Phillip
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Posts posted by Phillip
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It's time for new front struts on my '99 Outback Wagon. The car is a regular daily driver (no off-road, racing, etc.) and I'll be doing the work myself. Can anyone recommend a supplier and/or brand name of struts you've been happy with? Thanks
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I'm going to tow a 2,000 pound tent trailer with my 1999 Outback Wagon and would feel better if I installed a transmission cooler. Anyone have any recommendations to share? Thanks in advance!
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I just purchased a 1996 Outback with a bad engine. I'm replacing the engine with a jdm engine. The tranny has 150 k on it. I expect this car/engine to last another 150 maybe 200 k. That puts the tranny at 300+ k miles. Now rather than later would be a convenient time for me to replace the tranny both time and money wise. How long do these trannys hold up?
My '99 OBW required a rebuild at around 100k; started slipping in second gear.
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I've got a set on my '99 OBW that are VERY noisy on the dry highway - are yours noisy too?
I know a lot of people aren't huge fans of these tires, but don't knock em till you try em.i just got a set of Goodyear Triple Treads on the 99leg GT. So far, they're amazing.
quiet
grip like mad
total control
cool looking
we just got a butt-load of snow here in columbus and i TRIED to have some fun with my car in a parking lot and i couldn't. Everytime i got the car to slide it hooked right back up.
i really think that the AWD of the Subaru and the grip of the Triple Treads is a huge win.
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My trent trailer is wider than my 1999 Outback Wagon and I'm looking at purchasing a pair of strap-on mirror extensions. Has anyone here used them? How'd they work? Any suggestions about how to extend my mirrors will surely be appreciated.
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Wow, thanks for sharing so much information. Sounds like I need a diff from a '96 -'99 Outback, GT, or LSi with a 4.44/1 ratio. If I can't fine one on Craigslist, I'll check my local salvage yards. Hopefully I'll find one before mine fails.
Phillip
the trans number will tell you. (96 - 99)TZ102Z2xxx is an auto trans on a 2.5L engine and has the 4.44 final drive. (outbacks, GTs and LSi.)
TZ102Zxxxx is an auto trans on a 2.2L engine and has the 4.11 final drive. (legacy L, LS, and brighton.)
if the 2.5L 99 auto trans has a different part number then it's phase II and all bets are off. (but it could be 4.44, i just don't know. )
2000 - 01 the auto trans for the legacy 2.2L and the impreza 2.2L had the same part number. my guess is that they are 4.11. just a guess.
the 97 GT has 16 inch wheels but smaller tires 205/55/16 than the outback 205/70/15. the circumfrence of the GT tire (78.2 inches) is about the same as the legacy 195/70/14 (77.7 inches). it would need taller struts to have bigger tires. the circumference of the outback 205/70/15 is larger (82.6 inches). and of course diameter is relative to the circumference.
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Thanks to those of you assisting me in diagnosing a rear end noise in my 1999 Outback Wagon. Just as a few of you guessed, it's the rear differential. I found a few used ones on craigslist; one out of a 2001 Outback and a few out of WRX's (my ratio is 4.44/1).
Can anyone tell me what other models will interchange with a 1999 Outback Wagon with an automatic trans? Many thanks!
Phillip
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Maybe a very slight vibration, but not sure. I manage a large municipal fleet shop and have access to a press, etc. Even though the service manual said the shaft wasn't servicable, I planned to give it a try. Nipper thinks it may be the rear diff. I didn't hear any noise when I listened with a stethascope, but it's pretty hard to tell. My center bearing is shielded with a tin cover that I'll need to remove before checkin it out. Whatever it is, the noise inside the car is getting louder. Sooner or later something will break. Hope I figure it out before then. Thanks for the tips. I'll let everyone know what I found (when I figure it out!). Thanks again.
Phillip
there's no vibrations at all?if someone else did it, then so can you (or a machine shop). the FSM also states the Ujoints aren't servicable...along with many other items on the car which I and others have done. it can be done, it's a matter of finding a shop that's either done it before or willing to try.
for some it's easier to order another shaft and be done with no down time. rather than calling around, asking, finding a place that wants you to bring it in first, sourcing bearings and on and on, which requires removal and down time...etc and depending on prices in your area and the shop won't end up being any cheaper than a used one. all shops i know of charge a minimum of $45/hour with a 1 hour minimum shop charge. i would bet you're looking at 1 hour plus the cost of new bearings - so probably $100 or more. you can get a used one cheaper than that shipped to your door. no down time, calling, asking around, dropping it off, etc.
the funny thing is that whether you install a new one or a used one i promise your next issue (if there is one) is with a ujoint, not the used (or new) carrier bearing.
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This sounds like a rotating noise - a roaring or rumbling heard pretty loud in the car. I replaced both rear wheel bearings (one was definately bad), but the noise didnt change. My next guess is either the center bearing or rear diff. Thanks for the reply.
Noises "in the back" are real tough to figure out.I am not discounting you making a center bearing call, but the drive shaft has such limited movement, that need for center bearing replacement is rare.
The entire rear end assembly is rubber mounted, inproper jacking/hoisting in the area behind the rear doors can cause noise, as the sheet metal mounts around the rubbers gets crushed.
