Phillip
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Posts posted by Phillip
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Although you might be able to fool the computer into thinking the system is working properly by removing the fuse (doubtful?), are you really sure that's what you want to do? Is your life, or the life of another motorist worth $130? What do you think your insurance company would say if they were asked to pay a claim for an accident that may have been avoided if you hadn't altered a federally mandated safety system? Could you afford to pay for damages out of your pocket? I'd re-think this idea carefully before proceeding. I'll bet the parts are available from a wrecking yard if you can't afford new parts.
Need some input on disconnecting the ABS on 95 Legacy .Just changed the front axles and ball joints and wheel bearings.Started out just needed Axles.The pinch bolt for the joints was rusted so had to use the torch to get them out and trashed the wheel ABS sensors which were also rusted in.Tried to soak them ,,,everything ,,but they were so rusted had to use a chisel to get them out...Now I need new ABS sensors for both front wheels and Subaru wants $130.00 for each side...Amazing how the price goes up if they are the only one that makes the part.Really don't care about ABS right now......If I pull the fuse for the ABS circut will the light go out?Brakes work fine and I can't feel any difference from before.By pulling the fuse I hope it will just disable the ABS pump etc and all will be fine until I decide to buy the sensors.Any one else done this?
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If you're buying the parts, I'd sure recommend OEM Subaru headgaskets! They may cost more (not sure), but they will be the latest and greatest design. This is not a place to be penny wise and pound foolish!
Thanks for all the replies-my independant shop quoted me 11 hours ($660) labor for the headgasket job, and I will purchase the parts myself ($300). This is a major relief, especially going into the holiday season. I had seriously thought of doing the work myself, but the only headgasket I've done myself was on an inline 4 where the engine stayed in the car, and even then it never ran right afterwards. With the price this guy quoted, it's a no brainer especially since that includes the labor to do the valves, install a new water pump, loctite the oil pump plate, and replace all accessible seals. While he's got it apart, I'm going to have the heads and valves sent to the machine shop for an extra $200. I hope to get another 150k out of it, and by then maybe price on the 05 legacy GT wagons will be nice and low. Other than this problem though, it's been a fantastic car, and a calming change of pace from my STi, which brings out my leadfoot too much.I really appreciate the advice-most forums I've used seem to be frequented by the 2F2F kids. This is a valuable resource. Thanks again, and I'll post as soon as the work is complete as a follow up.
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I'd take the car to an independent exhaust shop (Midas or the like) and get a quote. They can often save you big $ by re-using parts of the system that are still good. My son's '88 GL Wagon needed the exhaust system from the cat back; the dealer quoted more than $250 for parts only. A local independent exhaust shop replaced the same parts for $145, including installation.
Hi all, First off i'd like to wish everyone a very happy and safe thanksgiving!Now down to business...
I have a '94 legacy GT wgn, and i do believe i need a whole new exhaust, from the drop pipes on back. Can anyone give me a ball park $$ figure for this and also on OEM vs. aftermarket? (for those that have been following my posts, i'm torn between fixing my subie, and looking for something else)
As usual, all help will be greatly appreciated,
Thanks, Jared
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The speedometer head on these vehicles are troublesome. Does your cruise control work when the speedometer isn't? If so, it's likely the speedo head. The speed sensor usually sets a code and illuminates the CEL when they fail. Try repeatedly pressing the windshield washer button next time the speedo stops working; this often will temporarly fix the problem. I'll bet you'll change the speedo head!
My 99 Legacy speedometer is intermittent.It sometimes springs into action when the windshield washer button is
pressed a few times, or sometimes when the odometer reset is pressed. Other
owners have had same symptoms, also on 99 Outbacks.
Cruise works OK.
Is there a cure avoiding replacement please?
Gil
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My '99 Outback Wagon had the engine replaced at 91,000 miles (spun rod bearing) and the transmission rebuilt at 96,000. This is my first and last Subaru! Most parts are 'dealer-only' items, rarely in stock, and expensive. As a professional mechanic with 35-years in the business, I'd recommend either a Honda or Toyota. Just one mans opinion.
I'm looking to pick up an Outback, something in the 1996 to 1999 models. Can someone tell me what year(s) to avoid? I understand that the 1999 model had automatic tranny problems. Anything else I should know when shopping for these models?Thanks in advance for any suggestions you have.
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The burnt fluid you smell on the dipstick indicates burnt friction material (ie clutch pack or band). While changing the fluid my temporarily improve the smell of your trans fluid, damage has already occured. Since the new fluid also smells burned, whatever was slipping in your trans continues to be a problem. It's time for a trip to the transmission shop - very likely for a complete rebuild. Waiting will only increase the repair cost.
