Rollerball

I will get more information today. I'm pretty familiar with where to find the information once I look under the hood. Thanks

Been some time since I have be on the USMB. Came across a 83 Subaru GL , 5spd with 112,000 miles on it. I got an offer on it for $325 it runs been needs a couple of new gaskets installed. I want to swap the 5 psd into my 82 Subaru GL that is a 4 spd. Our these cars pretty much transparent? Thanks.

I just had my oil pressure sending unit gauge replaced. My reading are similar as posts above. I'm about 65 at idle and around 70-75 at during driving. I had the same readings before just a really bad leak from the gasket on the sending unit. Rollerball

A great thread. Yeah according to my 1982 Subaru Manual and a few posts ahead of mine it was considered a "center lamp". I think the only inconvenience is that brights have to be activated it order for the center lamp to actually be used. I found my center lamp on accident when I was changing the license plate out when I bought the car. I have used it but it's good for only long stretches of open road or you catch you self constantly turning your brights off so you don't blind oncoming traffic. Anyone know how to bypass the light so the center lamp can activate without brights on? Rollerball

So when I fill up my gas tank the gauge registers and usually indicated about 7/8 's full. Within about 50 miles are so it's buried on empty. Interesting enough though when I get to about 2 gallons left, or at least I'm guessing due to gauge inaccuracy the the low fuel tank light illuminates orange. My guess is a bad fuel sending unit? Thoughts, suggestions? Rollerball

Anybody know where I could get the factory service manual for 1982 Subaru GL Hatchback. 1800 CC, EA- 81. Thanks

Have you tried calling your local Subaru dealership? I was looking for some parts for a 1982 Subaru GL. I started by looking online as just found a bunch of after market stuff, nothing officially that could convince me to buy anything. I needed specific body body parts and some other stuff. I was able to find the following. All from the dealership... Left, & Right Marker Lights ( Single Corner Lamps) PCV Valve Water Pump OEM Oil Pump OEM Clutch Kit OEM It takes some time for the dealership but if you are patient and have the VIN number then you may be able to find some of your parts. Some occasions the parts I was looking for they would be completely out of, and some had limited quantities. I was patient gave them a list and they called me back when they got around to looking them up. Carter Subaru in Seattle is very good, and they handle a large volume of inventory with a lot of old part catalogs. If you ask for the part number you can order them from your nearest dealership or they can ship to you. It's worked for me. Good Luck! Rollerball

Nice find! What did you pay for it? Last month I found a 1982 Hatchback here in Tri- Cities. It's a 4 speed, I agree a 4 sod in town is kinda crappy always trying to find the right gear. They are a load of fun to drive. You will br surprised how good the paint is. I took a buffet and a light rubbing compound and it made it look new again. I had a few small leaks but that is it so far. I have about 750 miles on it. The best is the 3rd eye, does the 86 have one. Good Luck... Rollerball

Hey, I would like suggestions on a clutch kit to buy for a 1982 Subaru GL. 1800 CC, 4 WD, Hatch I have looked online and I have noticed several different brands all that vary in price. I don't want a cheap one, but I don't want the most expensive one either. As far as the flywheel is concerned, I have read some controversy here on the forum whether to have the wheel machined to be re-used or to buy a new one. Due to the nature of the labor, I would like to once and only once. Suggestions, on what may be a good model to go with and perhaps a good website to buy one from. My mechanic quoted me $160.00 for a kit, my guess is that is makes a little profit on his parts, because I saw full kits for less than $100.00 w/ free shipping. Thanks!

I have a put about 450 miles on it. New Starter New Plugs Battery ( Which I had) Topped of the Anti Freeze Change the Oil and Filter New Fuel Filter The was was I have to get some new gaskets for the OPS and the Front Seal.

I got this rig about 1 month ago. I finally got it cleaned up and looking pretty good again. I paid $100.00 for it! Rollerball

Okay, so I filled my gas tank completely full of gas. And added 1/2 can of Seafoam to the gas tank, and 1/2 container of HEET . I drove the car until it was basically empty of gas. On the way to fill up of when the tank was nearly empty (gas light was not on) I noticed some white smoke coming out from the exhaust, usually when accelerating at idle from a stop light or stop sign. Within about 10-15 seconds the white smoke would dissipate and the white smoke would go away. I filled up the tank with gas, and DID NOT add anything to the tank. The white smoke came from the exhaust once or twice when taking off from a stop sign from idle. The smoke isn't persistent during the drive what so ever. Is this normal? I didn't notice any smoke at all for the first 200 miles or so, maybe there was, and I just didn't notice. I had a pretty bad oil leaking coming from the OPS, and the front mail seal. The gaskets have been changed, and the engine compartment completely degreased. Thanks! Rollerball

Got the new lift supports in with the help of Svengouli7. We are live about 10 minutes from each other. Ended up grinding off the rivets and then punching the new pieces in place on the new rods. They were a little tight but with a socket below it gave it something to hit it against. I will mention that when installing either take a picture of the old ones before removing. I will have to take a picture of the correct orientation of the lift supports. It's very easily to in-correctly install the lift supports. One would think it's a no big deal but you have to make sure the black part is on the top, and the silver is on the bottom which is installed first and folds on itself. I will upload a picture of it. Many our laughing I'm sure but oh well maybe a picture will save someone else the hassle. And the forum will do it's purpose for the next. Thanks for the tips for this Novice!

