Scotty1419

yes new plugs oem wires coil all those have been checked and replaced. No CEL. it was just idling rough before the maf was replaced i think he said that fixed the idle but still have the miss. the car runs like crap. i did however notice a sensor that was unplugged. it was right above the knock sensor on the right side of the throttle. im not sure what it goes to but i figured it wasnt a big deal because no one told me anything about it. i assumed that it was just left out because of the 2.2 swap

hi guys i had a post about this earlier and i cant find it so im starting a new one.. I have a 98 legacy which i had the 2.2 swap done. car ran great for months but one day it started running like crap. Its at the third mechanic now.. anyways he found the MAF to be completely dead. he put a brand new 200$ MAF on it and it fixed the idle he said but still have the missfire. 3 out of 4 plugs are fouled completely black. He is telling me the car is running too rich and he says its the injectors. However the last mechanic i had it too swapped the intake with a known good intake with good injectors and everything so i know the injectors are good... any ideas? Thanks.

nope just random missfire codes.. but i dont know what else to do but throw parts at it.. i dont know much about these newer cars

well i just ordered a knock sensor on ebay going to give that a try.. does anyone know if the grade of the sensor is that important? i only paid 22$ for the sensor and i know its not a OE subaru part.. but i didnt want to pay an arm and a leg if this isnt whats wrong with it. man i hate this crapshoot i wish it would just give me a code and tell me what the hell is wrong with it

thanks for replying.. yes the car has the 2.2 swap done to it. it jumped time and bent the valves in my stock 2.5. thanks for the suggestion on the MAF and Ignitor i will look into getting those parts to try on it.. the timing was dead on. also he said the compression was around 140 on all 4. and he said they were just random missfire codes he didnt specify which ones. what i dont understand is why wont it throw any codes if its a sensor of some sort isnt that what they are for? to throw codes if they go bad?

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Hi guys, my 98 legacy gt is giving me a really hard time and i cant seem to figure it out for the life of me.. The car is running terrible.. Its just dont have any power.. it will barely climb hills.. the engines all shaky.. good compression on all 4.. I have had it at a subby mechanic for a while and he tried all the obvious and some not so obvious.. spark plugs wires coilpack 02 sensors cam sensors crank sensors ecu computer fuel injectors fuel filter. timing was dead on. he even put an intake on it.. a fuel pump.. drained the fuel put new in .bypassed the catalytic converter.. only codes are random misfire codes.. it has got me pulling my hair out.. it just wont run right!!! if anyone has any ideas of what it might be please let me know!! thanks Scott

thanks for all the input guys.. i have been out of town for the week and just now got back in.. the crankshaft marks on the crankshaft sprocket were the ones that were out of time.. I am considering purchasing a 900$ remanufactured ej25 ebay engine for my car.. considering that im looking at atleast 900$ to do this valve job even myself when i consider all that i must purchase. head gaskets new crank pulley new timing belt kit probably tb tensioner gaskets for manifolds and valve cover gaskets. valves and the actual valve job itself.. i just cant see spending all that money when i could buy a 30k mile jdm engine off ebay? am i wrong in this assumption or what?? and also im told that a 2.2 swap is almost a plug n play deal.. and with a 2.2 its a non interference so i would never have this problem again.. Thanks..

ive used a haynes manual since i bought my 98 legacy and it served me well.. except for when i was trying to find the band adjustment on my auto tranny

well the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) is fine as far as the key and everything but it broke in two pieces.. there is a rubber insulator inbetween the two pieces on the pulley and when i took the pulley off the rubber insulator came off and seperated it into two peices.. one piece with the grooves that the drivebelts go on and the other piece with the 22 mm nut u take off.. so are you saying that the crank pulley has to be on in order to start the car and test it??? and my timing belt is fine no cracks or anything

well the car just like stalled while i was driving it it had no power.. i popped the hood and the ac drivebelt was completely frayed and disintigrated.. the alternator drivebelt was also slightly frayed and wrapped up in the crankshaft pulley.. i replaced the alternator drivebelt and tryed starting it and it made the starter noise only it was louder.. it had like a loud whirring noise and it definetly wasnt the normal noise.. i cant really explain the noise other than a unusually loud starting noise.. i may be able to record it. but when i opened up the timing covers i found that the crankshaft sprocket was definetly out of time

Hi Olnick, Thanks for your reply sir.. Yes it cranked but it didnt start, and ever since this happened when i try to start it it makes this awful noise not the usual starter noise it makes.. and so this does mean that i will most definetly need to pull out the engine from the car? thanks again

hi, recently my 1998 legacy gt limited skipped time and would not start. i put it back in time and still nothing.. from what ive read i have bent my valves and will have to have a valve job done.. i am wondering how hard of a job this would be to do by myself.. or if i should just give in and pay the 1,000$ quote and take it to the mechanic to do it..? and would i have to pull my engine out to do this or would i be able to jsut remove the heads and fix it? Thanks, Scott