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I drove(TCU disconnected) it around my area without issue where before it would go into 3rd and just slip.

I didn' t do another drain and fill yet but here is what I have for codes - P0733, P0734- Gear 3 and Gear 4 incorrect ratio. I disconnected the TCU and the trans was stuck in 3rd as mentioned and the car went down the road fine - a little sluggish at the start - a bit of slipping. Easy on the gas and it was fine.

I will change again. Pan is not dented. I will check for codes. It will shift fine as mentioned and then when goes to 3rd, it will shift but will slip, tach revs and the trans is not moving the car forward. I will try the TCU as mentioned. Thanks for the quick response.

I've got a transmission that seems to shift fine until it hit 3rd, then it slips. When I bought the car it slipped in most gears, I drained the oil twice thinking they may of mixed the wrong oil in from the diff. After the second time it is much better but still slips as mentioned. So, drain and fill again or take it to a tranny shop to see if the can figure out if she's shot or if it is just a solenoid. Comments,suggestions? Thanks

I cleaned them and put fresh oil in and they all appear to be working normally... right now. Thanks

1996 2.5 DOHC - finishing the head work and decided to bench test the assembly before installing. Installed camshaft on intake side to ensure valve assembly all working. Found that one valve was not closing all the way. Checked the lifter and it would not compress at all. Disassemble and cleaned- compressing but I'm assuming it needs to be bled. What's the best process to bleed them after cleaning? With the year of the car, I'm hoping that cleaning will suffice but need to point out that this car had a broken exhaust valve. I'm assuming that if the lifters stick that there could be issues- no compression or interference? Thanks!

Thanks for all the info! Just curious about the block side of things. I pulled the head with the motor in the car. How is the surface prepped and what would you use to ensure that the surface is good to go to install the new gasket? Thanks!

Newbie on the valve stuff - looking for guidance. This car is a winter beater, so I would prefer to not spend a bunch and use it as a learning project. Take a look at the exhaust valves. They are full of carbon, not sure if they are worth lapping or just buy new and try to lap the seats? I bought Permatex lapping compound and there is mention of different grits to start and finish with. I'm assuming these can be purchase or not needed? The intake valvues look good. Also, recommended solvent to clean them? Thanks! Exhaust seat with some lapping: Intake: Exhuast valves - no lapping and some lapping:

I check the head surface for flatness - it is in spec <.002 . The head gaskets were replaced several years ago by the previous owner. There are some light marks from the previous gasket. Is there a need to resurface it? Do you guys suggest coating the new MLS with Permatex Copper spray? Thanks

Well, guess I'm gonna buy a valve, lap the valves/seats, news guide seals in and let er go. No comments on clean-up for the block side of things? Suggestions for getting the carbon build off? The valves and the top of the pistons look nasty. Thanks

Any idea if the valves in the (96-99)heads would be the same? I know I can pull them out and compare - just curious if anyone would know off the top. Also, what is the recommended prep on the block surface. I use a sharp havy duty razor blade perpendicular to the surface and scraped off the gasket residue and wiped with brake clean. Do I need to use scotch brite or something similar? Thanks

The reason I am doing this is the old heads from the 96 have bad valves - one burnt off or it is missing a chunk. No compression is the result. So, I have the 99 heads which were already machined, just trying to save some money. If I use the old head, I'm assuming it would need to get it machined plus have do the the valves. If I do the valves I'm assuming I would need to have the seats lapped or what ever they do to match the new valves? Any advice would be appreciated. Based on the two responses, I'm not sure if I should use the 99 head. Thanks!

Will the heads from a 1999 Legacy Anniversary Edition work on a 1996 Legacy Outback Wagon? They look the same but the plug wire port shape is different on the 99 so hence the question. Thanks

Just checked #3 and there is no compression. So valve not seating I'm assuming? Checked 1 and it is around 135, dry, cold engine, throttle closed. I just checked #1 because I couldn't believe that #3 was 0. I checked #3 twice now.

