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jazzmandolin

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Everything posted by jazzmandolin

  1. jazzmandolin
    Thanks
  2. jazzmandolin
    I have never really had any problems with any of the many many manual transmission cars I have owned over the years. So I never have really checked the fluid levels on a regualr basis. I have been having absolutely no problems with the tranny on my 92 loyal 5speed 4wd but when I checked my trans dipstick today LOW and behold it is like BELOW LOW :eek:yikes does not register any oil at all on the stick:eek WAY YIKES. So my question is what type of fluid is best for these trannies and am I going to start having problems once I fill it to correct level? What damage may have happened running the car so low? Thanks again for all you guys excellent feedback. Peace out
  3. jazzmandolin
    All is well so far after replacing the old alt with the new old alt from the u pull it!? Volts are now normal and the blower was the 15 amp fuse all seems to be normal now! I feel lucky nothing else blew up seeing I just did such a long trip in over charge. Subarus freakin ROCK and so does this site. Peace out Jay
  4. jazzmandolin
    HEY thanks for the reply as I did not understand all that could be lost with this charge condition! You told me exactly what I needed to hear thanks so much. I love this board. I pulled a almost new looking alternator from a u pull it salvage yard fro 15.00 awhile back just in case I needed one. It is going on the car first thing in the morning. So far I cant tell that anything has blown up other than the fact that the blower motor stopped working last night Wish I had have know this was such a bad situation as I just did a t two thousand mile trip with it over charging YIKES. Will never happen again. Thanks Jay
  5. jazzmandolin
    OK so I am still getting used to using this board and pretty much found my answer in another post. Any additional input such as what damage could be caused by this over charge condition would be very much appreciated. Thanks again Jay
  6. jazzmandolin
    Volt meter on my 92 loyale wagon is running up close to 18 with no accessories turned on. I put lights, heat, blower motor on full and the gauge goes on down to just above 12. My head lights dim some when the blower motor is turned on. I am guessing it is the volt regulator and or alternator and am wondering if regulator is part of the alternator or separate? Thanks
  7. jazzmandolin
    Thanks for the replies, and cam tower to head seal is what I was looking for and I am afraid this is probably the culprit? Tear down the motor in the middle of the trip will be a too much. Thinking i will have to let it ride till I get home and just keep a good watch on the oil level which I do anyway at every gas fill up. Any additional input greatly appreciated. Thanks again Jay
  8. jazzmandolin
    Hey guys, I am in the middle of a 2500 mile trip, The good ole 92 loyale wagon did great on the trip out here to Arkansas from Virginia other than a small oil leak that seems to have gotten a little worse. Its not that it is leaking that much its that is is leaking from the back of the engine onto the cat. and or exhaust pipe and stinking of burning oil to high hell. Is this most likely the main seal between the motor and trans or is there another seal I need to know about? It is not the valve cover gaskets for sure! How hard is the job and what should I expect if I decide to get a estimate and have it fixed? I will have access to a full garage and lift in the next few days before I head back to Va. and am thinking I might should try and fix it myself? Thanks so much for all your great input. Jay
  9. jazzmandolin
    Thanks for the reply and no I am not so sure it is coming from the clutch just that I only hear it when letting the clutch pedal out in first and reverse. I will check the engine to tranny bolts as it seems quite possible it could be some sort of loose or missing something? What are the symptoms of a throw out bearing going bad? Thanks again for any and all help.
  10. jazzmandolin
    OK, So when letting out the clutch especially in reverse and sometimes first form stopped I get a grinding sound I can feel it too. Other wise the clutch seems to work perfectly, noise only happens from stopped in reverse or first. Thinking it might have something to do with the hill holder but I might be totally off. I have felt around underneath for something loose to to avail. It does seem like more of a grind than a rattle. Any suggestions? It does not happen every time but almost all of the time?
  11. jazzmandolin
    Hey thanks for the reply, I looked and studied the pic. in my manual and determined what I thought was the correct position. Fired her up bleed the system took her for a drive and at first she when very close to hot so I killed the engine coasted back down the hill I was on to my driveway. Started her up again and the temp settled down to normal. Guess it took a minute for the tstat to open up? I then drove her for another twenty minutes and she stayed between cold and halfway the whole time. I think she is good now and I have heat and defrost. YEAH guess I should let her cool down and try again to see if she over heats at first again leading me to believe the new tstat might be suspect. Thanks again Jay
  12. jazzmandolin
    OK so my 92 loyale wagon has not been warming up to proper operation temp. No big deal until now that it is getting cold out. So I figure its the tstat, buy a new one, and start the install, pull the housing apart and LO AND BEHOLD no THERMOSTAT in the housing!!!!!!! So now my problem is I have no old tstat to match the position with the new tstat! My almost worthless haynes just says to install exactly the way the old one came out WELL no old one, and the picture in the manual must be of a 1600 and not the 1800 because the position of the housing to the motor looks different? CAN someone tell me the correct position of the tstat in the housing as I am thinking this is VERY important. Thanks Jay
  13. jazzmandolin

