superpoo93
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Posts posted by superpoo93
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Or White Line
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Try.
OutBack Technologies USA
sales@obtusa.com
Amir Web
(914) 302-2431
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Sounds good, just let me know. We can work out a good day next week, if the new breaker bar doesn't work.
Noel
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Sarge, the offer still stands to use the 1/2 impact wrench (345-ft lbs). and I have a regular 1/2 36mm socket. and a 32mm socket for those aftermarket nuts. I had an issue just like yours and the impact from my work, did the job. I have no problem bringing over, just let me know. I'm free Friday after 5;00pm. and Sun early before the SuperBowl.
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Sarge, did you already try a impact wrench? If your new bar doesn't work... I can get ahold of a corded Dewat DW292 1/2 from work and bring it over, just let me know. Next Wed - through Sunday should be free for me.
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Quote: *I had with me. I thought broken timing belt(s), so I removed the distributor cap, but the rotor still turns. Then I thought it may be an ignition issue, check for spark from the plugs, spark is there*
Did you actually touch the rotor and try to turn it by hand??? The rotor will still turn without the screw in it, and appear to be ok., I bet anything the screw in sitting at the bottom of the disty.
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Wait.... Did anyone mention the stoopid rotor screw?? Damn thing got me twice until I put loctite on it.
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Np. I wish my Loyale was not a daily driver, so I could park it and fix her up... like ur Brat. I'm always chasing something...knock on wood. Snows coming to the valley, Should provide some good entertainment. Glad we have more superior rides than most. :-)
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Try heating the nut?? You might have to cut through the nut "carefully". For the heater hose, try these industrial supply stores. They should be able to make the custome bends, if they don't have something in stock. It's worth a shot.
House of Hose
N.Las Vegas
702-399-1497
Henderson
702-565-1288
Hosepower
On Industrial
702-731-1100
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You said your heater, is not producing a lot of heat? Have you taken the in/out et hoses off and flushed with water?? Warm your cat up and check the inlet an outlet hose. The inlet will be hot and the outlet will be a lot cooler, if your heating core has junk in it. Leave the hoses connected at the firewall, and disconnect at engine. Just need a spray nozzle to force the water through, use like a water bottle to catch the crap coming out. Should make a big difference in heat coming out of the vents
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You may find the intake gasket is leaking in to the head... , either pass or driver side. The last time I had smoke/steam coming out of the exhaust, that was the issue. Check your spark plugs to see if they fouled as well
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Google is your friend. You will normally hear crickets chirping, if you just ask without doing some research.... I will however give you a hint.
Google: loyale d/r swap
It should lead you in the right direction
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Looking good Sarge! Can't wait to see it at the In n Out when it's done.. If you ever need help, PM or email me and if I'm free... I would be glad to give a hand. I'm still keeping an eye out for the D/R for you.
Noel
Flat4
EA82LV
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Couldn't you use all thread/nut/washers to press the bushing out. I have done this with my Mopars back in the day. I did it with my Loyale as well..
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Couldn't you use all thread/nut/washers to press the bushing out. I have done this with my Mopars back in the day. I did it with my Loyale as well..
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The search on the site can difficult at times. Please search Google, You will find your answer....
Edit:I found it right away...just saying
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It was annoying to me so I rebuilt the HLA's, and replaced the oil pump/ seals What I didn't know at the time., was the reinforced oring between the head, and block could be the culprit. Not to mention rtv getting into the oil port in the cam assem. You could try Lucas Oil Stabilizer, in the oil to quite them down a bit, it's only a temp fix till you find time to fix.
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Uh? Are you saying, how do you tell if it's a EA82??
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Any codes from the ecu??? You could have an intake leak where the intake meets the the heads. Spray water or windex at the base of the intake flange and see if it changes the idle. It happened to me before...sprayed at the base and idle levels out and then fell back to a bad idle. Note: do not spray anything flammable *
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How many miles on car? Could be your Cat iif original lit, could be plugging up. My car starrted dying and running really rough, lost power. When it finally died... starting really heating up and running very poorly. And eventually stopped running all together. I had to loosen the exhuast at the head and drive it home. If you have checkied your timing and you have replaced/checked everything else. I would loosen the exhaust header just enough to allow a gap... Fire it up and see if still runs rough. It going to be load, so don't do it too early in the morning.
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Duh.... I get it now. I went back and did what you said and I cycled through all gears. I feel dumb for asking but at least the light bulb is on now. This is one the major areas of my car that I have never touched, I will make sure to take lots of pics when I pull her apart. Thanks again
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Thanks Gloyale. Great write up! I appreciate the push in the right direction. I was expecting the shift linkage to move side to side into each gear. Like I said I'm not familiar with transmissions, but ready to dive in... I hope to get a reseal kit and get her installed next month. Thank again
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Happy to say that I picked up a 87 GL D/R. 5sp non-turbo for $100 to swap into my 93 Loyale wagon S/R 4wd 5sp. . This trans is not installed, I checked D/R linkage and it moves back and forth easy, seams to ok. The problem is trying to shift into gears 1-5, the rear shift lever will only go back and forth, no side motion. I'm no rocket scientist when comes to transmissions, but Google searches make it sound like internal damage. May something to do with shifting forks/synchro ?? Is there a good write up on how split the case? I planned on resealing anyway. I will post pics of trans in a day or so. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thank you
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My front right axle failed today as I was taking a left hand turn and promptly stopped accelerating and heard an awful grinding noise. I checked it out and it looks like the problem is with the splines on the hub end since the axle and hub do not move together. Now, in my experience, if splines fail, it trashes the splines on both components.
Has this happened to anyone? I think the axle has been replaced at some point, and the car only has 110,000 miles on it. I'm hesitant to take it apart since it's already torqued and I could just slice the shaft with an angle grinder and drive around in 4wd until I have the resources to fix this issue. Any thoughts?
Check this out
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118112-axle-nut-failure-point-reachedat-45mphhelp/
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79 Brat in Vegas
in Members Rides
Posted
No problem Sarge, anytime!