I changed the ATF in my 90 legacy about 2K mi ago but now I notce that the fluid smells burnt and it is shifting poorly. It slams into second and then hesitates into third. Anybody have an ideas? -
Check your owners manual, but as I recall, the scheduled replacement is 105,000 miles. Earlier, of course, if it has been damaged or oil soaked.
I am looking at purchasing an '00 OBW w/ 40K miles. I know it's nowhere near the 105K for replacement, but should I be worried because it's 5 years?? What does replacing a timing belt cost?Andy
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I wouldn't change the Oxygen sensor just yet. Check and clear the codes first. We use Sea Foam in our shop (municipal shop with 500 vehicles), and I've had the CEL illuminate after a treatment. I've yet to see a damaged sensor.
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My speedo is dying. Anyone know what year model speedometer heads interchange with a 1999 Outback Wagon, or if the automatic trans unit is different from the manual trans version? I've seen a few used clusters from 1997 & 1998 cars on e-bay that look identical, but wonder if they will work.
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I put a set of the new Goodyear TripleTred all season tires on my '99 OBW about 5,000 miles ago. I live in Oregon (spelled R-A-I-N country), and couldn't be more satisfied.
Hi, I'm looking for good all season tires for my Outback Wagon. I want something with good traction that goes well in the snow and rain. The stock tires wore well but didn't have very good snow traction. Any suggestions would be appreciated. THANKS! -
The Speedometer in my '99 Outback Wagon is intermittently inoperative and I believe it's the speedometer head that's defective (no computer codes set). Does anyone know of a repair shop that repairs speedo heads, or know where I could find a used speedo for an automatic trans '99 Outback?
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The speedo on my '99 OBW with Auto Trans also works intermittently. I tried the windshield wiper button trick you described with no effect.
I have had an intermittent speedometer on our 99 outback with auto tranny for quite a while. I have been too lazy to fix it.Our cruise works regardless of whether the speedometer is working.
Please try something for me...When the speedometer quits working hit the front windshield wiper button several times very quickly. Does it come back on? Works almost every time on ours, which makes me think it is the speedometer head or a bad ground.
I think the sensor(s) are further back on the top of the tranny. I can look in the FSM and let you know if nobody else chimes in.
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The speedometer in my '99 OBW (automatic transmission) works intermittently. The CEL is not illuminated, and wiggling the wires between the speedo head, computer, and transmission have no effect. Any suggestions regarding diagnosing this malady will surely be appreciated!
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Many DIY Auto Parts Stores will diagnose your system at no charge. In my area, Shucks Auto Supply or Auto Zone do it free. Remember though, just because the trouble code shows a particular malfunction (ie 0325 knock sensor), that doesn't mean the sensor is defective, it means there is a problem in that circuit. Often times the problem is a bad connection or poor ground.
Hi folks - this is my first post to the forum.My 1995 Legacy check engine light came on the other day and I want to diagnose the problem by reading the trouble codes. The problem is that I can't find the dang LED that is supposed to blink when the ignition key is ON.
I removed the dashboard panel below the steering wheel to expose the wiring and connectors. I see what appears to be the computer module (a gray metal box about 3x5"), but there are no LEDs visible on it. I have used a mirror to check behind the box with no luck.
Does anyone know where the computer is located on my 95 Legacy (auto, 2.2L) or if the computer has the LED at all? I'd rather not buy an OBD2 monitor if I can just read the blinking LED as I used to do on my dearly departed Oldsmobile.
Thanks for your help!
Regards,
Mark
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Do you have a digital ohm meter? If so, disconnect the electrical connector between the knock sensor and the wiring harness and check the resistance. It should be 400K -560K. If not, replace the knock sensor. If within range, disconnect the electrical connector at the ECM (on the floorboard on the passenger side and check the resistance between the #3 terminal and ground. If significantly different than your reading at the knock sensor, you've likely got a broken wire or bad connection. E-mail me if you need to know where the electrical connectors are. It's probably a bad knock sensor, but no sense in replacing a part if not necessary. I've got a good used OEM knock sensor that was installed but not used if you want to save some money.
My ongoing saga.... Finally read the proper code from ECU. P0325. I decided first on replacing the fuel filter since it was cheap and easy. WOW, what a difference! Car runs so much smoother and acceleration is noticably better.I noticed how bright and shiny the new filter thing is. Car has 125k and is 4 years old. I do not recall this being changed, ever! Isn't it suppose to be at every 24k service?
CEL came on again. Thought I had it licked.
P0325 is a knock sensor malfunction. Is this one of those codes that actually means what it says? Or can it be related to anything else? I have never modified my knock sensor. I've read and followed the advice about cleaning and checking resistance and wire continuity.
