pianobrooks

Thanks all, the converter itself isn't bad - think in the context of ongoing underbody corrosion resulting from road salt. The flanges at the connection points have rusted apart for the 2nd cat, the resonator, and the muffler. Standard stuff in central NY state. It's taken me a while to get used to this after moving here. I was in Seattle before and you could use the same cat forever... here it is a different story. Kind of a waste of the platinum and other precious metals in the catalyst! But as far as I can tell, there is no alternative approach. Probably should wash the underbody of our cars more often though, esp during winter, haha. Thanks for the responses, I'm glad to know the OE cat is worth the expense.

Hi all, I usually post about my '91 Loyale in the other forum, but I'm helping a friend consider exhaust repair options for her 2011 Impreza wagon. Her mechanic (who I often use myself and generally trust) tells me that for the cat converter (middle one, between the front cat and the resonator), they would only be willing to install a Subaru OE converter if they did the work. They said they have had problems with all of the aftermarket cat converters, for example issues with the CEL being triggered by the O2 sensor. It's not typical of this mechanic to insist on OE, so I think they might be onto something. But I wanted to check what the experiences of people on this forum has been. Note: we're in upstate NY where there is plenty of salt corrosion on vehicles. Thanks for your help! - Brooks

Also, Amazon says this is the one that fits my '91 Loyale 4WD: http://amzn.com/B00449IBSQ . If correct, it would be the first time in my experience that Amazon has been correct about an auto part fit while the manufacturer's website was incorrect.

I'm bumping this old thread because it will be useful to me when I tackle my first clutch job on my '91 Loyale 4WD. I'd like to get the Exedy kit but when I use their website I only get the 200mm kit for the 2WD vehicle. Anyone know what the Exedy part number is for the correct kit for the 4WD vehicle? Or how to use their website to find it? Thanks ~ - Brooks

Aha, thanks Idasho. Sometimes just knowing the right word to ask for can make all the difference. . .

I need to replace the rear wheel bearings in my 4WD '91 Loyale wagon sometime soon, so I'm ordering the parts today. When I did one of the front bearings last summer, I reused the original spring pin when I reconnected the inner CV joint to the differential, although my trusty Haynes manual said to "be sure to use a new spring pin." Since I didn't *have* a new spring pin, I used the old one and it seems to have stayed put. For the rear wheel bearings, I'm actually planning ahead instead of waiting for the bearing to fall apart (whoa!). So if I can find a source for new spring pins (apparently with the rear driveaxle, there are spring pins at both the inner CV and outer CV joints). Anyone know where these spring pins can be acquired one their own, without buying a replacement half shaft assembly? Because in the words of my wise companion Haynes, "be sure to use new spring pins." Thanks for any pointers you can offer. - Brooks

In my EA82 I'm changing the timing belts and front engine seals for the first time (well, my first time. . .they were changed 60k miles ago by my mechanic). Getting the sprockets off the crankshaft in order to change the crankshaft seal proved difficult. . . and I busted off a bit of the flange on the inner sprocket. See attached photos. Can I please reuse it anyway? I would hate to have to find a replacement, mostly because I really wanted to get the engine put back together this weekend. But, if you think it risky, because maybe the broken spot will wear on the edge of the timing belt in a bad way, then please warn me now. I would appreciate hearing opinions on this. Thanks guys! - Brooks

Thanks to all of you for your replies - they are very helpful. I had never heard of helicoils, so I am glad to know that option exists. I'm going to proceed as grossgary suggests, chasing the threads and then using longer bolts. If that doesn't hold then I'll go to the helicoils.

HI all, I don't post here often but have learned a *ton* from reading the archives. You guys are an amazing resource. I'm currently further into my '91 Loyale EA82 engine than I've ever been before; to replace the timing belts, idler pulley, and tensioners, plus the front engine seals. WIth the help of my Haynes manual and Miles Fox's videos, I'm doing great so far. Also the water pump. My Loyale just hit 180k. My problem today is with the camshaft seals. I unbolted the seal retainers, took them out and replaced the seals and the o-rings, just as Miles demonstrated so nicely in one of his videos. However, when I bolted the seal retainers back in, the bolts were hardly tight at all, but then started spinning freely. Three of the four bolts did this; the fourth bolt was actually a bit longer than the other three. We suspect that the mechanic who replaced the cam seals at 120k may have had a problem with one of the bolts spinning in place and therefore used a slightly longer bolt to solve the problem at that time. I guess what has happened is that the threads on the engine side (aluminum) have stripped away, but that the bolt threads (steel) are still intact. What to do to solve this problem? Should I try to retap the threads that these bolts go into (and if so, do I go with larger diameter bolt size?), or first simply try using longer bolts that match the length of the one (longer) bolt I have already, that is also the only bolt that will tighten correctly? Partly it depends whether there is room (and threads) in there for a longer bolt in the first place. I imagine someone on this forum has had this problem. . . and can perhaps offer a solution. On the one hand I'm feeling super proud to have taught myself all this stuff and to have successfully dug this far into the engine. On the other hand I'm worried that if I can't get the cam seal retainers in tightly, then I could have serious problems. . . *Many* thanks in advance ~ - Brooks

I can definitely recommend Carl's Foreign Car Service, near UVillage. It's a great shop, same three mechanics the whole time I've gone there (since 2002). EA82 rebuilds used to be their bread and butter; they haven't done one in awhile but definitely have it dialed in.

I have a '91 Loyale with 150k miles, and I'm a novice auto mechanic. Sometimes it is difficult to shift the manual transmission into reverse. This is an issue whether the car is running or not. It used to happen rarely, but has been occurring with increasing frequency lately. Usually moving the shifter in and out of some of the other gears and then coming back to reverse helps to solve the problem. But sometimes it can take several minutes of fiddling to finally get it into reverse. Is this likely a problem within the gearbox itself, or something in the linkage that I might be able to investigate on my own? I'm worried that if it continues to get worse I will eventually end up in a situation where I won't be able to get into reverse at all? Thanks in advance for replies.