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Giraffe Attack

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About Giraffe Attack

  • Birthday 02/07/1982

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bellingham, WA
  • Occupation
    Wrecking Yard Manager
  • Vehicles
    97 Legacy RHD GTB 2.0L-TT

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  1. Hi there, how are you? I'm ABOUT to put my '97 Legacy DOHC heads onto an 01 or 02 SOHC block. I noticed that you made a comment about doing the same thing. (It is like the 6th reply when you good "EJ25 dohc heads on sohc block").

    I was wondering if you can remember any other issues, or little things that you had to mess with when you did this swap.

    Are you on Facebook?

    Thank you.

  2. I am in need of wiring help and hope you can help. I see you have access to the wiring for my 2000 Legacy L. I just bought a 2003 Legacy L door to replace a dented one but the connector is different between the two doors. The wire colors were the same so I connected each to the same colors. When I pushed the door locks as a first test I blew out a fuse! I haven't tried the window yet because I'm scared I'll do more damage. Can you tell me what color goes to what? It's the right rear door. Thanks for any help!!!!!

  3. Sweet, thanks for the info. I've been playing with a 2 stage electronic boost controller to help regulate the second turbo. It's been a great motor so far, and I've had a blast to drive. I run 92 octane with octane boost and when I get above 5200 rpm, and mash the gas, it detonates, but has ZERO problems when I run 98+. As long as it doesn't ************ the bed while I'm driving to a race, I'm happy.
  4. Ok, here's a brief update. After 2 races and daily driving it for a little while, I've discovered that it is the second most expensive vehicle to put fuel in that I've ever owned. I found out from an Australian friend of mine that I need to run 98 or better octane to avoid detonation. 98 octane is about $4.50-$5 a gallon where I live and at roughly 12-14 miles per gallon with a lead foot, I feel that I'm never going to be able to retire if I keep this as a daily driver. It's damn fun to drive though! Here's a couple more pics after the paint and decal work was finished:
  5. Done and Racing! Went to an Autocross yesterday to see how we did. Worked a solid 24 hours to finish. did one lap around the block, and the straight to the race. Place 10th out of 11. so not that great, but not last. It's a trip trying to learn right hand drive.
  6. I have access to wiring diagrams and brain/plug pin-outs and function descriptions. can get most wiring and mechanical specs from 1985-2010. Let me know what you need. Brandon-
  7. A 2.5 block with 2.2 heads is a great start. I did a 2.5l SOHC '01 legacy block with 2.5l DOHC 97 legacy heads. worked out nicely. can give details if interested. if you need a hand, let me know.
  8. Body: 1997 Legacy L Wagon Engine: JDM EJ20h Twin Turbo Trans: JDM 4spd Auto with electronic locker (will be swapping out for WRX 5spd) Rear Diff: 4.11 with Limited-Slip Susp: H&R Progressive rate lowering springs on Tokico struts Exhaust: Modified HKS 3" cat-back with resonator from Lancer EVO VIII Interior: RHD swap without airbags, and soon a Rally-America approved cage Exterior: JDM BG projector headlights and fog lights, JDM BG side skirts, and JDM Zero inner-structure bumpers (about 60lbs lighter total). Lots of other mods on the way. Build thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114519
  9. I got the clip from Mac1 Exports in Japan. I had it delivered with a load of parts that my company ordered in a container. Here's the first video of it running (sorry for the poor quality video, only had my cell phone handy): http://www.facebook.com/v/1607395502790 and revving: http://www.facebook.com/v/1607392462714 It runs awesome. I missed out on a few races, but will be racing in an autocross on the 18th to get used to the right-hand-drive. Body work is almost done, then it's time for paint.
  10. well, got the whole front end done. all suspension built in the front. all wiring and coolant/trans lines done. the front end sits VERY low to the ground. started assembling the rear suspension. removed the old rusty suspension with a grinder. removed rear diff, and installed new rear diff with a locker. did all the rust repair at the windshield opening, and the quarters. removed the roof rack and antenna for a more streamlined look. will finish the paint prep and bodywork this week. it's almost done. Hopefully ready for a rally on Sept. 11th.
  11. Dash is painted and now matches the rest of my interior. P.S. I'm painting the whole car Battleship Gray with matte black wheels, spoiler, and hood scoop.
  12. You might have an injector stuck open/faulty wiring to the ECU allowing the injector to hang open after you turn the key off. Had a similar issue before on a mazda swap. Just my .02
  13. Wiring all done! Spliced 56 wires. Very time consuming. My JDM harness was cut in two places so I had to merge 3 wiring harnesses together. All the extra wires are now removed from the USDM plugs. Won't be needing power heated seats and sunroof controls or any other crap. Just the basics. Good news is that I have all of the wiring diagrams saved as .gif files for anyone interested. I'm going to be glad when this project is complete, and I can just go fast.
  14. Yeah, it's kinda hard to get cheap horsepower around here. I'm into the whole project for $1000us total. That includes all my paint/body filler material, whole nose from japan, and the car. My wife is mad that I didn't do the swap in her car. Oh well.
  15. Yes, it does run! I'm adding a 3" exhaust early next week then water-meth injection, and having some tuning done after that. (Looking for about 300hp) car is on blocks right now while i'm building suspension and getting rear diff done. After that, it's going to be time for body and paint work, then sponsor decals. Hopefully be ready for a couple races at the end of august.
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