boing

ok, for those interested... no wonder I couldn't find the flasher unit for the turn signals.... instead of being a cylinder, it's a flat plastic flasher that hooks directly to the computer. sheeeeesh... ya think they could of told ya that in the mitchell or in the book or at very least in the htkysa book. it's just above the fuse box to the right... directly under the steering wheel. weird deal.... my problem got solved (so far) just by taking it apart and putting it back together. Thanks all, boing

Thanks.. I havent' looked yet but I will and get back to you. I have had a bum knee and have been away from the computer. I took the fuse panel out and let it rest forward but was unable to see the flasher but will look again and report. boing

I have a 3 door coupe (1988) and I found a short in the flasher or the turn signal switch and need to start by replacing the flasher so I have two questions. ONE..... Are there two seperate flashers .... one for the emergency 4 way lights and one for the turn signals???? TWO..... I can hear the stupid thing buzzzz but just can't see it. Anybody know how to get to them???? maybe a picture from a book so I can see where the stupid thing is??????? boing

hi rainsplitter, Take the radiator down to the shop and have them put a new outlet on it. they are soldered on and they shouldn't charge you much. On another note.... take a picture of the one you have and post it and maybe I have a good one for you. I have 2 rebuilt and one brand new still in the box and all of them are different. if you post a picture please email me at: jndoe@theofficenet.com so I know that it's here or just email me the picture by inserting it rather than an attachment (I don't accept attachments). We'll get it straighted out one way or the other. boing

ok... I'll give the light a try. I do have a 12 volt camp bulb that is the size of a household light so I'll use that. I'll let ya know how things turn out. Thank You, boing

Good Going!!!!!! I used to live in Burlington and love Skagit Valley. The wife and I now live about an hour north or Spokane. It's cooler than heck that ya had the guts to try something like that. Pretty Brave Lady. boing

Hi Glen.. I'm still looking but I do still have the problem. I put a 15 amp fuse in and it blew but only after driving down the road a ways. I put in another and it stayed working for the next few minutes and blew again. I've been trying to relate the problem to what I'm turning on but it's been a bugger. For example.. I turn the turn signals on either way and it doesn't blow and sometimes do nothing and it does blow. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr..... frustrating bugger I can tell ya that. I thought about shortening the load with a 12 volt light but the fuses are cheaper. Thanks... if anybody else has any ideas I'm willing to try almost anything. Jerry

Hi Frank, The ones that I've seen for replacement for the electric fans went by dimensional size rather that speed rating. I bought one from ebay 10 inch and it and it had a greater pitch than the original. A subaru dealer could really help answer your question to the T. boing

Thanks for the reply Cougar... I do have the problem still. Even with the wires unplugged from the door I still get a short (blown fuse). because this happens so quick I'm sure it's a short rather than an overload. I have been just sitting there doing nothing at all (using nothing electrical) and the stupid thing blows. Or maybe when I go to test it by using the turn signals ... that causes it blow right away. grrrrrrrrrrrr this is pretty frustrating. Any Ideas ?????? I opened the cover of the wire thru the door and everything was intact (no broken or burnt wires). Does anybody know where the switch is that causes the dome light to come on and off with the door open and shut???? boing

Hi Everybody.... hope things are going good for all of you. I have a problem.. I had a 20 amp fuse blow about two weeks ago and new ones don't last long. It's the fuse that goes to: electric windows and turn signals. I took the drivers door off and unplugged the window motor and didn't use the passenger side window at all but the fuse still blows. After eliminating the window motor I put the door back together and put in a new fuse and it allowed me to use both right and left turn signals and roll up the drivers side window. First of all... this is a 1988 3 door coupe 1.8 throttlebody without turbo. It is also the manual shift 4 wheel drive. I could use some trouble shooting help .......... and I have a second question. On my previous non subaru cars the interior light came on by a ground switch that is activated at the closing of the door.... how does that happen on the subaru??? I don't see a ground switch there. I'm grateful for any help you can give. boing

