eggroller

non-Turbo axle = 23 splines on the inboard CV. Turbo axle = 25 splines

I have Thule. All of it was used stuff. Low price with great quality.

If the stockers are 2.5" then the Eibach stuff would work. The taller springs could be good for those who want to raise the car slightly with the same spring rate. My plans are to do just that. Very likely I will get a coilover sleeve for the front and raise it up slightly. With KYB GR2 dampers. You have PM about VWs.

Thanks for measuring!! Hmmm...That is a strange ID size. However, the length could be used for the 200 ft/lbs. spring rate.

Could you please measure the length and the inside diameter of the Accord spring? The wagon springs have a spring rate of 197 ft/lbs. The missing information can help find alternatives. There could be a solution by purchasing the coilover springs produced by Eibach Racing. They are $60 each for almost whatever spring rate and length. The nearest spring rate is 200 ft/lbs. Nominal difference. I am assuming they are 2.5" inside diameter (ID). Here are the lengths available: Eibach Springs from Ground Control 8" long with 200 ft/lbs. rate 10" long with 200 ft/lbs. rate 12" long with 200 ft/lbs. rate 14" long with 200 ft/lbs. rate 2.5" ID H&R springs http://www.hrsprings.com/site/motorsport/index.html There other sources but I can't seem to find them at this time.

Alright, got some rebuilt axles from Schucks (of all places). They are correct as I can see. They are rebuilt by Cardone. Much better quality than the Crown pieces of junk (which I still need to return). The boots are of good quality and don't look used. New parts everywhere and nice clamps on the boots which were on straight. I would buy again and need to do so since they only had one in stock at the location I was at. The axles I purchased were for an '88 GL Wagon 4WD Auto. Part #607008. It has the 23 splines like I was told above. Comes with a limited lifetime warranty (the Crown crud does not have any warranty at all). I sure hope that this information helps others. The wrong part number was #607009 at Schucks. This part number had the 25 spline inboard CV (turbo spec).

Perfect! Great information. Now I know to keep one of my timing belt tensioner brackets and which model of GM I should grab the parts from.

Thank you for information! I will have to count the number of splines to verify. I am pretty sure that is the probelm already. Sheared the pin easily and quickly. Furthermore, looks like rebuilt axles by Crown are not very good. They have shoddy workmanship. Missing parts, bits of of the shear pin still in the DOJ and they can't even put the clamps on the CV straight. So, those that receive them...double check. Thank you for the offer for the pins. I ran around on Sat. and bought 4 of them from Carter VW in Shoreline. They were the only place around that had them. So, I left them with one on-hand.

Further inspections shows that I have the wrong axles. The splines did not engage the output shafts of the transmission. I am not listening to myself because I said "Hmmmm, that is strange" when I put the parts on the car. Doh! I went about measuring the size of the opening for the splines on the axles. The original one measures 26.4mm (~1"). I ran around and measured all of the manual transmission axles I could find. All of the rebuilt items are 28.4mm (~1 1/8"). Could it be that I have a non-standard transmission output flanges? Does the automatic have different size splines? Time for another run around to check them. Hopefully I can return the wrong parts. Since I installed one of them I might own that axle. Which sucks. Where do you guys buy rebuilt axles from in the Seattle area (not mail order)? I saw that Schucks carries the Cardone brand with a nice Liftime Limited Warranty.

Need to diversify my skillz!

I used these items as guides for my wagon search. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/general/specyears.html http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/mechanical/engine-specs.html To answer the last question. The push-button 4wd is a single range transmission. The car is FWD until you push the button. If the car is great condition, I personally would get it and grab a 5 speed dual-range transmission from a junkyard and convert it if you are going for the lift and big wheels/tires.

Learning a lot about these beasts. If it is a turbo axle....shoot! I will have to get the measurement calipers in there and verify the inside diameter. Then I have to take it back out and exchange. Bummer. Nice to know the output shafts flop about. Whew... Great INFO!!! Thank you!

Thank you all for the input. My quick glance under the hood yesterday revealed nothing but I was late to work so I grabbed the other car. I took some time to look under the hood last night and of course you guys are right (this board is a gold mine). The pin holding the DOJ sheared off. It appears as any load will be on the splines. Now why would that pin shear off? Instead of that pin could I use a long bolt? Or do you all think that Subaru designed the weak point for a reason?

Yes, the wrist/spring pin is inserted to hold the DOJ/inboard CV to the output of the transmission. Castle nut is torqued to 137 ft/lbs. per the manual with a cotter pin

I believe the front differential took a crap. I got 20ft from the parking spot this morning and lost all power to the front wheel as soon as I started turning slightly. It felt like someone pulled the car out of gear. It was sudden and there were some gears clashing when trying to apply power. Put it in 4WD and parked it. The transmission has been making some strange clunking noises like a CV is toast. I was up in the mountains doing lots of drifting and donuts for about 2 hours last Friday. Tore a CV boot on the driver's side and the DOJ on the same side was quite loose. Suspected the CV. No big deal. Last night I was going to swap both axles with some rebuilt ones. Got the passenger side done. Was going to do the driver's side but ran out of time. The rebuilt drive axle is tight at the CV joints but the stub shafts coming out of the transmission was flopping around. Oh, oh....So, I grabbed the passenger side DOJ and wiggled, a lot. Not very confidence inspiring. Maybe it was supposed to be that way? Driver's side was loose, too. Just not as bad. All gear fluid was changed 200 miles ago with Valvoline Synpower 75w/90w synthetic. Do you guys think I killed the differential? Suggestions? Rebuilt transmission? ($$$$) Junkyard? Anyone got a good used D/R 5 spd they want to sell in the Seattle area?

Ditto on my '88 GL w/SPFI. Fresh tune up 150 miles ago. Timing set at 20* BTC.

What brand of scales are you using?

I didn't find any posts about this subject. I just got a '88 GL Wagon D/R. My initial clean up included looking for areas of accumulated...crud. I looked at the hinges on the front doors and saw lots of stuff accumulated in the fender. To my surprise there is a ton of stuff accumulated in there. Major rust potential. Now the car is lighter and I can get it more dirty from rallying it... Some pictures:

Whoops! I get those backwards sometimes! Nice setup for the the turbo!

well put! Exactly correct in my opinion. I have camber plates on my GTI. It made the front so much tighter throught the turns. Looks like a nice pillow ball spherical bearing on top! Are there spherical bearings on the spring top hat, too? Wow... you added a lot more negative caster than negative camber with the adjustments you have now. Sidebar: Do you have a radiator for that air/water intercooler?

I cleaned mine with CRC Electromotive (electronics friendly cleaner that evaporates without leaving residue). The MAF heats the wires to a specific temperature. The amount of air passing by will require additional voltage to maintain the temperature. This info is passed to the computer where it looks up the voltage and 'sees' the amount of fuel to provide. The heated wire MAF will compensate for humidity. The water vapor in the air cools the wire more thus more voltage to keep warm. Neato stuff. EDIT: Corrected some grammer.

Sweet! I will do some searching for a PDF.

Anyone know a better price than $98 used from Amazon? It appears to be out of print.