zacyork
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Posts posted by zacyork
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its very easy to put a universal inline performance pump. like a walbro or similar brand. are you putting the EJ tranny in it, or planning to use the EA with adaptor plate?
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im not sure what others have told you to do, but a multi-meter and wiring diagram should do you well. have you traced your power wires/ ground wires at all? power from coil? does your rotor spin on the dizzy? just start at your plugs and keep moving till you get through you ignition system. sooner or later you will find where you are loosing power.
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uummmmmm..... how is that tranny holding up at all? ticking time bomb. i would recommend converting to an ej trans sooner than later. but thats not what you asked right.
if you wanna a daily driver clutch a stage 2 is a good middle ground. i personally like exedy because of their centrifugal wheights on the clutch plate splines. helps for high load torgue at higher rpms. -
you are going to want to pull the motor out to work on the heads. engine stand helps a lot for rebuild. i dont quite understand what you mean there is interference at TDC. did you replace the belt and turn the motor and it wont go pass TDC?
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you will also need to get slim electric fans. little room between pulleys and radiator. might also want to put a torque arm at the bell housing. i have heard they work fine without them though.
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when the 4wd lever is all the way down is it front wheel drive or 4wd?
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my 1986 rx turbo is a part time 4wd dual range. i thought the later 80s were all full time but maybe not. what doesnt make sense to me is that you said one click down the top of your 4wd lever is neutral. it should put you in 4HI . why dont you put the car on jacks and run it. that should tell you pretty fast what you have.
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if it was my car i would start by replacing just that pulley and re-time the motor with old belt. see if it runs at all. if it runs ok you might have dodged the bullet. then go and replace the belt and other pulleys.
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a mechanics stethescope would work. if you dont have access to one you can use some spare smaller coolant hose. plug one ear and put the hose in the other. put it next to your pulleys.
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you will need the crossmember from a turbo car as well.
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i do believe its an 8mm or 10mm x 1.25
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good luck ken. if you have any problems with doing this let me know and i can give you a step by step. i can always go outside and find out which wires are what on my EA for ya. im unemployed right now so i have nothing better to do:popcorn:
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the fuel pump relay is above the ecu mounted on top of the steering column. you gotta unbolt the computer to get to it. you can bypass the relay temporarily to see if its bad. just take a paper clip and bend it into a u shape, unplug the relay and take the paperclip and put it into the wiring harness. one side power in and the other power out. there is usually schematic on the relay itself to show you which wire is power and which one goes to the pump. if there is no schematic you can always grab a wiring diagram online. now there are 2 relays right next to eachother where it is mounted but i dont remember which one is the fuel pump. good luck:headbang:
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It could be a battery cable connection - either at the starter or at the battery. Something may be getting hot and then opening up if the contact is weak..... have you tried using a jumper wire to to solenoid spade terminal directly? That would bypass the crank circuit and tell you if the problem is amperage related in the crank circuit or something in the battery cables or starter....GD
+1 using a remote start would shed light on this definitely.
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how long are you cranking it? does it slowly stop cranking or straight quit? have you checked your basics for crank but no start like spark/fuel? i dont know of a system that purposely stops cranking. you might have a bad ignition switch. you could bypass the ignition swith with a remote or push button directly to the starter. see if that allows it to keep cranking. just make sure you still have your key in the run possition so you still get spark and injector pulse. hopefully that helps a little.
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well it sounds like you need to get all 4 tires up in the air and see if any of them are dragging and go from there.
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i just went to make sure and my 86 ebrake is on the front
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according to the optima site- 13.8-15 volts, 1o amps max, 6 to 12 hours approximate. and that is for a standard battery charger
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your e brake is on the front calipers not the rear. so if you have sounds from the rear you have other problems. maybe sticky calipers
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i do believe the only difference in hoses between coolant and hydraulic (brake) is extra reinforcement for higher pressure. mainly thicker rubber with more nylon. what i would be worried about is heat dissipation. normally its mixed water/coolant cause antifreeze does not dissipate heat very well which is why its mixed with water. does brake fluid transfer heat at all?
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Well.....thats just it, its in a van
Supposed to be all 04 forester stuff.
but I have no ODB2 port to speak of.
so im confused what are you working on? you have a 2.5 swap in a van?
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not that i know of. but then again why buy a subaru then? our world is flat!
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clutch discs usually have a stamp saying witch side is the flywheel side. the raised side usually goes towards the tranny. does it feel like you have a good clutch when you press on the pedal?
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it might be that the clutch is not releasing at all. clutch linkage all good? did you replace the throw out bearing and might have install wrong? cause that sounds like something is not allowing the pressure plate to work
High Oil Pressure...
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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where have you heard oil filters that are put on too tight cause high oil pressure? i am an automotive technitian and have never heard of this. putting them on too tight just makes it frustrating the next time you gotta take it off. it can olso ruin the gasket causing a leak.