gmdagit
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Posts posted by gmdagit
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I have an 84 with the same engine, but a Weber carb. Lat month I had some carb problems. The OEM gas filter that is under the hood has a glue in fuel filter, with today's blend of ethanol mixed in the gas, had caused the resin to break down and plug up the jets in the carb.
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welcome abord
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Might be the early signs of an ignition switch failing, I know some times when its freezing outside when I first try to start my car my starter will stay engaged even with the switch in the off position.
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I used a set of toyota steel rims, there 15x6 and worked well for keeping the offset correct for the space needed to clear the strut towers and break calipers.
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Well let me the first over on the west coast to say, nice to meet ya!!
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'84 wagon, with weber carb, 2 inch snorkel, accel coil, new dissy, I run 30 miles of freeway each way every day on 215/35/R15 hankook MT's with the rear-end locked, to lazy to take out the axel every weekend. Also has the older 4 speed tranny, I get right at 23/25 highway and little less around town
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I had to heat mine up and spray some PB Blaster (pen. oil) and let it set for a few hours to soak in good.
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I talked with some people today, they think that the change I noticed may be from the disy having a better spark now that it has a slight vacuum thus allowing for stronger spark. Which sounds more likely that the ionized air.
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So this weekend I wanted to water proof the disy, it has a vent in the cap, So among other things I removed the vent cap and added a section of hose. I ran the hose over to the snorkel and plugged it in to a nipple I added to the snorkel.
Long story short I got the idea from a street racing forum. they claim that the ionized air helps to create a better fuel burn.
I have the EA81 with the weber 32/36 and the accel coil that fires around 45k, I know it may sound odd, but it seems to have had an impact on how the engine run, most noticeable above about 4200 rpms.
Just wanted to get some feed back as to what others may thing about the ionized air and fuel mixtures.
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Kinda depends on how much use you will get out of the dj tool. The brat should be worth around $800 I would think unless the transmission is bad. The carb issues is a cheap fix, about $25 for a rebuild kit I think.
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If you go to rockauto.com and look up Subaru 1970 they have the parks listed under the 360 car model for your engine.
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Hi, here is some info I googled about your sambar, they did install it with a 2-stroke engine the code for the engine is EK33 hoope this helps.
EK33: 356 cc Bore & Stroke = 61.5 x 60 mm
compression ratio = 6.5:1 (standard) 7.5:1 (Young SS & Sport Edition)
maximum output 26 PS (19 kW; 26 hp) at 5,800 rpm (R-2 Van K41, Sambar K55/K64)
maximum output 30 PS (22 kW; 30 hp) at 6,500 rpm (R-2)
maximum output 36 PS (26 kW; 36 hp) at 7,000 rpm (R-2 SS)
maximum output 32 PS (24 kW; 32 hp) at 6,500 rpm (R-2 Sport Edition)
Used in the Subaru R-2 1969–1971 and Subaru Sambar 1970–1973
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I have Had the same problem with the roll-pin, the best thing I found was to get some nails that dint have a zinc coating on then and grins the end flat and keep hammering it till the object starts to poke thru, then take small vise grips and pull the pin out, I have also had to cut a larger cotter pin in half and use it the same way to drive the object out, the cotter pins is hardened steel so it will take a little more abuse than the nail, but is harder to drill out if it gets lodged in the hole.
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If you lift the EA81, with out dropping the engine and transmission down the same distance as you lift it at the struts, it will break the DOJ on the front axles. These EA81 model axles can not handle the sharp angle of the lift with out properly spacing out the other parts of the drive train and engine.
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I have a '84 wagon that stock ride that has 215/75R15 LT. I had to trim a lot and they still rub in the rear if i jump.
Lost Ignition Key!!!
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Take the plastic off the steering column, about 6 Phillip screws, on the left hand side of the ignition is 2 small screws #1 Phillips, I think. Remove them and that will let you pull the turn part of the ignition, then you can use a flat tip or just about anything else to rotate the plug piece that you just removed.