subarurx

make sure you re-tourque the heads at least 3 times. bring the car up to operating temp, and then let it cool down, and re-torque them, on the last one add another 5pounds to it and you should be ok. forget this, and you will do a head gasket. I run 14psi in mine, and it is the only way I am told to keep the heads under control. also, if you are doing it up, add a legacy radiator, and fans to imprve the cooling, ans they tend ot get a bit hot when you start to wind them up. 15-16psi is is high as I would go, and not without a FMIC, as anything over 10psi is a waste without one. also, I know of one, with a top mount IC, running a legacy turbo, which saw 18-20psi without to much of a problem, and ran a season of rallies with no real fuss. personally, I thimnk that is pushing it a bit, but 14-15psi is good power and fun. just remeber to tighten the heads...or you will regret it!

thanks for your help josh, appreciate the feedback.

great, thanks for your help all. the legacy turbo radiator is bigger, and has better flow, which is why I chose it, and to get it to fit isn't too hard., just have to modify the front vallance a bit...and hey presto...much better cooling...which equals a faster rally rx, well I hope so, won't know until the engine build is finished, and th ecar runs it's first shake down test in mid february.

hey all after some help. i have fitted a legacy radiator to my leone, which will hopefully help with the temp problems I have occasionally in stages (esp. the tighter ones). now, what I don't know how to do, is to plumb in the header tank, as the radiator has no cap to fill it. has any one done this, and if so, can you explain, prefer with pics, but words will do. as far as I can see, on a std legact turbo, it flows back into the water/aire intercooler, and then through the system, so with the leone, I was thinking of running it backing to the heater inlet, and plugging off the heater outlet hose that goes to the heater...does that make sense? all suggestions welcome...and required.

hey all after some help. i have fitted a legacy radiator to my leone, which will hopefully help with the temp problems I have occasionally in stages (esp. the tighter ones). now, what I don't know how to do, is to plumb in the header tank, as the radiator has no cap to fill it. has any one done this, and if so, can you explain, prefer with pics, but words will do. as far as I can see, on a std legact turbo, it flows back into the water/aire intercooler, and then through the system, so with the leone, I was thinking of running it backing to the heater inlet, and plugging off the heater outlet hose that goes to the heater...does that make sense? all suggestions welcome...and required.

a friend had an ex factory, ex possum bourne RX Turbo rally car, a piece of art, and he rolled, bowled and a@#$#led it. I brought the box from him for $NZD600.00 The car had some great gear, and he parted it out...which was a real shame.

do the impreza / legacy boxes fit the leone engine, you could go down that track. the only people I know of that might have done this is UDY Motors, they may have an idea. Try this link for there number. talk to Ivan Udy

not sure, probably wouldn't be too bad. you could always find someone importing car parts in your area, and jack it up so they com in a car, saving you the freight..

sorry, that was from another place (got myself mixed up a bit), these have the right stud pattern (4x140), you could try emailing them, I have tried but not heard anything back from them. PCD is the stud pattern if I am correct. PS, see you have a Merc, if you need Merc parts, then try my sponsors parts. probably cheaper to buy from Nz and ship than from the US

carfreak, if I come accross some that I don't need, then I am happy to do a deal. you could try this link, they have some in 14" for sale, it is in Japan, but worth the try. http://www.ishigami.co.jp/garage/web/a.html

I bought the box built, so not sure how it is done. As it is runnig the WRX RA close ratio kit, it will make your gearing a lot lower, i.e. top speed is now 180km/hr, whereas with the std gearbox and 3.9 dif I had seen over 200 on some of the longer straights on tarmac rally's, but now I just get o 180km/hr in half the time.

I wouldn't recommend that weight, and I only towed it with the car for 1.5yrs, so the long tern effects I am not sure...and the car had been owned since new, and done 88k, so the mileage was really low. The car had air suspension, which didn't like the weight too much and blew an airbag.

yeah, it towed with no real problem, until you had a big hill, then it would only overheat just at the to (we are tlaking about 6-7km and quite steep). FYI, it was a 3 speed auto, with no overdive. the hitch was body mounted...and a factory item that came with the car when we bought it.

