89Ru
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Posts posted by 89Ru
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Gloyale: You caught me. Here's the earlier version from 1992. ALT-1 circuit is the same as you said.
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yes, disconnect from the alternator and run a wire to the (-) battery terminal.
my diagram shows a black/white wire for some reason for the ALT-1 wire at the alternator connector. solid white wire is tied to ALT output, don't use that wire.
with ignition on (car not running) you should have 12 volts on that wire before grounding it. if you don't, there are problems upstream. in that case, check SBF's 3,4,5 in the main fuse box under the hood.
this will test a few things.
1. battery is supplying voltage via fuse #15 to the charge lamp in the dash
2. charge lamp and wiring is good all the way to the alternator
3. 45 amp fuses are good upstream towards the battery
these drawings are from 1997 EJ but the ALT-1 wire colors are the same as 1992.
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Dave: Open the pod bay doors, HAL.
HAL: I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.
Assuming all your doors locked. On my 95 lego the driver's side lock lever sometimes short circuits and locks all the other doors, but the DS stays unlocked. Its never happened but if the DS was locked and another door was unlocked I suppose I could be screwed if the short happened. Sometimes I can wiggle the DS lock and cause it to happen. I think taking the DS lock apart might reveal a flaky component.
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welcome to the board.
vibrations can be tricky. can you locate it? any noise with it?
drums in the rear or rotors all around?
any change with braking?
sometimes a brake can hang up and overheat the rotor, causing a warp. brake might smell like its burning.
handheld IR temp gun can help troubleshoot this or just feel the rotor.
still could be a tire. missing weight?
any movement with it?
recent posts have been about suspension oddities in the rear.
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burnt out bulb.
Won't charge properly without it for field.
Didn't know that. Looking through wiring diagrams from 1992 legacy. Alternator charge output and battery positive are connected through fusible link. ALT-1 trace goes from the alternator to the dash CHARGE lamp and is fused to battery via the ignition switch. This makes sense, there is feedback to perhaps regulate the battery charging rate. So if the bulb is burned out no alternator output. Is this the same for newer designs? There is also an ALT-2 trace that goes...not sure where.
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what are you driving?
sounds like you are on the second alternator already. aftermarket alternator? search the board for a subaru remanufactured alternator if you need to replace it again.
should be a direct connection to the battery from the alternator (through a fusible link). you can check voltages at the alternator also.
how new is the battery? if more than 5-6 years replace it. problems with the battery could lead to alternator failures.
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You can rev it and it will run - its getting fuel ok. Its just when you try to get it to do much else..
so it will start, idle, increase rpm at idle, shift into gear, then stall under load (no power). correct?
how does it sound during above events? idle rpm? rough idle? do you have to hold the throttle to keep it running?
common things occur commonly, its likely to be a hose as already said. there are hoses underneath the main air intake that like to pop off if flexed. any electrical connectors removed? the resonator on the air intake likes to pop off (the odd-angled go-nowhere tube).
other things it could be but most likely isn't
fuel filter
timing
exhaust restriction
fuel pump
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When you put it back together dig up the original bolt and use that instead.
or use bolts from the boneyard
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I can't speak for iridiums. Perhaps they are better than platinums. I have not been impressed with platinum plugs in the EJ22 (not OEM) OR double platinums in the EJ25D (OEM). They wear unevenly and after 80km they should be inspected if not sooner. I have seen coppers go 120km and still be evenly worn (EJ22). I think the advice I have been given to stick with copper makes sense, they are cheap and just replace them after 50km. Several recent posts on this subject. Yes all these mileages are in km's not miles. Its been a while since I have seen the southern cross...hope to get back in the southern hemisphere soon.
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it does sound like its coming from under the tb covers, a hollow sound.
Put your hand on the outer tb covers, see if you can feel where the vibration is biggest, then dive under the cover and take a look. if the noise follows the belt, it may go away once the covers are off. if the noise is a piece of belt flaying off, you'll see it while one cover is off while running. or just spin the crankshaft (22 mm bolt) with the car in neutral. removing accessory belt covers make it easier to do this. some cars have small ports in the covers that can be taken off to see the belt.
outer tb covers come off with three bolts each, 10 mm socket. take them off slowly, they can seize and spin out the captive nut in the rear cover. center tb cover takes more work (crank pulley has to come off).
how many miles since the tb was replaced?
assuming there is no rubbing on the accessory belt covers? (which can be taken off and kept off by removing 10 mm bolts plus one 12 mm on the alternator)
alt and p/s belt are tensioned by the alternator pivoting (separate bolt).
a/c belt is tensioned by the pulley next to the crank pulley.
both belts are independent and driven by the crank
if you suspect the a/c clutch, you could cut the a/c belt off.
if the a/c belt fails, its not a big deal unless the alt and p/s belt get hung up by a loose belt flopping around...
