boing

Hi Lefty... don't overlook the thermostat. I'm putting my third one in. The two I put in before them didn't open til I boiled them to 240 degrees. The second one and the new one I'm putting in are OEM so it could happen with factory thermostats too. Good Luck, boing

If nothing else... maybe consider cutting some heavy pipe to the size you need. I've done it before with no problems. PAP or other wrecking yards are a good place to go too.

Recheck the fuses. This really sounds like a fuse problem. If you trace the charge fuse line back you find a second fuse or in most cases a fusable link. Check them very close and then check the connection that they are making. The fuse may be good and the connection bad. try cleaning the connectors and make sure the connectors are all plugged in. In this case 2... or 3 but definately the one right at the alternator. Hope things work out... post here to let us know. boing

Is this the 2.2 or 2.5? I was wondering how much oil you've been through in that 1000 miles? This is full Fuel injected too right? Normally when white smoke shows up there is some other engine problems like stalling or hard to start and leans toward moisture in the fuel. Any other symptoms? boing

Hi, I just wanted to add this picture (it gets big if you click on it). boing

Hi Peter, Hey... welcome to this side of the mountain!! I live up in Colville. The plug just unscrews and you screw the heater in and run the elect to the sidewall and up to the front of the car into the grill so you can plug it in. They run about 50 bucks but the benefits far outway the alternatives. I would recommend that you NOT use the hose type... they have caused alot of problems like melted hoses etc... The picture of the engine posted before me was too small for me to see it but.... there is a screw in plug on the front passenger side. boing

Hi, Water certainly is a possibility. The thinking behind it is that when you come to a light the fuel sloshes forward and back as you stop causing any water (which is on the bottom of the tank) could be allowed to enter your fuel line. I've also seen these same symptoms with the wrong air mixture. You're engine gets over fueled and choked out. Restarting requires the fuel to minimize before the car will start. does it smell like fuel in your car when you try to start it? Good Luck and keep posting here until we get to the problem. Boing

Hi Ross, ya sure you don't have a plastic plug leaking? Dog gone plastic draincocks anyway. My 88 has a recovery on the top that that hose goes into to. Boing

YaY Bonney Lake!!!! Actually I'm from Burlington.. near Mt.Vernon. I live in Colville now (70 miles north of Spokane). Ya know replace the PCV valve is a good idea. I do have a question for you though... First this is an EA82? and have you tried going straight uphill (with no turns on a steep grade) to see if it is still smoking? Do you smell oil burning when you get out of the car or notice any smoke from under the hood? Oil dripping on the Y connector can cause that. let us know....... Boing

Holy Cow.. what a nightmare. I didn't catch your original post before you had this work done and I'm sorry for that. I have a very helpful thing to do if or when you have some work done again. I tell the shop that I will have the work done if they will agree to let me take some digital pictures of the engine. I haven't had anybody tell me no yet. In this particular case you could of taken digital pictures of your pulleys and the fan clutch and of the pulleys. A good picture of the timing belts and seals would be a good idea when they get the cover off. It really sounds like perhaps they have done damage themselves trying to get the pulley's off but it's hard to have the proof of that now. I wouldn't hesitate to ask them which marks they used when they did the timing. Even though late... I hope this will be of help later. Boing

The 180 degree will not allow the water to get as warm as the 192 however... you should have heat with either one. Do you have low heat or no heat? I'm thinking that you need a new thermostat regardless of which one you put in. I would use the 192 in the winter and 180 in the summer. let us know if you got some heat going.

