Phillip
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Posts posted by Phillip
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The front windshield wipers on my '99 Outback Wagon hit the wiper stop on the bottom and the windshield trim on the side of the glass - the arc of travel is too great. Does anyone know if this is adjustable?
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I need to replace the rear wheel bearings on my '99 OBW and have access to a Hub Tamer. Has anyone on this board used one, and if so, do you have any advice for me before start?
Second question, my parts book shows 3 seals, one of which is $52. Is there a better (cheaper) place to buy them? Sure appreciate any advice! Thanks
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I'm getting some rumbling noise from the back of my '99OBW and suspect a bad wheel bearing. I tried jacking up all 4 wheels in an attempt to listen to the rear wheel bearings with a stethascope, but the rear wheels won't spin (only the front). If I accellerate hard on gravel, both front and rear wheels spin, but not with the car jacked up. Question? how can I check the rear wheel bearings?
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My 1999 OBW is making a rumbling sound that I suspect is a bad wheel bearing, but I can't locate where the sound is comming from. The sound is constant with the steering wheel in the straight position or when turning right. If I move the steering wheel slightly to the left, the noise nearly disappears.
Thinking I could find the noise with a stethascope, I put the car on jackstands and had an assistant accelerate to 40 mph. Unfortunately, only the right front wheel spun. I know I've got power to all wheels as I can spin both front and back wheels on gravel. Is there a way to 'fool' the AWD system and make front and rear wheels spin when jacked up?
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You can toss the gasket and just use RTV. Clean the pan and the transmission surface real well and dry both surfaces. Put a 1/4" bead on the pan - be sure to go around all bolt holes, and bolt it back on. Unless you've got another leak, that should seal it up.
how expensive is a new pan. if it is the pan i want to get a new one.where can i get one, is it a dealer only part or would a parts store have one.
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Great suggestion about the spring paper clips! I think you're right about AllData, I've heard the do-it-yourself version is pretty lacking - the professional version is top notch. Thanks to everyone for the advice.
The one special tool that I use, that is never mentioned in any repair manual for a Subaru that I have ever seen, is a large spring clip (the kind that you use to hold papers together, like these http://www08.quillcorp.com/Catalog/Browse/Sku.asp?PageType=1&sku=008267&EFFORT_CODE=901&FIND_NUMBER=721000 ). I clip the belt to the pulley over the mark so that the belt will not slip off whiles I'm doing something else. It also assures that the belt doesn't skip a timing mark when the tensioner is released.For commercial vehicles, AllData may be the best, but I have found them lacking when it come to personal vehicles.
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The short block was replaced and the valves resurfaced about 25k ago, so all should be okay. Unfortunately, I didn't have a new belt the weekend I assembled it and now get to spend a weekend doing it! Thaks for the tip about re-torquing the oil pump.
Phillip
Cam & Crank seals and replace the oil pump o-ring and reseal the pump. Make sure you tighten the oil pump back cover screws.The new tensioners are not as good as the old. You can switch if you get the mounting bracket and associated parts off an 95 or older 2.2. IMHO
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Why AllData? I manage a large commercial fleet vehicle & equipment repair facility and we subscribe to AllData. For a commercial shop, it is an essential tool! We don't do any import work, so when I work on my wife's Outback, I use it and this board as a reference. Thanks for the response regarding the water pump - from the photo I looked at, the pump seemed clear of the pulleys.
Howdy Phillip,All those special tools are definitely nice to have but not required. You could get by with most common garage tools and some improvisations. If you do a search, you'd find various methods used by other members including but not limited to breaker bars while cranking the motor to novel factory special tools.
You need to stay away from AllData and hang around here more often. I have never taken off cam pulleys for T belt and water pump job.
And yes I've always used the 'C' clamp to compress the actuator, just do it slowly like you've said. Find a small pin to fit inside that little locking hole on your tensioner in advance.
Why didn't you get a Haynes manual?
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I'm planning to replace the timing belt on my 1999 Outback 2.5 engine this weekend and have a few questions about special tools I hope someone can help me with. (1) AllData shows a special cranksahft holding tool used when removing and reinstalling the crank pulley. Can I hold the flywheel through the ignition timing view port at the rear of the engine, or is the holding tool required? (2) I also plan to replace the water pump - AllData says to remove both camshaft pulleys for access; after looking at a photograph of the engine, I question if that is necessary. If required, how do I hold the cam from turning when removing the bolt? (3) I understand the tensioner must be compressed in an upright position with a hydraulic press using not more than 66 psi. Could I use a large 'C' clamp to slowly compress the piston? Thanks in advance for any advice!
