Whitedog

So golucky, the filter could be on either end of the oil feed line? There was nothing at the turbo end. Unless I hear otherwise I think I may, possibly look at the ACVS banjo bolts as well, just to be sure. If nothing else, it will be some training for me.

WT, I'm still unsure about that P0011 code. That thread that you linked is about P0011 AND P0021. The thing is, he's just getting the P0011 code and what I read there, the root cause was related to something common to both banks. But maybe that's how this starts: bank 1 is the first to have troubles because of the way the oil flows then if you ignore it long enough,it eventually starts failing in the other bank.

I don't see how to post a picture of the money shot, but the compressor side was starting to hit. Good call on that. I pulled out the banjo bolt that screws through the oil feed into the turbo and nothing is there. I assume that it has been removed already? The intake hose mentioned, is that the one from the air filter that connects to the turbo? I only broke two bolts. One was one of the top nut/bolts so that will be easy. The other was a heatshield bolt that may cause some heartache, but not too bad. I need to pull that intake hose all the way out for inspection. TMIC hoses all looked good from what I can see. The oil drain line looks like it will be an adventure. Any tips there? I was able to just pull up hard and it came out. I'm doubtful it will go back together as easy. Maybe I will pull the bottom clamp and put the hose on the turbo for installation?

BTW, under $1000 for the turbo from the dealer which I didn't think was too bad of a price.

Let me know if you think I should start a new thread here... Got the car here and it is throwing a P0011 code for bank 1 intake timing over advanced. And it has a high frequency rattle once you get into a bit of boost. He is convinced that he wants me to put a turbo on it and since the noise only comes on when boost is climbing, I think he is right. But what about the code? I took it for a short drive after saving and clearing the code and it didn't come back. I don't know his oil change history, but do these things like to throw cam timing codes with dirty oil? And could the rattle have to do with cam timing? And what should I expect to see for boost?

Thanks for the info. He said he just uses the car to haul his kayaks and to fool around in. I told him I don't care where he fools around. Anyway, the information you guys gave, helped us decide it's just not the right idea him to upgrade the turbo. So, is there a preferred place to get a stock turbo?

Ok. Did a bit of googling and discovered that LGT turbos have nothing to do with sexual orientation, but rather, it appears to be an abbreviation for Legacy GT.

Excellent info TD. I will pass it on to my friend. It's not that he is looking for an upgrade, he's just wondering.

Hey. Long time, no see. Everything looks different here. So got a buddy with an 06 Baja and he has decided to do some preventative maintenance and replace the​ turbo. So if he decided to upgrade, what's the way to go with a mild upgrade without needing to do more work like a clutch or BOV or anything silly like that? I found a TD05-16G but I don't​ really know if that would fit the bill. What he would be looking for is maybe a bit more fun out of the car, but maybe the stock turbo would be fine if the price got out of hand with an upgrade. Are there any recommendations on where to buy? Thanks.

Hey. Long time, no see. Everything looks different here. So got a buddy with an 06 Baja and he has decided to do some preventative maintenance and replace the​ turbo. So if he decided to upgrade, what's the way to go with a mild upgrade without needing to do more work like a clutch or BOV or anything silly like that? I found a TD05-16G but I don't​ really know if that would fit the bill. What he would be looking for is maybe a bit more fun out of the car, but maybe the stock turbo would be fine if the price got out of hand with an upgrade. Are there any recommendations on where to buy? Thanks.

I'm going to see if I can find a picture I took with the motor out, I can't for the life of me figure out where it's coming from.. and it's rather thick too.. it's all on the front crossmember i figure that much it would be all on the clutch but it's never on the clutch or flywheel.. The fact that it happened on a transmission that only had 82K on it Well, I know this much about the seal leaking: It shouldn't leak out around the input shaft. There is a weep hole at the base of the T-O bearing shaft that will leak the oil onto the housing behind the the T-O bearing.

The only problem I see with this seal is that it was running crooked. I don't have a good enough camera to get pictures, but the witness wear marks on the seal lip show a wide wear pattern on one side and a narrow -almost non-existent - wear pattern on the other side. So i guess it's imperative that the seal is seated square in the bore when reassembling?

Can anyone tell me if this seal can be damaged when installing the engine? After doing the clutch, this 97 2.5 was leaking gear oil from the bell housing. From the pictures, I can't see it happening, but I will defer to the experts.

Thanks, Nat. I got it and looked it over and it looks pretty straight forward with the tooling. Now that I know what's going on, I see that I have done the same thing when replacing bushings in excavators and backhoes. I saw a YouTube video where they had a hydraulic attachment instead of the screw and that's what we used on bushings and it's sweet.

Hub tamer? Proper installation technique? I have been looking for a How-To, but haven't found one yet. Maybe there isn't one?

I'm sure it would bolt up. Beyond that, what problems would be expected?

Contact Barrett at All Wheels Driven. He may be able to help you. If you need his number, let me know.

Would EJ25 heads go on this engine?

Killer, if you would like a hand, drop me a line. $50 in fuel to Albany and back in my Jetta (unless you want to be seen in a New Beetle with another guy). I'm no expert on Subie engines, but I know my way around an engine and I have a few tools and such.

OK, CV boots are done. It looks like the strut is very close to original position and the car has just a slight pull to the right. Is it worth putting it on the rack to check alignment? At this point, it's ready to go back to work and just needs little stuff like a fog light that's out and some interior things that could use a little attention. Nothing mechanical that I know of. Even the CEL is off, so I'm not worrying about the O2 sensor.

Could also be a loose wheel. The CEL isn't on, so I'm not going to worry about the O2 until it does. Last thing is the CV boots and watch the electrical system. I brought the car in yesterday and with the key on, both headlight relays were buzzing. The brand new battery was a bit low, but I know that the kid that detailed it sat out there with the radio on and wipers wiping... So I'll keep an eye on it.

The diagram I am looking at shows the red and white wires shielded together. The Yellow/Red wire joins with another wire going to the Rear O2 sensor and the Yellow wire going to ground. This would tell me that the Red and White wires are the signal wires.

OOOOO. If you know which wires to prod, it would save me some digging.

Which would fit with it sitting for awhile. I guess that should be Sundays project.

It was on a Dodge site that they said it worked differently. They said Toyota, Honda and Subaru do things differently. If anyone has a scanner (not just a code reader) that can watch the O2 signal and let me know where it runs, would be some great information.