Aussi Vortex

This is the hub so far, there is only about 3/16 " (5mm) between the old holes and the edge of the new studs see below: The pattern I want is 4 1/2" (or 114.3mm) std pattern. You can see in the photos, the old holes, new studs and the 4 x 100 hub bolt holes on the inside. On the rear of the hub, there seems to be no room other than to encroach on the fillits of the hub support area (where it bolts to the disk rotor) click to enlarge I suppose this is why the engineer want the holes filled, to give extra strength so close to the old studs. Is this how you did it Jerry? Thanks Chris

More than you may think. I made a claim several years ago, Had "Marque" style mags on, which tracked slightly more than the legal limit. The assessor tried to knock back the claim. The rest of the car , looked like new, ( except for where someone ran into me, hense the claim) the tyres were quality 195 / 60 instead of 185 / 70 and he picked it. (1/2 inch difference either side in width) Insurance guys down here are allways looking for ways to exclude a claim in Australia. Down here , In Aus, you can have up to 2.5cm or 1" wider only than standard track and remain legal. It was only the fact that I had the mags pre approved by the inspections area of the same insurance company and the assessor was pissed off ! If I can, I will keep it legal. Jerry: Have you actually done this to an "L" series hub? There is no room that I can find to be able to do this. I am holding the 2 hubs in my hand, one which has the new studs, the other an un modified one. The 4 x 100 bolt pattern on the opposing 45 degree centreline (that the hub bolts up with) are in the way, and there is not enough room to directly go below the original stud holes. My moddded one, is offset slightly from the original studs, and still doesn't leave much room. If I had a working digital camera, I would post a photo. Hopefully you can make my thick skull see how you did it - cause for the life of me, I can't.:-\ thanks, Chris

If only it wat that easy... the protrusions on the back of the hub make it - lets just say - rather difficult

Thanks for the replies so far - please feel ferr to keep them comming . The professional "metalergest" can tell me exactly what the material is, except that the best quote for this service so far is $325.00. I can get a better price from interstate ( Australian states are big tho)and just send them some of the material from the hub ( shavings I would imagine) and will come with a written "content" report, with how much of this, this much of that - all relating up to the total sum of either cast steel or iron ! The machine shop that can weld it, recons it is probably cast steel, but said that if it has'nt been welded in the correct manor, that it may crack and not be fixable. I spose that unless someone knows for sure, I will just have to get the test done.

It will cost a lot - somewhere round $1000 + a lot of time to do a Legasy / Liberty suspension / hub swap. XT6's are not available + expensive to import the hub assemblies ( around $1400 if available.) Has anyone found out exactly what the hub material is for an XL / L series? How do you tell the difference between cast iron and cast steel? I can get the holes filled professionally, as long as I know what the material is. the edge of the new studs are 3/16 away from the edge of the old. If it was to get brittle, how far would it be affected? thanks again Chris

I do want street wheels, It is going on a up market XT coupe. Probably 17" 5 studs are the way to go, but here in Australia, we don't get the XT6 5 stud option (very expensive to import) and 5 stud conversion will set me back at least $1000 + heaps of time. it can be done from Legacy / Liberty parts, but a long winded process 4 x 114 is only a re drill, a weld and a certification- very simple. Insurance is the real killer if I don't have it engineered. No certificate, no rego, no insurance. If you have a problem, you dont get a chance to fix it, as you will be under a ton of bricks. Same as being done for driving a car with no rego or insurance + if there was an accident, you can be sued for the full damages, weather it was your fault or not. I want it legal... any one else have any thoughts on the material content of a "L" series hub?

#*^! engineers ! I tried to get some hubs engineered, (by 2 different engineers) without welding up the original stud holes - without success. * Engineer reasonably requested that the holes be welded up. (fair enough) * He also said that they had to be welded by someone with knoledge of the necessary procedure - yer, well ok ( diffferent materials, different welding techniques , OK, I can live with that) I may need to have the procedure varified by the engineer, before the welding takes place. ...but " what is the "exact" material that the "L" series hubs are made from? (yes, I know it's metal of some description ) Does any one know? Is there a spec sheet that will have this info - somewhere? A metalergist (the expert who does metal analasys) wants to charge between $280 to $350 to tell me what the material is.. after taking a sample and testing it. I thought someone here may know , or has done this already. I have heard that the most common technique is to heat the hub to a certain temperature, in some sort of oven, weld it using a similar material to the hub re heat it and let cool. I was wanting to do the new 5 stud conversion, but will be priced out of my budget, so this is the next best thing. Just want to get some better rims eventually ( 17"s would be nice). another thought, does anyone have 4 x 114 conversion and done something different? I'm open to suggestions ( but in reality, if it were dead easy, everyone would be doing it) 4 x 114 stud pattern, obviously isn't as good as 5 stud, but it's gotta be better that 4 x 140. Any thoughts anyone? thanks Chris _________________

Depending on how big the rip and where it is, SUPERGLUE ! There is a technique though. I was a motor trimmer and had to fix up car yard cars on the cheap. First, slip in a piece of vinal behind the rip, then glue to 1 side. Take the strain off the tear, glue (dont use too much) and tape the juin. If you have done it right, you can release the tape after a few hours.smooth over the join with a REALLY hot knife (blowtorch hot) try on a sample first. too hot and it will catch fire, too cold, wont smooth out. If you have done it wrong, make sure you arnt alone, or you and your car will become very close for a LONG time. (heard of the expression ' stuck like glue '?:-p ) If it is big, and on the face, try stitching by hand first, and get a patch frim a trimmer and melt it on, with a hot air gun.

