General chaos
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Posts posted by General chaos
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where is it located at exactly. i had consider that as a possiblity. i am hoping the trans doesnt need to come apart. i am hoping maybe if it is internal i can do it from the pan area. but i have no idea what the inside looks like either. mayeb a holder came off a band. i dont know.
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the ignition switch electrical part can go bad. at least it can on my 93 legacy. the sprign inside of it can get weak and not let it contact properly. we were using a finger to press on the back of it to start the car. that gave more tention to the spring and the contact was made and the car started rigth up. we had to drive around withthe plastic cover off of the column . but it worked until we put in a new electrical switch. i had to drop the column down in order to remvoe the screws from the switch. there was no way what so ever to get any kind of small screwdriver in there at all. too much stuff in the way. it sat at the wrong angle too. towards the dash.
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with the additional posts above here is an opinion. how much is she asking? is the engine dirty rewal dirty or oil caked? is their proof of the mileage? i sit still in the car? where did a woman get an engine without a man around? or did she pull it herself? those are the questions i would aks myself. if i liekd the answers. i wouldnt worry about a timing belt. that job isnt that hard to redo if needed.
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is the rear end the cause of torque bind? i thought it was. i just wanted to make sure. if the rear end goes bad what happens? i still have the gear box for the front axles integrated into the transmission. can the rear gear box lock up and only let the car go forward only and not in reverse.
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new symptoms added. well some of this is not new. what happened right as this broke down. was that now every time we go to put the car in gear we have to use the shifter release button. i don't know why.
we got pulled into a driveway last night because i forgot it didn't have reverse. we went to push it out of the driveway while the shifter was in neutral and it would not move like it was in park. so when we let off of it. the car started to inch forward. like it was in drive. not from just releasing the rearward pressure on the car. it went further than that.
when we got home last night. i was trying to shift the shifter into several different spots to see if i could find reverse. so if maybe the shift linkage was bad or mis adjusted or whatever. and between park and reverse. i had drive instead of park or reverse.
any kind of help is wanted. suggestions that i get another transmission aren't needed.
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what are the band adjustment procedures for a 93 legacy sedan at with fwd or awd? i do have the gear box in the transmission and at the rear too.
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does anyoen have the auto trans diagrams for the at for a fwd or awd 93 legacy? or internals pictures. please post or a link is fine too. thank you.
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yea the white lines are really for just making sure the pulleys are in time with each other. not in tiem with the enigne. the pulley have to be alined with the engine marks. but the white lines can be slightly off. i learned that when i lost my spark while i was doign a timing belt swap. stupid loose wires anyway.
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here is one on ebay. kind of expensive i think. there are other manufactures out there. dotn just think hoppy only. of course i cant think of the other name brand right now. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HOPKINS-43855-Trailer-Connector-Kit-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a2006Q7cModelQ3aImprezaQQhashZitem3a650c4e6dQQitemZ250803408493QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
it will come to me after i go to bed and am just laying there.
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1993 sub legacy sedan. i think it is a fwd. it has the fwd fuse box on the passenger coil tower. i recently had the radiator out. i lost a slight bit of fluid when i started the car with the coolant lines disconnected fromthe radiator. when i go tthe car running again. i was being rushed and didnt refill the trans fluid. i forgot. oh honey hurry we are going to be late. shut the f up.
ok so we drive it 45 miles one way. no problems. except fuel gauge. i think that is a different probelm completely. ok so we are on our way home. 41 miles. and we get a hard lockup of some sort for a few seconds. i tell my wife to slow down. she does but doesnt. fing acehole. she speeds back up. slow dowN! it does it again before she slows down. then i hear a quick metal to metal squeal. and the hard lockup for a second. this was the third hard lockup sound and slwoing of the car in those few seconds. i tell her to pull over. i check the trans fluid and sure enough i had forgot to fill it back up. it was barely touching the tip of the dip stick. ok so i had half a quart we put it in either before or after we tried to drive off. either way the car wouldnt move at all. in any direction.
we walk home 4 miles. it took 1 1/4 hours. we got my truck went to the store bought more mulitpurpose atf. it said subaru use on the bottle. walmart brand. we fill i tup and we are able to drive the car home. but it revs a slight bit higher before it will drive. we have not had reverse since this has happened. we have tried and tried. and still no reverse.
is this a servo or solenoid that we can check or replace. or is this a hard parts problem?