Hey Parod!! Welcome.. I don't live too far from you. I'm about 70 miles north of Spokane near Colville, WA. I've gotten alot of help here and hope you do too. Also.. looking forward to see you help others with things you learn or know. boing

Hi GLJoe... I'm not sure why you're taking the axle off at all. The boot replacements that I have put on ...were put on with the axle on. The kit has an overlapping boot that you fill with greese and put new metal bands on the ends. If you are replacing this cv boot because you heard a noise of felt a clunk then I recommend you put a new half shaft on it or rebuild the one you have. Remember when you put the roll pin back in... that it goes in the big hole side rather than the small hole side. boing

wow!!! Only 40,000 miles??? I'd love to be there. I'm at 248,000 and expect another 100,000. To answer your question.... If I had the cash I would first want to know how the engine ran without replacing anything and then if it ran well I would replace the following: new oil pump, new water pump, new front seals and the rear main seals, new timing belts, all new radiator hoses. While the car is out I would make sure the seal is good for the cam cover, new oil pan gasket, new thermostat and gasket, I'd also use this time to put new oil filter and change the oil to a good synthetic oil (like amsoil). Why the engine is out I'd inspect the half shafts really good and check out the boots on the cv joints and replace them as needed. Now would be the time to look at the clutch and cables too. I hope that helps and I hope the real actual miles are only 40k. boing

This kind of problem is very unsafe and yes you should be concerned. Yes it's true that when you had it checked it may have appeared fine however.... The syptoms that you describe will come back until the problem has been solved. It could drive you nuts if you continue to think about the frequency that it occurs so maybe put that thought aside and start taking a look at one thing at a time. I'd start by checking cv joints... really inspect them close. torn boots? "buckling" feeling when you turn them? signs of greese? I've seen broken joints come apart and go back together showing only a crack line when in trueth they were completely broken and later have pulled apart at the break again. If you can for certain rule out the axles then take a look at the brake rotors. Just a couple ideas to get you started ... Please post here and let us know in detail what you've tested and how. NOTE: if you're going to drive this car it's going to be at a risk so take er easy. boing

I agree with Glen and would like to add this......... Please carefully check your fuses. Even if they appear good and test good it doesn't mean that the connection of the blades is good enough. I have a kinda weird car because it's the EA82 3 door coupe and I have a fuse that is for the fuel that is directly connected to the gauge. In other words.. when my fuel pump fuse blows my gage says I'm empty. Good luck. Boing aka Jerry

I recently had the same drop to 10 volts and got a remanufactured one... well it didn't work... after 3 hours on it I had the same problem. I returned it and they replaced it and so far so good. I had my Pops go to a pull a part on the washington coast and pick up a spare... he did and brought it to schucks and they tested it. It's in my trunk for a spare with a new belt just in case. Good luck. by the way, I paid 75.00 for the reman and 15 bucks for the pull a part one pluse 12 bucks shipping from my pops to here so for 102.00 I got a replacement and a spare. The belt was 7.00 so 109.00 total. Some times the "T" connector needs to be cleaned and I recommend that you try that before anything else. Good Luck, Boing

I tested it today and very little if any frothing. The radiator water lever decreased after I started the car so I kept on adding coolant. It actually took about a quart or more. I drove about 18 miles and it ran at normal. Is it possible to come and go? It did cool down here a bit tonight but sheeeesh.... Please help me get it here... I'm grateful for any suggestions, Boing

It's pretty hard to keep the radiator equal at the full..... if I give gas the water lever goes down .... if I let off the water comes back to the full line. I will look close today for bubbling. I didn't see any frothing at all. My guess is... by now I'm running almost pure water and no coolant because I've added water from where the radiator overheated and spit steam into the overflow and I added water before starting it again. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr dynomite is sounding pretty good to me right about now.... Have you ever roasted a hot dog over a subaru???????? If I didn't love this thing I would of given up long ago. Boing