posted this yesterday, and got the explinations - started as a bit off topic, but is very relevent to this thread.. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?postid=143307#post143307 Posted by: Aussi Vortex

Seems the 5 stud hubs are as rare as.... Everyone wants them (at the right price too) and any one who has them , wants to drive around on them!! :-\ The conversion is a 4 x 100 pcd as in photos at : http://www5.ocn.ne.jp/~smsgkit/index.html Seems the hubs can be redrilled to 100pcd and machined to take standard wheels - so 15" 16" 17" Wheels can be fitted. Doesn't alter the breaks, but seems on the same page, alternate brakes are available as well. (if I could read Japanese) I would like to have options I don't currently have... Chris

Hi all, I'm after some "think tank" advice and thoughts. After an extreemly challanging search, engine missing and spluttering boiled down to a "fuel flow" problem in my Turbo XT. I pulled the tank out, the inside is totally rusted out, the pickup badly blocked. Well and truly past the acid bath stage (and i split it in 2 with the view to a clean and reweld)its just dead. My other XT tank turned out to be the same... even the sender is rusted... Has anyone else had this problem ? As I can't find a replacement thats any good, my options seem to be a custom made tank - any one got any ideas? So far, I am considering a slightly modified stainless steel "marine cruise tank" off the shelf, but is smaller capacity. The other is to make one myself. Took a photo to some fabricaters (they didn't like the dent for the rear diff) and $ glowed from their eyes. Remember, I am in Australia, Thanks for offers for tanks in the US, but need one in Aus. Thanks .. Chris

I know this is a side issue, but has anyone done the 4 stud conversion ( or got one from japan?) http://www5.ocn.ne.jp/~smsgkit/index.html At least wheels would be available - check out the picks

A man after my own heart -- very cool - as i said before, it gives us old guys new hope and encouragement. :cool: - ( im 45 and drive an XT) congrats are definatly in order. Chris:)

Some jump, you have to wonder a few things. 1 how did he get the 'flying weight" down so much. Was it lack of driver weight (ie: he was already flying before he took off) 2 If the latter, what was it, I want some.. 3 How old was the driver ( It gives us old folks (at 45) some encouragement) 4 How will other manufacturers club members look at this? another 1 for the subi? Jerry - most Australians arnt like that, if you can pass on some details, to me, i'll see if I can do anything ... no promises, but I can try - Chris

What are the details of the 2 cars again? complete - carbie / fuel/ years and descriptions. I only have XT's - but if you can find the ECU, green and black plugs should be right near it. see yesterdays postings I also sent you a private message re codes - check your in box

I looked through a lot of the solutions posted here over a while, I have had the same probs with mt XT'S. (If your confused by now, I and others don't blame you!) I was running filters before + after pump, Replaced pump, sorted all the ecu codes (sometimes the results are a symptom, not a cause...) I bit the bullet, dropped the tank out, the fuel flow out of the tank built up pressure, but under extreeeem flow, couldn't cope and dropped off. I flushed the tank, pressure washed the inside, cleaned the pickup (inside - with difficulty) and it vastly improved. Thing is it came back !! Dropped the tank again, recleaned it, ( was filthy again ) I got a glimpse inside - oh s***. Couldn't believe it - the rust and crap was incredible. I split the tank (was going to re weld it) and to my horror was Totally unsalvagable. Looks like the remains of an old rusted ford .. My other XT , pulled the fuel sender, scouted around - EXACTLY the same prob SOOOOOO... I drove it with a jerry can in the back seat ( with hose through floor) back to - smoking up the dyno !! Now I need a new tank, probly a stainless one... Its worth a quick check if you havn't already done it.. Chris ********************************************************* Further thoughts: Tank doesnt take that long to drop, as long as tank ie empty + you got some ramps. Sender, you should get off in 10 min, through the floor in boot. Use a bright small torch on an angle. a big torch you cant get a good enough look around. Also "feel" the inside roof of the tank around sender, with your finger. Both my tanks - you could "feel" the surface rust. ecu connection : Normal running both green and black - disconnected, diagnostic - green only connected retreaval - black only connected clearing - green + black - connected for 1 minute ( I found dissconnecting battery for at least a min, more successful) I believe this is the same for nearly all models - mine is ea82 mpfi turbo, exactly same as ea82 non turbo + L series - good luck

Hey, I'm new to this stuff, so bear with me:-p I'm in Australia, have 2 XT's (1 x 2wd standard, the other AX4 Turbo AWD) and have talked to an auto engineer here, seemed the best option was to turn it into a cabrio, so take out the back windows, leave the pillars, strengthen where a roll bar would go, slice the roof behind sunroof , weld up or cover up where the window flanges are - then visit a motor trimmer for throw over hood. ( I was a trimmer, can be done easy...) Seemed the most cost efficent way to go. Havn't done it yet, but still seriously considering. + I get to keep the car I WANT to drive...:cool:

I have had PLENTY of fuel problems... with being fuel injected, it is like a water pistol untill the pressure is releaved. Use the rag over the filter - a big one! Even a carbie model holds pressure and there is no bleed off that I have found.