu, i have money in hand.

id just take the whole switch. is it really that much more?

sup guys, checked out a lot of stuff today, also 2 pics haha. cleaned the vinyl parts of the interior, fixed the problem with the horn honking randomly and a bunch of other ************. next is vacuuming and steam cleaning the seats, carpet, etc. first pics of what im working with. my distributor does turn. timing belt has to be intact then. all fuses/fusible links OK grounds-just cleaned and good. crank sensor wiring-OK all wires less than .2 ohms from diz plug to ecm plug. spark plugs and wires- questionable, but still wouldnt cause a no spark off the coil. ign switch- OK primary ign- 1ohm secondaryign 10.5k ohms actual voltages at crank sensor with key on, engine off. red-.6v green 1v white 1v black 0v, with less than .2 ohms so now, im 90% sure i have a bad ecm. if anybody who reads this can help me out, i need her runnin asap! ill pay shipping. mdjdc, the numbers are: 22611-AA394 A9 mecf-024 xxxxx-H6

agreed. you would be better off with a reman axle, or a lifetime replacement axle from autozone because they are free replacements LOL if you have camber issues and want to correct it, a small 6 inch level with a magnet built in and stick it to the hub while you adjust the strut top mounts till you get it as close as possible. who said you need an alignment machine to get things straight?

answers in red. can anyone else verify that if the fuel pump is inop, the ecu will kill the ignition?? i just want to be sure before i buy a new ecu. as it stands im not getting any reference volts to the CAS. but i want to check everything else first.

the service manuals can be downloaded from a couple places. try googling "ea81 service manual"

i haven't checked the timing belt, but i also checked at the ecu that i wasnt even getting voltage at the pin to the CAS. i started there because this is how the service manual says to diagnose a no start ignition failiure. could that be because of the timing belt snapped, disty doesnt turn then etc etc. i double checked the coil bracket, and gave it a good scrub with a wire brush. still no go. i also checked that the ecu was recieving power too, and it is. 12.5v.

really? no replies? id figure someone else might have something to say.

ive been working on it all weekend, and i found out i had no spark directly off the coil. i downloaded the service manual and followed the no start procedures. they start you out at the ecu checking available voltage at some pins on the 24p connector. all voltages checked OK there, and then i went to check if i had voltage there. now i wasnt too sure because the pin that supplies 12v to the crank sensor was listed as GB (green,green/blue?) in the service manual and the pin location is identified. but in the connector is a red wire. that wire should have 12v right? well if it was supposed to, it didnt. just to be sure i checked the green wire next to it, and no 12v. in fact, i was only getting .6v at that pin. WTF. so service manual says i need a new ecu, should i get one or is there anything else to check?? btw i have checked the ecu board for burns etc help me out guys, i need this baby running!

id always go with a sock on the end of the fuel pump. its protection for the pump itself and a fuel pump sock doesnt really impede flow that much in the first place.

sup guys, I'm new to the site and subaru's. i'm really excited to tear into my latest project. I got it for 300 bucks. Its in kind of rough shape, the hood is dented up, and front fender has been skated lol. but internally the car is completely good, 4wd is good, and so is the transmission. my buddy who owned it previously said it overheated one day and he parked it, where it has sat for 6 months. he hardly used it anyway because he lives on a college campus and skates everywhere. so the issue is that it didn't start up for me.. i assumed it was bad gas, and drained the fuel lines put in 3 gallons of clean unleaded fuel. no start. so, i took the coil wire off and tested for spark there and got nothing so i'm going to start there. i didn't bring a voltmeter with me so i couldn't say if it had voltage at the coil. i've searched this here and came up with the usual answers fuse 5, 11 fusible link ign relay is there anything else i can do or check for while i am there? the car has been sitting for a while in a gravel lot, and i need to get it running so i don't have to pay a tow truck for 46 miles im all ears for your suggestions and comments