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MPGvan

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About MPGvan

  • Birthday 01/01/1911

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    king pierce sno
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    I Love My Subaru

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  1. I Got Lucky:lol: found a starter with warranty, tested and guaranteed to be good for 25bucks (after core) at my local wrecking yard Yahoooooooo:banana: now i can get back to fixing the rest of the problems...find and replace windshield, replace rear brakes, replace missing rear shock. replace rear CV, (replace return and reinstall) a faulty purchased front CV, and find out why i have no reverse in Lo-range.. just to name a few..lol This Little Brat has proven to be a Problem Child. :eek: :eek:
  2. yea Miles looks like i will be bump starting it for a while . i doubt very much i will be able to find starter rebuild parts any time soon.. i got lucky when rebuilding my heater motor.. found replacement brushes in stock at my local John Deer Dealer. who knows maybe John deer uses the same bendix...lol
  3. 1982 Brat 1.8L.. I think i Destroyed my starter and possibly damaged the flywheel:-\ .. my car was covered in snow and it was very cold.. I started the car and went inside to let it warm up for almost a half hour… when I returned to the car I noticed a grinding noise and the odder of melting wires.. pushing the snow aside I opened the hood to find the starter was smoking hot and had been engaged the entire time producing a grinding noise from the flywheel and starter I immediately knew the Ignition switch was hung up.. I turned the switch to run position and the noise stopped so I put it in gear and drove off. After the car had cooled the starter sounded weak but started right up.. I drove home.. and tried the starter again… this time it sounded very bad turning very slow and a(slight) grinding noise…….. time permitting it will be a few days until I can rebuild the starter.. Question is:: should I rebuild it or buy a new one?…… I was floored when I priced them.. I see that they have a reduction gear.. if the reduction gear is fine is it possible to purchase the electric starter motor separately? Does anybody have a line on cheep starters?? if so, please post information
  4. yea that sounds about right... but that is only one of the noises..lol i know for sure it also needs the rear drivers side CV replaced.. it is also missing the shock on that side.. and i believe the transmission has a few problems as well...lol i think i should just burn the car..lol:Flame:
  5. YUP One Piece driveshaft.... Dang!!.. good thing i asked before dropping the drive line...lol .
  6. i am having the same problems locating loud grinding noises on my 82 brat.. ive replaced both front axles and softened some of the noise up front.. i am still having problems locating loud gear noise cumming from *what i think is* the transmission , U-Joints , or the rearend... will it damage anything to remove the rear drive line and drive the car on freeways for a few days?? this will allow me to better locate where these strange gear noises are cumming from
  7. it is nice to know the dealers still stand behind these little old cars.. hahaha i still have a few questions to help evaluate the condition of this old transmission with 225thousand miles on it....lol 1. can i fill the transmission with a product called Pourpunch?? it is a thick sticky oil additive much like STP OIL Treatment.. i believe this will bond to the gears and muffle some of the gear noise.... if the grinding noise stops then i know the noise was cumming from INSIDE the trans. 2. i replaced the front cv axles but did not check the FWD bearings at the transmission or the driveshaft bearing/seal at the rear of the transmission is there a trick to this... like can i just grab the CV-Axle/driveshaft and shake it a few times and feel/listan for slop?? Thank you
  8. after checking out the link you included i think the problem could be the top of the bolt hitting the case. because 4th and reverse is a real pain.... it also makes noise if i rest my hand on the shift-knob while driving i guess i will have to get off the couch grab the flashlight and inspect the lower bushing/rubber sleeve, see if the bolt is hitting the case in 4th and reverse and check roll pin for slop... THANKS GUYS i know what to look for during my inspection and the items needed to fix it:clap: does any one know where to find a lower bushing/rubber seal if needed???
  9. oh Idasho.. sorry i didn't see your posts i went to this from bookmarks.. i guess i need to reload the page each time to see new posts...... i do have a Tap-Die set and i don't see the rol pin you are talking about.. i need to go back and read the full link you posted again... sory
  10. Thanks Idasho the detailed pictures will be most helpful i look forward to seeing them... i just haven't had the time lately to even opening the hood... i don't have a shop and lately it seems when i do have the time its ether raining or dark...lol hopefully by previewing the pics and reading instructions i can gather the tools needed and cut the repair time in half Thanks Again