Glad that your heating problem went away 86Subaru... I have mine worse than ever still going on. I can drive 6 miles and all of a sudden it progressively gets hotter til it red lines ( I turn it off before it crosses the line). I can have the head tested.... Keep in mind that I didn't have this problem until my water pump went out and of course overheated at that time so I replaced the water pump but have the problem ever since. Perhaps the first overheating caused the head to gasket to go bad but I see no sign of water coming from the head or anywhere else except the overflow. No hoses leaking, no thermostat leak, no sign of water jacket leak. I will take the electric motor out and feel the radiatior like you suggest and see if I can find some cool spots too. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, I've been growling a lot lately over this thing but I'll keep plugging along.. it's the only car we have. If you have other suggestions please let me know. Boing

Hi Gang!!! I posted earlier along this same post but... I now have a consistant (grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr) overheating problem too. Maybe we can solve this problem together. New water pump, new thermostat (which for now I have out). No leaks anywhere. The electric fan comes on just about 3/4 on the gauge. It takes about 6 miles of driving before it starts to overheat and then gradually heads for the red line. Belt is nice and tight, no weird sounds (other than the gurggggling from being hot). this is a EA82 '88 3 door coupe 1.8 thottlebody SOHC. Crud... I hate to think a new radiator maybe. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR HEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP!!! boing

Hi 86Subaru!!! I was having an overheating problem myself and I took a trip today with hills that was 45 miles away. During that trip I had to stop 9 times to let the thing cool down. The last time it over heated (not in the red but a bit before).... when it was cooling down it gurgled and took some of the water from the overflow but.............. at the same time emptied an air pocket. I added almost a gallon of water and......TA DA . My cooling problem is almost completely solved. I drove for a bit... overheated... added water one more time and was able to drive 30 miles at normal temp. NOTE: in my case the air bubble was just before the heater core so the air was cool even while the water was boiling... after the suction from cooling down and adding water I have heat again too. How has your heater been working?

Welcome SubaRuthLess!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You'll find that this forum may save you hundreds of dollars and lots of time on subbbbbbie repairs. Darn good bunch of peeps here. Anyway Welcome!!! Somebody told me that the subaru's are smaller than the mesquitos up that way.... is that true? I was in Hanes and made the driving trip to Anchorage in 72 and Loved it. Boing from Colville, Washington... about an hour north of Spokane.

I just had mine looked at and the price is only 223.00 with upper tint or 189.00 for straight glass and I have a 3-door coupe ea82 ....1988 to be exact. This a shop just out of Spokane , WA boing

Hi !!! You have described a situation that I had a couple years back to the T. It was indead the timing belts. Until he knows that for sure... it's not healthy for him to turn the engine over. Ask him to remove the covers and take a look. boing

Hi 86!! It didn't take me long to learn that you should NEVER let the temp get into the red. Because of the aluminumn engine alot of things happen.... like gaskets start to blow things crack ...etc.. I strongly recommend that if it gets close to the red..... pull over and let it cool down. I have a question for you... Do you have more than 50% coolant in your radiator? I've seen some weird heating and cooling problems happen when you get up beyond 65 percent coolant so you might try taking some coolant out and adding good clean water. It's possible that the thermostat is malfunctioning so replacing that isn't out of the question. I recently put 3 (count them.... 3) thermostats in my 3 door coupe before one worked at the right temp. The two before that didn't open until after 250 degrees on the stove and obviously in my car. Car parts are getting weaker and lamer in the after market world (my opinion and experience). It would be interesting to see if you took the thermostat out completely and see if it does the same thing.... if it does the same thing it wasn't the thermostat but an air block (grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, some of those can get bad ) or perhaps too much coolant. One more thought.... perhaps the temp sensor is turning the fan on late but this will give you something to think about. Please let us know so I can know too. boing