el_freddo
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Status Replies posted by el_freddo
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Hey Bennie. Like your answer to rack and pinion removal.
Here is another question. I took out a front Cv axle and was taking it apart to check for wear. I though I could scrounge parts from other axels and make one good one.
I am having trouble removing the inner race from the CVJ that joins to the transmission. My manual says to turn cage a bit and ...blah blah...but it doesn't turn. Should I use a mallet and try to tap it out. ?
Looking at the ball bearings, they look find.
Boot ok, but why not replace with a new one I think.
Can't see wear without separating inner race from cage.
Any tips.? thanks Bennie
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Hey Bennie. Like your answer to rack and pinion removal.
Here is another question. I took out a front Cv axle and was taking it apart to check for wear. I though I could scrounge parts from other axels and make one good one.
I am having trouble removing the inner race from the CVJ that joins to the transmission. My manual says to turn cage a bit and ...blah blah...but it doesn't turn. Should I use a mallet and try to tap it out. ?
Looking at the ball bearings, they look find.
Boot ok, but why not replace with a new one I think.
Can't see wear without separating inner race from cage.
Any tips.? thanks Bennie
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1:25 mark is where you’ll find what you need. As I mentioned, it’s been a number of years since I’ve fully stripped a CV joint to this level. The video shows exactly how it’s done, right down to the screwdriver wiggle.
Hopefully this gets you what you need to move forward and sort out the issue
Cheers
Bennie
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Hey Bennie. Like your answer to rack and pinion removal.
Here is another question. I took out a front Cv axle and was taking it apart to check for wear. I though I could scrounge parts from other axels and make one good one.
I am having trouble removing the inner race from the CVJ that joins to the transmission. My manual says to turn cage a bit and ...blah blah...but it doesn't turn. Should I use a mallet and try to tap it out. ?
Looking at the ball bearings, they look find.
Boot ok, but why not replace with a new one I think.
Can't see wear without separating inner race from cage.
Any tips.? thanks Bennie
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Yeah that’s what I’m talking about. You can either pop the balls out with a small bit of force or rotate the centre piece as if it’s still on the shaft but further than it would go with the shaft fitted. It will most likely take a little bit of force again to rotate out.
It’s been a number of years since I’ve pulled one of these apart!
As for the brumby shaft, it only seems to do it when it’s cold. It’s weird. I’ve already replaced the boot and added more grease to that shaft. It hadn’t gone very far before this issue arose. Now the other side has started leaking grease through a small hole. Not concerned about longevity for either shaft.
Quite lucky to have my brumby, got it before the prices went nuts and built it out of parts with my time as the price buffer even back then.
Hunt around, you’ll be surprised about what you’ll find out there on both ends of the scale. You will probably find one from a farmer that’s got one tucked out the back that needs some work, these are the affordable ones these days!
All the best with the search if you’re serious about it.
Cheers
Bennie
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Hey Bennie. Like your answer to rack and pinion removal.
Here is another question. I took out a front Cv axle and was taking it apart to check for wear. I though I could scrounge parts from other axels and make one good one.
I am having trouble removing the inner race from the CVJ that joins to the transmission. My manual says to turn cage a bit and ...blah blah...but it doesn't turn. Should I use a mallet and try to tap it out. ?
Looking at the ball bearings, they look find.
Boot ok, but why not replace with a new one I think.
Can't see wear without separating inner race from cage.
Any tips.? thanks Bennie
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OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer, in this case the Subaru shafts.
Since you asked about Repco and ebay shafts I thought you were looking into getting new shafts, hence why I shared my experience with repco shafts.
It’s near impossible to bend driveshafts in a Subaru. If the shaft itself will fail you’ll find it will sheer off at the weakest point.
Ah now I understand what you’re asking about the inner race from the cage. The centre section should be able to be rotated beyond its normal range of motion when the shaft is fitted. This will allow you to remove a ball or two. Work your way around to get all the balls out and pull the ball race component completely apart.
Cheers
Bennie
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Hey Bennie. Like your answer to rack and pinion removal.
Here is another question. I took out a front Cv axle and was taking it apart to check for wear. I though I could scrounge parts from other axels and make one good one.
I am having trouble removing the inner race from the CVJ that joins to the transmission. My manual says to turn cage a bit and ...blah blah...but it doesn't turn. Should I use a mallet and try to tap it out. ?
Looking at the ball bearings, they look find.
Boot ok, but why not replace with a new one I think.
Can't see wear without separating inner race from cage.
Any tips.? thanks Bennie
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G’day Rae,
The inner ball race is held on the shaft with a circlip, it’s often covered in grease on the end of the shaft. Once this is removed the whole race slides off relatively easily.
If you’re not at the point of having the cup off the race, there’s a big C clip that needs to be removed. Use a flat head screw driver to lever this out from the inside of the cup - you need to remove the boot to do this.
The outer CV joint needs to be hammered off - just a quick blow to the inside part of the ball race that lives on the shaft. There’s an internal C clip that holds the race to the shaft. Once it’s moving the race will come off easily, the trick is to get it moving before the whole thing breaks apart from smashing it.
As for replacement drive shafts there’s not a lot of options out there if your OEM units are shot. Repco is your best bet for the best quality units - even then they’ll start clicking after a thousand k’s or less, one of mine on my brumby clicks away when turning.
Cheers
Bennie
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El Freddo, Majordad here in Brissy. Picked up a 4spd dual range for my Brumby the other day to replacing existing box that's leaking oil (310000kms). Trying to get the Box extension housing off to have look see inside and does not seem to want to lift up more than 4-5mm despite my prying with several screwdrivers. What am I missing here ?
On another note, Ausubaru.com no more, assume not enough of us ols Suby owners to support it ? Barry
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Hey Barry,
Firstly, Ausubaru isn't working great. It's still there - just!
To access, use modzilla Firefox or an old version of internet explorer. Then it works perfect. Otherwise it's one page every couple of hours.
The good news is that AndyT has all the forum's data and is in the process of transferring this to a new interface. So it's just a matter of time before she's all apples again - I can't wait!!
Now, the gearbox:
To remove the rear extension housing I believe that you need to pull all the 4wd engaging mechanism and all the associated rods/slides too. Then I think you need to get a small bolt on the selector shaft removed - but I could be wrong on this (I've not pulled a 4spd apart - yet).
Once you can move the selector shaft away from the selector forks further in the gearbox I think you'll be able to pull the rear extension housing off. It won't be an easy or fun job. Reassembly of a pt4wd box is not fun.
Awd boxes are soooo much easier by comparison!!
I hope you get it sorted!
Cheers
Bennie
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