boing

ok, for those interested... no wonder I couldn't find the flasher unit for the turn signals.... instead of being a cylinder, it's a flat plastic flasher that hooks directly to the computer. sheeeeesh... ya think they could of told ya that in the mitchell or in the book or at very least in the htkysa book. it's just above the fuse box to the right... directly under the steering wheel. weird deal.... my problem got solved (so far) just by taking it apart and putting it back together. Thanks all, boing

Thanks.. I havent' looked yet but I will and get back to you. I have had a bum knee and have been away from the computer. I took the fuse panel out and let it rest forward but was unable to see the flasher but will look again and report. boing

I have a 3 door coupe (1988) and I found a short in the flasher or the turn signal switch and need to start by replacing the flasher so I have two questions. ONE..... Are there two seperate flashers .... one for the emergency 4 way lights and one for the turn signals???? TWO..... I can hear the stupid thing buzzzz but just can't see it. Anybody know how to get to them???? maybe a picture from a book so I can see where the stupid thing is??????? boing

hi rainsplitter, Take the radiator down to the shop and have them put a new outlet on it. they are soldered on and they shouldn't charge you much. On another note.... take a picture of the one you have and post it and maybe I have a good one for you. I have 2 rebuilt and one brand new still in the box and all of them are different. if you post a picture please email me at: jndoe@theofficenet.com so I know that it's here or just email me the picture by inserting it rather than an attachment (I don't accept attachments). We'll get it straighted out one way or the other. boing

ok... I'll give the light a try. I do have a 12 volt camp bulb that is the size of a household light so I'll use that. I'll let ya know how things turn out. Thank You, boing

Good Going!!!!!! I used to live in Burlington and love Skagit Valley. The wife and I now live about an hour north or Spokane. It's cooler than heck that ya had the guts to try something like that. Pretty Brave Lady. boing

Hi Glen.. I'm still looking but I do still have the problem. I put a 15 amp fuse in and it blew but only after driving down the road a ways. I put in another and it stayed working for the next few minutes and blew again. I've been trying to relate the problem to what I'm turning on but it's been a bugger. For example.. I turn the turn signals on either way and it doesn't blow and sometimes do nothing and it does blow. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr..... frustrating bugger I can tell ya that. I thought about shortening the load with a 12 volt light but the fuses are cheaper. Thanks... if anybody else has any ideas I'm willing to try almost anything. Jerry

Hi Frank, The ones that I've seen for replacement for the electric fans went by dimensional size rather that speed rating. I bought one from ebay 10 inch and it and it had a greater pitch than the original. A subaru dealer could really help answer your question to the T. boing

Thanks for the reply Cougar... I do have the problem still. Even with the wires unplugged from the door I still get a short (blown fuse). because this happens so quick I'm sure it's a short rather than an overload. I have been just sitting there doing nothing at all (using nothing electrical) and the stupid thing blows. Or maybe when I go to test it by using the turn signals ... that causes it blow right away. grrrrrrrrrrrr this is pretty frustrating. Any Ideas ?????? I opened the cover of the wire thru the door and everything was intact (no broken or burnt wires). Does anybody know where the switch is that causes the dome light to come on and off with the door open and shut???? boing

Hi Everybody.... hope things are going good for all of you. I have a problem.. I had a 20 amp fuse blow about two weeks ago and new ones don't last long. It's the fuse that goes to: electric windows and turn signals. I took the drivers door off and unplugged the window motor and didn't use the passenger side window at all but the fuse still blows. After eliminating the window motor I put the door back together and put in a new fuse and it allowed me to use both right and left turn signals and roll up the drivers side window. First of all... this is a 1988 3 door coupe 1.8 throttlebody without turbo. It is also the manual shift 4 wheel drive. I could use some trouble shooting help .......... and I have a second question. On my previous non subaru cars the interior light came on by a ground switch that is activated at the closing of the door.... how does that happen on the subaru??? I don't see a ground switch there. I'm grateful for any help you can give. boing

Hey Parod!! Welcome.. I don't live too far from you. I'm about 70 miles north of Spokane near Colville, WA. I've gotten alot of help here and hope you do too. Also.. looking forward to see you help others with things you learn or know. boing

Hi GLJoe... I'm not sure why you're taking the axle off at all. The boot replacements that I have put on ...were put on with the axle on. The kit has an overlapping boot that you fill with greese and put new metal bands on the ends. If you are replacing this cv boot because you heard a noise of felt a clunk then I recommend you put a new half shaft on it or rebuild the one you have. Remember when you put the roll pin back in... that it goes in the big hole side rather than the small hole side. boing

wow!!! Only 40,000 miles??? I'd love to be there. I'm at 248,000 and expect another 100,000. To answer your question.... If I had the cash I would first want to know how the engine ran without replacing anything and then if it ran well I would replace the following: new oil pump, new water pump, new front seals and the rear main seals, new timing belts, all new radiator hoses. While the car is out I would make sure the seal is good for the cam cover, new oil pan gasket, new thermostat and gasket, I'd also use this time to put new oil filter and change the oil to a good synthetic oil (like amsoil). Why the engine is out I'd inspect the half shafts really good and check out the boots on the cv joints and replace them as needed. Now would be the time to look at the clutch and cables too. I hope that helps and I hope the real actual miles are only 40k. boing

This kind of problem is very unsafe and yes you should be concerned. Yes it's true that when you had it checked it may have appeared fine however.... The syptoms that you describe will come back until the problem has been solved. It could drive you nuts if you continue to think about the frequency that it occurs so maybe put that thought aside and start taking a look at one thing at a time. I'd start by checking cv joints... really inspect them close. torn boots? "buckling" feeling when you turn them? signs of greese? I've seen broken joints come apart and go back together showing only a crack line when in trueth they were completely broken and later have pulled apart at the break again. If you can for certain rule out the axles then take a look at the brake rotors. Just a couple ideas to get you started ... Please post here and let us know in detail what you've tested and how. NOTE: if you're going to drive this car it's going to be at a risk so take er easy. boing

I agree with Glen and would like to add this......... Please carefully check your fuses. Even if they appear good and test good it doesn't mean that the connection of the blades is good enough. I have a kinda weird car because it's the EA82 3 door coupe and I have a fuse that is for the fuel that is directly connected to the gauge. In other words.. when my fuel pump fuse blows my gage says I'm empty. Good luck. Boing aka Jerry