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I always go in from the top. Remove the airbox on the pass side. I can usually squeeze past the battery, depending on its size(otherwise you might need to remove it). Also, I use a standard spark plug socket(with the rubber insert) and a small extension(4" I think) to remove/insert the plugs with my fingers doing the turning to start them.
I removed the rubber boot in the spark plug socket and taped the bits together. Easy to wiggle down onto the plug and no worries about leaving any bits behind to fish out. Next time I think I'll keep the rubber insert in...left the plug a couple of times when it was almost all the way out (preventing the assembly from being wiggled back into the hole) and then had to untape, disassemble, and then insert pieces and reassemble in the hole...need the hands of a surgeon to do that well rather than my stiff thumbs.
spark plug socket --> universal --> 1.5" extension --> driver = 5.7"
just enough the clear the head.
One good reason for doing the job from the top. Cold stiff hands drop stuff, no big deal. Dropped wrenches underneath can land on your...face
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I`ve run mismatched (hotter) plugs to combat oil fouling more times than I care to recall
that could explain it but it doesn't appear to be oil fouled.
forgot to mention this is a JDM engine so its probably got 100k on the clock by now. I'm going to replace the plug wires, two of the jackets have nicks but it doesn't look like any burn through.
here's a pic, sorry for being confusing about the arcing issue.
top to bottom cylinders are 3,1,2,4. cylinder 1 plug seems to be arcing on the insulator?
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Well #4 was a pain to get out from underneath.
#2 and #4 are both NGK PFR6B-11.
#4 gap 1.7mm severely worn center electrode
#2 gap 1.2mm
rain tomorrow, have to get this done.
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'97 outback EJ25D, 220k miles (edit: 100k on jdm engine)
guess at around 50k miles since last plug change.
Figured it was time to take a look at plugs. Pulled #1 and #3. They are different...
#1 PFR6B11
#3 BKR5EGP
Not only are the plugs different, note different heat range (#1 has the '6' hotness and has buildup on the ceramic)...they are fairly equally gapped to around 1.4-1.5mm
Anyone running mismatched plugs to maybe deal with the wasted spark uneven wear on platinum plugs?
When I first bought the car it had misfires that got worse when it was wet and going down hills with no throttle at highway speeds. Haven't had a misfire in a while. #1 plug socket on the coilpack is pretty corroded (carbon arc damage) but the metal contact seems fine.
Edit: Misfires may be phantoms...car doesn't stumble, the only way to tell is the CEL.
#1 plug has arc damage on the ceramic insulator. This might mean a new set of plug wires or will a dab of dielectric grease help this?
BTW it isn't too bad to get these plugs out from underneath with the front end jacked up. For installation I think I'll try feeding them in snugged on a scrap 5/16" fuel line.
My owner's manual says to use PFR5B-11. I have a set on hand. I think running hotter plugs will clear the buildup on the #1 plug and may help the misfire issues.
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Well this is turning out to be a hijack of my own thread.
Run an Auto-RX treatment rather than any more Seafoam...I had similar or even better results with it in my '91 XT6 with low compression than what you're seeing with SeafoamThanks for the idea. Engine is currently being treated with second seafoam treatment in the crankcase. I'm driving it around this time keeping rpm's low, have about 60 miles so far. Results have been, well....inconclusive. Rough idle comes and goes which I presume means I'm losing compression again in #4.
Today I tried seafoam in the intake through the PCV valve. There sure is a lot of conflicting information on youtube how to do this. Don't use the brake booster hose, car runs like crap with this disconnected and flow appears to favor #4 cylinder (might be good for crud in #4?) but first time I would rather balance out the cleaning for all four. Maybe this vacuum plumbing has something to do with #4 having issues...cylinder runs at a different temperature and crud builds up? doubtful otherwise it would be more common...
whether right or wrong, here's my procedure:
measure 1/3 can of seafoam, nicely fits into a clean 5.5 oz. cat food can
with engine warm, running, disconnect pcv hose
attach old heater bypass hose to pcv with funnel
increase rpm to 1500 while SLOWLY pouring seafoam into funnel
(first time I dribbled a little into the funnel at idle, engine quit hence the increased rpm, hydrolocked? started right up though...)
smoke should appear from TP
shut engine off for 5 min
restart and run at 1500 or so until tailpipe blows clear
intake treatment did not improve idle, in fact, when running at 1500 unloaded something seems to slightly labor the engine by a couple hundred rpm every few seconds.
I'll look into the auto-rx. its good to have options. haven't tried MMO yet either.
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Change the oil and do it again?
Naah, I think I'll dump a can of red bull in there and see what happens. Going to change my name to Inspector Clusoe.
Just kidding, I think another round of seafoam is in order
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I kinda wonder if the rings are just stuck. Some MMO or Seafoam in the oil as a cleaner could free them up
Idled for 2 hours in the driveway with 1/2 a can of seafoam in the oil. New compression (done cold) numbers are:
before --> after seafoam
1: 200 --> 200
2: 180 --> 185
3: 205 --> 205
4: 90 --> 160
Starting is back to normal, without the periodic skipping cough. Idle smoothed out a LOT after 30 minutes at idle and after 2 hours seems normal. Hard to believe (that's my Eeyore coming out). Going to run it some more and then change oil.