Rear strut mounts (uppers) going bad can be a source of weird noises.
"U" joints do go out of these cars.
*The dreaded transmission (automatic) torque bind can cause drive line noise.*
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That was the first thing I tried. I then replaced both rear wheel bearings (one was definately bad), but still have the noise. I'm guessing either a center support bearing or rear diff. Thanks for the reply.
Have you done a tire rotation recently? Is there any noticeable difference in treadwear front and rear?It may be my imagination, but normal drivetrain noise seems to increase wen fronts wear slightly more than rears. When I bought the Legato, theh fronts were a little more worn, and it kind of lurched at constant speed 45mph and up. I rotated fron to back and rear side to side and it felt much better.
Further confirmed this this past weekend, with my GF's Forester, who neglected a rotation for 12-15k miles.
It's like it prefers to drag the rear along. Tires are just at .25 circumference difference.
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My service manual says the center bearing is not replaceable and the entire driveshaft must be replaced. Have you had a bearing replaced at a driveshaft shop?
I think often the suggestion is to remove the driveshaft and take it to a driveshaft/driveline builder/shop for servicing. -
No, I'm not sure it's the center bearing, but I just replaced both rear wheel bearings and that didn't change the noise. It's definately a bearing noise that gets louder as the speed increases. I planned to drop the shield and listen to the center bearing housing tonight. I listened for noise on the rear differential housing a few weeks ago, but couldn't hear any roughness or vibration. My service manual says the center bearing is serviced with a new driveshaft. Sure hope it's not the differential as I'm sure it will be expensive.
are you sure it's not the rear differential or the ujoints in the shaft? the center carrier bearings fail so rarely that i would install a used driveshaft, even in my wifes car. and they never "fail" anyway, they always give plenty of warning so in the very unlikely event that your replacement one failed (which won't happen anyway), it wouldn't strand you or cause any problems. another low-mileage used unit can be had for under $100 rather easily and they are super easy to replace. -
I'm getting some bearing noise from the rear of my '99 Outback Wagon that is not a wheel bearing. I suspect the center bearing/support on the driveshaft needs replacing. My service manual is pretty weak; anyone changed one who could give me a few tips? Thanks
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I'm towing a trailer with my 1999 Outback Wagon and need wider mirrors. Has anyone had any experience with the clamp on temporary mirrors they could share? Any recommendations will sure be appreciated.
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I just bought a tent trailer that weighs 1850 pounds and plan to tow it with my 1999 Outback Wagon. My owners manual states towing up to 2000 pounds is acceptable. I'm a little concerned about pulling that much weight. Has anyone here towed this much? Did you have any issues? Any recommendations? Thanks
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Anyone got a driver side door & fender for a '99 Outback Wagon for sale?
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I need to replace the automatic transmission on my 1999 Legacy Outback Wagon. Can anyone tell me the years that will interchange? Thanks
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Nope, with the exception of the intermittent stumble at idle, no hesitation or any other problems.
Does it hesitate at all when you start off? Especially if you are easy on the gas? I've had that issue caused a couple of times by carbon build up in the engine. You usually need something industrial strength to clean things out of this is the case.Commuter
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Thanks for the quick response, nipper. The car has 135,000 miles; 30,000 on a new longblock. Is the IACV servicable, or must it be replaced? If cleanable, is a spray choke/carb cleaner ok to use?
How many miles?IACV is probably dirty.
nipper
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Good Morning All - my 1999 Outback (2.5/automatic) has developed a stumble at idle I'm having trouble finding. With the engine warm, transmission in drive, foot on brake (car stopped), the engine will intermittently stumble for a second or two, then clear up and run fine. The check engine light is not illuminated. I can't make it happen, but it does occur often. Other than that, it has good power and runs great. Any suggestions on items to look at will be greatly appreciated.
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1999 Outback Wagon
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Does anyone know if the windshield wiper 'ball-joints' are replaceable, or must I purchase the entire transmission assembly?
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The attaching nut is tight, the wipers are the correct size, and the problem is only on the drivers side (more pronounced when the glass is very wet). I suspect the linkage is worn, but have not disassembled it yet. I assume there are bushings on the ball joints (?); if so, do you know it they are serviced seperately, or must I replace the wiper transmission assembly. Thanks for your response.
Nippy, I think he means that the arm travels too far in the up AND down swing. Have you checked that the linkage and the attaching nut is secure? Is it noticeable just on one side? Correct size wipers... I guess this might not be as critical but just asking questions... nosey, huh. -
The wiper (driver side only) hits both the stop on the bottom and the molding on the top, more so when the windshield is wet. It is not an adjustment issue. I suspect the linkage is worn, but haven't taken it apart yet. Are there bushings? If so, are they servicable, or must I replace the wiper transmission. Thanks for the replies>
Yes you are.
Another thing is to check and see if there is any play in the wipers when they are off. This would let us know if there is any wear in the bushings.
nipper
Best Tire for Outback
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I'm due for tires on my '99 OBW and looking for a recommendation. Last time I purchased Goodyear 'Triple-Tred'; they only lasted abut 40,000 miles and are VERY noisy. I live in Oregon where it rains a lot, but we get very little snow. I'd sure like to hear your opinions. Thanks