TahoeFerrari
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Posts posted by TahoeFerrari
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I've been searching and searching without any luck.
Anyone have a wiring diagram for '87-'89 ea82 spfi or turbo cruise control?? Or maybe a later model Loyale would probably be the same.
Hey moderator, how can I search for terms like "cruise control" AND "wiring diagram" - search function seems to match each word individually even though I've tried various single and double quotes as well as parens to try to get it to search for the specific term I'm looking for??
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With both my EA82s (3-door and wagon) the light comes on when there are 2+ gallons left. At one time or another I've put over 15 gallons in both of them and I often drive 400-450 miles without filling up. According to the original owner's manuals I have for both of them, the fuel tanks are 15.9.
My '82 hatchback tanks are only about 12 gal.
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Wow! That's great news. I was afraid I was going to have to drive around with a mangled fender for quite a while before I found one from a 3-door. Now I might even be able to find one the right color so I don't have to paint anything.
Thanks for the replies.
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Someone hit the left front corner of my 3-door coupe in a parking lot a few weeks back. Bumper and left front marker, headlight, and marker light are trashed. I know that I can get the bumper, marker light, headlight and miscellaneous hardware off of pretty much any body style Subaru, but I'm having trouble locating a front fender.
Does anyone know for sure if the front fenders are the same on a 3-door (or RX) and wagons (or sedans)?? I've taken some measurements and that seem to say they're the same, but they don't look quite the same to my eye . Lots of wagons in the JYs, but very seldom do I see a 3-door body.
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Just a general statement here:
4wd GL 3-door and GL wagons have same wheel base and mechanical parts are pretty much interchangeable (NA to NA and probably turbo to turbo) in my experience. I've got lots of parts on my 3 door that came from wagons - including some from post '89 wagons - which are called Loyales and are AWD. My .02 is that the AWD transmission and rear end from an RX or a later Loyale would bolt right in an '87 3-door. There might be some issues with interior console around the transmission. I think that '87 was also the first year that Subaru offered fulltime 4WD - I recall a friend that used to have an '87 turbo 3-door (not an RX) that was full time 4WD. So the hardware is around to do a conversion though you might have to hunt for it.
Another .02 (OK, that's 4 cents worth). Personally I think AWD is a waste. Most of the time when the roads are dry you just don't need it. Front wheel drive is just fine. AWD is just not as fuel efficient as selectable 4WD just like an automatic a transmission is not as effecient as a manual one. That's why I'm sticking with my old d/r 5 speed Subaru's. I'd love something newer, but not as long as the only option is AWD.
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Anyone have the cam specs for a stock NA (spfi) ea82 cam?
- intake opening & closing points (degrees from TDC) or opening and duration
- ditto for the exhaust
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I have seen with my oun 2 eyes a bolt on spindle. If I remeber right it was on the back of an EA81 2WD wagon. So I know such a thing must exsist. It was a 4 bolt patern, but not semetrical, 2 on each side so to speak.
I've looked at some more 2wd EA81's and no luck. Are you sure that you weren't looking at the brake backing plate held on by 3 bolts ( 2 forward and 1 aft) to the trailing arm??
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See my comments in this thread - http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=313470#post313470
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I have seen with my oun 2 eyes a bolt on spindle. If I remeber right it was on the back of an EA81 2WD wagon. So I know such a thing must exsist. It was a 4 bolt patern, but not semetrical, 2 on each side so to speak.
I'll have to check some more EA81's. So far I've mostly looked at EA82 2wd sedans and 2wd XT's.
Thanks..
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Use the whole trailing arm and make an independant suspension trailer
Waaayyyy too much work! The existing leaf springs and mounts are just fine. I only want to replace the wheels.
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I recently bought a small trailer (1000 lb cap) to tow behind my '89 GL (loyale) wagon. The trailer only has 8" wheels, no spare, and the tires are almost gone. Rather than buying new tires and a new wheel for a spare, I've been thinking about replacing the wheels/tires with 13" Subaru wheels/tires - which I have lots of - and then the spare I use for the wagon will also fit the trailer (or vice versa).
Anyhow, I've seen lots of 2WD ea81 and a some 2WD ea82 (including XT's) based cars from which I can get hubs (either disk or drum - I think disk, sans the rotor, would be lighter). The problem I see is that the rear stub axles for the 2WD cars is welded into the trailing suspension arm. I think I could probably cut the axles out of the trailing arms and weld the remaining stubs to a solid trailer axle but cutting them out would really be a lot of work. So....
