markman34
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Posts posted by markman34
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I have paid to replace a driveshaft when the repair guy said the u-joints could not be serviced.
Is this correct? Can the u-joints be replaced or does the whole driveshaft need to be replaced?
If the joints can be replaced that may be a solution to a wobble that I have experienced.
Thanks
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I had a problem finding my connectors to clear the codes. I was looking under the dash for the connectors and they turned out to be on the other side of the firewall. (near the brake booster)
Did a resistance test on my egr solonoid and it was toast. Switched the solonoid and the dash light was gone!!!
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That is some cool stuff guys. I guess you'll be needine the dual range for the plowing action.I could make a killing up here with one of those.
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Day three of driving around at 4k on the tach. tick tick tick. How embarrasing.
Though, the engine is pulling ok. No oil burning and not one leak!
I'm looking at the high idle right now. Mine's running a little high and will not kick down (ever) It used to kick down great.
As well, the engine runs a lot cooler since I added the gunk valve medic stuff. Now it won't ever get up to proper operating temp while driving.
I'm a little confused with the spfi high idle setup. I haveadjusted the idle screw to the max to bring the idle to spec. no dice. I picked up all the solonoid valves from the wrecker and am searching the MB for info on the problem
It's hard to pinpoint the lifter that's ticking when it's all reved out on high idle.
More later
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well I have been driving around with the tach sitting at about 4000 and still no dice. tick tick tick (about 100 km )
shuting it down for today. More later
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checked pressure springs on the cam towers. Both are clean. This is not the problem. My pressure guage is reading the same as always. It's always been low on the guage so maybe a new OPSU. The guage has always read less than 3kg. Is this a normal pressure for this pump?
Oil pressure sending unit and oil pump gaskets on order.
Is it really possible that there could be a couple of lifters that haven't been pumped up yet? Even if the oiling system is clean and pumping to the lifter gallery?
Thanks
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Thanks for the response
When I tore the engine down because of the broken valve everything looked great except for the valve. I saw that the valve seat was fine and lapped the valve. The Subaru specialist around here said he'd never seen a valve fail like that before. Nor have I. It looked like it had been cut by a torch from inside the cylinder.
The reason that I think its cruddy lifters is that:
When I first fired up the engine, oil pressure was good and there was only a slight tick in ONE of the lifters. Later that day a severe tick from one lifter in the save vicinity on the passenger head. Only after I added the solvent stuff did the problem spread to the other lifters. Both sides of the engine.
I am hoping to silence the lifters/valves without yanking the valve covers and cam towers. If this is something I have to do I will do it.
I'm thinking I will begin refreshing my other EA82 (new HG's, and Cam box) and drop that in there when I get it finished. It's nice to have two engines.
I was hoping to get a few weeks out of all of this work on the car ya know?
Thanks again for the help guys
I don't think your going to find a quick solution from an additive. I take it that this tapping noise didn't exist before the repair? You may have missed something or something else may be damage as a result of the broken exhaust valve.By any chance did you replace the oil sender o-ring on the cam towers? It is just a little smaller than a dime. If is old and harden it will leak oil and lessen the oil pressure to the lifters. There is also a pressure relief valve spring on the top of the cam tower underneath a 17mm bolt that could be weak. It can be accessed by just removing the valve cover, the oil sender o-ring requires you to pull the cam tower. You do not have to pull the engine to do this.
Q.-What is this ATF solution I've heard of. Can the car be run using an ATF/MOTOR oil blend?
A. – ATF acts like a detergent and is used for cleaning gunk out of the engine, from what I’ve been told you should only drive the car 100 miles with this blend 3:1 oil/ATF, and then change your oil. Don’t use it on a regular basis. Do not over fill your crank.
But I don’t think a dirty lifter is your problem. You say you replaced a broken valve? Did you check and/or replace the valve seat? Did you inspect all the valves and cylinder head for damage?
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Hi everyone. I'm just hoping to get some insight into the problem I'm having with my recent engine install.
I have an 88 GL wagon. 1.8L spfi EA82.
The engine that I just dropped in the car has developed a nasty tick and it's driving me nuts.
I repaired a broken exhaust valve, new HG's, pan gasket, etc and then dropped the engine in. During my rebuild, I cleaned and blew and vacuumed like crazy knowing the problems that these cars have with oil flow to the lifters. I didn't replace the oil pump as it was recently done and the engine had ample oil pressure when I took it out of the car.
When I fired the engine, after the smoke cleared, there was one lifter ticking mildly. I took the car out for a test drive and shut it down for the night.
The next morning the single lifter tick was far louder. I drove the car around a bit to shake things loose but the lifter continued to tick. This is when I went to the parts store and bought a bottle of valve medic made by gunk (I couldn't find this MMO stuff). I put this in the engine and went driving. Shortly after the noise seemed to change. It seems as though there are many lifters ticking badly now. (As though the oil had become too thin and I wasn't building pressure)
I noticed that the oil level had fallen a little so I topped it up with some 20-50. I drove the car home (about 50 km) and shut it down hoping that whatever was causing the tick had cleared.
Sadly, when I started the car again today, there was a chorus of ticking lifters.
