TahoeFerrari

1987 3DR SPFI 5SPD D/R 340+ k -- 32+MPG OVERALL (AS HI AS 37-38 ON LONG HIWAY TRIPS) 1989 WGN SPFI 5SPD D/R 215+k -- 30+MPG OVERALL

And we think we're so smart! Those early designers/engineers definitely had more fun than we do.

Out of curiosity - assuming both calipers are available, why do all the work of installing 200SX calipers to get rear wheel parking / ebrake when you already have the front wheel parking brake?

Ditto what's already been said about the crank nut. As far as the fan nuts, if you look closely you'll see that there are flats on the hub behind the fan blades that can be held with a 10" crescent wrench to keep the fan from turning and then use a long handled 10mm combination wrench on the nuts. To get them back on a pair of long handled needle-nose pliers can be used to slip the nuts onto the end of the studs and then hold them as you (carefully) start them with a finger tip of your other hand. It requires patience but it can be done with a little practice and - if you're lucky - small hands. As far as timing belts go, they need have the tension checked at least every 30K miles and definitely replaced at 60K - there are many posts about this such as this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74304 Then there is the real inside trick about the fan nuts. Get rid of the mechanical fan and put in an electric. See my comments in this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110298

Here's something I found the other day. The 90A stock Maxima alternator is enough for me, but for those of you intent on turning your car into a monster boom box, lighting the world, or just burning up your wiring: http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/hioual150amp.html Pricey, perhaps, but it would bolt right in - I've got the 90A Maxima alternators on 2 - SPFI EA82s (one inboard and one outboard). One of the easier upgrades I've done - well, except for having to make a .300 pulley spacer (actually anything from about .290 to .320 works).

I've put Maxima alts on EA82s in both the inboard and outboard locations. The Maxima alt fits OK on an 89 (SPFI) EA82 with the alt inboard of the AC compressor. It's very tight, but it can be done. One trick I used so I could use the same V-belt size as with the original alt was to pull the power steering pulley, put the belt on the maxima alt and other pulleys, and then slip the power steering pulley (with the belt already on it) back on the power steering pump shaft. I think that this is probably the only way to use a small enough belt so that you can properly tension it - if you use a larger belt, the alt will not move enough to get the belt tensioned. All of you putting bigger alternators in - don't forget to use a heavier wire for the output of the alt back to the + battery terminal with maybe a 120A fuse/circuit breaker. The Subaru wiring and fusible link won't cut it. I also made an adapter using the Maxima wiring harness connector and a Subaru type connector so I could easily switch back to the original alt for a spare if necessary.

As long as same temp thermostat was used I wouldn't expect any problem, but it's probably not necessary: Some time back I experimented with a couple of EA82s to see if they would benefit from cooler thermostats. What I found is that if the thermostat temp was reduced by more than a few degrees the ECU would think that the engine was not up to operating temp (via the output from the engine-mounted coolant temp sensor) and seemed to run the engines richer that necessary and thus clobbered gas mileage. A change back to the stock thermostat temp and the gas mileage returned to normal. I repeated the cycle twice for about a month each time with 2 different EA82's and got the same results. Note that these were NA SPFI engines, but I would expect the same with a turbo engine. I also did this during the winter/spring when daily temps were cold to cool so it might help in summer but I suspect that during colder parts of the year it could actually hurt.

There is both a thermoswitch (rt lower radiator) and a relay that is controlled by the a/c system (temp or pressure - I'm not sure which). The thermoswitch and relay are in parallel so that either can activate the fan. So even without the a/c, it should work if maybe you're idling in traffic for long periods on a hot day. Fyi, I have replaced the thermostatic fan w/ electric in 2 EA82s and split the function so that the right fan is controlled by the radiator thermoswitch (as before) and the left (new fan - actually old EA81 thin fan) is controlled by the a/c (or a manual switch - just in case). I estimate this gives me a few miles better gas mileage. Indicator lights for the fans show that between 30 and 65 mph on a 95 degree day, neither fan runs except maybe on a long uphill. Over about 70 (on same day), the engine creates enough heat load to turn on the right fan. My conclusion is that the thermostatic fan mostly wastes energy (although if you only had 1 fan, it would probably be more reliable and be better able to produce high volume - maybe necessary in a truck!). I also did the same with a Jeep Cherokee with the same results - a few mpg better gas milage and the fans pretty much never run except on very hot days or heavy loads. Perhaps this is why many new(er) cars have done away with the thermostatic fans and use dual electrics. Amazing - those auto engineers!

