93leg

I have had past problems with the fuel gauge sending unit in the tank, but when I repaired that, there was no debris I could see in the tank. The prefilter screen was in place over the pump inlet, so I don't think debris could be causing a blockage. Keep on suggesting.....we'll figure it out sooner, or later. To keep things time related......the sending unit was repaired way after this other problem started.

Yes, my car is an automatic and I will give your suggestion a try. I know it has me baffled, and I consider myself as someone who can usually reason out a problem. Is there testing equipment for coil packs? Thanks for the help.

From Frag: Vacuum test for restricted exhaust A few days ago I promised someone (searched for the post but did'nt find it) I would post the procedure to test for a clogged converter with a vacuum gauge. I'm finally back home so here it is: Connect the gauge to the intake manifold (dowstream from the throttle). «Run the engine at about 2500 rpm for about 15 seconds. If vacuum drops during the period and does not incrase when you close the throttle, you're almost certainly looking at a restricted exhaust.» Hope that's not to late to help. __________________ Gilles (Montreal) 1992 Loyal wagon, 5sp, 192,000 kms, june 99 - stolen 0ct 00. 1996 Legacy Brighton wagon, 5sp, 200,000 kms, dec 2000 - for ever ? Report this post to a moderator | IP: Logged 09-28-2003 01:01 PM 93leg Newbie Registered: Aug 2003 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 8 I Think You Were Looking For Me..THANKS Well, I'm going to give it a try once I find a good vacuum gauge. I hope I can soon find something, because winter is approaching and I don't have a heated garage. Thanks Again.

Well, I'm going to give it a try once I find a good vacuum gauge. I hope I can soon find something, because winter is approaching and I don't have a heated garage. Thanks Again.

Pulled error codes last night and found a 32, O2 sensor. I know that is not the problem since it was replaced. May be a sign of a restricted catalytic converter. Back pressure may be causing the faulty O2 readings. I'll keep looking.

I don't recall any suspicious noise when this happened. Is the exhaust a single welded unit? Can the Catalytic Converter be removed, or replaced?

Does anyone know of a method to check the catalytic converter?

Well, I've tried to use the great timing light idea, and I also connected a pressure gauge to help diagnose the problem on my 93 Legacy, but all I find are more problems and questions. Now I have experienced not a missing, but more of a dying condition while pushing the car. Within a mile stretch on an incline, and close to wide open throttle the car pulls fine, but then it feels like it runs out of fuel. It slows down to the point of shutting off, although there is no drop in fuel pressure, and the plugs are still firing. When I try to restart it, turns over for a few seconds, and I'm not sure, but I think there is a lack of spark for the first few revolutions before it kicks off, and then it runs rough for a few seconds. I have repeated this condition a couple of times. I am going to recheck for codes tonight. Any thoughts?

Sounds like a good move. New fluid bled through, so when does pass through the ABS unit, at the least it is new, clean fluid. Glad it all worked out.

Well, still trying to diagnose the problem. I haven't had a chance to use the timing light idea yet, but the problem is still there. However, during a long trip another interesting thing happened. While traveling up a grade for a long distance using the cruise control, the demand for more throttle caused a loss of power. The car slowed as if it was starving for fuel. By backing off it recovered. But during a 75 MPH straight away, there was no loss of power. I have checked the fuel line pressure.....all seems fine. I unplugged the vacuum line to the regulator, and reinstalling it I watched the pressure readings. All followed the manual specifications. How about a volume check? Any ideas?

First of all my experience is limited to a 93 Legacy with ABS. I have not had the pleasure of replacing my disc brake pads yet, but from doing the job on an earlier Subaru model, the FRONT caliper pistons needed to be turned, or rotated into their bores. This was due to the emergency brake mechanism inside the (front only) caliper bore. With ABS there really shouldn't be a dirty fluid contamination problem because the fluid will mostly bypass the ABS internals. The fluid does pass through the ABS unit, but not throughout the whole system. The fluid only passes through all the ABS internals if the system is activated. This is my take on the issue, I hope it helps.