Colin823

Don't mean to bump and old thread, but I thought I'd show my air cleaner I finished the other day. I cut a hole in the factory cleaner and welded the weber baseplate in its place.

im having trouble wiring up the headlight switch on my 81 gl hatch. My dash bezel was cracked and broken, so i bought a new one from a mid 80's hatch. When i got the dash bezel, i realized that the wiring was different on the newer switch compared to mine. My switch is on the left, and the new one on the right. The newer one has an extra wire that mine doesnt have. The extra wire is traced in blue. The two wires traced in green each have their own terminal and seprate slots in the plug. The new ones splice into one and go to a slot. I figured that i could just switch the wires around in the plug on the newer one, but it wont work. Does anyone know how i should wire this up without burning up anything? I realize i could swap the switches, but mine is worn out compared to the new one and i figured i could use the new one if it will work. Thanks

cutting out the entire rusted area and welding in new metal is your best bet. Although, not everyone knows how or has the tools to do so. The next best option would be to cut out the rusted area, and then put some fiberglass mat onto it, rough shape it, skim it with body filler, etc.

ea81 hatch 5 spd Manual Weber 32/36 DGEV Electric Choke emissions delete ngk plugs blocked off EGR Cat Delete schaeffers 5w30 synthetic About 34 or 35 Highway an around 28-29 around town

yes i did. Thought i posted it, but i guess i didnt. One day, i went through everything with a fine-tooth comb. Turns out that the part of wiring harness that runs across the bottom of the radiator was rubbing against the AC hardlines and exposed wires and they started shorting out and causing voltage drops. At one point, it was using the hardlines to complete the circuit somehow when i turned off the key, and would stay running even when i unhooked the battery and took it out.

Just a little update. Its still running the same. Surging at around 2000k even with the weber carb. Its a daily driver so i havent had the time to drop the tank and clean out the hoses. Got lots of stuff going on. The fuel filter in front remains clean and full all the time. Tried looking for vacuum leaks but havent found any. Another issue has reared its ugly head also. When i turn on the key, all the dash lights come on and stay on. They used to shut off after a few seconds after fireup, but remain on until i shut it down.

Does anybody know if a ea82 distributor(carbed) will fit an ea81(also carbed). Ive heard it does but you have to change the little gear on the end, but i just want to be 100% sure.

yeah i did. I pulled the inlet fitting off the hitachi and put it right before the carb inlet.

So i finally got my weber and put it on. Ditched emissions and plugged all unnecessary vacuum ports. Replace fuel filter and added another inline right before the carb. Set my timing at 10* and adjusted the carb. Runs ALOT better then before. Slight Surge is still there but not as bad. I dont feel like im going to be thrown from it anymore. Its not jumping at 2500rpm anymore but all through out the rpm range. Still has a slight miss but not as noticeable. Another issue thats happening now is its dieseling after i shut it off.

Pulled all the plugs today and theyre a perfect cardboard color.

Thanks for the help. i have a weber carb kit on the way. ill pickup up a fuel tank sealer kit from eastwood and see how everything goes

Yeah about a year ago, it started shutting off and eating up caps and rotors like no other. Had lots of play in the shaft so i got one from the junkyard. Im pretty sure the tank does have rust in it. Fuel filtr turns brown after a while. Be a good idea to drop it and clean it it out?

It is the hitachi and it does have all the original emissions stuff. Im sick of the hundred million vaccuum lines going to it and i dont have emission laws where i live so im thinking of just ditching the hitachi alltogether. U read my mind because ive been thinking about picking up a weber 32/36 from redline. Simplify it and toss the emissions crap. The only thing is, if a new carb wont solve the problem, what will?

Need help Here .Have an ea81 81 gl hatchback here and shes been having s bit of a problem. Awhileback, it started surging out of nowhere. It sounds like its missing alot. While Holding a constant throttle, once you get up to 2000-2500 rpm, the thing bogs down and drops to 1k, then itll go back up to 2500 again and then drop again. It acts like its not even firing at all, like the whole thing just shuts down but gets up again. This happens more severley around the 2k to 2.5k rpm but you can also slighlty feel it around 65mph. Lately its been getting worse and wont hold an idle very well in the mornings. Ive replace cap, rotor, wires, rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the distributor, replaced ignition coil. Ive checked for vaccuum leaks and havent found any. Carb fuel bowl looks fuel all the time but the fuel seems to just trickle into the rear filter. Never had a filter up front. CHecked all my grounds and fuses and they look good. Even thought it might be my cataytic converter so i removed it. Still does the same thing and havent been able to diagnose the problem. Anybody had this problem before? any help would be appreciated

once i finish my current project, im thinking about redoing my 81 hatch inside and out. CLean up the rust, body work, ej series engine, and a full on fiberglass dash. Them pics make me jealous and even more eager to start!!