Wow, that's very good to know. I searched and searched before posting and found very little info about ECUs. Thanks for the prompt reply. TF

Like the man said, there's not much of anything "performance" about or available for an EA82 Subaru. One thing that will help stopping power is to replace the rear drum brakes with disc brakes if you haven't already done so. You won't notice much difference during normal brakeing, but under hard brakeing the rear wheels won't lock up nearly as easily with the discs and thus you'll have better stops without the rear wheels sliding. Here's the link to that conversion http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49975 I've had good success with non-metalic or "organic" pads. They seem to create less dust that metalics and don't wear out rotors as fast. I think there are ceramic pads available for the front, but I haven't tried them (yet).

Has anyone tried replacing an '87 SPFI ECU (22611 AA200 / MECF-011 / xxxx 3E / N) with an '89 SPFI ECU (22611 AA392 / MECF-022 / xxxx 4E / 42)??? (ECU label differences hi-lighted in red)! The ECU plugs appear to be the same. 1) Are the pin outs the same? (I have info for '89 but not '87). 2) I know there is an extra sensor (EGR gas temp) on the '89 intake manifold. It is wired (w/r) to ECU pin 38. Unplugging it does not seem to make any diff. - no CHECK ENGINE or ECU codes. '89 FSM says it should cause code 55 (California only - which this car is) for open/short, but it doesn't happen! The rest of the stuff on the engines looks to be the same although one or two sensor electrical connectors are different.

Ditto what everyone has said about re-tensioning. During the first 100K or so I had my '87 the driver side belt only lasted 40-50K but never 60. Then I heard about re-tensioning them at 30K and haven't had a belt break since (I know I just jinxed myself!!!). That was about 1991. I actually re-tension them every 20K on 3 SPFI EA82s in the family and change them at 60K. Total miles on the 3 cars: '87 313K, '89-1 240K, '89-2 (the baby) only 200K. For what it's worth, I've NEVER changed idler pulleys or tensioners, but I do change cam seals every belt change - oil is not your timing belts friend. If you cannot do it yourself, you can probably stretch it to 30K before re-tensioning. A knowledgable mechanic should be able to do it in an hour or less. A final word of caution for you low-time do it yourselfers: Be careful tightening the tensioner bolts - use a torque wrench. It's very easy to over torque them and strip out the threads (steel bolts in an alloy block!). Actually this is true for just about everything on a Subaru engine - steel bolts into alloy should always be torqued or if it is just a bolt holding a small bracket or such, tighten them less than you're tempted to. Sorry, I just couldn't resist beating this subject to death just a little more.

A '92 Loyale is an EA82. I looked up the JC Whitney alt. and for approx. $90 I very much doubt that it's 200A. It is very likely a 60A stock replacement. If you read the statement containing the 200A reference: it seems pretty obvious that this is a general statement about Bosch alternators saying that they may "deliver amperage up to 200 amps .... High output available on certain models". I've got '86 Nissan Maxima 90A alternators (that I found out about on the good old USMB) in my '87 and '89 EA82's. They bolt right in, but the Maxima serpentine pulley has to be changed to the Subaru one (preferably one piece and not the split kind) and you have to make or have made a spacer to do this). I've had both of them running for about a year now without any problems. Along with upgraded 6ga cables, 120A Fuses, and an auxiliary battery I use them to run 1200W inverters located under the driver seat to power AC stuff - 750W coffer maker, 750W hot plate, AC drop lights, drills, etc. Very handy out in the boonies.

I use it regularly in 2 - '82 hatches, an '87 3-door, and an '89 wagon - it's very handy on a steeper hills at stop signs / lights though not many of the later here in the Sierras. What surprizes me is the number of Subaru owners that don't know what it is or how to use it. I've educated quite a few over the years and adjusted several for friends with older cars (like mine) that had got out of adjustment. Most then use it for a while - if they remember. Then I think that if they are not regularly in a situation where it would help, they "forget" it's there again - especially if they have another manual transmission non-Subaru vehicle (I've been known to try to use the hill holder in my seldom driven Jeep Cherokee - doesn't work too well!)

BEWARE! Old struts become temp. sensitive so what works in a JY on a warm/hot summer day may very well not work on a cooler/cold winter day.

It might drive even better if there was more air in the right rear tire!

