eggroller

I never use a torque wrench to break free a tight nut/bolt for the fear of damaging the tool. Cheap breaker bars like those found at Harbor Freight seem to take a LOT of abuse.

Ah....Those are made by Mattracks. Just the ATV portion of their company: http://www.litefootatv.com The tracks must be this product: LiteFoot XT-UR “Utility-Rated” Enhanced suspension designed for heavier weight Utility ATVs Heavy Duty Internal suspension 11” wide track 1” XT tread lug 3500 G.V.W.R. Only about $5500 from this website: http://www.sidebysidesports.com/liuatvtrsy.html

I love that thing.... The tracks on the Subaru are much smaller than the Mattracks versions. The smallest track setup they have is for a vehicle with 10,500 GVW. It probably much too heavy for the EA81 shown in the video. Screen captures!

Yikes! Thanks for the reminder...I will check my nuts!

Progress report The car made it up to Whistler and back without much drama. Clutch held up good with 4 people, 3 skis, 1 snowboard, luggage and gear. The oil went down a tad bit but not to the extent as before the reseal. It must be leaking internally (maybe the valve stems) because I don't see an leakage anywhere (externally). Didn't have time to Seafoam the intake. I did dump some in the gas tank, though.

The top inspection plug went AWOL a while ago. However, there has not been much that fell in there since the area around it was pretty clean. I have had major oil leak from the front crankshaft seal for about as long as I have owned it (1+ year). The oil leaking off the front of the engine definately got blown back into the flywheel area. Hence the oil. I will replace the top plug as well as a new one to cover the hole I used for the punch in the flywheel trick. Water could have intruded into the area from all of the snow I drove over...LOL! Slippage. Definately. The Light Truck tires I have give me great traction. I was fighting those while drifting. I would go on and off the throttle to keep the sideways action going. So, the weak point IMHO is the clutch. It shows... Next time I go drifting I will make sure to have tires with less traction. Great info guys! Thanks!

Rob, Thanks for the reply! I got the flywheel from Schucks. They had it for a compelling price of $35. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of work on the flywheel. Everything bolted up correctly. I agree about the price of the alternator! I was getting sick of having issues with low voltage while sitting in traffic during the snow storms recently. I had to turn off my radio, blower fans and headlights to make sure that the alternator would keep up with the rear defroster! I want to get the car solid before messing with the alternator. Just a dremel job, pulley swap and bingo.

I don't have much experience 'reading' a clutch. My question is: Is there oil intrusion on the clutch? Are these hot spots on the wear areas? Any other comments? Picture of the pressure plate Picture of the flywheel Background A couple of weeks ago I spent about 6 hours total in 2 days drifting in the snow with my good tires on (14" Pugs with 195/75-14 Wildcat LT) I have had a major oil leak for a long time after I replaced the oil pump, timing belt, water pump because I didn't replace the front crankshaft seal (yeah I know... dumb dumb dumb). So, what did I do? I pulled the engine, new clutch, remanufactured PP and finished it off right with a re-seal of the motor. Started it up last night. Looking good so far. Done: Engine Re-sealOEM Oil Pan Gasket OEM Head Gaskets OEM Camshaft carrier seals (o-ring & seal) OEM Front main crankshaft seal OEM Rear main crankshaft seal Clean & seal Camshaft carrier towers (took a long time because I really cleaned this up) OEM Thermostat w/gasket OEM Radiator cap OEM Intake manifold gaskets Replace Timing belts (re-time the engine) Exhaust manifold gaskets OEM Oil pump 'Mickey Mouse' and o-ring seals [*]Replace motor mounts [*]Replace transmission mount [*]Replace Clutch cable [*]Replace oxygen sensor [*]Replace Clutch & pressure plate and flywheel [*]Replace radiator (2 row CSK from radiator barn) To do: Seafoam the intake to remove the carbon deposits* Replace original fan with Proform 12" electric fan (~1200 cfm @ 7 amps) Replace alternator with 100amp GM alternator Replace front brake calipers (rebuilt) & bleed brakes Install fog lights (100w H3) Install driving lights (100w H3) * pictures of the cylinders and head Piston 1 & 3 Piston 2 & 4 Head for 1 & 3 Head for 2 & 4 Notice the original honing marks? Feel free to comment and critique! Thanks for a great website/resource!

