SubaruLegacy2003

You do have the parking brake off right?

Please explain why you don't just use the FOB to unlock the car....

My DD from '90-'94 was a '66 Beetle, put about 35,000 miles on her in about 3 1/2 years. No radio, Radio Shack Transitor with the 9v battery hanging out on the passenger seat. 6 volt, no syncros in 2nd gear, battery held in by a bent up chrome wheel dressing & a liscense plate...rebuilt the carb the day after I bought her, ran perfect the whole time I had it....man I miss that car...

All you need to remove is the caliper and the caliper bracket. Then the rotor will come right off...make sure the parking brake is released!

It's horizontal "boxer" configuration with small pistons skirts for increased fuel economy. Any comparisons to a 60's vintage motor (other than VW or Porsche) is just plain wrong. It's been proven that these motors can run for years with piston slap if it goes away quickly once it's warm. If that the case the stop worrying about it. If it still slapping after that than you might have an issue.

Sounds like the throwout bearing. Change it when the clutch goes, no worries unless it get's really, really loud & hard to operate. I had a Honda that did this for 10 years & 150,000 miles before I had to do the clutch....

It would probably cost less for you to do it with new rotors & pads. I did my rears this summer, never worked on discs before, only drums. 1st side took me about an hour (inlcudes finding tools) and the second side only about 20 minutes. Very easy, I don't think I'll ever pay to have brakes done again....

He's probably about 45 minutes away without traffic but you could try this guy. Mike 856 232 0007

I took these notes about 6 years ago in a 1990 Accord after a similar discussion. I drove pretty much the same route and similar traffic except for a few tanks where the mpg dropped considerably due to traffic: 9/22/99 360/ 13.9 25.9 87 octane 9/26/99 359/14.2 25.7 87 octane 10/4/99 366/13.7 26.7 87 octane 10/11/99 307/12.8 23.4 87 octane 10/13/99 396/14.4 27.5 93 octane 10/16/99 382/ 14.6 26.0 89 octane 10/19/99 253/ 9.8 25.8 89 octane 10/23/99 335/13.7 24.5 89 octane 10/29/99 350/15.2 23.0 89 Octane 11/9/99 372/14.1 26.4 87 Octane I got the highest MPG with the 93, but overall it did not to seem to make much difference...

They look new to me, any discoloration you see on the hub could be from the machine they put them on to do the final turning before shipment. The lack of the bevel could just be a different way to cast that part....the my .02

Turn the car on for a while, the heat of the engine will warm up the fluid....

Those holes are supposed to drain water from behind the front wheels. Pour some water down there and see if water comes out under the car. If not, the drains are clogged and they need to be cleaned. If so, try some compressed air....

Dis-engage the emergency brake?

CEL has gone on three times in the last 5 months. 1st time 5 months ago minutes after my wife fueled up. Figured it was the gas cap, had her re-attach and the code went away the next time the car was started. This past Tuesday, the CEL came on again, I had gotten gas a couple of days before, had about 90 miles on the tank, re-did the gas cap and the light went out the next time the car was started. CEL came on again yesterday, still the same tank of gas, last night I dropped the car off at an independent up the street. They scanned the computer and got: PO519 Undocumented Code so they cleared the computer and sent me on my way. Any thoughts or experience with the Undocumented code issue? I have an appointment with the dealer on Monday....any thoughts about buying a replacement gas cap beforehand and seeing if that takes care of the CEL? The independent seemed to think that if it was the cap, that was a code they should have and since they don't, it's probably an emissions issue.

Mike 856 232 0007 He's in the Deptford area (about 10 minutes from the WW bridge)

Meguiars.... I purchased thier "cleaner" wax a couple of years ago for a car exterior that I had neglected. (It was a baby blue honda accord & I just couldn't get motivated to wax it) We were getting it ready for sale and the finish was dull & in need of some help so I purchased this wax beacuse it said it would remove oxidatation etc.... In any case, about a year before my wife has sideswiped an Expedition's front bumper and it left a long scratch & crease in the rear passenger door and 1/4 panel. When I reached that section, I gave the applicator a little extra elbow grease (you generally apply just as you would any other paste wax) and damn if didn't about 95% of the damage just dissapear, I mean gone except for about a 6" crease....it removed the paint from the other car and left the Honda shiny as could be. I'm really glad that we never spent the $800 on the estimate we got for the repair. So, to make a short story long, they make good stuff, and I've used the same wax on my new Subaru with no problems, makes the car look great and it lasts around 5-6 months..... What color is the car? That makes a world of difference...the procedure for washing & waxing a black or dark car would be much more stringent that the Silver Suby that I have...

I just got my annual insurance renewal packet. My company gives me a $31.69/yr discount for having a car with DRL's. It's been 3 years and I haven't had to replace a bulb yet, but I'm pretty sure the $95 I have saved over that time will cover the cost :-)

Most definately sounds like bushing, time to get a FSM and dig in.....

I was mulling this issue over, and it occured to me that perhaps you have a linkage problem. Mis-adjusted, or something bent during installation perhaps? My 90 Accord had a linkage re-call after about 2 years and the difference in the feel of the shifts was quite noticable after the repair, just another thought....

I find the Subaru notchy, but not hard to shift. It ain't butter, but it's not like it's a bear to change gears....give it another go with the dealer, and if no satisfaction, contact SOA.

Has anyone actually used the OEM Kayak mounts? I have 2 small (9') Kayaks that I would like to transport back and forth to the shore (It's a Jersey thing, the beach for the rest of yuze guys) and there are some local small rivers & creeks that apparently are nearby so I won't be spending hours on the interstate with them, and the trip to the shore is on smaller roads so you can't usually go over 60mph, 50 is usually the speed limit. What is the issue with them, not strong enough?

I have a '03 SE Wagon with the roof rack and would like to carry two kayaks on the roof. I see that Subaru has a kit for two kayaks for around $100. Anyone use it? Any recommendation for another manufacturer that would be better, using the OEM roof rack and bars?

Regardless of mileage, if the timing belt has oil on it it should be changed. That price sound fair to me for the amount of labor involved. Besides, you are driving cross country on Thursday, how much choice do you really have?

Roll the window down, the triangle part where the mirror attaches to the door, squeeze the rubber gasket together on the vertical part where the windown travels through. This will solve the problem. And in the future, when you close the door, don't use the top of the window, it makes the window flex and open up that gap again, grab it a little lower or don't use the window at all to close the door.

Thanks for the replies. In '03, the GT & SE's have the same size rear brakes, but the GT has the larger front rotors. The SE's has the same wheel as the GT so I don't believe that clearance or brake bias will be an issue. As for use, yes it's just a daily driver but I feel like it should stop better. I am just turning 41,000 miles and I'm starting to get some pulsating under braking and the right front disc is starting to groove up a bit compared to the left. I don't do much long distance driving, it's mostly suburban "city" so I figure even under the best of circumstances I can't expect more than 45-50,000 miles on the fronts.