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If I understand correctly, assuming I have the engine at TDC with the crank timing mark lined up, only the left side (drivers side) cams will rotate? In addition to being no stranger to OHC engines, with years of experience changing timing belts, I've got the factory manual and the End Wrench article. Both describe a procedure for recompressing the tensioner using a press and not exceeding 66psi to compress the piston. Did you bend the rod in your tensioner using this procedure? I appreciate you taking the time to explain this process I'd hate to pull the heads to replace valves (or worse!) Thanks again.
Looking at Drivers side, Cams are loaded (spring pressure) THEY WILL ROTATE as you release the belt. I used a buddy to hold with wrenches and slowly release spring pressure.they will go in opposite directions about 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn. Just allow them to move SLOWLY:eek:.
Check out this article
It fully explains this.
One last Item Are ya replacing the Tensioner ? Because its a hydo piston that if you try to RECOPPRESS it most likely will Bend the rod. No tension on the belt, Belt jumps time, Wipes out evey Vavle in the engine:slobber:.
Might as well do Water pump and Check Oil pump bolts while your in there!!!
DaveMac:brow:
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It's time to replace the timing belt on my '99 Outback Wagon. I've changed dozens of timing belts in my career, but never one on this type engine. How important are the cam holding tools? If essential, can a suitable tool be fabricated? How about the crank holding tool? Can the engine be held by the flywheel thorough the ignition timing visability port at the rear of the engine? I've got the factory manual, but any tips would sure be appreciated. Thanks!
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Time to replace the front struts on my '99 Legacy Outback. Can anyone recommend a brand or best place to buy? Thanks
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Coat the inside of your plug wire boots with diletric grease (both ends) and they won't break next time you have to remove them. You'll find it at any auto parts store. Don't use any other kind or lubricant!
Hi All,Well the damp chilly weather has finally forced me to get off my rump roast and change the wires and plugs. I've been having misfiring and difficult start (sparking) in the damp weather- this combined with the fact that the wires look to be the original- has lead me to the conclusion that plugs and wires are suspect. There is also some arcing that can be seen at night!
I've just spent the last 2 hours removing bits to get to the plugs and finally got #4 out (what a PITA!) and finally tracked down some wires at NAPA across the border in Buffalo. I'm losing light so I'll probably finish in the AM- any tips for re-assembly?? The plugs were Bosch Plat +4; are these pre-gapped out of the package? Does anyone know the correct gap and have plug suggestions?
Thanks in advance,
Mike
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Was it tight getting the head off, or just removing the cam housing? I had the cam housing off a few years ago for another oil leak. It wasn't a piece of cake, but not that difficult.
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I did them both on my 89 GL-10 about 6 months ago in the car. I had nothing to take the engine out with so I had to do it in the car. Drivers side was the harder side. That is for sure. But it is not impossible. Just a bit tighter on the drivers side. -
Thanks for the quick response.
You can get either head out without pulling the engine. -
I need to replace the drivers side headgasket on my son's 1987 GL10 Wagon and would prefer not to pull the engine if possible. Has anyone done this repair in the car? I resealed the camshaft housing on that side of the car a few years ago and had no problem tearing in down that far. It wouldn't appear to be much more work to pull the head (sure wish I'd done it then!), but I'm not sure if there is a clearance problem getting the head off the engine. I'd sure appreciate hearing from anyone with first-hand experience.
Thanks
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Have you considered a new shortblock? My '99 OBW spun two rod bearings, destroying the crank last year and I found the cheapest route was new. I paid $1250 for a new shortblock from Subaru. With an oil pump and gasket set, I had about $1700 in the engine. We've got valve grinding equipment in the shop I manage, so the valve grind didn't cost me anything, but even if you have a machine shop rebuild your heads, you'll likely have less than $2,000 innvested.
My '98 engine block has a hole blewn through the top of it.
I can't find any good used engines for under $2K, and I hear that getting parts for these mo-fo's runs like $450.
There's a denver [where i live] company called CCR that'll get me a rebuilt for like $2800.
I want another good 5-7 years with this car. What are the pros and cons of a rebuilt engine? How can I check up on if CCR does a good job with them or not?
I'm new to this site and i'm thankful for your feedback!!
