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eggroller

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Posts posted by eggroller

    How to 'read' my pressure plate and flywheel?

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Progress report

    The car made it up to Whistler and back without much drama. Clutch held up good with 4 people, 3 skis, 1 snowboard, luggage and gear. The oil went down a tad bit but not to the extent as before the reseal. It must be leaking internally (maybe the valve stems) because I don't see an leakage anywhere (externally).

     

    Didn't have time to Seafoam the intake. I did dump some in the gas tank, though.

    How to 'read' my pressure plate and flywheel?

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Looks like a mix of oil, water, and excess slippage.

    Did you have any of the plugs or covers off the bellhousing? If you didn't replace them, I would expect more of the same before too long.

     

    The top inspection plug went AWOL a while ago. However, there has not been much that fell in there since the area around it was pretty clean. I have had major oil leak from the front crankshaft seal for about as long as I have owned it (1+ year). The oil leaking off the front of the engine definately got blown back into the flywheel area. Hence the oil. I will replace the top plug as well as a new one to cover the hole I used for the punch in the flywheel trick.

     

    Water could have intruded into the area from all of the snow I drove over...LOL!

     

    Slippage. Definately. The Light Truck tires I have give me great traction. I was fighting those while drifting. I would go on and off the throttle to keep the sideways action going. So, the weak point IMHO is the clutch. It shows... Next time I go drifting I will make sure to have tires with less traction.

     

    Great info guys! Thanks!

    How to 'read' my pressure plate and flywheel?

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Rob, Thanks for the reply!

     

    I got the flywheel from Schucks. They had it for a compelling price of $35. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of work on the flywheel. Everything bolted up correctly.

     

    I agree about the price of the alternator! I was getting sick of having issues with low voltage while sitting in traffic during the snow storms recently. I had to turn off my radio, blower fans and headlights to make sure that the alternator would keep up with the rear defroster! I want to get the car solid before messing with the alternator. Just a dremel job, pulley swap and bingo.

    How to 'read' my pressure plate and flywheel?

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    I don't have much experience 'reading' a clutch. My question is: Is there oil intrusion on the clutch? Are these hot spots on the wear areas? Any other comments?

    Picture of the pressure plate

    Picture of the flywheel

     

    Background

    A couple of weeks ago I spent about 6 hours total in 2 days drifting in the snow with my good tires on (14" Pugs with 195/75-14 Wildcat LT) I have had a major oil leak for a long time after I replaced the oil pump, timing belt, water pump because I didn't replace the front crankshaft seal (yeah I know... dumb dumb dumb).:banghead:

     

    So, what did I do? I pulled the engine, new clutch, remanufactured PP and finished it off right with a re-seal of the motor. Started it up last night. Looking good so far.

     

    Done:

    • Engine Re-seal
      • OEM Oil Pan Gasket
      • OEM Head Gaskets
      • OEM Camshaft carrier seals (o-ring & seal)
      • OEM Front main crankshaft seal
      • OEM Rear main crankshaft seal
      • Clean & seal Camshaft carrier towers (took a long time because I really cleaned this up)
      • OEM Thermostat w/gasket
      • OEM Radiator cap
      • OEM Intake manifold gaskets
      • Replace Timing belts (re-time the engine)
      • Exhaust manifold gaskets
      • OEM Oil pump 'Mickey Mouse' and o-ring seals

      [*]Replace motor mounts

      [*]Replace transmission mount

      [*]Replace Clutch cable

      [*]Replace oxygen sensor

      [*]Replace Clutch & pressure plate and flywheel

      [*]Replace radiator (2 row CSK from radiator barn)

    To do:

    * pictures of the cylinders and head

    Piston 1 & 3

    Piston 2 & 4

    Head for 1 & 3

    Head for 2 & 4

     

    Notice the original honing marks? :D

     

    Feel free to comment and critique! Thanks for a great website/resource!

    compression results- whaddya think?

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    I just re-sealed my engine. While I had it apart I noticed that my 207,000+ mile engine had a TON of carbon on the pistons. To the point that I am sure that it is messing with the compression. Notice the different colored spark plugs?

     

    Picture of the cylinder head for 1 & 3

     

    Picture of the cylinder head for 2 & 4

     

    Picture of the cylinder pistons 1 & 3

     

    Picture of the cylinder pistons 2 & 4

     

     

    My solution? Seafoam the engine. The car is still currently apart. But, I doubt that I will be taking the car apart to see if it worked. Many here trust this stuff. Seafoam just might help even out the numbers. Specifically, lower the highest numbers.

    New to subi's. Need ideas for power upgrades on a 88 GL-10.

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Power upgrades:

    http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/ea-performance-page/subaru-ea-performance.html

     

    I have done most of the basic maintenance items and it definately helps. (NGK spark plugs, timing belts, reseal motor, water pump, oil pump and now a clutch).

