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Everything posted by venicebean
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saw your post in my other thread.. I would just do the struts and see how you end up. Just make sure to mark the position of the front strut mount bolts on the lower mount (actually it's just the one that's the camber bolt, I just forget if it's the top or bottom bolt) do some more searches here, there's a lot of info and I believe a link to a step by step guide to doing the struts from another site with photos. If your camber is off after doing the struts it will be corrected with the stock camber bolt (only in the front) and you'll have to add aftermarket camber bolts if you can't get it correct. You'll need to take it in for alignment after your done anyway, so have them take care of it. This is from my experience of doing it to my 95 legacy wagon, it might be slightly different for your car, but should be about the same. good luck.
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I did get camber in the front after lifting it, but this was corrected with the one stock camber bolt (one of the two lower strut mount bolts) The trailing arm bracket swap does not correct camber, it just move the rear wheel back a little bit to center it in the wheel well, which is more like correcting the caster. I didn't really need to do this, I just wanted it to be centered and allow for more space if I get bigger tires later.
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so it looks to be the front passenger side axle shaft that's the problem as well as possibly the same side wheel bearing. I called my subaru mechanic about prices and this is what he gave me: right front axle shaft (full axle assembly) $360 new subaru, $190 remanufactured subaru, $95 aftermarket. $75 Labor. I figured I'd go with the remanufactured subaru route. And for the wheel bearing I was quoted $285 parts and labor. I was thinking to have him do the wheel bearing anyway since as far as I understand you need a press for this? So might as well have him do the axle as well. Do these prices seem fair? I was looking at the axle shaft at subarugenuineparts.com and 1stsubaruparts.com but can only find the individual cv joints/boots, am I missing something? Does anyone have a good source for the full front axle assemblies including inner and outer cv joints?
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by the way, I also swapped out the rear trailing arm bracket with an outback one which seemed to center the wheel pretty well. I'm hearing a little bit of noise from the front inside CV joints after doing the lift so I will be checking that out this weekend. There was very slight noise from one side when turning before I did the lift, but now it seems to be from both sides when going 25-40 mph, mostly going straight. Not sure if I moved something out of place when putting in the struts. It's not a loud noise, but definitely sounds like a CV joint.
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actually the picture shows the forester spring next to legacy spring, but legacy springs and outback springs are the same 95-99 as far as I understand. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111093&page=6 doesn't really help you though since you're trying to determine if outback strut > forester strut, maybe someone else can chime in about that since all I know is from searching this forum (which has been great)
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I believe the outback struts are taller than the forester struts, but I'm not certain. Though I'm fairly certain the outback struts' spring perch is higher than the foresters', so they allow more clearance for bigger tires. The forester springs are taller than the outback springs, check the trashwagon post, he has some good pics of the two springs next to each other (maybe page 6 or so).
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got the fronts in this weekend, took forever to get the lower strut mount bolts off. I didn't have a breaker bar at first, which is obviously critical for the stubborn ones. went pretty smoothly after borrowing a breaker bar from a neighbor. gained 2.5" measured to the front fender. I'll start a new thread and post some pics. I plan on finishing up the rears this weekend. ended up with some camber on the front wheels after the lift, hopefully can take care of that with some adjustment to the factory elliptical bolt or whatever it's called.
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I would avoid a car at a dealer that they just replaced transmission, sounds a bit fishy. if you are in Seattle, you may want to check these guys out, I ran across them when researching head gasket issues. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/ http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/ maybe they can direct you to a reliable car for sale.
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good resource for all the info on different year subarus: http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive95_97.html http://www.cars101.com/outback_archive95-97.html as far as I understand, 95 is the first year of the outback and it had only minor cosmetic differences from the legacy, in 96 the outback started to have the suspension lift and 2.5L option. If I were you I would go for the 96 outback 2.2 if you ever plan to go offroad. I actually just got a 95 legacy wagon, but kind of wish i went for the 96 outback. I'm currently putting in KYB outback struts so I can fit some better tires. good luck.
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hey newsoobdude, thanks for the response.. I'm in venice beach. i was definitely going outback kyb struts since I have read that the forester strut spring perch is a little lower. just considering swapping in the forester SPRINGS for more height instead of sticking with stock legacy springs (which i believe are same height as outback springs, just the struts that are different)
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I have a stock 95 legacy wagon L and plan to upgrade the struts to gain more clearance and allow larger tires. My question is could I go with KYB struts along with Forester springs and Outback trailing arm bracket without having to do the crossmember block drop? I only plan to go with BFG AT 195/75 r14 on stock rims at first, but wanted to have the option for larger tires at a later date hence the desire for more lift. I've read through alot of the other threads on the issue, just wanted to get some final opinions before I proceed. thanks for the help, this site is great!