Anyone know of a source of axle stubs that would fit the rear hubs from a 2WD Subie??? (I know I could have some made, but that would probably cost more than I'm willing to spend.)
I might also be able to have a have plates made with wheel studs that could bolt to the existing trailer hubs that would take the Subie wheels, but that wouldn't be as strong as a new (and stronger ) axle with new stub axles - the existing one is kind of wimpy. Again, doable but maybe costs more than it's worth.
Other ideas???
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On the 2 - '82 GL Hatchbacks I've had, it came on only with the hi beams.
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I retrofitted my '89 wagon a few months ago. I used an "id" interdynamics kit I bought at Kragen for about $40 (it was on sale). I think it's normally about $55.
I prefer this kit to the one Napa has under their brand name (which Kragen also carries under the original manufacturers name) because 1) it has a charge level guage indicator built into the charging hose and 2) the oil and 134a refrigerant are already combined (there's no separate can of oil).
The wagon really cools well since I converted it. I've been doing a lot of driving up and down the Sacremento & San Juaquin vallys and you know how hot it gets there. With the outside air in the high 90s or even over 100, the inside temp is around 70-75 and the compressor is nowhere near running 100% of the time. This is with a Matsus.h.i.ta compressor what was a dealer installed kit put on by the original owner. I still think the factory Hitatchi compressors are the better a/c system - the one in my 3-door cools even better than the wagon and cycles less frequently.
I've used the same kit in my '66 caddy with equally good results.
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Disconnecting the lower hose will help get old fluid out, but not particulates/sludge that is on the inlet side of the radiator. Edrach's suggestion to pull the radiator is the best method to get that stuff out; might also "backflush" the radiator shile it is out and standing on end.
Also, please note that about half of your old coolant will still be sitting in the engine even after you pull the radiator.
I agree with removing the radiator and backflushing. I do it every time I replace timing belts. I also remove the pipe plugs on the bottom of both heads to drain almost all of the coolant out of the engine block.
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Over the years I've picked up a number of JY EA82 spfi engines - all with 125K-145K miles. They've all gotten 30+mpg (2/3 hiway & 1/3 around town) and they are all still running with one at 220K now. I would think a well tuned carbed engine should do about the same.
You've got to be carefull though. While not a guarantee of a good engine, check at least the following on any JY/used engine you are going to buy - especially if you are selecting/pulling it yourself (even if there is a guarantee, it's a real pain to have to remove and reinstall the replacement engine for the "guaranteed" one!):
1) Turn it by hand (22mm or 7/8" socket wrench on crank pulley nut) through 2 (or more) complete revolutions of the crank. Assuming the timing belts are intact, you should feel the resistance increase as all 4 cylinders go through their compression strokes. The resistance should be the same for each cylinder. Note that the resistance can vary quite a bit from engine to engine depending on how long the engine has been sitting - the longer it sits, the less oil will be left on the cylinder walls and the less comression. If one or the other timing belts are broken, you'll only feel the compression for the 2 cylinders on the side with the intact belt - if those feel good, then the other side will usually be OK as well if there is no other obvious sign of damage. If you have access to a known good engine - or 2 or 3, pull it though by hand (ignition off & pull the coil wire, please) before going to the JY to get a sense of what the compression on each cylinder should feel like. I've used a compression guage while turning an engine by hand and by "popping" each cylinder through the end of the compresson stroke I've gotten readings as high as 40-50 psi for a really good spfi 125K engine that hadn't been sitting too long (once installed and running, that engine had high 150s compressions).
2) Pull the spark plugs and look at them for signs of normal firing color and no oil fouling. If you didn't get the compression you expected in step 1 above, you could squart a little oil in each cylinder at this point, spinning the engine without the plugs, putting the plugs back in, and then turning the engine by hand again to see what the compression feels like.
3) Wipe your finger around in the water inlet & outlet passages - if you get a grayish/whiteish slimy mess on your finger, there probably has been an engine failure (head gasket, cracked head, etc.) letting oil into the water. If the engine is still in the car, look at the radiator inlet/outlet, fill cap, and expansion tank for the same signs.
4) Look at the oil dipstick for signs of water in the oil and remove the oil drain plug and stick you finger in there as well - same advice as for water inlet/outlet.
5) Pull one of the valve covers - especially if you detected something in 3 or 4 - it should be clean in there.