I ended up selling the wagon (a car you all would have loved, owned sinced new, done 88,000km) as it used to overheat a bit on the big hills. The Jeep is much better to tow with. carfreak, sorry, they are as rare as hens teeth, it has taken me 12months to track thse ones down, andmore people here are building rally Leones, so they demand is higher, and they are even harder to find now...like you say..blast, cause they are great looking alloys.

just got an email from them, they don't have any with the correct PCD. sorry, haven't got any video, and most of the images I have are online already. simon

where do I start... engine: standard block, oversized mains and std big ends, std crank, std head gaskets, forged pistons and special rings, std gen III heads, std injectors, front mount intercooler turbo: rebuilt, running 14psi, adjustable boost exhuast: matched front pipe with legacy flexi-joint, 3in pipe from the turbo with waste gate pipe, and 2 3/4in straight pipe with one red devil muffler at the rear cooling: legacy radiator gearbox: leone casing with impreza close ratio gear kit (top speed 180km/hr on the redline) , 12kg viscous centre diff, 4.11 front diff, shortened drive shart and 4.11 impreza rear plate diff front suspension: Bilstein adj platform struts, with dyno'd springs (not sure of the rate, adjustable bottom arms and the 2in of castor. Strut brace between the towers rear suspension koni adj platform struts rims: 15 x 13" / 15 x 14" interior: 2 kevlar Autosport seats, 6 point cage with side intrusion and bracing, klippan 3in 6 point belts, sprco intercom, brantz trip meter. It goes real well, but have had a problem with the head gasket going twice thisyear, once as a result of overheating, and the other the result of the mechanic that rebuilt the engine not re-tightening the heads...which only lasted 14km of stage distance. We run pre-92 4WD, which as the name suggests is for 4wd cars build befire Jan 1st 2002. we are up against the legacy's / 323's / Lancers / Galants etc. so it is quite hard to beat them as they have a lot more HP than us, but we can knock a few off usually and get a top twn in the class. As for bending things, no, it is really strong, but our rallies aren't all that rough, although they do have some rough bits in the them. The car is a fun car, easy to drive, easy to run and cheap to fix. If you want to know more, then drop me a line. cheers simon

there are about 15 in New Zealand, of which I have 4. 8 are on two leone wagon here in Auckland, and I am sure there are some more floating about. There are some for sale here I have sent them an email, but not heard a peep from them.

yeah, and they look even better mounted on the rally tires, on the car, better than the 14's I run at present My other 14" tarmac rims

Hey all, I have a set of these on my rally car, just got them a month ago. They are ex-factory rims used so I am told by Possum Bourne many years ago. The ones in the pic have the wrong stud pattern, but are th esame as the ones on my car (I don't have a pic of mine). They are Enkei WRC Spirits...14 x 6in. They are awesome!!!

you could always fit a legacy RS radiator, bit of fabricaiton need, but it is totally do-able. have to wait to get the engine back together before I see the diff, but the size and depth is better than the std leone one.

I run a Mazda 323 BMFR intercooler in front of my radiator (which is now upgraded to a legacy RS), run the pipes over the front cross rail (the one above the radiator) and have a couple of mild bumps in the front of the bonnet to allow them to go over. It makes a huge diff, no heat soak, and my fan runs permenantly behind, thus it is always cool. I have water sprayer for the radiator and intercooler too. It all cost me $NZD50.00 And what a difference over the stock setup. I run 14 -15psi boost, but have forged pistons, and a well checked out block, with oversized rod bolts. Plus, I use it on gravel...which is the best part.

cheers guys.

hey anyone know much about re-tighting the head after you have put on new head gaskets, I am told it needs to be done 3 times (this is a for a subie running 14psi, and being used for rally's) any help would be appreciated. cheers simon

could be fouling the plugs when it is cold, my rally car does that when I first start it, and then once warm it is fine...that's my 2c worth

ultimateRX, my chasis number AA5 - 003662 it is an 1984 Japanese domestic market RX Turbo