Do you use injector cleaner in your fuel? sounds like injectors that are a bit gummy... by using it, it would also help to displace any water. Not a bad idea to see if there is any water in the fuel filter. boing

I already know they will consider this a total and the fair market value will probably be about 100.00 - 200.00 . I feel for you and understand how you feel about having to give up on it. unless they have prior photos or you tell them there was prior damage they will assume it's all new damage. Just make sure that you're ok. I'd hate to see you sign off of insurance and something come up later. This happened to my dad and they sold his 90 legacy back to him for 85.00 . He paid to have the repairs done (1200.00 )and the car runs and looks great. in his situation he had too much money tied up in the car to just let it go. Good luck regardless what you decide to do. boing

I know exactly what you are talking about. I didn't use any tool at all and when I put the belt on the stupid engine would roll off mark...grrrrrrrrr. I just kept my eye on the hatch marks and kept on trying till I got it on. I truely would recommend that you take a close look at seals for leaks because this is an excellent time to replace them. If I had it all to do over again... I would have put an oil pump, water pump, all the front seals. 800 miles after I put the belts on, I had to go back and replace the belts again and put the seals in (another grrrrrrrrr). then after 2400 miles I had to replace the oil pump and I'm kickin myself in the rump roast for not putting a new water pump in. every one of these could be prevenative measures and could save ya alot of grief down the road. boing

I think I'd try a helicoil. They have some that just screw into the damaged thread. Tell the parts house what you have and ask what ya need for it. wish ya smooth threading. boing

I know.. I've said it over and over but never estimate the power of a blown fuse. take a minute and check them all. boing

the throttlebody that you are using now should have ample fuel. In fact it has a feature that brings an over amount of fuel to the throttlebody and routes the excess back to your fuel tank. You need to change more than just the TB to make a bigger one work. boing

ya might find it hard to believe but........."check the fuses very close" this gl has some electrical sharing features in it that prevents you from being completely without. there is electrical back leakage that makes one light dim and it's normally a fuse. boing

I've seen this weird reaction with fuel that has moisture in it too. It wouldn't hurt for you to put some water displacement in your fuel. Check your new fuel filter very close and see if you can see water. This does sound more electrical than it does carb problem. keep posting til we find the problem. boing

the stock oil pump is a high output pump and should do anything that the engine demands. they really engineered a good pump for your ea82! If your pump is reading below 25 pounds of running (not idleing) pressure , you might want to look for leaks.

it is common for circuit sharing bulbs to blow at the same time and another thing that I thought you might look at are the connectors that link them together... are they secure (no rust or damage) and are they tight. Maybe try moving the connectors around a bit with them turned on and see if they light up. boing

Hi Peter! Hello Everybody!! I talked to a local subaru repairman that I know here and he said first of all... that he has done 82 axles and out of them 7 remanufactured axles were bad. eeeeeeeeek that's close to 10 percent. He also told me that it's possible that you've had this noise before and it was covered up by the sound of you bad cv joint. It's pretty normal for some noise as a car gets older. Those are his words, not mine. When I turn I hear a sound almost like my wheels are going to squeel. It's really a road to tire thing for me. This is really frustrating for you but hang in there... don't let it get to you too much. There are some fine people here that deal with subaru's everyday and eventually we'll get it.

Hi, Wow... I haven't been to concrete in years. I know the Bianchini's there. It makes sense to me that if you put a new half shaft on the drivers side and the problem is still on that side that perhaps you overlooked something. I'd try to retighten the castlated nut and if that doesn't help... just look real close at the other nuts and bolts (like the steering arm..etc...) to make sure you didn't leave anything off or loose. keep trying and posting here so we can help. The better you discribe it, the quicker the problem solved. Take care, boing

600.00 is way too much. Even at the dealer it should run about 240.00 - 320.00. I'm wondering if they may be adding in a timing belt and seals?????? find out exactly what they were going to do and post it here. If I lived near there I'd go do it for you but I'm about 500 miles away. Good luck, boing

Welcome to the board. You'll find a very good variety of Good advice and some awesome conversation with the best of the best. I really like your car..... WOAH!!!! COOL!!!! I have an 1988 subaru with 248,000 miles on it and it runs like new (or close to it). hmmmmm 22,000 ... that's not even broken in yet. Glad meeting you, Boing