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glennda5id

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Everything posted by glennda5id

  1. If you have an automatic. I recommend removing the toqrue converter/flex plate bolts and using a pry bar to lock everything down. This is pretty easy to do.
  2. Subaru officially recommends 105k or 7 years! If this car has not had a timing belt done then it is well past due. That being said, the 1.8L motor was not interference so you can just drive the car until it breaks and then replace it and not worry about engine damange. However you will need to tow the car to where ever you are going to work on it. I think the car is a bit over priced especially without AWD. The AWD's manuals are super fun to drive. With the default 50/50 split they feel like driving a RWD car. I own a 93 Legacy but its 2WD Auto. There is not a day that goes by that I don't think about swapping it to AWD w/stick.
  3. Do you think its worth it to fix it myself. Do you think the pump and torque converter are good for another 50k?
  4. I've seen most of those and called those folks in TX. They want $275 to ship and I am considering it but I am concerned because it is so cheap...lol. The place in north hollywood doesn't have the mileage listed so I assume it is unknown or very high. I could give them a call.
  5. I don't want to put a lot of money into the car. My only concern with buying and having it shipped is if there is an issue I am out $300 for initial and return shipping on my $300 transmission....lol. If shipping is $100 it is better. I see two at this yard in SD for $300 and $350 and they want $150 to ship which is reasonable just worried if there is an issue and I need to return it.
  6. The long and short of it is that I have been unable to source a reasonably priced trans locally so I am going to get a junk yard to ship me one. I found one with low miles from a 95 Impreza. Think that's a good idea? My only concern is if there is an issue then I am out the shipping I believe. Gary, I currently live in SoCal. My folks live in Bowie, MD and I used to live in College Park and then DC. Moved out to CA about a year ago.
  7. Gary, When you swapped in a FWD 4EAT for your AWD 4EAT, did you have an issue with the rear mount. Are they different on the two transmissions?
  8. If I take option 2, basically leave everything alone, is there going to be any loss in power or efficiency to the front wheels. Is it bad to just leave the rear output shaft. If I leave it, it shouldn't leak as there is a seal there already. This would be the equivalent of having an AWD car and removing the rear drive shaft. Also, one of the posters mentioned different different mount locations for the two transmissions. I have heard of folks putting a 2WD 4EAT into a AWD Subaru, I assume I can do the reverse.
  9. Pesslab, I'm confused, I will be leaving in the rear output shaft but swapping the rear cover from the 2WD 4EAT? How will that work?
  10. John, Probably not worth the effort. There is another one locally that is FWD, i just really want this one that was supposed to be FWD because it is really low miles. I appreciate the offer though.
  11. So my legacy is a 2WD and I need a new trans and have access to a low miles AWD trans for a great price. I'm trying to figure out if this AWD trans will work and if I can remove the rear drive shaft or if its okay to leave it in there. I have access to a 2WD 4EAT that I can swap parts from. Could I take parts from my 2WD to turn my 4EAT AWD into a 2WD. My other question is, with no power to the duty C, my understanding is that the center diff will be locked at 50/50. Does this matter with nothing hooked up to the rear output shaft? I would love more than anything to turn that car into AWD, but that is a lot of work and cost.
  12. So it sounds like removing the AWD part of it is sort of out of the question. If I use this transmission. Is it bad on the transmission to just run it as is with no rear driveshaft attached? The trans will be hooked up to a TCU that won't have any wiring for the duty C solenoid so the duty solenoid will not be energized. Is this an issue?
  13. Is it possible and/or advisable to take a 4EAT set up for AWD and configure it for 2WD by removing the center diff and rear output shaft and covering up the hole? I ask this question because I need to replace the trans on my 2WD Legacy, however it might be of interest to folks who are doing special applications like building a mid engine car. This is one of those special projects and I think they do it, but I don't know how. http://www.factoryfive.com/kits/project-818/
  14. So the clowns at the parts place had the trans mislabled or something. It looks like it is a Phase I 4EAT but set up for AWD. I almost missed the output shaft. I am going to start another thread, but is it possible to use this in a 2WD application and remove the center diff and cap it up with the cap from my 2WD trans?
  15. I have rebuilt a GM 4L60 aka 700R4 before and rebuilding an automatic is something I would like to do again. The main issue is cost. I have found 2 4EAT's with less than 120k on them < $400. The cost for a rebuild kit with new frictions is $200 and the cost for a new torque converter is ~$200 - $300. Throw in manuals and other small things and my cost is going to be $450 - $550 to rebuild plus my time. I could do the rebuild without a new torque converter but I don't think that is a good idea. I want another 50k miles or so out of this car and I think I can easily get that from one of these used transmissions which is also a less expensive route.
  16. If the clutch pedal is out (not pressed in) then the clutch and flywheel will be locked together and the input shaft of the transmission will be turning. Since it is not in gear it is not going anywhere. The noise goes away when you push the clutch pedal in because this separates the clutch and the flywheel so the transmission input shaft stops spinning. Most likely the noise is due to what ever is spinning along with the input shaft and not related to the clutch itself. I am not a manual gear box expert so I couldn't tell you what.
  17. Also, the shaft axle coming out of the front diff for a G10 2WD Auto Impreza only shows one part, 38415AA030, which is the same for all 90-99 Legacy's. This is the part with the splines on it. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_3/train/differential_transmission/
  18. Looking at some parts it looks like the 93-94 FWD Impreza with standard transmissions have different drive shafts, but the 93+ FWD and AWD automatics all have the same driveshafts. I can see this being true as maybe the standard trans they used in 93-94 was different, but i would be surprised with the 4EAT's having a difference.
  19. I just did a cross check on rockauto and all of the CV half shafts for 93 Impreza cross referenced to 90-99 Legacy's. Where did you see that the spline count was different? I don't want to go this route if I need to swap shafts as well. There is a 95 Legacy trans i can grab, but more money.
  20. Just lost reverse on my 93 Legacy L 2WD with 225k. Considering either rebuilding transmission myself or replacing with a lower mileage unit. After cost and time considerations I am most likely going to swap in a junk yard unit. My question is what are my options. I know the 92-94 had a final drive ratio of 3.9, but since I am 2WD drive does it matter if I swap in a unit with 4.11 gearing from an impreza? Will this confuse the TCU? (My research suggests the answer is it will be fine) I have been doing a lot of reading and it seems like almost any 2WD Impreza or Legacy trans from 90-98 should fit mechanically and electrically. The only difference will be the drive ratio. I have found a 93 Impreza 1.8L 2WD trans locally for a reasonable cost with low miles. Should I go with this? It will have 4.11 gears but in my mind that says performance mod.
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