toddkageals

I have a '96 Outback, 2.5L. I can't find any information in the Haynes or the Factory Manual (I bought a CD copy on ebay...disappointed in it) on the hydraulic valve lifters. I found info on the 2.2 with rocker arms and hydraulic lifters but not the 2.5 type. Basically, I have 3 lifters on which I can press the plunger on the inside of the lifter and oil will squirt out of the hole on the side of the lifter. On the other 5 (only one head is out right now), the plunger is rock solid. I tried submerging the three in oil and pumping the piston to fill them up but it does not change anything. Anybody know anything about this type of lifter? Which ones are bad? Will they work once they are under pressure? Thanks for the help. Todd

Thanks Skip and Snot. Let me know if you come across anything. I emailed the folks at that link Skip, we'll see what they can do. Thanks, Todd

Well....If I could find one, I probably would. I can't find anything here locally. If you have any contact information for a place that would send a block, I'd really appreciate it if you could send it to me. Thanks, Todd

Just another though on this. Does anyone know if it's possible to weld the crack and macine the surface? My machinist father says so but it's a lot of labor if that does not work. Todd

Guys, I finally had time to tear down the engine in my '96 Outback (2.5L) today. I bought it from a guy who said that it had a blown head gasket. Well...when I tore it down I found a relatively large crack in the cylinder wall going straight through to the water jacket. Anybody have (or know where I can find) a block fairly cheaply????. I really didn't want to purchase an entire engine for the car. Thanks, Todd

Well....it's out....thanks for all the help guys (now for the hard part..rebuilding). From What I can remember there are 6 bolts/nuts that have to be removed (two bolts on top, two nuts on the bottom, and two bolts that hold the starter on). I had not seen one of the nuts on the bottom and that's why I could not get them apart, once removed it separated without too much encouragement from me. On my '96 there are 4 bolts on the flexplate that have to be removed. I've never done an automatic before....very lucky that someone mentioned the flex plate (I think Subaru calls it a drive plate) bolts or I would have probably torn it all to hell trying to get it apart. Sad part is, I have a manual but didn't read it thoroughly! Thanks again for the help. I'm sure I'll be back in the near future for more tear down/rebuild help. While I'm here, anybody have any tips for accessing that bottom left nut on the engine/bellhousing? I had a hell of a time getting a wrench first, and then getting force on the wrech, on that nut. Todd

It's an automatic. This is the first auto that I have worked on...all my other cars have been manual transmissions. I have only unbolted the things listed. Where is the "flex plate"? Thanks, Todd

I am pulling the engine on my '96 Outback to replace the head gaskets and other seals (blown head gasket). I THINK I have removed all of the bolts that should be holding it in the car but it still won't budge (have not really tried to get it out yet (that's for tomorrow) but it won't move at all. I'm not sure I got all the bolts out. There is alot of oil obscuring some of the mounting points. I removed the two nuts from below on the engine mounts, the two bolts/nuts on the bellhousing on the passenger side and the two bolts that hold the starter on. Is there anything else (obviously I have removed the radiator, all hoses, wires etc.) that is holding the engine in the car??? Thanks for the help. Todd

Not only that....as it turns out, there are two very large tags on the battery cables that state that the car has keyless entry and give instructions on how to reset it if the battery is disconnected. This car is equipped with keyless entry, just no remotes. Thanks for the help. Thanks, Todd

I'll take both of them (or one if that's all you can find). Email me at toddkageals@cox.net . THanks a bunch. Todd

I'm going to tackle this myself in about a week on my '96. PLEASE let me know how it goes. Hints, tips, etc. are much appreciated. Todd

The key will not go into the lock, almost like there is a broken key in the lock. The battery is dead. I'll try unlocking the doors to see if it will open the hatch lock after I charge the battery. For those with power locks on a '96, do you have keyless entry? I'm asking if it was possible to get a '96 with power locks and without keyless entry. Thanks, Todd

Guys, I just got a '96 Legacy Outback from an auto auction. It only has 1 key and no remotes. It does have power locks but I don't have any way of know if it is supposed to have keyless entry. Anybody know if it was standard on the '96? If not, anyone know how to tell if it has keyless entry? Mainly I need to know because I can't get the key into the hatch, feels like something in there is blocking it. So...as far as I know there is no way to open the hatch without the key (is that right...no inside release)? Thanks, Todd

I've never heard of a knock sensor that is designed to detect a worn lower end. Most knock sensors detect engine knock that is caused by lower grade gasoline. When "knock" is detected, the computer usually responds by retarding the ignion timing. If the knock sensor is throwing a code, it usually means that the sensor is "out of range". So....AFAIK, the code is for a bad sensor, not for the knock that you are hearing. Now....the knocking noise you hear is not good regardless of what that sensor is doing. It might be piston slap or worn bearings both of which require a rebuild to fix. If it were me, I would replace that sensor and just keep driving it with the knock. You might try a thicker oil, it may quiet it a bit. Good Luck. Todd

Thanks for the information. Would I still get the 10 extra HP using the '96 manifolds and electronics. The only reasons to do the swap were the HP increase and especially the requirement for regular gasoline. Do you know what the '96 - '97 difference is? Lower compression, different heads, etc.? Thanks, Todd

Guys, I want to swap a '97 engine into my '96 Outback. The current '96 engine has a blown head gasket and who knows what else....I bought it like that. I read that the '97 uses regular gas as opposed to the '96 using premium and that the '97 makes 10 more horespower. Now my question......what's the difference in the engines? Can I just get a long block (no manifolds, fuel system, electronics) or do I need the whole thing? The complete engines are far more expensive...at least the ones I have found on-line. Todd

Well....what would be required to do that in a '96? Todd

Guys, Instead of replacing the head gasket on my '96 Outback I've been considering swapping in a used '97 engine (IIRC 10 more HP, and regular gas). My question, if I get a complete engine, what else do I need? Computer, wiring, etc.? Thanks, Todd

Hello, This is my first post here. I have been active on the BMW (have a 2000 328i) and Mazda (HAD an RX7 Turbo) boards. I am buying a 1996 Outback that has a blown head gasket but is in otherwise excellent condition. Is there any info. around about changing the head gaskets? I've done rebuilds on other engines so this is something that I should be able to handle myself but I have never done anything on a Subaru. Thanks in advance for the help. Todd