Need advice. I love my Sube ('00 Forester), but I'm starting to have dreams with bright yellow lights
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I put a set of the new Goodyear Triple-Tred tires on my 1999 OBW about 5,000 miles ago and highly recommend them for wet weather driving (I live in Eugene Oregon). I've been driving for 36-years and have never owned a better tire!
I'm looking to replace the tires on my 2000 Legacy L, and after spending a lot of time at tirerack.com & some similar sites, I've narrowed the field down to Michelin Hydro-Edge or Bridgestone Turanza LS-T, both of which get high ratings.I live in Vancouver BC, so rain is a big factor. Most of my driving is in the city, but once a month or so we'll be heading down to Portland to visit with family.
Does anyone have any experience with either of these tires, or anything else they might recommend? My mechanic is recommending tires made by Falken, but they must be pretty new, 'cause there's not much info about them.
Thanks.
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Another option you may want to consider is to change the seat foam. It's available new from your dealer for about $100.
I have a 96 legacy L and the seat (drivers) is sagging. Long commutes irritate my back. My mothers car (2wd 95 legacy L) has the same problem. Are the seats in a WRX any better, or will they do the same thing? Also, will they bolt right up in place of my Legacy seats, or will they need modification?Rob
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You're going to get answers all over the board on this question...My advice (25 years as a professional auto mechanic - not Subaru) is to follow the owners manual. If it calls for 5w30 petroleum based oil, then that is what I'd use! While synthetic or synthetic blends purport to be better (whatever better is???), most japanees engine run an easy 200,000 miles using what the manufacturer recommends. Just one man's opinion.
I'm doing a thorough tune up to my "new" Legacy wagon and, of course, an oil change is called for. Any preferences from you all as to what motor oil to use for a Subie 2.2? I've always liked Valvoline in my Detroit iron and was planning to use either a synthetic or synthetic blend in my Subaru. The car has almost 150,000 miles on it. -
The speedometer on my '99 Outback Wagon stopped working yesterday, but is working again today. My factory service manual gives a test procedure to use only when the 'check engine' light is illuminated; mine is not. Anyone got any experience diagnosing an intemittent problem like this?? Sure appreciate any advice.
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Check the automatic transmission cooling lines where they attach to the radiator. It might just be a loose hose clamp. If it line is bad, it is easy to change.
Thanks to all those who responded to my last post about cooling, I replaced an upside-down, aftermarket thermostat with a OEM Subaru rightside up and it stopped overheating, imagine that! Anyway, now I go to look under my car, and I find some reddish oil around the bottom of the front of the car. It drips, not a whole lot, but enough to make me notice. I imagine it's either transmission fluid or power steering fluid, but why would it be under the front, right under the headlight area? I checked the levels, and they seem fine, should I be worried, or just keep the fluid levels up? The car is running fine, by the way.Thanks
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Has anyone removed the left (driver side) cylinder head on an '87 Wagon in the vehicle? My manual says 'in some cases, the engine may need to be removed'. I don't mind pulling the engine, but don't want to if it isn't necessary.
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I'm replacing the leaking camshaft seals in my son's 1987 GL10 Turbo Wagon this weekend and also need to reseal the camshaft housing (where the housing meets the head) on the passenger side. Has anyone removed the camshaft housing in the car? Any tips you'd care to share? Sure appreciate any advice.
Phillip
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The rod bearing is locked into the connecting rod with a tang or pin that prevents the bearing from spinning inside the connecting rod - the bearing slides on a film of oil around the crankshaft. If the rod bearing siezes onto the crankshaft, the bearing will spin inside the connecting rod - very serious problem!
Phillip I know very litttle about engines but I am curious as to what spun rod bearing is. Forgive me for being engine illiterate. When the dealer emptied the oil out they claimed to see chrome particles. Are comparing apples to apples here. -
I need to remove the engine from my sons' '87 Wagon to replace a leaking rear main seal but am concerned about removing the exhaust system. The exhaust studs & nuts (at the heads) are badly rusted and coroded; I expect they will break when I try to remove them. I don't have access to a torch, so heating the nuts is not an option. Any suggestions regarding removal of these nuts will be greatly appreciated!
Speedometers Legacy and Outback
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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The odometers are easily re-set; if you've got the ability to change the speedo in your instrument cluster (it's not very difficult), you'll do fine either swapping your old odometer into the replacement used speedo head or re-setting the odometer in your new speedo head. I doub't the spray cleaner will make any difference; the ususal problem with these speedos is the PC board that activates the meter. A sharp electronic technician could probably replace the defective diode, capacitor or transistor in the PC board, but since a new speedo costs less than $150 and complete used can be had for less than $50 (I just bought one on e-bay for $21), it's probably not worth the trouble.