They are a lot of fun! I have owned 4. I just picked up a 1982 Subaru GL Hatchback for $ 100.00. The car sat for about 4 years. I changed the spark plugs, air filter, added coolant, oil and, filt, cleaned the carb, and added 2 gallons of fuel. Poured a little fuel in the carb and changed the fuel filter and it started right up. It has a EA 81 engine in it with a working 3rd eye. When I opened the glovebox the orginal service manual and all the service paperwork was was in the car. So far so good I put 200 miles on it and only leaked a small dime size of oil has leaked out. I made out prettyy good on this one. My primary is a 2001 Outback Wagon, just made the last payment. Thank god, took me a few years to work the bugs out of it. New head gaskets, but of course! They are full all around... Rollerball

I had a 1996 Impreza for some time that car could get up and go. Nice wheels. The only thing that car bothered my wallet for one a ignition key core, and an ac compressor. 180 k sold it for more than what I bought it for. Cheers!

Yes, they did. I just had one heck of time trying to break the rivet free. I used a power drill and went right after the the drive rivet side, then it would break loose no problem. All I did is drilled a nice hole in the middle of the drive rivet, it would not break free. I tried one size bigger the the actual drive rivet. I was so frustrated I took a break. What kind of tool do I need? Thanks! Rollerball

Hey, Looking for some lift supports for a 1982 Subaru Hatchback GL. When opening the hatch the lift supports do not stay causing a big smack on the melon! I bought some from a local parts store, but they only sell the shock, not the hardware. I tried to drill out the rivet so I could use the old hardware but the rivet of been used by a mechanical rivet gun. I can drill through the center but it will not break the rivet loose. Any suggestions right now I have taken the supports off, it makes for a heavy hatch, but at least you don't forget and bust your melon! Thanks!

You guys rock. Turned the headlights on high beams on, pushed the button and she flipped right open !! BOOM BABY!

I checked the manual and the fuse box, which is labeled nothing showing the "center lamp". Rollerball

I have done some researching and I'm trying to figure out how to the center headlight activates. I read the manual and it states; by pushing the center lamp button on the dash the center headlight should flip open and activate the center driving lamp. It also states that the dash-light should also activate on the console indicating that the light is on. When I push the switch nothing happens. I pulled the grill off and noticed that it looks like it's motor driven, and I traced the wires back up which looks like a wire plugs up near the negative battery terminal. I also searched the forum and, and How to Keep your Subaru Alive book. Can anybody explain to me how how this thing operates. Is it on it's on fuse? I didn't see anything in the manual as far as fuse location. All the lights work in the car including the dome light, fasten seat belts chime, etc. Thanks! Rollerball

Got the sooby running tonight. Ended up putting a new starter in, changed the spark plugs, oil, air filter and coolant. Cleaned the carb., charged a battery from my truck dropped it in. Replaced all the battery wires and terminals, put some air in the tires. All the lights, and dash lights work, even the fuel door, and indicating lights. All the orginal service manuals and warranty books were in the car. Along with orginal bill of sale. $100.00 for the car. ( Seller upped the price once he figured out how interested I was $135.00 for parts. I'm sure more partrs are in its future. Thanks for the help!!

Thanks for all the great posts. Replaced all the wires for the battery. The sooby hasn't ran in about 3 years. Poured a litttle gas in the carb. And she started right up. Lots of white smooke billowed out for aabout 5 mins. Drove the car about 10 miles, came home and checked all the fluids and topped the coolant and added a half quarts of oil. What to do next....? Paid $100 for the care and 135 for parts. Thanks! Rollerball

How do I submit a photo on here?

Hey All, So I have a 1982 Subaru GL. I'm not able to get the rig to start. I have done the following. Charged the battery 4 hours Brand New Starter ( The old one clicked, just the same as it does now with the new starter. New Plugs Changed Oil & Filter New Fuel Filter 2 Gallons of 91 Premium Fuel in Tank The motor turns over effortless by hand by spinning the pulley. The rig sat for about 3 years the previous owner thought the same thing, bad starter. I noticed some a little bit of corrosion on the battery positive and negative lead wires, but nothing to crazy. The starter wire leaving the positive battery terminal looks to be in good condition. When I changed the oil, there was approx. 3 quarts of spent oil, and it wasn't to bad in color. The master brake fluid and transmission fluid wasn't bad either. Any suggestions? My thoughts: Battery terminals, positive and negative are corroded causing poor contact to the battery. Not allowing enough crank amps to the starter? The starter lead from the battery to the starter is bad? The ignition switch is bad not allowing to to start the car. When turning the ignition switch power is supplied to all the accessories. I'm a newbie with PLEASE HELP! Thanks! Rollerball

Hey All, New to the forum here. I picked up a 1982 Subaru GL last weekend for $100. The car has been sitting for about 3.5 years. I completed the following, Drained the oil out of car, approx. 3 quarts or so drained from the car. The oil looked okay it wasn't too black, changed filter. Changed and gapped all the spark plugs. Drained coolant added new. New Battery, no battery with car. I noticed there was little to no fuel in the tank so this concerned me with the rust that could of accumulated in the tank could work its way up the fuel lines and eventually damage other components of the car? How would one rule out that the tank is free of rust? Should I be concerned? What is the process like to remove the gas tank so it can be either cleaned out, or taken to a shop to be recoated? The rest of the car is checking out good, all the wiper motors, lights, including the horn works. I found the original bill of sale in the car along with service records. I want to fire this thing up but I want to make sure the fuel tank is free of rust?? Anybody with suggestions? ? Thanks. Rollerball