  11. funny thing happened with my heater.. it had the same symptoms.... it would only work on high.. then it quit working all-together... i tested the wire harness and electricity was reaching the heater motor so i pulled the heater motor out and figured it was shot... my friend had a large very powerful battery charger and suggested we test it before replacing.............. hooked it up to the charger and WOW it worked fine........ i reinstalled the heater motor and tried it again... it did not work... we then retested the wires and they checked out fine...... i pulled the heater motor and tested it again on the powerful battery charger... and it worked but was spinning a little slower..... i plugged the motor back into the whirring harness again and the fan motor still did not work.... i then took the heater motor apart and found only one brush was making contact the other brush had worn down to the wire.. this caused the motor to require twice the amount of electricity to make it spin... explained why the motor ran on the high powered charger but not off the battery i went to the John-Deer dealer and bought a set of brushes and the heater now works just fine... lol
  12. i can not even make a attempt to answer your question without first seeing a few pics of the damage However.. i believe the first thing i would do is to strip the hood fenders grill and all nonessential parts off the brat.. then get yourself a lazor pen, tape-measure, plumb bob, cumalong, portapower, big sledgehammer, torch and logging chain and try to beat the brat back into shape as strait as possible.. some times this metal bends back surprisingly easy with a little good ol fashion brute force...lol if all is going smothly and you only wish to use it for off road then go on to the next little trick...lol clamp and spotweld 1inch square stock on the inner fenders of the engine compartment fire wall and tie everything to the strut towers, frame in your radiator with squarestock then scab it all in..... pull the hood/fenders/grill off the wagon and weld it together making a tilt front end again this is without seeing pictures and only for off-roading.. and to bump your thread to the top....lol
  13. i can not even make a attempt to answer your question without first seeing a few pics of the damage However.. i believe the first thing i would do is to strip the hood fenders grill and all nonessential parts off the brat.. then get yourself a lazor pen, tape-measure, plumb bob, cumalong, portapower, big sledgehammer, torch and logging chain and try to beat the brat back into shape as strait as possible.. some times this metal bends back surprisingly easy with a little good ol fashion brute force...lol if all is going smothly and you only wish to use it for off road then go on to the next little trick...lol clamp and spotweld 1inch square stock on the inner fenders of the engine compartment fire wall and tie everything to the strut towers, frame in your radiator with squarestock then scab it all in..... pull the hood/fenders/grill off the wagon and weld it together making a tilt front end again this is without seeing pictures and only for off-roading.. and to bump your thread to the top....lol
  14. more transmission pics please:popcorn: i have a 83 brat 4speed... i know nothing about these transmissions.. i have been so busy fixing other things in between the rain drops that i haven't had time to even look at the transmission... i finally got it licensed and tabbed a little over 2weeks ago.. the first road trip was almost scary..lol very loud gear noise mixed with grinding sounds so i replaced both front cv joints.. the car feels a little tighter.. but still loud growling, loose, clunking sounds especially when lugging the motor.. the linkage (if it has linkage) feels VERY SLOPPY and easily pops out of gear if not firmly placed all the way into gear.. <at this time it is my only source of transportation> so i just want to put a band-aid on this problem... i was thinking about adding Powerpunch or STP oil treatment to the transmission and maybe quiet it down enough to find out if the noise is cumming from the tranny or elsewhere... also i would like to know what it would take to tighten up the linkage.. does it have linkage? can i replace a few bushings or maybe adjust the linkage or shifter to take some of the slop out???
  15. more transmission pics please:popcorn: i have a 83 brat 4speed... i know nothing about these transmissions.. i have been so busy fixing other things in between the rain drops that i haven't had time to even look at the transmission... i finally got it licensed and tabbed a little over 2weeks ago.. the first road trip was almost scary..lol very loud gear noise mixed with grinding sounds so i replaced both front cv joints.. the car feels a little tighter.. but still loud growling, loose, clunking sounds especially when lugging the motor.. the linkage (if it has linkage) feels VERY SLOPPY and easily pops out of gear if not firmly placed all the way into gear.. <at this time it is my only source of transportation> so i just want to put a band-aid on this problem... i was thinking about adding Powerpunch or STP oil treatment to the transmission and maybe quiet it down enough to find out if the noise is cumming from the tranny or elsewhere... also i would like to know what it would take to tighten up the linkage.. does it have linkage? can i replace a few bushings or maybe adjust the linkage or shifter to take some of the slop out???
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