leblancc99

I agree completly, this problem was completly unexpected and the first contact with the service manager was less than professionnal. The second service manager was much better but I did not expect to put that king of money on a well maintained Subaru with only four years in it. The car runs MUCH better after the repair, a little less power but it runs fine now. They gave me back the injectors and the plugs and I have 1 year warranty on the repair (I think it is required by law here to give a warranty on expensive repairs on recent cars) Last winter was difficult and the injector froze once but I tought it was only a localized incident. In retrospect, it might bne that they were damaged at that time and that my ECU and Iridium plugs were able to compensate for the damage for a while. I am still angry with the situation. The chances that I could end up with a Forester turbo are not so good now. Especially since the dealer took a direct aim at the upscale market: "Subaru doesn't compete with Suzuki, it competes with Audi, BMW, Saab". Well, when I purchased my Impreza wagon back in 2000, it was competing with Mazda Protege, VW Golf, Honda Civic, Ford Focus, Hunday Elantra and even the Pt Cruiser. i gues I was wrong. BTW here in Quebec, the Impreza wagon TS AMD 165hp 2.5l goes for 23000$can, the Suzuki Aerio wagon AWD 156hp 2.3l goes for 22000$can. About the same size overall, the Aerio is a bit more... ugly but roomier as well. We also have the Mazda5, the Vibe, the Matrix that are not in the same category. Anyways, I was thinking about putting a few goodiers on it like a paint job same color but repairs on the scratches and dings, maybe new winter tires, rpm, replacing one wheel slightly out of balance and looking at the rear coil springs (the car sits lower at the back) Also maybe an anti-roll bar for the rear, these will have to wait. Charles Leblanc Impreza 2000

I have a 2000 Impreza with the reparate turn signal and brake light I had one trailler hitch with electrical wiring installed at the purchase of my car with the trailler hitch It went well untill it stopped working. I tought that it was a problem on the trailler side: bad bulb, bad connection. I finally tested the wires coming out of the car and wound out where the problem was. Since I relocated, the original shop was too far for me so I did it myself I purchase a small kit from Walmart or Canadian Tire and a small welding torch but but I could have used clip connectors as well. The entire job took me 2 hours but I wanted to test all connections with a ohm meter and to do soldering on every connection. I was not only installing a kit but I was troobleshooting a problem with my trailler as well. The installation is easy and straightforward and if you do it by yourself, you will also be able to repair it. I should also have purchased the trailler hitch, it is a simple bolt-on for my car and thge installation would have taken about 2 hours as well especially since the car was brand new. Charles Leblanc Impreza 2000 wagon

Problem was solvet by paying 1400$ to the dealer. He changed all four injectors Chainge oil, filter, plugs Put the car on the diagnostic computer, test drive, diagnostic again The car runs good now... for how long? one can only hope... I will revise my maintenance schedule and put fuel injector cleaner each three month, more often in the winter (each 6 weeks). It would seem that regular unleaded fuel with 87 octane in the culprit. I have been noticing the arrival of winter gas for a few years since I moved in colder regions of Quebec. Accordingly to my mechanic, Winter gas has more additives and might cause failure of the injectors. He also,points out that peoples driving with premium gas in the winter do not have this problem. I am also thinking about moving to premium gas all around. It has a cost impact but with a little tinkering, I might be able to increase the output of my engine a bit. I remember a article about builting a few pounds of torque by modification (resistor) of the signal of the O2 sensor, the intake temp, the knock sensor and putting premium plugs on the 2.5L enggine. Maybe a drop in performance filter and a cold air intake. If I choose to convert to premium, I will try to take advantage of it my "tuning" the car a bit more Charles Leblanc Out of warranty Impreza 2000

First of all, I have 130000km on my car , way more than the 100000km warranty limit for the major component warranty. Second of all, the ignition is covered by the emission control warranty and the normal bumber to bumper warranty of 36 month 60000km One might argue that is could fall under warranty if the coil were on the 5years/100000km warranty but since I am more than double the mileage and over one year past the std warranty, I am stuck with it. I do not mind that much but now I feel that my local dealer is a crook, you can see the other thread for more info.

Unfortunatly, I am getting misfire code on all four cylinders, P301, P302, P303, P304. I explained in details on the other thread. The car almost doesn't run under 2000 rpm, after, it picks up, I have unburned fuel smell out of the exhaust, the engine vibrates alot at idle and when I can finally get the car moving, it produces blue smowe. CEL flashes then steady ON I have decided to change the ingnition coil after testing the resistance of the primairy wires. I will also change the spark plugs, the old one opened up, I put NGK Irridium IX and less tha one year after that, I have these problems, maybe the plugs have nothing to do with it but I am going back to regular platinum plugs. I wasthinking about changing the spark plug wires as well but since they are still below their resistance, I will simply apply silicon on them. As far as the injectors, they are pricey in my region, I could order then from a mail order if I can find one that will ship to Canada. There is some work to be done to replace them, I had to strip some thing out of the engine bay only to disconnect the wires of the injectors, I suspect that there is much work because the fuel rail has to be removed as well. The good thing is that I found a service manual on the net My VOM seems perfact, it is a numeric one , not the best quality but seems fairly precise. I have another one, analogic but is it only precise with current and voltage I am hoping that the new ingnition coil and the new plugs with the proper gap will solve the problem.