1996 2.5 DOHC The plug in 3 looked okay, a little darker color that the other 3- the engine uses a bit of oil. New NGK plugs and plug wires - still rough idle and code set Swapped fuel injectors from 1 to 3 - same issue Swapped injector wires on 1 and 3 - same issue I'm going to check the coil resistance - I doubt this is an issue. I'm going to check compression on 3. If the timing is off, how much effect would it have on compression and would this cause the misfire error? Suggestions? Thanks all!

Yea, I figured to separate and install. I received them trans/motor as one from a auto recycler. I wasn't too happy to see a left strap on the intake. I will check the intake bolts but why that when there are lift points on the motor? I was reading some folks pull them that way?

Feedback on installing the motor/trans bolted together? I have help but was thinking the car may need to be higher on the stands which could be an issue for the hoist that I have. Thanks

Here's where I'm at with this. Changed fluid twice with the filter being changed on the second round. Shifts great(even reverse) except going from 3rd to 4th. If you rev it, it will shift sometimes. If it slips, all will slip until going to neutral then back to drive. Not sure if I should wave the white flag or if there are any other ideas. I'm assuming TransX will not do anything for it. Did throw a code for Gear 3 incorrect ratio. Comments? Thanks!

@grossgary - thanks for all the info. I will be looking for what you have mentioned.

@Lucky Texan The cooler is built into the radiator. It is a new radiator, but I bypassed it anyway just to take that variable out of the loop. The fluid looks dark still. I think if I change the trans fluid again and it is still acting up, it's gonna come out. I have to say it is way better so I'm going to take the change fluid route first. @ccrinc I'm not sure about the torque converter but thanks for bringing that up. Any way to test it ? Here's another little wrinkle to add - the guy thought there was a head gasket issue but there was no overheating. However, he was blowing radiator hoses. He was told by someone? that they thought the cooling system was getting pressurized by a cylinder leak going into a cooling passage. I checked the oil and it is clean. The antifreeze looks fine. I felt the hoses and they feel like the are under more pressure than normal, but assumed that the rad cap would pop. I thought that the 3.0 was not a victim of the head gasket problem? Thanks all!

Pan looks fine visually, I could put a straight edge to it I guess. Yes, checking fluid when hot, idling, on level surface. I will change the fluid again @grossgary. Any feedback as far as changing solenoids or is it much more complicated than that. I can find trannys for around 500 for this car. I would mind digging into the valve body if someone could give me a bit more guidance. I have a reader but doubt that it can read all the trans goodies. The car is in awesome shape so I'm gonna get it going one way or another - love subies I guess. Thanks for giving me ideas and help - I'm going to keep plugin away.

Changed fluid and initially it was much better. Going from second to third however it would slip. Then all would slip. If I went to neutral, then back to drive or 1,2 it would be find again. I think it may be a delayed shift issue. I'm going to add TransX. Could I just change out solenoids on the valve body or the valve body itself or could it be something else? Thanks

Delayed engagement or no engagment, reverse works perfect. Drained the trans fluid - bright red but smells burnt. Should I add Trans -X on the refill or hold off? Should the filter be replaced at this time? If it still slips forward, is it related to the valve body or other parts? Is there some additional testing I could do? I can change out the trans if needed with a lower mileage used one if needed. Thanks!

Yes, just picked up the car. The radiator and all but one hose was replaced. That hose(lower) blew out on me as I was running it to see so I replaced it. I thought that if the cooling system was being pressurized by and HG leak, that the rad cap would release the pressure as mentioned. I'm not sure if there is a head gasket issue but there is a black sticky substance on the tube in the overflow tank. I've ran the car with no overheating thus far. On the trans side of things, it slips initially going into gear and then "grabs". If you over accelerate, it slips. Reverse works as it should. Folks have mentioned to check trans pan for dents which I did-looks perfect. It was mentioned to check for overfill, and drain and refill. Then recheck. Feel free to send any other ideas or suggestions. Thanks!

I've worked on several subie motors and found this in a 1999 2.5. I was a white substance that didn't work and plugged some of the coolant ports in the heads. Unless it was a different product.