keithap

I went and got the square tool to turn the piston in and it went like butter. Amazing how having the right tool makes everything better.

I was going to replace my brakes today and ran into a problem. I have an 87 GL 4WD. I was able to get the hub and calipers off and swapped out the rotor fairly easy, the problem is getting the caliper piston pushed all the way back in. I have turned it so it can go no further, but it is still sticking out about a 1/4" and it will go no further back. Needless to say I'm not to pleased but there must be something I'm missing. I tried turning, it just spins and doesn't move back any further. I tried just pushing but that didn't work. I need to get these pushed back further so I can get the brakes back together. Thank goodness for a 3 day weekend. The car is sitting on jack stands in my parents driveway until I can get it fixed, hopefully tomorrow. Please help!

How do I adjust the choke?

I have an 87 GL, 5sp with the 2bbl carb. When I start the car on a cool or cold day, it starts up fine and idles but when I start going down the road, it will hesitate when I change gears and try to accelerate. The car starts out in first ok, I start slowly anyway, but when I shift into second and try applying more gas, it will stumble, almost to the point of stalling for a second or two, then start to go again. I have to play with the throttle to keep it going. Once the car is warmed up I don't have this problem at all. I changed the plugs some time ago so they are all new and the choke looks to be working fine. I did have to tape off the bottom of the Anti Afterburner Valve because it was stuck in the open position and I didn't have the money to buy a new one. I don't know that this would effect it when it's cold, but figured I would throw it out there. The valve in the Air cleaner snorkel may not be working, not sure if this would cause this problem or not. Any ideas or other things to check? I can live with it if I have to but it does get annoying.

I have an 87 GL myself and when I got it from my father in law it was running rough, having a real hard time maintaining idle but would be fine at speed. I could hear a vacuum leak but took me awhile to track it down. Turned out to be the Anti Afterburner Valve. It's located on the passenger side, mine was behind the black canister with the 4 hoses running into it. It almost looks like an upside down horn. This is a valve designed to suck in air if the engine gets over 3k and the idle is let go, the extra air prevents backfires. Mine was stuck open so it was always sucking in air, thus cause the car the run terribly. I simply taped off the bottom of the valve with electrical tape now the car runs beautifully. I'm sure you could get a junkyard one for cheap but the dealer wanted about $150 for a new special order one that I couldn't return, so I just taped it off.

I taped the bottom of the valve over and now the car idles great. A bit high but I'm going to be adjusting that soon. I took it on the highway afterwards and it ran fine, no backfires or popping like I read about. I'll be getting a new valve to replace the one I disabled, but I'm glad to have fixed this issue.

I recently obtained an 87 Subaru GL that has a hard time warming up and idling when warm. I have noticed, that the anti after-burner valve seems to be stuck in one position. When the car is sitting, trying to hold an idle, the valve is constantly trying to suck in air. If I cover the bottom of the valve, the idle come up significantly. I'm going to be working on the car later today and I'm going to attempt to cover most, if not all, of the bottom of the valve, to stop the constant air sucking. I know that this valve is supposed to prevent backfires at high speed, like over 3000rpm. If it is covered and can't due that properly, what might happen, besides backfires which I dont really want either. Would it be ok to cover most of the valve? Any idea how much a new one would cost?