I am troubleshooting a big ignition problem on my almost new impreza (2 month out of warranty. So far, I have to change the spark plugs, the electrode opened and the gap is now over 60mill! The coil is to be replaced, the primary resistance (ECU side) is in the mega-ohm range and it should be 0.73ohm so the primary is burned. The secondary resistance (plug side) is 12.8kilo-ohm almost perfect The wires look good, very good but they have about half the resistance when measured with a multimeter (in ohm): #1 has 6.3 should be 10.6 #2 has 7.7 should be 13.7 #3 has 6.2 should be 11.1 #4 had 8.0 should be 13.7 Should I order a new set? seems that the resistance is negligeable compared to the arc produced by the plug (the air being a much bigger resistance) Now the big question: I have checked the resistance of my injectors: it is supposed to be 11-12ohm, I am getting 13, 13.2, 13, 12.9 are they toasted? this is the 1400$ question for me because that is what the dealer wants for this! I am not really equipped to do the injector work myself, my car sits outside and I do not have that much free time Please advice original thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19346

One thing about these new cars Now I am walking from my computer and back with wiring diagrams, two multimeter and a set of tools and it's alot of fun. According to the EGI troobleshooting diagram, I now have to check if I am getting 11 to 12 ohm between the injector terminal. It is already night here and I do not have a garage so I'll check tomorrow

Hi Mudrat I like it, I tested the inginion coil and ingnitor assembly Primary side Between 1-2 I am getting infinity Between 3-4 I am getting 1.96 Mega ohm Specidied values in the Impreza 2002 is 0.73ohm On the secondary dide, I am getting: between A and B 12.46Kohm between C and D 12.42Kohm Spedicied value is 12.8Kohm +/- 15% I am within 2% The only thing is that I am guessing that the ingnition coil had remained the same betrween 2000 impreza and 2002 impreza. Another thing I checked the plugs myself: Plug #1 had fuel on it, black deposit Plug #3 Looked fairly dry, black deposit Plug #2 Looked dry, black deposit Plus #4 Looked dry, no deposit Another thing, the plugs were sowing a very large gap, much more than 0.044", probably 0.060", I know that they had the proper gap when I recieved them last year. I will purchase a new set of plugs tomorrow The only thing that bothers me is that the dealer told me that he tried another coil and it did not help. I am thinking that he is a crook but that would be a direct lie! Anyways, this is the best lead that I have recieved so far, I will try to locate another ingnition coil.

My mistake, the ECU read code reported all systems OK! The list was there bvecause since these systems reported OK, I can presume that they are working and I can look elsewere for a problem. I am sorry about the misinformation. Status: When reading the OBDII module by connecting the connector under the direction colomn, I get that all system are OK. It doesn't seem to remember that there was a CEL on whan the engine was running The diagnostic P301 P302 P303 P304 was performed at the dealership when the engine was running. I will try to edit out the information from the last message

I just drove the car medium and full throttle for a while The CEL flashed then went steady on. After a while the CEL turned off for about 15s (hope!) then went back on :-( Power of the engine is fairly good once the engine is over 2500rpm, it has to be running on all four cylinders From a stand still, the car barely is able to get going, the engine misses alot, blue smoke is coming out of the exhaust but once it start reving, it runs well My goal was to get the ECU diagnostic but once the engine is stopped, I check the ECU codes and the ECU reports steady 0.5 sec. flashes. According to the ECU diagnostic page, it means that every system is OK. ( text deleted) I still agree that the injectors should not stop working all at one and I am still hoping that it is only one electronic module that failed since the faillure happened all at one.

You are roght, it is MPFI, I can clearly see four Denso injectors on two fuel rail I changed the fuel filter but the old one (less than a year old) still looks good I was thinking about a faulty sensor . I will drive the car to try to get the check engine light to go on and I will try to read the code using the ECU diagnostic method. Do you have any suggestion what to check on the fuel control system? The car did run well for 50 month with no CEL indication. About 6 month ago, I had a complete engine diagnostic performed and everything check ok The only abuse that this car had was pulling a boat trailler and it was two month ago, and I would not call it abuse because the car seemed to love it.

Hi, Last week I started my car to go to work, the car has been running perfectly the day before, now it runs very rough. Lack of power, almost stalling Doesn't rev rpm easily even in neutral Engine vibrates alot on idle Blue Smoke coming out when accelerating fuel coming from the exhaust pipe, exhaust pressure pulsating CEL flashing then steady on when the engine gets warm Went to the dealer to read the codes: P301 P302 P303 P304 He says: Must change the injectors, the plugs, the wires, the oil, gas filter and oil filter, then try the car again to see if it's fixed. He says that I have bas gas in the tank. I always fill it up at the local gas station and nobody else had a problem He wants 1500$ Cnd for this I took my car out of the dealer The car: 2000 Impreza 2.2L man AWD wagon 130000km (about 80000milles) 50 month old Maintenance as per the service manual NGK iridium plugs last year Original wiring, I was scedule to change this summer Air filter 3 month old Gas filter 1 year old Castrol Syntek 10W30 Timing belt original, I was thinking about changing it next year, on my model, it is requires at 168000km 104000milles This summer is very humid in my area, it has been raining at least 5 days/week so I was thinking about humidity getting in a sensor or the coils? I have had many cars but a car 50 month old, well maintained that would cost me 1500$ in repairs after 4 years, I find it surprising I am now located in a remote city the peoples seem to tell be that the Subaru dealership is run by a bad apple. Tomorrow, I will do an oil change because my current oil is contasminated with fuel. Tried today but the oil filter and the oil plug are stuck! Any suggestions, comments