redrocket98

Something that has gotten me puzzled from yesterday is that the foz tried to overheat yesterday on a drive. It's had no signs of wanting to overheat, radiator has always been full when I checked it, no signs of leaking anywhere. Out of nowhere yesterday heat hand started to climb a little, the ac started blowing hot. Pull over upper hose is scorching hot, overflow is up. One of the heater core hose was fairly cold while the other was hot. Let it cool for a little while and take back off starts again. Rev a lil hand goes higher, while I was pulled over with it running it got cooler when I did that. Get it home drain the system check the stat it's open, closes in the cooler air outside but has some jelly looking crap on it like something gelled. Flush it a little and refill the system, changed the radiator cap, it seemed weak and all seems well so far. Fans cycle where they were constant before. Odd thing is not much coolant came out when drained. Fluke air pocket? Possible the cap was my culprit allowing to leak somewhere?

Filled the hole with the jb weld epoxy and all seems well so far.

Saw some jb weld steel reinforced epoxy putty thinking about trying that for now and see how it goes

The pipe is tight and if I put my finger in that casting mark my sound goes away

ok i found my problem but my question is how do i fix it. Right at the lowest point of the egr system on the intake manifold there is an open hole on the manifold. Seems like something should be there but isn't. Can i plug it? seems like its exhaust gases leaking out there. If i put my finger over the hole and idle it up its quiet like it should be. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=977689 its the little circle below the fuel supply like in the pic that it blowing air out on mine

http://s416.photobucket.com/user/lil_white_cavy/media/foresterexhaustleak.mp4.html not a great video but maybe it will help

Seems more like a ticking noise, around the egr area. Possible to be egr pipe but looks like everything is there.

Had the foz back for a few weeks now. All seems to be going well so far minus an exhaust leak, can't seem to track it down. Shop replaced the exhaust gaskets but its still there. If you listen it seems directly below the starter, exhaust manifold? If I put my head where I think it is it seems to be somewhere else. Any ideas? Driving me crazy

its at the shop now ready to get swapped. cant wait eventhough i know they will have a ton of questions about it..... anybody wants the dohc that needs rebuilt when i get it out, let me know. i need to recoup some funds

broken timing belt was the ultimate downfall to mine. definately be a project block

thanks, i'm ready to get this thing swapped and send that dohc to the scrap heap.

i finally tracked down a 95 ej22 w/egr to swap into my 98 forester. true question is what do i need to look out for? i'm having to take it into a shop for the swap and i know they wont know the differences no matter how small they may be. My accessories should bolt up to the ej22 correct? and pretty much be pnp?

i was hoping it would work. otherwise its going to cost a lot more than i want to spend to get it done.

so i would be good with the ej25 manifold? i would have around 300 in the heads completely rebuilt, another 200 in a ej22 timing kit. and then another 100 or so in head gaskets. then just assembly... sound right? i just dont know if i could pull it off myself, eventhough it would be just pull the heads change the gaskets, put the new heads on and change timing components.

so the intake and ecu would all stay ej25 but all the timing components would be ej22. so i would basically buy a gates ej22 timing belt kit with water pump. use a subaru water pump gasket and subaru thermostat and be good to go? also using the ej25 head gaskets i'm assuming. not really looking for power or anything just something a little more reliable over the ej25 setup.

i have a 98 forester 5MT and found a set of dualport heads nots sure on the year. just trying to see what all i would need to attempt it. would love for it to be just straight on forward with ej22 heads and the rest stay the same but i'm pretty sure that i would have to use the ej22 timing?

what did you have to use to build the frankenmotor? found some dual port ej22 heads that i could use with my dohc ej25? would i need the intake for the ej22 heads? being that the ej22 heads are dual port would i need the y-pipe considering? hoping to be just a matter of changing heads and head gaskets and having something with a little less worry over the way it is now.

what do you mean by hose loop? tie them in together under the hood?

i'm wanting to go from the dohc ej25 "98 Forester" to a 95 ej22, "obvious reasons, dual port exhaust that year" would something like this be plug n play, getting a 95 auto motor with the egr valve. my forester is a 5mt by the way. some i've asked say wiring harness will have to change some say direct fit, plug n play. pretty sure the head gaskets are shot in it now and i could probably do the ej22 cheaper than having the head gaskets replaced and worry about it again.

i've had it go to the red once, and the other times about 3/4ths... but once i see it and turn the ac on and the fans start running it goes back down.

i feel like i have been running into this problem with my 98 Forester. had it get hot due to a leaking radiator...i replaced it, the upper and lower hose, tstat only had about 300 miles on it and did the radiator cap a couple of days ago. lately if i'm slowing down, coming to a stop or hill/incline the temp. wants to climb up...i haven't heard my fans kick on any of these times unless i turn the ac on and then they run and it cools it back down... beginning to not feel 100% on the correct turn of the tstat, acts like a vaporlock at times. also should mention that the previous owner had replaced the HG's probably 5months before i bought it... i see no bubbling in the overflow, feel like the tstat isn't always functioning like it should and the fans don't seem to be kicking on like they should with temp's... only with the ac on... any idea's of what i'm looking at?

no connector looks like it belongs in the big plug under the dash

any idea what color wire the vss is in the wiring harness.....i've noticed a single white/ black stripe wire in the underdash harness that isn't attached to anything, like its been ripped out

what works the easiest on breaking it loose after the pb blaster...

i read that before and actually tried it on the P0500 but no avail... i get the P0500 and P1540... and i have no idea on how to try to get that sensor out...