franklinstower

Some say i will never get the rings seated with out a hone, which i am not doing. I had frozen oil rings so i was re ringing only. Non detergent 30 weight should help them seat, correct?

Well I got my new NPR rings - Check out the box: It says Fuji right on it, So I think it gives cred to these being OE. $25.49 Shipped!!

I'm trying to calculate my Compression Ratio for my build, I keep finding conflicting numbers for the EJ22 DP heads: are these corect numbers: Combustion Chamber Volume: 41 cc's Piston Dish Volume: 12 cc's (would that actually be measured like (negative) -12 cc's Thanks

Wow, that is a lot of cylinder pressure. Stock EJ25D and DP EJ22 heads? How thick of head gasket .051"? I was wondering what kind of cylinder pressures the Franks put out.

Especially when it comes to things like the rings. $150 @ the dealer vs $40 on flea bay! I read the Mitsubishi guys love the NPR piston & ring sets.

I am building the EJ25d and EJ22E frankenmotor for my Westy - My oil rings in the EJ25D block are all gummed up so I figure I would install a new set of rings. Listed on the Small Car Performance website (they are local to me in Tacoma) they state they have sourced OE Subaru rings from the Manufacturer - they don't list who the manufacturer is but I have found out they are selling NPR rings calling those rings OE for Subaru. I know they (NPR) do supply OE rings for some Japanese makes, but I have never heard anything conclusive who makes the Subaru rings. Searching here I have not found a lot of info on whether these rings are any good or not. Can anyone chime in with regards to the NPR rings? Good, Bad, no issues? Thanks

I can't seem to find any o-rings for my HLA's. I was cleaning them last night and the solvent I used expanded the o-rings to twice their normal size! So 16 new o-rings are in order. Part # 13396-AA000 My local dealer here in Seattle said the closest place is Virginia. Any know of another source, especially not at Stealership prices? Thanks, Paul

I am not sure on my compressor status. But from my readings, the better choice is to keep everything same and use a refrigerant such as red tek r12a. It is compatible with either oil, operates at lower head pressures, and has larger molecules than 134. Much better suited than retrofit 134 especially with such long runs in my vanagon. Paul.

Is there a difference in the A/C lines and connections between the R12 and R134 compressors or are they the same? So, could I just put a r134 compressor in where I have an R12 without switching the lines? I have a '92 leggy engine in my Vanagon and I want to switch the A/C compressor over to a newer R134 from the current R12 i have in their now. I still have not mated the A/C lines over to my Vanagon yet and want to know if the lines and fittings are the same on both compressors. What year did they switch to R134? Is it correct to assume the older r134 compressor ('95 or so) would fit with out mods? Thanks,

I know there were some power and torque differences on the EJ25D's with the '96 being the lowest output. So if I am going to build a frankenmotor and I want the lowest possible compression ratio, which block do I want? The '96 or the '97 to '99? And how would I tell them apart? Was the difference in the piston design, head design or both? Thanks, Paul

For my vanagon, that torque would be awesome! I rarely go pass about 5000 rpms now, and that is only when I am passing someone in a hurry. my typical rpm range is about 2800 to 3800 so having a full 200 lbs of torque through out those RPMS would suite me fine. with my gearing, I am doing about 70 at 3800 in 4th. I am going to go pick up the EJ25D long block next week, I don't know the mileage on it, but it was reported to only have a HG leak. Hopefully no bent rods, spun bearings etc. And Delta is only 30 miles away!

I have been reading up alot on the frankenmotor but I still have a few questions. What I want is more power for my Vanagon but without doing a whole new harness. I currently have a '92 EJ22 installed, with the matching ECU and harness all from the same donor Legacy. From what I have read, the two easiest options to get more power are A then B, but what about C and D: A) just install some Delta Torque Cams - probably looking at 8-10 more HP and more lowend torque. My ECU should be okay with this, but I might have a slight lumpy idle, is that correct? Swap to a EJ25D block, use my heads with stock cams, intake manifold, ECU etc. get a lot more HP. probably closer to 160-180? And I am correct that my ECU will run this without a problem? What is anticipated CR using stock thickness HG's (.040"?) C) Same as abouve but with Delta Torque Cams - Will my ECU be okay with that? from what I have read - maybe not? Probably better at that point to make up a new harness to run the OBD11 ECU and intake? D) finally, what about a 257 block and my EJ22 heads, OBD1 intake, wire harness - A little less compression but still probably in the 160 range? has this been tested yet? And again, my goal is to have the smoothest, most powerful, most cost effecient engine with some more hp using my already modified OBD1 wire harness. I know the OBD11 harness and ECU are a better match, but at this point, I am not quite ready to make up a new harness and I don't have the matching intake and sensors. Thanks, Paul

Its on its way to you Russ. Thanks for the help. Of course Smart service was all over it as soon as she showed up with the tow truck. I feel you get one chance to provide a suitable offer, no do-overs in this case....I don't know if it was just because she is a girl, or not. But the reality is All Wheel Drive specialists were doing a lot more including the t-stat, idlers, water pump and two reman'd heads for a lot less. Thanks GD for the offer. I was pushing for you to do it, just because I know she doesn't have a bunch of cash, (and a non-mechanical hubby). I could have made it easy too since our friend drives to the 'Couv every monday for work. Now on to my project - A freind just gave me a EJ25D long block - I already have a '92 EJ22 in my Vanagon - so its now frankenmotor time! I want to keep the compression as low as possible like between 10:1 and 10.5:1 is that possible with that combo? EJ25D block and '92 EJ22 dp heads.

no the job included the T-Belt service, just not replacing the water pump and idlers, only inspecting them. She was due for the Timing belt job anyway. she has 103k on it and was planning on doing it after christmas. I am consulting her about getting it to portland right now.

I just got a hold of the estimate, 100% leak down in #4, visual inspection after dropping the exhaust confirms that a guide has slipped preventing a valve from closing, I assume one valve and probably an exhaust? it didn't say on the report. Anyway, total parts and labor for the job was $4k OUch! Didn't include new water pump or idlers on the T-belt job. Personally I think those should be replaced at the time of the service just as a course of preventive maintenance. Thoughts?

Another question: are valve guides dropping or slipping a common problem on the SOHC engines? Why would the shop want to pull the engine to replace the head. Can't that be done with the engine in? Also they are recommending six star head gaskets, I am unfamilar with those. any thoughts on those? I asked the tech if he was going to use a cometic gasket and he looked at me with puzzlement? So basically, I just don't want her to get ripped off. $3200 seems high to install head gaskets, timing belt service and possibly replace one head. Also I don't understand why they don't just have the existing head rebuilt with new guides and lap the valves. Does this model have HLA's or roller rocker? Could that have caused the problem with the leak down results? sorry for ignorant questions, I am a ph1 ej22 guy. Thanks, Paul

My coworker just had a head failure in her 2003 forester with 102k miles. She dropped it off at SMART subaru service and they performed a leak down which showed a 100% leak in cylinder 2. The mechanic said the valve guide slipped and is preventing the valve from closing causing the problem. How he could tell that from a leak down test, I don't know. Anyway, they want to charge her about $3200 to replace the head with a new one, do both head gaskets, and the timing belt and idlers etc. I would do this for her, but a) don't have time, and my wife would be suspicious of me doing this favor for this incredible hot co-worker. So any recomendations for a seattle are shop or any one locally want to do this as a side job? Thanks, Paul