Scotty1419

This is exactly what mine is doing.. did you ever figure out why it keeps burning up there? and also where you got your connector at?? thanks

Hi guys, been a while since ive been here.. Anywhoo, my subaru has been having fuel pump issues so I pulled it out today and found out that one of the harness connectors that plugs in to the bottom of the fuel pump harness connector on the inside of the tank side was burnt. I have been looking all over the internet and I cant find that harness connector anywhere to replace it. does anyone know where I can find one or if there is a way I can just repair the one I got? Its pretty bad but It still plugs in. Thanks alot! Scott

well my fuel pump stopped working so the car was sittin for a couple weeks till i got the fuel pump fixed. i think i got some atf fluid from the leaky power steering pump in the oil thru the open spark plug hole when i was towin it but i changed out the oil but kept the old filter on. the smoke is just coming from the exhaust flange only on the passenger side where i think the tickin is coming from i also took the pcv valve out to spray starting fluid in to diagnose my fuel pump failure but i put it back on and put the hose back on the pcv valve

its a 95 ej22

hi guys i just recently fixed my fuel pump and my car starts now but it is ticking really bad now and below the valve cover on the passenger side of the car starts smoking really bad near the exhaust flange and when i run my car it blows awful white smoke out the tail pipe

thank you for that helpful piece of info. i will try this tommorow after i change the oil and put plugs in

okay well i cleaned up the burnt conector and made it so it made a connection again and put the pump back in the car. the pump works now and the car starts but its ticking really bad.. i think what could be due to alot of atf from the leaky power steering pump getting down in the oil through the spark plug hole that i had the spark plug out of when i was towing the car.. (stupid me) and also all the plugs are really black so im gonna replace them and change the oil and hopefully that will stop the ticking.. the idle rpms are also at like 1.5k when i start the car up.. also there is this buzzing noise which sounds like its coming from the Coolant temp sensor that runs for a couple minutes after i shut the car off..

i bench tested the pump with a 12v battery and it ran fine.. i checked the relay and fuse both were good

i see what your saying but the voltage drop was before the bad connection i read it on the 6pin connector that plugs into the fuel pump assembly connector that sits ontop the lid

bump

but i dont have alot of money at the moment and wanted to test it because im only getting 10 volts to it so it may be a wiring problem and not the pump. *EDIT* okay i unplugged the red and black electrical connector that goes directly to the fuel pump and the other 6pin connector the red connector is black and burnt and the plastic connector is melted a little on the red side. the black connector is silver and not burned and intact.

hi i believe either my fuel pump is no logner working or not getting enough voltage to run it. yesterday i pulled the whole pump assembly out and i was wondering how i could test the pump by putting 12v directly to it and see if it spins? thank you

okay its deffinetly a fuel problem b/c i sprayed some starter fluid in it and it started up for a second but blew some nasty smoke out the tail pipe. I unplugged the connector that goes into the fuel pump and turned the key on and tested the 6 metal conductors on that connector. I put the red one on each one of the metal conductors and the black one on the fuel pump lid for a ground. The highest i got was a reading of 7 - 10 volts

alright i pulled one of the 3 fuel lines coming from the fuel filter headed to the fuel rail and i turned the key on and even cranked it and no fuel i couldnt even smell fuel in the line i pulled. so what is the next step? And thanks for all the input and help guys.. i know the egr code is always gonna be there bc of the 2.2 swap the maf code and fuel temp sensor have always been there since the swap. the iac code came after i started seafoamin it and i did a compression test a few months ago and it was spot on as well as checked the timing belt to make sure it was in time. the belt isnt that old maybe 20k or less miles on it also i know the harness is good i spent weeks inspecting that dam thing when my car was missing so bad it barely moved. i did everything plugs wires coilpack swapped the entire intake w/ fuel rail with known good one nothing fixed that dam miss but seafoam in the pcv valve and in the oil.

well today i had a friend turn the key on and i listened in the gas cap and didnt hear a whirring noise so that leads me to believe my fuel pump is bad.. i found the relay after about 2 hrs of cussing and moving wires and plugs and ************ out of the way under the dash and tested it it clicked. so anyways next step is to find the fuse for the fuel pump however i cant find it anywhere...? does anyone know where it is? and if the fuse is good do i need to replace the pump or is there anything else i can check first? thanks

well i put a new maf sensor on it and it didnt help. however i did find a large amount of atf fluid that leaked out of the power steering pump in the spark plug hole nearest the pump. the plug wire boot was completely saturated with atf and the plug