I hope this helps. I'd also like to hear about anyone else's technique for evaluating a used engine.
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If it were me, I'd replace the drums with disc brakes. You should be able to get all the parts you need at a JY for less than $100 (backing plate, hub, rotor, caliper & pads, and brake lines). Even if you have to buy new rotors and pads instead of JY rotors & pads, it shouldn't cost you over $150.
I've done it to both of my EA82's and few for friends and it's about the easiest bolt on conversion I've ever done. It's just so easy to replace disc brake pads compared to brake shoes that that alone makes it worth while, let alone the increased stopping power you have.
If it were me.
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I second Ross's post - a bad intermittant wiper controller can cause the same symptom.
On my '87 3-door it's located on the back of the kick panel above the driver's legs - just to the right of the fuse box. It's very easy to get to. I've yet to find it on my '89 (which has wiper problems). I think it is behind/above the ECU, but haven't had time to take things apart to find it.
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When looking at JY EA82s, there is a fool proof way to tell which models came with LSD. It doesn't require you to look at the label on the diff or spin the tires. Just look very, very carefully at the inboard ends of the rear axle shafts. If there is nothing between them, that model car almost certainly came with a LSD differential.
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How big of a braking difference do you normally see with the rear disks?
I've done the rw disc conversion to both of my ea82's and am going to do it to my one running '82 hatch one of these days.
You most likely will not see any big difference in your around-town or even freeway driving unless you really need to brake hard. Then you will notice 1) - as already mentioned - no rear wheel brake lockup and 2) significantly greater stopping power.
Apparantly Subaru had the rw calipers designed so that they use the same input hydraulic pressure as the drum brake cylinders - very nice (expecially for those of us doing conversions!).
I also originally did the swap due to ease of maintaining the rear pads vs brake shoes, but am very glad I did. I think the rear discs saved my butt on at least one occasion.
FYI: If you pull the discs from a JY car, remember to get 1) the flex line connected to the caliper, and 2) the short hard brake line just before the flex line. With them it's a bolt on conversion. Without, you'll have to do some fabricating. This is in the conversion post but is easily overlooked - especially the small hard line.
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I believe the correct spelling is "PnP". I agree that it can be rewarding - I spend far too much time prowling around the ones in NV and N.CA.
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I think I had the same heating problem many moons ago with my red '82 hatch (the original "TAHO 4RE"). At the time (10+ years ago), it was possible to get the small electronics pack from Subaru to replace the one in the distributor. I remember it being outrageously expensive - even then.
Who told you that you couldn't get just the electronics? If it was not a Subaru dealer, I'd call one or two of them and see - and try to get a part number. Then go online and search with the part number.
If that doesn't work, I would say that your best bet would be to get a JY distributor.
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I finally got around to opening the Scosche SU2020B installation kit I purchased at "The GoodGuys".
I had said I wanted a Metra kit but couldn't find one. Surprize!! All the parts in the Scosche SU2020B kit are stamped "Metra"! One even has the Metra part number ( 99-8900) which I just noticed is the same part number Best Buy uses on their proprietary branded kit - so it's probably made by Metra as well.
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Why, exactly, are you pulling the distributor???
Anyhow, you remember when you moved the flywheel to the 3 timing belt marks instead of the 0 degree (top dead center) mark in order to get the cam sprocket mark pointed straight up? That is why the distributor is pointing where it is. With the flywheel at the zero mark (or top dead center - TDC), the distributor will point to #1 (or #2 if 180 out - the firing order is 1 3 2 4). With the flywheel at the timing belt marks, the dist. will point to where it is now.
If you must pull it, mark the distributor and housing so you can put it back the same way. If you screw it up, you can move the flywheel to TDC - AFTER YOU FINISH with the timing belts and then set the distributor with the rotor pointing to #1 wire. I think there is a post or 2 or 3 describing how to do this if you need help. And you'll need a timing light to do the final adjustment on the timing - which should really be rechecked after installing timing belts anyhow.
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I like black. I've got a black air dam on my 3-door (same color as your old one) and will add a set of RX side skirts (black of course) as soon as I find some.
I don't care much for the rear spoiler, tho. But I would probably paint to match the car (maybe in a subconscious attempt to hide it!)
ea82 cruise control wiring diagram
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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I should have said FSM wiring diagram. I have one "typical cruise control wiring" from a Haynes manual, but it doesn't quite match what's on the car.
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