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One advantage to removing the pan is you can see if there are any metal shavings or other debris, indicating future trouble. Sucking it out of the fill tube is faster though.
I've found posts on changing your own tranny fluid, but, I'm lazy. Is the method that the oil change places use a good idea? You know, they connect the tranny to some pump machine and pump the oil through. I was thinking about having them do this with Mobil 1. -
I manage a large vehicle & equipment fleet (1000+ units) and have done business with this trans shop for many years. I trust their work and am sure they will take care of me if the unit fails. I just don't like strange noises in vehicles. Since it hasn't gotten worse and works fine, I guess I'll just ignore it. Thanks for the reply.
What sort of warranty is on the rebuilt trans? If they say it's nothing, and don't want to look into it now. Tell them to give you a guarantee in writing that says any damage/failure that can be tracked down to their work will be covered by them. -
My '99 Outback Wagon has a definate snap or click as it upshifts from second to third. You don't hear it unless the window is down. I didn't notice it prior to the trans rebuild about 5,000 miles ago. The shop that overhauled my transmission thinks it's a solnoid making the noise and said not to worry about it. The noise hasn't gotten any worse in 5,000 miles, the trans works fine, and the fluid isn't burnt, however, I don't like strange sounds. Has anyone experienced a problem such as this?
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How's the keyway in the crankshaft look? If you're lucky, it's okay and you can replace the pulley, woodriff key, and bolt (yep, change all three!). If the keyway in the crank is damaged, I'd try the JB weld trick someone else mentioned and lock-tite the bolt. If you're lucky, it will hold. Cheap to try. Good luck.
Thanks guys , took off the belts tonight and found pully nut was lose enough to take off with my fingers . Inside of pully is eaten out and not much of key is left . My question is, is that key part of the crankshaft or is it one of those slide in cause thers not much left of it. Lots of login problems here,had to change password 3 times. Site will not email back wuth answers. -
To determine how far to go, I'd ask myself how much longer I planned to keep the car, and what kind of shape the rest of it is in. If the car is pretty well used up and you don't care how much longer it will last, I'd just fix the bad valve and when something else fails, junk the car. If I planned on keeping it more than another 10,000 miles, I'd have both heads reconditioned. You've already done the hard work - the engine is out and the heads are comming off; no sense in doing it again later in my opinion. Regarding the valve guides, the machine shop cannot grind the seats unless the valve guides are within spec. Rather than replace the guides, you could have them knurled (expanded with a knurling tool then reamed to size). While it's not as good as replacing the guides, I've had good experience with many OHV engines - your machine shop can advise you best on knurling and on your cylinder head reconditioning questions. If the guides are badly worn, the valve stems may also be worn. Perhaps a used set of heads from a wrecking yard may be a cheaper option (have them inspected by a qualified machinest before installing them). Regarding reusing head-bolts, you'll likely get a variety of opinions. I typically reuse them, and have never had a failure. Bottom line, cheap fixes are generally cheap only in the short-run. That said, I've made lots of cheap fixes when I had little money - not many of those fixes worked out in the long-run. Let us know what you decide to do.
After diagnosing no compression on #3, a leakdown test shows problem with exhaust valves.Engine is out.
Removal of left head reveals a cracked exhaust valve.
So now some decisions and...so I have some questions.
I decided to remove both heads and (at least) replace both headgaskets along with the broken valve......
Here's my dilemma.... The original compression test showed even compression ....but not very high compression...around 125-130 on the other three cylinders. So I had planned to do complete head reconditioning and valve job to both heads, but adding up all the machine shop and parts cost is getting pretty expensive
So.....????
1. Should we do a valve job on both heads...to improve compression or just fix the one cracked valve.
2. Should valve guides be replaced? They're expensive.
3. Is it OK to re-use the head bolts? They're also expensive.
Is there a standard list of recommended tips/ cautions and parts list to replace during valve/head gasket repair?
Warren C
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My 1999 Outback Wagon required a transmission overhaul at 96,000. The trans shop said I got off cheap at $2,000. Additionally, the engine spun 2-rod bearings at 91,000 miles, resulting in a new short-block. My wife loves the car...too bad, it will be my last Subaru.
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How do I find the archive with this project?
There's a great write up (a do-it-yourself project) with excellent pictures in the archives.
Wheel Bearing Grease
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I'm replacing the front wheel bearings on my '99 OBW this weekend. The new bearings (Timkin) have a light film of grease; should this be cleaned and the new bearings repacked? If so, what is the best grease to use?