So my car has been missing lately when i idle in a parking for an extended amount of time when i go to pull out it misses for a couple secs then straightens up.. well it eventually gets to the point where it will start missing at driving speeds.. so i been seafoaming the ************ out of it. 1/3 can in pcv rest in oil. that always straightens it right out. been doin this cycle for about 8 months now every couple of months i guess. anyways i wake up start my car up runs like normal just like any other day run it to town go into school to pick up my girl and come out no more than 5 mins later and i try to start it up and it just stumbles and sputters out so after an 80$ tow bill to get it hauled 10 miles i get it back home and now it cranks but wont even start... The engine is a 95 ej22 swapped into a 98 LGTL. Ive got all the normal codes(P0102 P0183 P0303 P0403 P0420 P0507 ) ive had for like a year. plus a new one now.. cyl 3 missfire. Any idea on where to start? for some reason i feel like theres been carbon buildup or sticky valves or somethin and i just kept beatin the symptoms w/ seafoam untill it finnaly decided that wasnt enough.. anyways thanks in advance guys.. P.S. Also my power steering stopped working and i replaced the pump and it started working for like a couple weeks then just got worse then it was before.. Thanks:Flame: Scott

Hi guys, i was recently workin on my fog lights and i just jacked my car up a little by my oil pan which was very stupid of me.. anyways now its leaking this greenish substance that kinda looks like antifreeze but kinda smells like grease.. Does anyone have any idea what i might have damaged by jacking my car up this way? thanks

Well mine is fixed now. I just found this motor on the local classifieds and i was thinking for parts or if this one goes. i just got an email and he said it ran great it came out of a car that the frame was all rusted. and he was going to put it in his outback but he sold the outback now hes selling the engine. alot of the parts on this engine such as coil, wires, sensors, pulleys and stuff will all fit the 95 ej22 in my legacy correct? if so then i think the engine is worth it just for the parts

hi I was wondering if anyone could tell me if a 2.2l engine w/ 150k miles out of a 99 impreza is worth 250 bucks. and also if it would fit in my 98 legacy Thanks

Wow my thread is popular.. lol. Well now that my subaru is finnaly im thinking about selling it because I dont know whats going to happen next with it and it took me 4 months to get this missfire fixed so i might as well get what i can get out of it

Well after having my legacy misfiring and running like ************ since April and having replaced just about every part you can for a misfire and having it to 3 mechanics, I have finally fixed it! As i was getting my car ready to be towed to my mechanic to have another engine put in. I decided as a last ditch attempt to try my bottle of seafoam that i was told wouldn't help me any.. I poured half a bottle of seafoam in the pcv valve and the other half in my crankcase. i hammered on the throttle wide open for a few minutes and then it started smoking from the heads.. I got in not expecting anything and lo and behold the car stops missing! I couldnt believe it. the car had full power again i drove up the hill no problem at all! So anyways im guessing that the hydraulic lash adjusters on this 95 2.2 thats in my car were sticking up or the valves were sticking because of carbon and the seafoam got rid of the carbon and made all the cylinders fire right again.. thats my theory anyways. I cant believe i finnaly fixed it. Its such a great feeling. lol

well actually the battery light didnt show up. i think that the battery was just so far drained the alternator couldnt keep up and when i turned the lights on it just shot it over the edge.. also about the 6 disc changer, the 6 disc thing worked great when i first got the car of the guy. then a few months later it wouldnt work it would jsut spit them back out when i tried putting them in slot 1 - 6. so i have only been able to play one cd at a time in the top cd slot.. any ideas as to why its doing that?

wow what a day... i pulled the subaru out of the garage to get it ready to take it up to have a new engine put in and i decided to pour some seafoam in it... i put 1/2 in the oil and ran 1/2 thru the pcv valve.. car stops missing... take it for a drive and i got full power.. then my tach dies. car starts missing.. then straightens up.. then my speedo dies. at oil temp blinkin like crazy.. (14, 17 and 18 blinks) abs light on... Turn on headlights and car misses very badly like its going to stall .. take it up the road. car stalls wont crank.. had to jump it.. take it home car runs awesome and then stalls pullin it into garage. batterys dead. so pulled battery and its slow chargin all night... what a day! i cant believe its not missing anymore! im guessing the valves were sticking and the seafoam freed them up and thats why nothing would fix it(spark plugs coil sensors etc.) Anyways im anxious to put the battery back in the car fully charged and see what happens tommorow!

yep ive had the entire intake manifold swapped. Also i do know that my 6cd disc changer was put in. i dont know how much wiring that would have required but you would think that would all be behind the cd player and not the ecu? i counted about 8 splices all together, Im wondering though.. if its a wiring problem why did the car run fine the whole time i had it till i blew my engine then when he did the swap it it ran awesome for 6 months then all the sudden runs like ************. also i noticed a wiring harness thing that isnt even connected. its wrapped up in this foam stuff and it looks pretty factory. like it never was connected to anything