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UPDATE :: My ignition timing was reading -12 all the time, according to Subaru dealership's computer. I replaced the knock sensor with one from eBay and it now shows the correct timing. Unfortunately, the problem persists and is no better. I had the computer cleared three times by Subaru and I ran the tar out of the car in hopes of clearing up anything stuck or clogged, but to no avail. I remember having error code P0420 when I first got the car (August), and I had it also about a month ago when pulling a big, long hill. Since then I've ran through some cleaner in the gas had the code cleared, and have not heard of it since. I'm not sure how the CAT is, but the dealership said they could count the number of bad converters on one hand. So my thoughts are, replace Oxygen sensors now? Any other thoughts?

I wonder when I see two knock sensors on ebay such as here: Cheaper one More expensive one Thoughts?

No the CEL DEFINITELY works...trust me. It come on when I turn the key half way. I had a heck of a time tracking a neutral safety switch error code to an old shorted out 3rd party security system I was barely even aware of. Turns out it was also causing my car to periodically not start. Then the CEL was on for the first four months I had the car. :-\

Nope, as I mentioned before my CEL is not on, and it is working. Lots of folks are thinking knock sensor but I'd hate to spend the $90 on it and have it not be a problem. Still haven't decided what to do yet...but leaning toward replacing the knock sensor first and/or the plug wires (not sure in which order). I think Subaru dealership will "diagnose only" for $35. I wonder if I went if they could tell me specifically what was wrong and save me from buying parts I don't need (yet)? Or perhaps they will take my $35 and guess without doing any testing. Anyone have experience doing this?

Thanks, those are three good places to check then... plug wires, vacuum leak, and knock sensor. I wonder how the cold is affecting things...

No check engine lights after I fixed the previous problems. I had before a throttle position sensor (new sensor fixed that problem) and a neutral safety switch (problem was a shorted out security system...took forever to find that one!) That was about three months ago now and no lights since then. And it does come on before starting the car when it's on "run"...so light is working

Thanks! No I did not replace the wires, although I thought about it. Does that count? But I did look them over pretty good, and they didn't seem to have any cracks, wear, burnt spots, etc. I think it's possible it might be them but also wonder what else could cause this problem? Thanks for the reply!

Just to add to the discussion... I was looking to get a set of Continental ExtremeContact DWS 205/55/16 tires. I called everywhere locally, and everywhere was the same...$130 per tire, mounted and balanced. I looked online, found then at Discount Tire Direct (cheaper than TireRack) for $404 with shipping, etc. I then had them mounted and balanced with stems for $10 per tire. So total I spent $444 instead of $520 by going online. Now I am all for local purchasing, but not at that kind of difference

Hi. Not sure if we're having the same problem or not, but at any rate I'll be keeping an eye on your thread. Here's mine: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=996812

Hey folks, I was hoping to get some ideas on a tricky problem I'm having on my '98 Subaru Legacy GT Limited (AT, 2.5L). Maybe someone has had something similar happen? I bought this car back in August after it had not been driven for about a year, and before that, driven by a girl who did no maintenance on the car whatsoever. It has 160k miles. Here’s my problem: Lacks power going up hills and when accelerating Occasionally car has bursts up to normal power when in “crippled” mode Let me explain in detail… Going up larger hills (I live in the mountains) sometimes takes the petal to the floor to get up. Sometimes when going up these hills in “crippled” mode I will get a second or so “burst of power” during which the RPMs will raise slightly. This will repeat maybe once or several times in a row rapidly. The problem is much more noticeable when it’s cold outside (considerably worse when it’s 30 F or below), but also when the car itself is cold. It seems to have okay power in lower gears (1st / 2nd) when climbing hills, but if ever I am in anything higher, it’s like I’m towing a boat behind me. During this time the gas petal seems largely unresponsive throughout ¾ of its range (ie…pressing it ¼ or ¾ of the way down does not seem to change anything where normally it would cause a downshift). That’s basically it. Here’s what I’ve done: Cleaned throttle body New fuel filter Clean air filter Throttle body position sensor (was bad…new one adjusted by Subaru) Also throttle stopper screw adjusted by Subaru Cleaned Mass Air Flow sensor New spark plugs (using NGK BKR5EGP 7090)…these are same specs as the recommended plugs but are the “platinum” version instead of the “double platinum” version New timing belt (old one was installed backwards…doh!) Can of seafoam in gas…several times. New oil change New shifter cable and neutral safety switch (had bad old one) Can anyone verify if the spark plugs are definitely causing this? Recommended part number is: NGK PFR5B-11 if you want to check the specs and compare. Another possibly related issue is that the engine has a tick noise on one of the cylinders/valves. A lot of Subarus have this I think but usually it goes away after it warms up (but not with mine). I am up for any suggestions and thoughts! Let me know if I can clarify anything… Thanks guys! -Jon