I just re-sealed my engine. While I had it apart I noticed that my 207,000+ mile engine had a TON of carbon on the pistons. To the point that I am sure that it is messing with the compression. Notice the different colored spark plugs? Picture of the cylinder head for 1 & 3 Picture of the cylinder head for 2 & 4 Picture of the cylinder pistons 1 & 3 Picture of the cylinder pistons 2 & 4 My solution? Seafoam the engine. The car is still currently apart. But, I doubt that I will be taking the car apart to see if it worked. Many here trust this stuff. Seafoam just might help even out the numbers. Specifically, lower the highest numbers.

Power upgrades: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/ea-performance-page/subaru-ea-performance.html I have done most of the basic maintenance items and it definately helps. (NGK spark plugs, timing belts, reseal motor, water pump, oil pump and now a clutch). I have added: Oil catch can 40,000v coil 14" Pugs with 195/75-14 LT tires Soon it will have a turbo muffler on it.

Thanks for the info. I am going put this on the shelf for now as I have to still upgrade my alternator and then put in the other aux lights (100w fog and 100w driving lights = 400w). Then I will investigate this further. FYI: There are other sources for 100w/80w 9004 HB1. Hella Optilux XB are available in 100w/80w bulbs. However, the filaments are not relocated/turned like these Flosser bulbs. Google "Optilux 9004 100w" and you will find some sources. Much more expensive than these Flosser bulbs but available.

Your link are to coilovers. Coilovers is just that the spring coil is over the spring (i.e. shock through the spring). It also usually allows height adjustments by the means of a threaded collar. Make sure that you get the coilovers for the years of Honda Accord you mentioned earlier. The kit I have is similar to the link. The sleeves allow height adjustment as long as the springs are shorter which they are. However, the springs that came with my kit are 450 lbs/in and 350 lbs/in. Way to high of a spring rate in my opinion for the Subaru. If you get those sleeves. Adjust them only when the car is in the air or risk damaging the sleeves. Subaru_Styles lowered his GL/Loyale (same car different names). You might want to contact him. I believe he used a kit similar to what you linked to earlier.

A Dremel works quite well. Wear eye protection. Swapping out the rear springs can take more than hour the 1st time. I can confidently do the rear of my car within an hour now since I have taken them apart a few times. It is a simple job but tedious the 1st time. Good luck

Cut the length of the Honda Accord springs until the car is at the level you want. Since they are taller and of higher spring rate (they won't settle as much when the car is put on the ground).

Yes, the Honda Accord is your best bet if you can get them cheap (there is a limited market here, too). However, they have a very high spring rate and they are a bit taller. So a cut off wheel is your friend.

Look for 2.5" inside diameter springs (very common for coilovers). The original free length is 13.8". Anything shorter can be made up by getting the cheap coilover sleeves from eBay. I have a set of the sleeves and will be putting 12" 225 lbs Eibach springs on the back of my car to control the height and increase the spring rate slightly.

Please see my post #23 in the following thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=382095

No problem. I will update this thread if I have some surplus. I planning to keep an extra set around for myself.

looking into it....I have built a few wiring harnesses before with 40amp relays for 400watts of lighting. All soldered together and shrink wrapped (Fluxed, tinned and nice clean hot solders).

Kind of fishy to me. The phone number is a Florida number (plug phone number into Google). The fax is a Virginia number. The email address is a private email address. The product is in Chicago. I made an inquiry for 5 sets (10 bulbs). If it comes through then I will sell them off for the cost + USPS mail (i.e. only the costs of the goods and shipping...no profit). With this wattage. I would recommend upgrading the wiring to deal with 200watts of high beam and 160watts of low beam. Just to be safe.

Bummer I am helping a buddy with his car tonight. I could have rolled out there and helped you out.

I used a pipe from Home Depot to break mine loose. I also had a buddy hold the brake pedal down as well leave the car in gear. Those combined together make short work of the bolt. I tightened it back the same way. The pipe is a heavy pipe about 2.5 feet long. I have used it to tighten the axle castle nut with my 18" Craftsman breaker bar. So, it gives you an idea of how heavy it is. Good luck!

Listing found at Sylvania Automotive Lighting: 1983 Brat Instrument Lighting (as well as my 1988 GL (EA82)) calls for the: Sylvania 74 and Sylvania 158

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Mirrored.... (I combined the 2 parts into 1 file for each engine. Please right-click the files) SubaruEA82-ServiceManual-Complete.zip SubaruEJ22-RepairManual-Complete.zip SubaruEJ22-PartsManual.zip SubaruEJ22-ServiceBulletins.zip - Didn't download properly