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welp the good news is.... after looking in the proper light the links were not blown, when i got out of the car i accidently hit the idiot switch (parking lights) drew the batt down to NOTHING quick jump back on the road again, thnx everyone
ahh...the subaru virgin switch, no worries, we've all done it
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Besides what you posted, what else have you tried? Any downstream fuses blown? Check ground straps. Assuming your battery is good and you have voltage after SBF 3,4,5. Do you have a wiring diagram? Check main relay. Any smell of burnt electronics?
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Did a leak down test at 15 psi.
Firing order 1-3-2-4
Crank position is 180 degrees (half turn) between cylinder TDC's.
Wasn't exactly sure where TDC was but was pretty close, had to hold the crank otherwise the pressure would rotate the shaft. Cylinders 1,2,3 held pressure but 4 didn't. #4 hissed constantly (where I don't exactly know but I didn't hear it at the tailpipe). Varying the crank position +/- 45 degrees around where I thought TDC was but never sealed up the #4 cylinder. 1/4 turn CW caused the hissing to turn into bubbling but nothing in the overflow tank. Never done this before but I think the results show that my #4 valve(s) are burnt from running with bad rings for uggh...years
Here's the platinum spark plugs, #4 on right after 45k miles. Being ignorant I would call it ash fouling but with the symptoms now it must be oil fouling, or maybe both.
Oil consumption is probably 1 quart every 750-1000 miles and I ran it down 1-2 quarts several times over the past few years. Not sure why just one cylinder would have bad rings. I did the oil pump reseal years ago and have done oil changes every 3-5k. Given its condition I'm happy I got 80k out of it, was hoping for 120k more but still, running on bad rings for this long I'd buy another one today.
What are some options? Its a third car but I don't have the skills to rebuild it. I'm leaning towards parting it out or selling it cheap to a rebuilder. How long would it run before the valves are so bad it won't start?
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By now the Toddler is starting to whine about freezing to death
Sounds like conditioning the Toddler for winter.
I use a fuel additive (Startron) esp. during the wintertime. It greatly increases the miscibility of the fuel-alcohol-water mix. It also aids significantly its combustability and adds a few extra HP, to bootJust changed out two fuel filters and the contents that came out of the filters separated overnight into two layers, a slightly cloudy yellow layer on top (presume dirty gas) and about 15-20 cc's of bottom layer that was black-tinged (presuming ethanol laced with fuel-line rubber). Both burn. The bottom layer burned clean and the top layer burned with thick black smoke leaving black residue on the metal can. The bottom layer at the very end of its burn spattered and sizzled, perhaps that was water dissolved in the ethanol being boiled off. Seems like without an additive these layers are present in settled fuel after just one night of settling. They probably mix in the fuel filter when fuel is flowing though. I habitually don't run the fuel tank down to fumes...will try to do that.
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my 95 legacy wagon makes the same sound when the key is turned two positions forward.
seems to be loudest under the intake manifold, passenger side but it could be sound being focused from another location and just appearing to be loudest there. it doesn't seem to be the coilpack, mine is disconnected.
if i take the key out the buzzing continues for a few minutes (while capacitors are draining off?) and then suddenly quiet.
there are a few large connectors underneath the intake. maybe try disconnecting one at a time to isolate it. any dash lights?
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was fuel still being pumped in from the injectors? or id that injector stuck open w;ever?
could be cylinder wash-down from too much fuel. Of course, could be some other/worse things - just suggesting something kinda hopeful.
If the compression fitting comes out dry with injectors unplugged, I guess that means no fuel got into the cylinder...I'm being schooled on this so I appreciate all help and a little hope is what this car needs now, and a good wrench-turner.
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Do a wet test on number 4 and see if the number comes up any. If it comes up the rings are worn. Hard to imagine the rings being that worn and not using a LOT of oil between changes
Repeated the dry test just for grins...just shy of 100
Squirted 10 cc's of oil into #4
compression jumped up to 165...by jove its...rings
It does use oil, maybe 2 quarts between changes, thought it might be the plastic oil separator plate but now that I think of it, if it sits for a while (few weeks) it smokes when it starts up. It did that when we bought it 80k miles ago. Tailpipe was black with soot but the mechanic I had check it out said it was 'running rich' and that was a good thing..maybe the next car we consider gets a compression check before any cash parts hands if things look odd. Maybe its always idled a little rough...it has used oil ever since we bought it.
You have done a fabulous job of diagnosing this machine unseen with only a partial story, my hats off
poor little ej22
, our 2nd subaru (wife's car at first but now she drives a fun little OBS)
baja power steering help
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
http://opposedforces.com
you can find all subarus that use your pump