I have an '87 GL (what the early Loyales were called) 3-door - which is mechanically nearly identical to your '92 wagon. It just rolled over to 300K miles about a month ago. The original engine lasted for 265K miles, but wasn't worn out yet. My old mechanic retired & the new one stripped a lot of bolts on the oil pump, timing belt tensioners, exhaust, etc. while doing a major timing belt / oil pump gasket / miscellaneous gasket service. He opted to replace the engine for me rather than helicoil the threads on all the stripped bolts. In fairness, I think many of the bolts had already been overtightened before he got to it, so I still use him for things I don't want to mess with. Other than that, only things that you'd expect to wear out or sometimes fail had been replaced - like brakes, front axle CV joint boots, the radiator, and the starter solenoid copper contacts. I have several friends (well 1 or 2, anyhow) that own GLs/Loyales with over 200K miles and all of them are alive and well to the extent of how well they are maintained. The front fenders can easily be replaced - they are 100% bolt on. I don't know about Vancouver (really nice place), but around here it's possible to find the same year paint code fenders in a JY for around $25 each so they are nearly a perfect match for the original paint since they have been weathered just about the same. So change the oil regularly, keep the tires inflated properly, and generally don't drive around with an obvious problem - it'll just compound whatever is wrong. I plan to keep driving my '87 GL 3 door and '89 GL wagon (only 190K miles!) for at least another 10 years! Good luck

The idea of using a relay is the way to go. Here's how I did it without cutting or splicing into any of the wiring. This is my "plug and play" approach that I've had working in my '89 GL wagon for a few years now. Unfortunately I don't have a digital camera to provide pictures, but here's a wiring diagram and a description of the circuit and how it works. Normally, power is provided via F10 (or possibly F12) to the "Power Window Relay". When this relay is energized, it provides power from a green fusible link to the window switches and thus to the window motors. The problem is that F10 is only hot when the ignition switch is in run (or start). You could apply 12v - via a fuse, of course - to the circuit side of F10, but you would also be applying power backwards through F10 to the 12v bus and everything that is powered by the ignition switch when in "run" - not a good idea. Instead, I devised the circuit described here that allows power to be applied to the window relay (and the turn signals and the backup lights which are also on F10) without all the rest of the "ignition run" circuits. 1. With the ignition off, fused power is obtained from a fuse tap on F20 (power door lock circuit) - which is hot all the time - and applied through the momentary SPST switch and the normally closed contacts (87A - 30/51) of the deenergized (head light) relay to the F10 window relay circuit. Note that the upper 2 sockets of the add-a-circuit are not connected, thus power is not applied to the upper pin of the 15A fuse in the add-a-circuit socket and thus not back through the fuse to the "ignition run" circuits. 2. When the ignition is in "run", power is applied to F10 which causes the (head light) relay to energize and apply power to the window relay via the now closed contacts (87 - 30/51) of the (head light) relay. 3. The reason for the momentary SPST switch is to aviod accidentally leaving power applied to the window relay (and maybe to the backup lights - if the tranny is in reverse - and/or the turn signals - if the turn switch is not in the neutral position). Thus no accidental dead battery! 4. The reason for the (head light) relay is to switch between different sources for power to the window relay - F20 and the SPST switch when the ignition is off or the normal path through f10 when the ignition is on. Parts needed: 1 - Littelfuse ATO 'Add-a-Circuit' p/n FHA200BP or OFHA0200ZP Pep Boys about $9 Napa about $17 1 - Fuse tap Napa package of 4 - p/n 784601 $?? ? - male and female spade connectors - Radio shack $??? 1 - Headlight relay and socket $??? - I got mine out of a Jeep Cherokee in a JY for a few $. Look in engine compartment on right side - there should be 3 or 4 of them there. ? - wire - at least 18ga 1 - SPST-MOM (Single Pole, Single Throw, momentary) switch Radio Shack $4?? windckt.pdf

I think you said it at the end of you post "...this is assuming that most stock carbs suck". If you want a reliable street car, FI is the way to go. I would only consider a carb on a special use performance machine and then only if FI was not an option. I've owned many cars with carbs - and still have two. There is no comparison in my book - fuel injection is much better. I've never had any significant problems with my 2 spfi EA82s (or my Jeep Cherokee 4.0L) and essentially have never had to do anything with them (combined over 500K miles on the EA82s and 200K on the Jeep). On the other hand, the carbs required ongoing regular maintenance and tuning. With the EA82s, the only diagnostic tool that I ever needed was the trouble code light on the ECU. BTW - There are some '87 spfi d/r 5 speeds around - mostly here in CA I think. Also if you can't find a decent '88-'89 and you're not adverse to a little work, you might consider getting a 90+ Loyale with the push button 4wd 5 speed and swap in a d/r 5 speed from a '85-'89 Subaru.