    Hello, my 92 loyale wagon has not been warming up to normal operating temp no big deal until now it is getting cold. I pulled the thermostat housing to replace the old thermostat and LOW AND BEHOLD no thermostat!!!!!!! So my problem now is I have no old tstat to see the correct position for the new tstat. Can someone tell me how the new tstat should be positioned in the housing? My almost useless haynes manual just says to install exactly the way the old came out OH WELL. Please HELP. and THanks

  14. jazzmandolin
    Ok, so my new to me old 92 loyale has the TOD pretty constant, I have read some of the posts concerning this but want to make sure I am doing the right thing as for as flushing the motor! First thing I did was replace the quart low black as black is black oil and fram filter with 10 30 castol syntetic and a K&N oil filter. This seemed to help the tapping some what but it is still pretty constant! So 400 miles into the new oil and filter the level is still full the oil is still very clean and clear but the tap is still constant! So should I still go for some method of flush? Should I use the atf or marvins, how much and how long should the additives stay in the motor? If my oil is still clean after 400 will more flushing do the motor any good? I am sure I will end up replacing the oil pump seals, possibly the oil pump itself and later down the line probably the lifters but want to try the best method flushing before I start pulling parts! I think I read somewhere that someone fills full with atf runs at idle ONLY for thirty min then drains and fills with fresh oil and filter? This sounds like a serious cleaning but kinda dangerous to the overall condition of the motor? Thanks so much for any and all input and sorry if I am beating a same ole dead horse question. LOL Peace out
  15. jazzmandolin

    Best method engine flush? I drained old super black quart low oil, form my new old loyale and put in 10 30 castrol syntec with a K&N filter, seems to have deminished the tick but it is still constant. Which is the best flush and how long should I leave additives in the motor? Is atf or marvins best and how long should each stay in? I think I read somewhere that someone fills full with atf runs only at idle for bout thirty minutes then replaces with new oil and filter. I am sure I will end up doing the oil pump seals possible oil pump and possibly the lifters later down the line but want to do a really good engine flush and clean before I start pulling parts! Also 400 miles after my initial oil change the level is still full and the oil is still clear, wondering if the oil is staying clean should I still do more flushing. 194,500 miles runs great but has pretty constant fairly loud lifter tap! Thanks for all your good input.

  16. jazzmandolin
    Hello, Very nice board here, I just bought 92 loyale 4wd wagon, 194,000 miles, my first older subaru in quite some time. Couple of questions? Of course it has a pretty loud tick coming it seems form the drivers side. I changed oil first thing which was a quart low and looked years old, to castrol syntec 10 30 and a k&N filter used synthetic lukas treatment too. 250 miles later the oil is still clear but I still have considerable tap? Ive read about flushing, oil pump, oil pump seals and lifter replacement and wondering if my oil is staying clear should I still do a flush? The other thing is the temp gauge barley moves I thought it was inoperable but noticed that it does move up some after driving for a while but not much? It had a new radiator put in by previous owner and I wonder if he replace the thermostat? If the thermostat is stuck open would this not be letting the engine warm up enough causing extra tap? I thought that lifter tap was pretty much normal for high mile older subarus? Will I be doing major damage driving it with the tap? Guessing I check oil pump and seals first? I love my new old car and want to do the best thing for it! Thanks for any and all input!
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