EDIT: we were doing 65 on the highway when this happened. also the torque bind we thought we had. went away with losing reverse. no more hopping going around the corner.
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i got to thinking. i didnt use silicone on the water pump gasket last year. and it leaked with only the gasket in place. so i probably will use silicone and the gasket too. i have seen too many silicone blowouts in my time to trust only silicone as a gasket byitself. hopefully i can just pull the seal without havign to pull the pump. ha ha ha. yeah right. well i can put screws into the old seal and pull it out with the screws maybe. i go tthe gasket set today but it raiend so i didnt even bother with working on the car. in case it wanted to rain on me while i had my tools out in the open.
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the kit says it fits many vehicles. but that doesnt mean anything about the gasket. i myslef dont like sticking stuff together with silicone. which i am guessing the grey rtv is silicone.
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here is what i ordered felpro part number TCS45919 from orielly's http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/FEL0/TCS45919.oap?keyword=crankshaft+seal&pt=02345&ppt=C0026
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i ordered the gasket and seal kit saturday. it will be here tomorrow. and i can take the car apart them. i have a funny feeling i am goignt o end up at least replacing the head gaskets too. there was alot of white smooke coming out of the exhaust friday when we had ti running again. i think my wife got it too hot last year and may have doen something to it. the car didnt smoke that much white smoke before we took it apart to fix the balancer. a few weeks ago. i dotn know we will see after she runs it for ahwile if it is loosing anymore coolant. the iol pump gasket kit has 1 main housing gasket a O ring [i think] and a crankshaft seal.
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are there any mods to uping the pressure that i should consider while the pump is out.
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93 legacy sedan 2.2 at. well i knew it was leaky. but since i cleaned up around it now it really pukes oil. so i am going back in.
one thing i noticed before is that. the gear on the crank wouldnt slide off by hand. and i really dont have a puyller to get behind it to pull it off the crank. so what is used what type of puller. i know it is stuck and probably shouldnt be. do i have to borrow one of those thing armed pullers to get the gear off the crank? or is it a bolt on puller that i have to use? if i understand it it is just a regular seal. its not soem sort of deal where i have to actually have to remove the pump if i can get the seal out with a seal puller.
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after bolting the fuse box back in. i am wondering if i may have rebumped something and it might not start again. i am almost sure it had to do with the wirign up under the dash or putting the fuse back in. i have seen spade connectors that get loose. and i have had to mash them back tight. i just hope this fixes it. now i fi could get the alt fixed i could drive the car. and no more sitting at home all day bored to death. i have work to do elsewhere.
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it looks like this is going to be a on going problem.
i havent touched the car since i posted last about the alternator. so today stuck at home i decide to do some testing. anyway that was a waste of time and i knew it. so i reach up under the fender to grab the wirign loom just before it enters the body. i move it back and forth several times. i then did it again. the rubber boot pops out of the body. great now i have to put the boot back in.
so i put the new fuel pump connector wire back on the fuel sender and put the pump in the tank after testing to make sure the connector was working.
so anyway back to making sure what had power and what didnt. same old thing except i put the old 15 amp fuse back in slot 16. and then i got power back to everything. the car started right up without an alternator even on the car.
i do not know for sure what the problem was because i had unplugged some wires from the fuse box and plugged them back in too. because i had thoughts that maybe the fuse box connectors were bad. although i couldnt see anything.
so that is where i am at. in need of fixing the alternator getting it to run smoothly. maybe time for a tune up. however next week it will probably break down again.
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the .8 volts has to be some sort of a feedback i think. thats all i could figure out. since i had been testing the wrong side.
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the alternator was working. and there is a long story as to why it may not be workign properly now. i have took tiem off of this to rethink my options on alternator replacement or possible repair of my mess up. chinese parts i am guessign is the real problem.
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band adjustment
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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ok here is the diagram. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/transbrakeband.jpg
and here is the adjustment. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/transbrakebandadj.jpg
this is not the reverse band is it? or is it? the adjustment procedures dont cover no reverse. only forward shifting.