     

    I have added:

    Oil catch can

    40,000v coil

    14" Pugs with 195/75-14 LT tires

     

    Soon it will have a turbo muffler on it.

    HID lights on the GL wagon

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    I ordered 8 (2 back up for me, and 2 backup for my buddie that I gave my white wagon to) so it was over $50. He say's they're out of stock and that it would be 2-3 weeks before they shipped. Its COD so I don't really care.
    Thanks for the info. I am going put this on the shelf for now as I have to still upgrade my alternator and then put in the other aux lights (100w fog and 100w driving lights = 400w). Then I will investigate this further.

     

    FYI: There are other sources for 100w/80w 9004 HB1. Hella Optilux XB are available in 100w/80w bulbs. However, the filaments are not relocated/turned like these Flosser bulbs. Google "Optilux 9004 100w" and you will find some sources. Much more expensive than these Flosser bulbs but available.

    Loyale Spring Upgrade

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Your link are to coilovers. Coilovers is just that the spring coil is over the spring (i.e. shock through the spring). It also usually allows height adjustments by the means of a threaded collar. Make sure that you get the coilovers for the years of Honda Accord you mentioned earlier.

     

    The kit I have is similar to the link. The sleeves allow height adjustment as long as the springs are shorter which they are. However, the springs that came with my kit are 450 lbs/in and 350 lbs/in. Way to high of a spring rate in my opinion for the Subaru. If you get those sleeves. Adjust them only when the car is in the air or risk damaging the sleeves.

     

    Subaru_Styles lowered his GL/Loyale (same car different names). You might want to contact him. I believe he used a kit similar to what you linked to earlier.

    Loyale Spring Upgrade

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    What do you mean by cut off wheel? And with the accord springs, i noticed that the back end was a little too high for my liking. I just want to level the car out so it doesnt look like im draggin my rear
    Cut the length of the Honda Accord springs until the car is at the level you want. Since they are taller and of higher spring rate (they won't settle as much when the car is put on the ground).

    Loyale Spring Upgrade

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    ive worked on a few cars in my day, but im not too familiar with the suspension systems on cars.

     

    Would I just take springs from donor car and swap with my stock ones?

    Yes, the Honda Accord is your best bet if you can get them cheap (there is a limited market here, too). However, they have a very high spring rate and they are a bit taller. So a cut off wheel is your friend.

    Loyale Spring Upgrade

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    are there any springs that we know will work from another car i could get from a junkyard? a friend of mine has the hookup and can get me parts cheap:headbang:
    Look for 2.5" inside diameter springs (very common for coilovers). The original free length is 13.8". Anything shorter can be made up by getting the cheap coilover sleeves from eBay. I have a set of the sleeves and will be putting 12" 225 lbs Eibach springs on the back of my car to control the height and increase the spring rate slightly.

    Loyale Spring Upgrade

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    I've read about people using 86-89 honda accord front springs for their cars rear springs. I would like to raise my loyale's rear so that it is level, maybe just slightly higher than the front. The accord springs raise the rear too much for me. Does anyone know of any other springs that could be used to do this?
    Please see my post #23 in the following thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=382095

    HID lights on the GL wagon

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    thank you for your inquiry for Flosser Light bulbs thru the Flosser Web Site.

     

    Please note that we represent Flosser in the US. Flosser products are being shipped from a warehouse near Chicago

     

    9104 can be offered at $ 7.40.

     

    Orders over $ 750.00 would ship freight prepaid.

     

    We thank you for your interest and are looking forward to your further news

     

     

    best regards

     

    Thomas Walter

     

    Thomas Walter & Associates

    Phone: 954-714-8798 Fax 703-814-4976 E Mail: ThomasW891@aol.com

    Kind of fishy to me. The phone number is a Florida number (plug phone number into Google). The fax is a Virginia number. The email address is a private email address. The product is in Chicago.

     

    I made an inquiry for 5 sets (10 bulbs). If it comes through then I will sell them off for the cost + USPS mail (i.e. only the costs of the goods and shipping...no profit).

     

    With this wattage. I would recommend upgrading the wiring to deal with 200watts of high beam and 160watts of low beam. Just to be safe.

    delete!

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    i need a braker bar so i can remove my main pully so i can take off my oil pump, anyone have one that i could use for a few minutes? i tried a rachet and a peice of pipe but it just kind of bent and broke the pipe. anybody got any other tricks? i havce a tourque wrench but i have always been told not to use it as a breaker bar but its the only thing that is long enough (i'm trying to use my starter to brake the bolt loose, some of you know what i'm talking about).
    I used a pipe from Home Depot to break mine loose. I also had a buddy hold the brake pedal down as well leave the car in gear. Those combined together make short work of the bolt. I tightened it back the same way.

     

    The pipe is a heavy pipe about 2.5 feet long. I have used it to tighten the axle castle nut with my 18" Craftsman breaker bar. So, it gives you an idea of how heavy it is. Good luck!

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