Ditto what subyrally says about Accel wires. I believe that Accel does make a set specifically for an EA82, but for about the same price you can get the generic V8 set and make 2 sets for an EA82(or EA81) - if you don't mind doing the work of cutting and terminating wires (and they come in COLORS!). Of course if you've only got one car ..... maybe you can split the cost with a friend (if you can agree on the color)! I also ran the 45K coils for quite a while with original Subaru 7mm plug wires with out any problems. I did make sure they were clean and undamaged though - used a rag with brake cleaner on it to wipe them down. In fact I didn't really notice any difference when I put in the 8mm wires.

I've had MSD-8222 (that's the epoxy version) coils in a couple of SPFI EA82's for a few years now - no problems at all. Plug and play. But I regapped the plugs to .051. The higher voltage over the wider gap is what gives a fatter spark. $5 more than oil filled version. I've also put the Summit Racing house brand 40K volt epoxy coil in another EA82 recently - again with .051 plug gaps. Only been a month and a few K miles, but it seems to be OK and is about $15 less than MSD-8222. Have 8mm plug wires on all. I've never heard anything about frying plugs if left at stock gap, but if you're going to take advantage of a high output coil, the larger plug gap is necessary to develope a fatter spark. If the gap is left the same, the spark will be pretty much the same as a stock coil. It only takes a given amout of voltage to jump an air gap. The bigger the gap, the more voltage you need to cause a spark - hence the high output coils. I also agree with what has been said about not needing a ballast resistor. A resistor is only needed with ancient breaker point type ignitions.

I agree with what has been said about 2" receiver and rear discs. I don't know of any retail hitches for Loyales. I welded my own and used .25" x 2.5" angle iron at the ends so that I could bolt it on where the tie down loops are after redirected the tail pipe out to the side. I got longer flange bolts so I could retain the tiedown loops on top of the angles used to mount the hitch. If you replace the bolts be sure they are of equal hardness to the originals. I think that under normal circumstances (no shock loads), the structure is strong enough as long as it is rust free. I regularly load about 1000# of engines, trans, etc. in the back of my '89 spfi d/r wagon and have no real problems running around - it averages about 6000' above sea level here so I've effectly only got about 70 hp - except on long hills where I often have to run in 3rd gear at about 35-40 mph or sometimes less. I also tow a 1200# trailer with the same results (although usually with a light load in the wagon). I've never had any problems getting going, but I've never really had to go from a dead stop on a steep hill. I also try to keep the combined weight of the wagon and trailer below about 4500# - which is about 700# (or 20%) over the rated max for the wagon. I can't stress the importance of getting the rear discs - it really makes a difference on when it matters most - like on a long down hill with a lot of weight. I originally had drums, but they just didn't do much at all. You probably won't notice much difference on a normal stop, but under hard braking the difference is very noticeable. All in all, pay attention to what you are doing and drive carefully you should be fine.

I think the idea about getting an EA81 cam reground to more closely resemble the performanc of the EA82 cams is on the right track. Even without doing that, I would expect that you'd get more power and torque with the spfi setup, but probably at a higher rpm than the carb'd EA81 - because (unless you've got something like a megasquirt) the ECU thinks you have an EA82 engine in there and is programmed to the performance curves of the EA82 cams. I don't understand what the problem is about needing the torque way down low unless you are already crawling in low range 1st gear. Otherwise gear down and run higher rpm's. If you're already in low range 1st my only questions would be is what size tires you have and exactly what cliff are you trying to scale? My experience is that the low range gearing allows some pretty slow speeds with reasonably high rpms. I've got all the spfi parts (I think) and am going to try and put it in my '82 hatch ("Blue Eye Cyclops") one of these days which I only use off road these days - although I admit I'm not doing any rock crawling with it.

Ditto to what everyone has said about retensioning. It really should be done. I've got a total of 520K miles on 2 EA82 spfi engined Subies and have never had a broken a timing belt. Change them at 60K miles along with cam seals, replace idlers and tensioners as needed, and retension every 20K miles to coincide with oil change, or other maintenance - like replacing / retensioning V belts and other routine stuff that should be done (but often isn't). Once you've done it a few times, it really doesn't take all that long (of course, I got rid of the thermo clutch fan in favor of an electric - which makes the job that much easier!)

Its a very simple and reliable system. In 292K on my 3-door (did replace the engine underneath it at 262K though) and 165k on my wagon, I've had essentially zero problems with the SPFI. And - since I see you're in Michigan - no cold starting issues. Like previously stated, (much) better gas milage and any sensor malfuntions are indicated on the ECU via blinking light codes. And if you're worried about parts, pick up a spare TB and a few related sensors and carry them along (I do that on long trips, although I've never needed tham). Via a pull it yourself JY it shouldn't cost more than about $50 for the spares.