The car sounds like and old vw diesel and I'm just sick of the idea that I have to take this engine out again.
Anyone have an idea for an easy "engine in" fix? What is this ATF solution I've heard of. Can the car be run using a ATF/MOTOR oil blend?
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Hi General,
So I think I have got the same problem with my 88 gl wagon.
The car was reading very hot when it started chugging a bit. I slowed and cooled the temp down with the heater, but I had lost a cylinder.
I am thinking that it's a HG but I'm wondering: Can the HG be changed in the car? What should the compression be for good cylinders? Will the head require machineing for sure?
I have another engine that I just took out of my older Sub. The compression is in the 90's for all cylinders. Should I just use the engine from the other car?
THanks for any help you have to offer!
Mark
Yes, you should do a compression check first.The heads can be removed without pulling the engine - no problem there at all.
Assuming compression is your problem, then you probably did blow a HG..... and just about every time you overheat them you'll warp the heads. If it's the original engine, and you will have the heads off anyway, you might consider a new set of 83+ heads with the larger intake valve's. You can get a set from Aluminium Head Rebuilders here in Portland for $75 each (so their web site claims). Having the heads machined and pressure tested will cost basically the same as a new set. And haveing the larger intake valve is good for another 7 odd horse power or so.
I really like the Fel-Pro head gaskets I've been using. I lost all my coolant from a blown hose, and they held just fine after overheating it terribly. Plus they are cheaper than the dealer - you can get em online for $14 each.
GD
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Hi everyone,
I'm having problems with the "check engine light" on my 88 SPFI wagon.
On the computer I'm getting a 35 error code most of the time. Sometimes the ecu is clear.
The "check engine" light comes on after the car has heated up and will sometimes go out if I bring the engine/coolent tempurature down using the heater.
This has led me to believe that the caar may be running too hot?
Is there a lower temp. fan switch for these cars?
I have run out of ideas. I've changed the canister filter, the solonoid for the canister.
If anyone has sseen this before I could use some help. This problem and some minor oil burning when it's real hot are the only things keeping this car from being perfect!
Thanks
Mark
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I am wondering about a solonoid valve and it's proper operation. The valve in question ends up going to the purge canister. (purge canister solioid valve)
Error code 35 on the ecu
Car runs great hot or cold
My question:
when i applied 12 volts to the valve there was no response. I expected that a voltage on the valve would cause it to bypass to the vent on the valve.
Any Ideas anyone?
As well, What would be the procedure for bypassing the purge canister. a couple of tees and a valved bypass line? or, just tie them to eachother and ignore the vacume line.
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I develloped the same problem today. Yesterday my guage worked fine. Now the guage graduates with the engine rpm but the needle starts low and barely gets to the 0 psi line at 3000 rpm.
Have you had any luck fixing your problem from under the dash? I JUST put mine all back together and was hoping to just replace the sending unit.
I'm thinking that it is the guage. I'll get into mine and let you know if I have any luck.
I played with the dial on the guage a bit tonight. I corrected the starting position and it now sit where it should. to start
It seems that the guage is not as active as it used to be. At high revs, the guage does not climb as high as it used to.
I could not stand to look at the guage as it was though.
Good luck
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Hi everyone,
I am really confused regarding what engines are in my two 88 1.8 wagons.
I went to steal a oil pressure sending unit from one for the other and they appear to be different. SU bodies are different and the thread size is quite larger on the one.
As well, I read a couple of times that the diag. plugs should be under the dash but found my green plugs on the other side of the firewall.
Does this give any indication as to them being different engines?
I started this project trying to get the check engine light to go out. Then I looked at the non working oil light. The guage is working correctly but there is no action on the light.
I have 12 v on the one side of the light but no ground on the other. (must depend on the continuity of the SU? ) Checked the SU and no cont. to GRD when the engine is off.
I think I'll take the computer into the garage so I can keep an eye on this posting.
HELP
Thanks for any help you have to offer.
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Hi everyone
I have the same sort of problem with my 88 GL
I looked under the column for quite a while before I found the green connector under the hood!
-Anyways, I have a green set of connectors and a white set No black set
-Check engine light almost always on
-when I looked at the connectors the green set was disconnected
-when I connect the green set the check engine light goes out
-error codes 31 and 35
Question- Is the green daig. connector set supposed to be connected during normal operation?
Can anyone tell me the way to go through the diag using the green or white set.
HELP !!! Lifter noise bringing me down
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Well, it's been a week and I’ve still got tick tick ticking in my ears.
I have fixed the high idle problem and changed the oil to a 10-40 with a hint of ATF for cleaning. The 10-40 helps bring the oil pressure up from where it was before and I think it’s helping. I have noticed the ticking has decreased. I think it is limited to only one or two lifters now!
I will continue to drive around with the tach at 4-5k until the lifters fill up or my neighbours kill me for making so much noise. (What will happen first?)
I LOVE THESE CARS IN THE WINTER! I do wish I had a turbo wagon to satisfy my urges/curiosity though.
Alas, I may have to buy a new truck for work. This would be bad news for my little wagon that could. But, until then, I will drive the hell out of this rig.
(Looking forward to the coming snow fall)